Tuesday, January 21, 2025

20+ Artsy & Cool Reasons To Visit Jacksonville, Florida

By Jacquelin Carnegie - (Jacksonville, FL)
Miami gets all the glory but Jacksonville, on the shores of the St. Johns River in North Florida, is well worth discovering. What makes it exciting is all the entrepreneurial activity from new restaurants & breweries to artists-run galleries and unique, cultural events. And, of course, there's the beach! So, come on down to meet the super-friendly locals and explore "Jax."
GET TO KNOW JAX
Jacksonville's "Top to Bottom" Walking Tour
Tel: 904-827-1845; www.AdLibTours.com (Tues 10am)
Start your visit with a walking tour that turns a history lesson into a fun trek of discovery. Local historian Gary Sass and his friendly guides give a great introduction to Jacksonville's history and the arts & culture scene. If you don't feel like walking, take a lovely Art Bike Tour.
DISCOVER JAX'S HISTORIC NEIGHBORHOODS

While the downtown architecture leaves something to be desired, it's surrounded by charming neighborhoods such as Springfield, Riverside, and San Marco with lovely, historic homes. Check them out on house tours:
Springfield
 

Springfield Historic Home Tour
www.sparcouncil.org (May & Dec)
The Springfield neighborhood has beautifully-restored, turn-of-the-century homes: grand Victorians, charming bungalows, & historic family mansions. Plus, such friendly neighbors, you won't want to leave!
Riverside-Avondale Tour of Homes
www.riversideavondale.org (April) This picturesque neighborhood with oak-lined streets has over 5,000 historic buildings. Along with million-dollar, waterfront homes, it also has hip hangouts such as Five Points (shopping & nightlife) and Kings Street (gastropubs & breweries). If you can't make the homes' tour, explore on your own. Enjoy First Friday events and, the first weekend of every month, ride around on the Riverside Trolley.

EXPLORE JAX'S ARTSY SIDE
Art Walk jacksonvilleartwalk.com (Monthly, 1st Wed, 5-9pm)
On the first Wednesday evening of each month, Downtown Jax is a whirl of artsy activities. The festivities include live music, arts & crafts vendors, street performers, food trucks, beer tents, and lots of family activities. Also, Downtown Jax's cultural venues stay open late and nearby restaurants and bars offer specials.

Museums It's worth a trip to Jax just for these museums:
Museum of Contemporary Art
333 North Laura St; www.mocajacksonville.org
In the heart of Downtown Jax, MOCA's wonderful collection and exhibits rival major, world-class institutions. In addition to the stunning, contemporary artwork, MOCA has top-notch events such as talks with renowned artists and delightful concerts. 

Cummer Museum of Art & Gardens
829 Riverside Ave; www.cummermuseum.org
This lovely museum in Riverside not only has an impressive art collection, spanning the ages from 2100 B.C. through the 21st century, it has an amazing garden overlooking the river and a nice café.
Museum of Science & History (www.themosh.org) - 
For both kids & adults. The exhibits are made to inspire interest in the sciences & regional history.
Galleries To start a gallery scene, local artists have taken matters into their own hands:
X. Nihilo

Southlight Gallery 
1 Independence Dr., #113;
southlightgallery.com
This collaborative gallery features exceptional, local artists with international acclaim. Check out work by: Tony Wood, Enzo Torcoletti, Pablo Rivera & Grant Ward. Monthly openings coincide with ArtWalk. 
The Art Center & CoRK Arts District (corkartsdistrict.com) - Artists' studios in funky, repurposed warehouses. Jax also has a very active Cultural Council that supports all kinds of artsy special events & spotlights gifted young artists such as Dimelza Broche, Franklin Ratliff Thony Aiuppy

ENJOY JAX'S FABULOUS FESTIVALS
Jacksonville Jazz Festival http://on.fb.me/1Mjqw0S (May)
(artist: Russ Wilson)
The festival kicks off with the Jacksonville Jazz Piano Competition, then free concerts by world-renown musicians. VIP packages for preferred seating and other perks are also available.
Jax PorchFest 
jacksonvilleporchfest.org (Nov)
This music fest is such a delightful concept: different singers and bands perform on the porches of various homes in the historic, Springfield neighborhood. Stroll along, enjoy the music, admire the historic houses, and grab a tasty snack from food trucks. PorchFest is the brainchild of Christina Parrish--attorney, serial-house-restorer (she's done 30), and former, unofficial "mayor" of Springfield.
Riverside Arts Market riversideartsmarket.com (Sat, 10am-3pm) Every Saturday is a festival at RAM in Riverside, under the Fuller Warren Bridge. Check out local crafts--paintings, jewelry, and handmade goods--plus a farmer’s market, and music!
RAM
 


RELISH JAX'S RESTAURANT SCENE
There's an incredible restaurant scene in Jax. In fact, each neighborhood has its' hip, hot spots:
Downtown: The Elbow (Bay St-Adams St/Main St-Liberty St) - Considered Downtown's "entertainment district," the area is known for its eateries 
& cool cocktail lounges/whiskey bars: Dos Gatos (123 E. Forsyth St; www.dosgatosjax.com) & The Volstead (115 W Adams St; thevolsteadjax.com) 
Street Art, Dos Gatos
Riverside: Boldbean (869 Stockton St; www.boldbeancoffee.com) - Great coffee & pastries. King St gastropubs: Kickbacks and Goozlepipe & Guttyworks.
San Marco: The dining district is a date-night destination and a great way to explore the lovely San Marco neighborhood. Popular spots: 
Taverna (1986 San Marco Blvd; taverna.restaurant) for Italian & Maple St Biscuit Co. (2004 San Marco Blvd; maplestreetbiscuits.com) for southern comfort food.
Springfield
Uptown Kitchen & Bar (1303 N. Main St
) - Inventive American for breakfast, lunch & dinner. 

LET JAX ENTERTAIN YOU
Music: Jacksonville has a long history with great music. Elvis Presley gave his first indoor concerts here in 1956, and the bands Lynyrd Skynyrd & The Allman Brothers were born here. 

Jacksonville Center for the Performing Arts (300 Water St; http://bit.ly/1Kf1hK7) - Three stages for concerts, musicals, dance recitals, comedy shows, & the marvelous Jacksonville Symphony Orchestra.
Florida Theatre (128 East Forsyth St; floridatheatre.com) - Great entertainment since 1927 (Elvis performed here in 1956); contemporary pop, jazz, rock, country & blues, plus opera and ballet. 
Ritz Theatre & Museum (829 No Davis St; www.ritzjacksonville.com) - Great jazz venue with a fascinating African-American history museum.
Theater: Theatre Jacksonville (2032 San Marco Blvd; www.theatrejax.com) - The oldest community theatre in the country, open since 1938.
Movies: Before "Hollywood," Jacksonville was the Winter Film Capital of the World. Explore this fascinating history, then catch a movie at Sun-Rays Cinema (1028 Park St; www.sunraycinema.com) in the Five Points section of Riverside. Sadly, the historic San Marco Theatre just closed after 84 years.

HEAD TO THE BEACHES
Just a half hour from Downtown, Jax's three main beaches--Jacksonville Beach, Neptune & Atlantic--share a splendid strip of sand. There are seaside dining options, cute shops, and some artsy activities: an Arts Market and even a museum!
Morning Surf, Lois Newman


Where To Stay:
Downtown: Marriott (245 Water St) - A wonderful spot right near everything in Downtown Jax; very friendly, helpful staff, plus nice rooms & a pool. The same goes for the Hyatt Regency Jacksonville Riverfront (225 E. Coastline Dr).
The Beaches 
Marriott's Courtyard Jacksonville Beach Oceanfront (1627 N. 1st St; https://tinyurl.com/y4qg2c53) - Perfect spot midway between all the beaches. Wonderful, friendly, super-helpful staff & outdoor heated pool right on the ocean.
Other options: The Hilton's Hampton Inn; One Ocean Resort & Spa; the new Margaritaville; Casa Marina - Famous for its Sunday brunch, etc. 

Getting There: JetBlue offers great, frequent, friendly on-time service. 
Dawn Patrol, J. Seward Johnson
Getting Around: Everyone drives, but there's a very reliable public transit bus system, JTA. (Get a STAR card.) JTA Hotline: 904-630-3100, ext. 4 (Mon-Fri, 5:30am-8:30pm; Sat, 8am-5pm) - Info on bus lines, bus stops & schedules or get the MyJTA App. Skyway monorail runs Mon-Fri, 6am-9pm; Free. In San Marco & at the Beaches, free rides are offered (certain times, Thurs-Sun) by Beach Buggies, download the App. There's the Riverside Trolley (1st weekend of month). And, just for fun, take a river taxi across the St. Johns. 

Monday, January 6, 2025

15+ Artsy & Cool Reasons To Visit The Palm Beaches, Florida

By Jacquelin Carnegie
(photo: DiscoverThePalmBeaches)
     

In the late 1880s, railroad magnate Henry M. Flagler turned Florida’s east coast into a chain of holiday resort towns, laying tracks and building hotels along the way. He built his own splendid residence, Whitehall, now The Flagler Museum, on the lush island of Palm Beach.
Today, Palm Beach County--also referred to as The Palm Beaches--consists of some 38 towns and is considered the "Cultural Capital" of Florida with more than 200 cultural venues. Here's a mini-guide to Palm Beach, West Palm Beach, and Delray Beach--three areas especially worth exploring:

PALM BEACH
The town of Palm Beach--just 3 blocks wide and 13 miles long--has more millionaires and billionaires than just about anywhere on earth. So, there's lots of classy fun to be had and even some budget options:
Admire Architectural Gems
Island Living Tours

(Tel: 561/309-5790; www.islandlivingpb.com)
In the ritzy resort town of Palm Beach, see spectacular architecture and landscaping in the Estate Section, where lavish mansions were built in the 1920s. The renowned architects Addison Mizner, Marion Sims Wyeth, John Volk and Maurice Fatio--known as the "Fab Four"--designed many of the landmarked estates on this tour.
Enjoy Classy Culture
The Flagler Museum
1 Whitehall Way, Palm Beach; Tel: 561/655-2833; flaglermuseum.us
Get a glimpse into the glorious Gilded Age on a visit to Whitehall, Henry Flagler's stunning Palm Beach estate. Take the informative guided tour that'll make you wish you lived there and attend wonderful programs, including lectures and concerts.
Society of the Four Arts
Four Arts (photo: Wally Gobetz)
2 Four Arts Plaza, Palm Beach; Tel: 561/655-7226; www.fourarts.org (Four Arts Botanical Gardens & Philip Hulitar Sculpture Garden)
This special place has two beautiful gardens--sculpture and botanical--open to the public. In addition, there's outstanding, cultural programing, including concerts, films, talks by notable speakers, and art exhibits. This is a not-to-be-missed experience!
Horse Around
National Polo Center

3667 120th Ave So, Wellington; Tel: 561/282-5334; nationalpolocenter.com From January through April, the world’s best polo players gather here. On Sundays, don your fashionable finest and enjoy brunch on the veranda, then a thrilling game of polo. (If you're adventuresome, you can even take polo-playing lessons.) 

WEST PALM BEACH
Having played second fiddle to Palm Beach for so long, West Palm Beach is finally coming into its own with an array of artsy offerings:

Polo (Artist: David McEwen,
Rolando Chang Barrero Gallery)
Visit Groovy Museums
Norton Museum of Art
1450 S. Dixie Highway, West Palm Beach; Tel: 561/832-5196; www.norton.org
The museum is known for its impressive Chinese collection, European masterpieces, American works, Contemporary art, Photography, and special exhibitions. Every Friday evening, the Art After Dark (Fri, 5-10pm) program features eclectic artsy events. The museum's new expansion was designed by renowned British architect Norman Foster.

Youth, Four Arts (photo: DiscoverThePalmBeaches)
Ann Norton Sculpture Gardens
253 Barcelona Rd, West Palm Beach; Tel: 561/832-5328; www.ansg.org

Take the time to visit this beautiful home, artist's studio, and sculpture garden on the National Register of Historic Places in West Palm Beach's historic El Cid neighborhood.
Attend Art Festivals
Palm Beach Modern + Contemporary - Major international galleries exhibit 20th- & 21st-century painting, photography, sculpture, and ceramics. Art Palm Beach - International fine art fair. Street Painting Festival - The downtown pavement become a canvas for some 600 artists.
CANVAS (artist: Sean Yoro)
Go To Galleries Galore
Northwood Village (northwoodvillage.com) - Many artists have opened galleries in this emerging, vibrant neighborhood. Lake Worth (www.lakewortharts.com) - This lovely district has numerous galleries showcasing emerging and established local and international artists.
Be Entertained
Kravis Center for the Performing Arts
701 Okeechobee Blvd, West Palm Beach; Tel: 561/832-7469; www.kravis.org - This is home to some of the best cultural offerings from ballet to Broadway musicals, opera and jazz.
Take a Dive
(photo: DiscoverThePalmBeaches)

Jim Abernethy’s Scuba Adventures - Close proximity to the Gulf Stream, coral reefs, and shipwrecks, makes the PB Marriott Singer Island the perfect base for an underwater adventure. Snorkeling, SCUBA diving and even shark dives are offered year-round for all skill levels; just ask the hotel's concierge to arrange it.

DELRAY BEACH
Delray is a laid-back beach town known for the restaurant scene on Atlantic Avenue and for fantastic festivals. But there's also a great arts scene in the Pineapple Grove district and some unexpected gems such as:
Morikami Museum & Japanese Gardens
Morikami (photo: DiscoverThepalmBeaches)
4000 Morikami Park Rd, Delray Beach; Tel: 561/495-0233; morikami.org
This magnificent place offers an authentic Japanese cultural experience--perhaps the last thing you'd expect to find in The Palm Beaches! Sixteen, beautifully-landscaped acres depict different periods of Japanese garden design, from the 8th to the 20th century. In addition, the museum presents incredible exhibitions, holds monthly tea ceremonies, and celebrates traditional, Japanese festivals.

MAKING YOUR TRIP EASIER
Cultural Council of Palm Beach County 
(Tel: 561/471-2901; palmbeachculture.com) - Get a jump on all the cool, cultural happenings during your visit. Discover Deals - Get discounts on hotels, popular activities and, if traveling with kids, on family-friendly attractions.
Dine in Style
There are terrific places to dine throughout The Palm Beaches; start with these:
Atlantic Ave, Delray Beach
(photo: DiscoverThePalmBeaches)
 
DADA (52 N Swinton Ave, Delray Beach; Tel: 561/330-3232; sub-culture.org/dada) - The perfect spot for dinner: delicious food in a lovely setting with great service.
The Cooper (4610 PGA Blvd, Suite #100, Palm Beach Gardens: Tel: 561/622-0032; www.thecooperrestaurant.com) - This joint is jumpin' with terrific, farm-to-table food & wonderful service.
Café Luna Rosa (34 S Ocean Blvd, Delray Beach: Tel: 561/274–9404; caffelunarosa.com) - Casual, seaside dining for breakfast, lunch & dinner; also, local entertainment on some nights.
Where To Stay
The Flagler Museum
(photo: DiscoverThePalmBeaches)
 
If you're looking for old-world Florida charm: Crane’s Beach House & Luxury Villas (82 Gleason St, Delray Beach, FL; Tel: 561/278-1700; cranesbeachhouse.com) - Just a few blocks from the beach, the rooms are like private, mini-bungalows--so charming you won't want to leave! Enjoy Florida fun in this lush tropical setting: Happy Hour and live music at the Tiki Bar and two pools open 24/7.
If you'd prefer modern and right on the beach: Palm Beach Marriott Singer Island Resort & Spa (3800 No. Ocean Dr, Singer Island; Tel: 561/340-1700; http://bit.ly/1PqQwe6) - This beautiful, ultra-modern, all-suite, beachfront resort is AAA Four Diamond-rated. Filled with cool artwork, it's got a wonderful staff, great dining choices, and lots of water sports options.
Getting There
Fly into West Palm Beach (PBI) or Ft. Lauderdale (FLL) on Delta or Jet Blue.

Sunday, December 15, 2024

Discover France’s La Vendée Region, Part 3: Noirmoutier – Island Life: Sun, Sand, Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes!

By Jacquelin Carnegie
Noirmoutier (photo: @lenamrzl)
La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western coast. It’s known for its’ lovely, beach towns such as Les Sables-d'Olonne and its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. Then, there’s Noirmoutier—an island that’s about as idyllic as beach life could get: totally peaceful and extremely picturesque. The French and other Europeans like to vacation here, and you will too. There’s great food, beautiful beaches, and some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France! 
11 GREAT REASONS TO VISIT NOIRMOUTIER ISLAND
Apart from by boat, for centuries, the only way to reach Noirmoutier Island was via the Passage du Gois, a tidal causeway only accessible at low tide. Finally, in 1971, a bridge was built making this vacation paradise more accessible. The best times to visit: April, May & June (to avoid the summer crowds) and September (if the weather is good).
1) Get Ready To Unwind: Complete Serenity
Maybe it’s the light or the microclimate (mild winters and temperate summers), but the moment you arrive, you relax. You’ll be charmed by the pretty surroundings, the lovely villages, the sunny weather, the crystal-blue water, the nice beaches, the simple, carefree lifestyle, the traditional white houses with blue shutters, the scent of mimosas…the food!
2) Explore The Island
It’s confusing, so just to be clear, the island is: l'Île de Noirmoutier. The main town is: Noirmoutier-en-l'île -- filled with cute, little shops, lots of great restaurants, and several historic sites.
Noirmoutier-en-ile (photo: @Trendz)
Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’île &/or Rue de Polder, Barbâtre) - First, stop at the tourism office for some itinerary suggestions & to pick up a map. Then, drive around or, since the island is relatively flat, go exploring by bike.
Visit the Villages & Neighborhoods: Barbâtre, la Guérinière, l'Épine, l'Herbaudière & Noirmoutier-en-l'île. L'Herbaudière Port: A lively fishing port with a marina, souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. Bois de la Chaise: An area of lovely villas and chalets surrounded by picturesque pines, mimosa & oak trees. See the Windmills – Since the 7th century, there have been windmills on the island. Of the 32 erected during the 19th century, 23 remain; several have been turned into unique, vacation homes.
3) Relax at The Beach
Plage des Dames (photo: J.Carnegie)

Noirmoutier is an island in the Bay of Biscay, so there are lovely beaches everywhere you turn. Some of the most popular: Plage des Dames, Plage des Sableaux, Anse Rouge & La Madeleine. Go to several and see which ones you like best!
4) Get A Refreshing Workout – Sports Galore
There are lots of water sports to enjoy: kitesurfing, paddleboarding, kayaking, water skiing, scuba diving, sailing, etc.
In addition to biking around the island, there are beautiful places to stroll and hike: along the beaches, through the salt marshes, and on lovely trails in the woods: Forêt de la Frandière in Barbâtre, Bois des Eloux in L'Epine & Bois de la Chaise in Noirmoutier. Plus: Horseback riding, tennis, fishing, etc.
5) Discover The Island’s Food Heritage: Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes
Noirmoutier’s year-round inhabitants are people who’ve lived off the land & sea for generations: mostly fisherman, potato farmers, and salt harvesters.
Salt: In the 7th century, Benedictine monks began transforming the island’s wetlands into salterns--basins where salt is cultivated. Today, there are about 100 salt harvesters (saunier) on the island, using traditional methods to harvest the “white gold” Fleur de sel.
Noirmoutier Potatoes (photo: Julien Gazeau)
Seafood: More than 100 fishing boats unload their catches here daily, including sole, sea bass, striped mullet, lobsters, etc. Locals also like to dig for clams & shrimp and harvest oysters & the delectable bouchot mussels.
Potatoes: Noirmoutier is famous for its’ potatoes--the Sirtema, the Lady Cristl, the Charlotte, but especially the Bonnotte. Planted by hand, grown in sandy soil, and fertilized with seaweed, which gives them their unique flavor.
Les Saveurs de l'ile de Noirmoutier - You can find these and other specialties such as cookies & pastries at little shops and at weekly “Farmers’ Markets” throughout the island. All local products are certified; look for the label Saveurs de l’île de Noirmoutier (Flavors of Noirmoutier Island).
6) Enjoy Some of The Most Delicious Meals You’ll Ever Eat
The chefs here benefit from the island’s bounty to create amazing dishes. Each restaurant offers its own take on Noirmoutier's cuisine. There are many to choose from; start with these: 
Le 11 (11 Quai Cassard, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 11 11; https://le11denoirmoutier.com) - Right on the waterfront, a casual, very-friendly spot with tasty meals; try their special: Fish & Chips.
Bouchot Mussels (photo; @Trendz)

Le P’tit Noirmout (10 Rue du Marché, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 79 52; https://www.le-ptit-noirmout.com) - Good food in a lively, fun atmosphere.
Le Petit Bouchot (3 Rue Saint-Louis, Noirmoutier-en-l'île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 32 56; https://www.restaurant-noirmoutier.com) - Delicious meals in a very staid, traditional setting.
La Potinière (27 Ave Georges Clemenceau, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 09 61; https://potinierenoirmoutier.com) – A very-modern fish & seafood place, right at the beach, Plage des Dames in Bois de la Chaise.
La Marine*** (5 Rue Marie Lemonnier, L'Herbaudière, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 23 09; https://www.alexandrecouillon.com) - Michelin 3-star restaurant, booked a year in advance. Chef Alexandre Couillon uses only the freshest, local ingredients: seafood right from the port across the street and herbs & vegetables from his own “kitchen garden.” His wife Céline also runs the more-casual, bistro next door La Table d'Elise. Can’t get into either, get some tasty goodies at their little pastry/grocery shop, Le Petit Couillon.
7) Go on a Guided Tour
Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’ile; Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 80 71) - The Tourism Office offers several interesting Tours (only in French), but some you could enjoy anyway such as a boating excursion. It’s worth checking out what they have to offer. In addition…
Marais Salants (photo: Simon Bourcier)
Visite des Marais Salants – Visit a salt basin to see how the Fleur de sel is harvested. (Marais de Bonne Pogne: May-Sept, tour in English.)
Visite de la Criée à L'Herbaudière Port – Tour the port and the “criée” (fish auction market) where all the fishing boats unload their daily catch. (Tour in French only.) 
8) Take Part In Unique Island Activities
La Fête de la Bonnotte (May) – On the 1st Saturday in May, Noirmoutier’s illustrious Bonnotte potato is feted with an elaborate, communal meal followed by a concert. In the morning, you can go into the fields to pick your own potatoes.
Les Foulées du Gois (June) – Athletes race across the Passage du Gois against the rising tide. Or, just consult the tide schedule and walk or bike across any time at your leisure.
9) Learn More About The Island’s Historic Heritage
Noirmoutier-en-l'île has several historic sites to visit:
Windmill house (photo: J.Carnegie)

Château de Noirmoutier (Place d'Armes) – This 12th century castle is now a museum. Climb to the top for a great panoramic view.
Hôtel Jacobsen (Rue Saint Louis) – Once the home of the influential Jacobsen family, it’s now a maritime-history museum.
Église Saint-Philbert (2 rue du Cheminet) – This 11th century church was built on the grounds of the former Benedictine Abbey, founded in 674 by the monk Saint-Philbert.
10) Be Entertained
Les Salorges (22 Quai Jean Bart, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île) - At this performance center, even if you don’t speak French, there are lots of dance & concert programs to enjoy as well as many programs for kids.
Several cafés in the various villages have live music in the evenings and, if you speak &/or understand French, go to the moviesLe Mimosa (73 Ave Joseph Pineau, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île). 
11) Be Welcomed Like Family
The people in all the shops, restaurants, and guesthouses are very welcoming—especially if you arrive off-season, in the spring or fall, as I’m recommending.
Where To Stay
: There’s everything from hotels to Maison d'hôtes (guesthouses) to camping grounds and rental homes. Here’s a lovely place to start: 
The Corner

The Corner - Maison d'hôtes (2 rue du Général Leclerc, Noirmoutier-en-l’île;
Tel: +33 (0)6 09 86 17 79; https://www.thecorner-no.fr
) - When traveling to some place you’ve never been before, it’s nice to be welcomed with open arms. The Corner, is owned by an American, Diane, and her French-chef husband, Raphael. It’s like staying with family you just never met before. Located in the center of lovely Noirmoutier-en-l’île, right by all the cute little shops, the house dates from 1814 and was the home of the former mayor. Completely renovated, today there are 5 beautifully-decorated guest rooms—perfect for romantic getaways. And, in the adjoining property, there are larger rooms great for families or groups of friends traveling together. The amount of thought and attention to detail that has gone into decorating & outfitting each guest room is truly amazing. That, plus Chef Raphael’s delicious meals makes The Corner the perfect place to start your vacation on Noirmoutier Island.
Getting Around: You can rent a car or a bike or hop on the little
Passage de Gois (photo: @alamoureux)
tourist trainNoirmout'Train
Getting There: From Paris: SNCF Train to Nantes with a connecting bus, Aléop coach #13 (2hrs & 1.5hrs). Airport: Nantes Atlantique (then an hour drive to the island). Or, consult the tide schedule and drive, bike or walk across the Passage du Gois!

Sunday, December 8, 2024

5+ Ways To Get the Most Out of Paris: Hotel Hop, Apartment Swap, Meet the French & More

By Jacquelin Carnegie - (Paris, France) 

Les Parisiens by Kanako  
(Mairie de Paris, My Little Paris & Editions du Chêne)
Paris is all about neighborhoods. Instead of spending your whole stay in the same hotel, discover Paris' many wonderful neighborhoods by moving around! You can accomplish this in several different ways: Do a mix-and-match of hotel stays, apartment rentals, and bed & breakfasts. Yes, packing and unpacking is a drag, but this is such a great way to really get to know the city, just pack light.
Paris has 20 districts (arrondissements), each with a distinct personality. Do some research beforehand, and explore the cafes, shops, and sights unique to each neighborhood. [To figure out an arrondissement, just look at the last 2 digits of the address's zip code: i.e., 75008 = 8th arrondissement.]

HOTEL HOP: Try Different Neighborhoods
Several major chains have hotels in different neighborhoods. Spend two or three nights in a variety of locations. While you're assured of a similar level of service, each hotel has its own style to match the arrondissement.

Hotel Chains


Renaissance Paris Nobel Tour Eiffel, 16th
Marriott has several Paris hotels, including the Renaissance & Courtyard brands.

Novotel has about 10 Paris hotels which can be selected by arrondissement. 
The Leading Hotels of The World has a group of luxury Paris hotels for a splurge.
Boutique Hotels:
These are lovely, smaller hotels with lots of character. There are so many to choose from, it's hard to know where to begin.
Perhaps pick an area you'd like to explore, then see what's nearby. For example:
Hôtel Observatoire Luxembourg (107 Blvd St Michel; www.observatoirehotel.com) - This little gem is right across from the famous Luxembourg Gardens in the 5th arrondissement.
Design Hotels recommends a group of Paris boutique hotels with oodles of style.
Molitor, MGallery Hotel Collection
Molitor
(13 Rue Nungesser et Coli; https://www.molitorparis.com) – If you love to swim, consider the magnificent Molitor in the 16th arrondissement. This way-cool, artsy hotel features two restored, art-deco-style pools from 1929 and a Spa by Clarins. If you’re a tennis fan, it’s just across the street from the Roland-Garros stadium where the French Open is held.
 

Chez Grace (photo: Owen Franken)
FEEL AT HOME:
Bed & Breakfasts
Usually, a Bed & Breakfast (Chambres d'hôtes) means a room--a very nice room--in someone's Paris apartment. Not only does this give you the chance to experience a slice of life in the City of Light, it also gives you the opportunity to meet real Parisians. You can find Chambres d’hôtes in every arrondissement with your criteria (i.e., no smoking, free Wi-Fi, etc.) and, since they're booked by the night, combine a few in different neighborhoods:
Airbnb (www.airbnb.com) - When renting a room you can sometimes luck out with an interesting 
host, willing to show you around the neighborhood or suggest great, local hangouts. 
Meeting the French (Tel: +33 (0)1-42-51-19-80; meetingthefrench.com)
No friends in Paris? Meet some. This company arranges interesting tours, French cooking classes, and get-togethers with locals. 
PRETEND YOU LIVE THERE: Rent an Apartment 
The most important aspect when renting an apartment abroad is a feeling of trust. When arriving in a strange city, where you may not speak the language, the last thing you want is for things to go wrong. While listings on Craigslist may be the most affordable, they're not necessarily the most reliable. So, in addition to checking out photos of apartments online:
- Make sure someone with responsibility will meet you with the key (door locks can be tricky & you'll need a code to get into most Paris buildings).
- Be sure to have a contact phone number (not just an email) for someone who can help if anything needs to be fixed during your stay.
- As soon as you walk in, make sure everything works (stove, shower, etc.) and that you know how to turn appliances on/off.
- Find out the refund policy beforehand should the apartment not be as advertised. 
Your American Friend in Paris (Tel: +33 (0)6-70-98-13-68; www.terrance-paris.com) Run by transplanted-American Terrance Gelenter, this company rents apartments in several different neighborhoods. Terrance, who's a real character and loads of fun, also organizes private tours and interesting events. 


(photo: Amélie Dupont © Paris Tourist Office)
VRBO (Vacation Rentals By Owner) - I've heard only good things from people who've used this service.
OTHER OPTIONS:
House Sit or Swap
Instead of renting, you can swap apartments or house sit (this usually involves pet sitting). 
There are so many online sites to choose from, try to get recommendations from people you know who've done it and had positive experiences. Here are some sites:
House Sit (most require a fee to join): Housecarers.com; www.mindmyhouse.com; www.luxuryhousesitting.com; www.caretaker.org
Swap: https://www.homeexchange.com

Couchsurfing & Servas: Members of both organizations will put you up for free. While Couchsurfing is a newer, online service--all the rage with the twentysomething set, Servas has been around since 1949 and has a philosophy behind it: Gandhi’s concept of promoting world peace through intercultural exchange.
A Good Source: The Paris tourism office, Paris Info, always has the latest on new hotels, B&B, apartment rentals, etc. Check their comprehensive list, constantly updated with new options. 

Getting There: Norse Atlantic Airways https://flynorse.com - This low-cost carrier has great fares from the US to Paris: currently from New York (JFK) & Los Angeles (LAX). Economy (Light, Classic or Flextra) is an excellent deal but, with these affordable fares, go for the extra legroom in Premium. The Norse onboard experience is great. The flight attendants/stewards are friendly and helpful. Their planes are in excellent condition and, allegedly, the 787 Dreamliners are more energy-efficient with less emissions. Norse flies into Paris’ Charles de Galle (CDG) airport with easy-access to the RER B (train to the city center) & the TGV (fast train to other parts of the country).
French bee https://us.frenchbee.com – Another good, budget choice. Currently flies from New York (Newark, EWR), Los Angeles (LAX), San Francisco (SFO) & Miami (MIA) to Orly (ORY),
Paris’ smaller, easier-to-navigate airport.