Paris: 5 Top Artists Open Studio Visits (Portes Ouvertes)

Poster by Olivier Geffard

By Jacquelin Carnegie - (Paris, France)
Going on artists’ open studio visits is a great way to see interesting artwork and to get to know Paris. Because the Portes Ouvertes are organized by neighborhood (arrondissement), you can explore areas you might not be familiar with and get an inside peak into unique studio spaces and, sometimes, even an artist's home. The Open Studios (Portes Ouvertes) take place twice a year in spring and fall. Generally, work in all mediums is on exhibit: painting, photography, sculpture, woodworking, ceramics, mixed media, and video.
THE BEST PORTES OUVERTES IN PARIS
Each Portes Ouvertes location has Welcome Centers (points d’accueil) where you can get more information on the artists and pick up a map of the area's open studios. (Also, checkout each Portes Ouvertes' website beforehand for info and to download a map.)
Les Ateliers d'Artistes de Belleville (May)
Belleville: 19th arrondissement, with some sections in the 20th, 10th/11th
(Metro: Belleville or Jourdain) ateliers-artistes-belleville.fr
Belleville is a working class neighborhood with a large immigrant population, adding to its intrigue and diversity. There are some 250 artists and 20 collectives participating in the open studio visits.

Belleville (photo: Amelie Dupont)

Les Ateliers d'Artistes du Père Lachaise (May & Dec)
Père Lachaise: 20th arrondissement (Metro: Dumas or Avron) www.apla.fr/blog
The neighborhood is best known for the famous Père Lachaise Cemetery where the celebrated come to rest--Molière, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Chopin, Edith Piaf, and many other notables. About 40 "living" artists participate in the Portes Ouvertes and there's also a group show.

Portes Ouvertes - Les Frigos (May-June) 

Les Frigos: 19 rue des Frigos; 13th arrondissement (Metro: Bibliothèque François Mitterrand) www.les-frigos.com

Sculptor Jean-Paul Reti at Les Frigos

Les Frigos (The Refrigerators) is a building with studio spaces for about 200 eclectic artists. A former depot for trains carrying fresh produce into Paris, it's one of the only buildings to survive gentrification in this former industrial area on the Seine. Visit during the Portes Ouvertes or by appointment with a resident artist. The wonderful sculptor Jean-Paul Reti is the unofficial “mayor” of Les Frigos; if he’s not busy working on his art, he’s happy to explain the background of the building to visitors. 

Portes Ouvertes - Portes d’Or (June) 

Goutte d’Or: 18th arrondissement (Metro: Château Rouge or Barbès-Rochechouart) www.portesdor.com
The Goutte d’Or (drop of gold), east of Montmartre, is a working-class neighborhood where many North African immigrants live or come to shop, making for lively street scenes. Over 100 artists have studios here. Not to be missed is the work by José Cuneo, originally from Argentina, who makes marvelous, witty, 3-D light-boxes.

Cuneo's 3-D Paris Light Box

Portes Ouvertes des Ateliers de Ménilmontant (Sept)
Ménilmontant: 11th arrondissement (Metro: Ménilmontant or Place Gambetta)
www.ateliersdemenilmontant.org
Over 150 artistes open their studios in Ménilmontant, a hilly, working class area with cobblestone streets and old houses, bordered by Belleville and Père Lachaise. Famous singers Edith Piaf and Maurice Chevalier were born here; it's a fascinating area to discover. 

STREET ART 

While the Portes Ouvertes happen at specific times of year, you can see fantastic street art whenever you're in Paris. Wander around in the Belleville and Ménilmontant neighborhoods. Since the art on the walls is constantly in flux, you can pass by often and see something different as well as some enduring favorites. Or, take an informative, guided tour:

Paris Street Art Tours: These tours, led by a street art aficionado, are extremely-informative (in French or in English). 

Where To Stay: Paris is not only the City of Light, it's the city of fabulous art that will knock your socks off! Here are some equally interesting places to stay.

4 Great Day Trips from NYC: Splendor in the Grass--Outdoor Sculpture

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (New York, NY)

If you need a break from hectic city life, nothing soothes the soul more than art experienced in a beautiful setting.

STORM KING ART CENTER

Old Pleasant Hill Rd., Mountainville, NY; Tel: 845/534-3115; www.stormkingartcenter.org
(Open: April-November; Admission fee)

 Storm King, Maya Lin’s Wavefield (photo: Jerry L. Thompson)

This open-air museum, about an hour north of the city, features monumental sculptures in a Hudson Valley setting so stunning it will take your breath away. Around 100 spectacular works by acclaimed artists such as Alexander Calder, Henry Moore, Isamu Noguchi, and Louise Nevelson along with pieces by contemporary sculptors Andy Goldsworthy and Richard Serra are strategically placed in the fields, hills, and woodlands. Each year, the Center commissions new and exciting work for a special, themed exhibition. Also, be sure to check out Wavefield, an earth and grass installation by celebrated artist Maya Lin.

Storm King, William Lamson’s Solarium, Light and Landscape 

(photo: Jerry L. Thompson)

Spending the Day: 

Get around the 500-acre Storm King grounds by walking, taking a free tram, or renting a bike. There are few shaded areas, so in summertime bring a big hat and/or a parasol and plenty of sunscreen. There’s an open-air café for sandwiches or pack a lunch to be enjoyed at one of the pretty picnic areas.

Getting There: From New York (Port Authority Bus Terminal), take a Coach USA (Short Line) bus direct to Storm King.

GOVERNORS ISLAND

New York Harbor, www.govisland.com

(Open: Daily, year-round; Ferry fee)  

Mark di Suvero, courtesy Storm King 

(photo: JCarnegie)

This lovely spot, 5 minutes from Manhattan Island, was called Nut Island by Native Americans when it was “purchased” by the Dutch in 1637; it became part of New York under the English. Then, for about 200 years, what’s now called Governors Island was a base for the US Army and Coast Guard. Most recently, the Island has been transformed into an artsy recreational area open to the pubic. 

Governors Island, Mark di Suvero, courtesy Storm King 

(photo: Jerry L. Thompson)

Spending the Day: 

Get around Governors Island by walking, bringing a bike, or renting one or a fun Surrey. There's a variety of food vendors, but your best-bet is to pack a lunch and head to Picnic Point with great views of the Statue of Liberty. Some new, fancy options include a Spa with pool & overnight stays via Glamping.

Getting There: Access Governors Island by a quick ferry ride from Manhattan (Battery Maritime Building, next to the Staten Island Ferry Terminal) or Brooklyn (Pier 6 in Brooklyn Bridge Park or Red Hook & NYC Ferry stops).

KYKUIT

Rt. 9, Sleepy Hollow, NY; Tel: 914/631-8200; http://www.hudsonvalley.org/historic-sites/kykuit

(Open: May – November; Admission fee)

Kykuit  (photo: Ben Lee)

Kykuit, the Rockefeller family mansion--now an historic site--less than an hour north of the city, is situated on a bluff providing magnificent views of the Hudson River. The Rockefellers championed modern art, so the house is filled with impressive artwork. But make sure to purchase the tour package that includes the gardens because, on the estate grounds, there’s an absolutely amazing collection of modern sculpture by Picasso, Brancusi, Calder, Giacometti, Henry Moore, Isamu Noguchi, Louise Nevelson, and David Smith.

Kykuit, Max Bill’s Triangular Surface in Space
(photo: Ben Lee)

Spending the Day: 

The only way to visit is on a tour, best booked beforehand; wandering around on your own is not permitted. At Phillpsburg Manor, Kykuit’s Vistor Center, there's a café with sandwiches & salads and picnic tables or stop at a restaurant in Tarrytown: Sweet Grass Grill on Main Street or dine right on the water at the Washington Irving Boat Club.

Getting There: From New York (Grand Central Station), take Metro North train Hudson Line to Tarrytown. Then, a taxi from the station to Phillpsburg Manor, Kykuit’s Vistor Center, where all the tours start.

GROUNDS FOR SCULPTURE

18 Fairgrounds Rd., Hamilton, NJ; Tel: 609/586-0616; www.groundsforsculpture.org

Grounds for Sculpture, Carlos Dorrien’s Nine Muses 

(photo: Ricardo Barros)

(Open: Year-round; Admission fee, Reserve tickets in advance)

In New Jersey, about an hour from New York City, you’ll find one of the most delightful places. In a pretty, 42-acre park surrounding a lake, over 300 sculptures by established and emerging artists are on display. The pieces range from traditional to abstract to whimsical by renowned artists such as Clement Meadmore, Anthony Caro, Beverly Pepper, Kiki Smith, and George Segal.

Grounds for Sculpture, If It Were Time by Seward Johnson, 

a 3-D version of Monet’s painting Terrace at Sainte-Adresse.

Spending the Day: 

Stroll leisurely around the Grounds. (In summertime, bring a hat and/or a parasol & plenty of sunscreen.) The Van Gogh Café is a nice spot for salads & sandwiches. Rat’s Restaurant is a more upscale option for lunch or dinner. (They’ll even prepare a picnic basket for you to enjoy by the lake, as outside food is not allowed). 

Getting There: From New York (Penn Station), take NJ Transit train to Hamilton. Then, a 5-minute taxi ride to Grounds For Sculpture.

Discover France’s La Vendée Region, Part 3: Noirmoutier – Island Life: Sun, Sand, Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes!

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Noirmoutier (photo: @lenamrzl)

La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western coast. It’s known for its’ lovely, beach towns such as Les Sables-d'Olonne and its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. Then, there’s Noirmoutier—an island that’s about as idyllic as beach life could get: totally peaceful and extremely picturesque. The French and other Europeans like to vacation here, and you will too. There’s great food, beautiful beaches, and some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France! 
11 GREAT REASONS TO VISIT NOIRMOUTIER ISLAND
Apart from by boat, for centuries, the only way to reach Noirmoutier Island was via the Passage du Gois, a tidal causeway only accessible at low tide. Finally, in 1971, a bridge was built making this vacation paradise more accessible. The best times to visit: April, May & June (to avoid the summer crowds) and September (if the weather is good).
1) Get Ready To Unwind: Complete Serenity
Maybe it’s the light or the microclimate (mild winters and temperate summers), but the moment you arrive, you relax. You’ll be charmed by the pretty surroundings, the lovely villages, the sunny weather, the crystal-blue water, the nice beaches, the simple, carefree lifestyle, the traditional white houses with blue shutters, the scent of mimosas…the food!
2) Explore The Island
It’s confusing, so just to be clear, the island is: l'Île de Noirmoutier. The main town is: Noirmoutier-en-l'île -- filled with cute, little shops, lots of great restaurants, and several historic sites.

Noirmoutier-en-ile (photo: @Trendz)

Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’île &/or Rue de Polder, Barbâtre) - First, stop at the tourism office for some itinerary suggestions & to pick up a map. Then, drive around or, since the island is relatively flat, go exploring by bike.
Visit the Villages & Neighborhoods: Barbâtre, la Guérinière, l'Épine, l'Herbaudière & Noirmoutier-en-l'île. L'Herbaudière Port: A lively fishing port with a marina, souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. Bois de la Chaise: An area of lovely villas and chalets surrounded by picturesque pines, mimosa & oak trees. See the Windmills – Since the 7th century, there have been windmills on the island. Of the 32 erected during the 19th century, 23 remain; several have been turned into unique, vacation homes.
3) Relax at The Beach

Plage des Dames (photo: J.Carnegie)

Noirmoutier is an island in the Bay of Biscay, so there are lovely beaches everywhere you turn. Some of the most popular: Plage des Dames, Plage des Sableaux, Anse Rouge & La Madeleine. Go to several and see which ones you like best!
4) Get A Refreshing Workout – Sports Galore
There are lots of water sports to enjoy: kitesurfing, paddleboarding, kayaking, water skiing, scuba diving, sailing, etc.
In addition to biking around the island, there are beautiful places to stroll and hike: along the beaches, through the salt marshes, and on lovely trails in the woods: Forêt de la Frandière in Barbâtre, Bois des Eloux in L'Epine & Bois de la Chaise in Noirmoutier. Plus: Horseback riding, tennis, fishing, etc.
5) Discover The Island’s Food Heritage: Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes
Noirmoutier’s year-round inhabitants are people who’ve lived off the land & sea for generations: mostly fisherman, potato farmers, and salt harvesters.
Salt: In the 7th century, Benedictine monks began transforming the island’s wetlands into salterns--basins where salt is cultivated. Today, there are about 100 salt harvesters (saunier) on the island, using traditional methods to harvest the “white gold” Fleur de sel.

Noirmoutier Potatoes (photo: Julien Gazeau)

Seafood: More than 100 fishing boats unload their catches here daily, including sole, sea bass, striped mullet, lobsters, etc. Locals also like to dig for clams & shrimp and harvest oysters & the delectable bouchot mussels.
Potatoes: Noirmoutier is famous for its’ potatoes--the Sirtema, the Lady Cristl, the Charlotte, but especially the Bonnotte. Planted by hand, grown in sandy soil, and fertilized with seaweed, which gives them their unique flavor.
Les Saveurs de l'ile de Noirmoutier - You can find these and other specialties such as cookies & pastries at little shops and at weekly “Farmers’ Markets” throughout the island. All local products are certified; look for the label Saveurs de l’île de Noirmoutier (Flavors of Noirmoutier Island).
6) Enjoy Some of The Most Delicious Meals You’ll Ever Eat
The chefs here benefit from the island’s bounty to create amazing dishes. Each restaurant offers its own take on Noirmoutier's cuisine. There are many to choose from; start with these: 
Le 11 (11 Quai Cassard, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 11 11; https://le11denoirmoutier.com) - Right on the waterfront, a casual, very-friendly spot with tasty meals; try their special: Fish & Chips.

Bouchot Mussels (photo; @Trendz)

Le P’tit Noirmout (10 Rue du Marché, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 79 52; https://www.le-ptit-noirmout.com) - Good food in a lively, fun atmosphere.
Le Petit Bouchot (3 Rue Saint-Louis, Noirmoutier-en-l'île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 32 56; https://www.restaurant-noirmoutier.com) - Delicious meals in a very staid, traditional setting.
La Potinière (27 Ave Georges Clemenceau, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 09 61; https://potinierenoirmoutier.com) – A very-modern fish & seafood place, right at the beach, Plage des Dames in Bois de la Chaise.
La Marine*** (5 Rue Marie Lemonnier, L'Herbaudière, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 23 09; https://www.alexandrecouillon.com) - Michelin 3-star restaurant, booked a year in advance. Chef Alexandre Couillon uses only the freshest, local ingredients: seafood right from the port across the street and herbs & vegetables from his own “kitchen garden.” His wife Céline also runs the more-casual, bistro next door La Table d'Elise. Can’t get into either, get some tasty goodies at their little pastry/grocery shop, Le Petit Couillon.
7) Go on a Guided Tour
Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’ile; Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 80 71) - The Tourism Office offers several interesting Tours (only in French), but some you could enjoy anyway such as a boating excursion. It’s worth checking out what they have to offer. In addition…

Marais Salants (photo: Simon Bourcier)

Visite des Marais Salants – Visit a salt basin to see how the Fleur de sel is harvested. (Marais de Bonne Pogne: May-Sept, tour in English.)
Visite de la Criée à L'Herbaudière Port – Tour the port and the “criée” (fish auction market) where all the fishing boats unload their daily catch. (Tour in French only.) 
8) Take Part In Unique Island Activities
La Fête de la Bonnotte (May) – On the 1st Saturday in May, Noirmoutier’s illustrious Bonnotte potato is feted with an elaborate, communal meal followed by a concert. In the morning, you can go into the fields to pick your own potatoes.
Les Foulées du Gois (June) – Athletes race across the Passage du Gois against the rising tide. Or, just consult the tide schedule and walk or bike across any time at your leisure.
9) Learn More About The Island’s Historic Heritage
Noirmoutier-en-l'île has several historic sites to visit:

Windmill house (photo: J.Carnegie)

Château de Noirmoutier (Place d'Armes) – This 12th century castle is now a museum. Climb to the top for a great panoramic view.

Hôtel Jacobsen (Rue Saint Louis) – Once the home of the influential Jacobsen family, it’s now a maritime-history museum.
Église Saint-Philbert (2 rue du Cheminet) – This 11th century church was built on the grounds of the former Benedictine Abbey, founded in 674 by the monk Saint-Philbert.
10) Be Entertained
Les Salorges (22 Quai Jean Bart, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île) - At this performance center, even if you don’t speak French, there are lots of dance & concert programs to enjoy as well as many programs for kids.
Several cafés in the various villages have live music in the evenings and, if you speak &/or understand French, go to the movies: Le Mimosa (73 Ave Joseph Pineau, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île). 
11) Be Welcomed Like Family
The people in all the shops, restaurants, and guesthouses are very welcoming—especially if you arrive off-season, in the spring or fall, as I’m recommending.
Where To Stay: There’s everything from hotels to Maison d'hôtes (guesthouses) to camping grounds and rental homes. Here’s a lovely place to start: 

The Corner

The Corner - Maison d'hôtes (2 rue du Général Leclerc, Noirmoutier-en-l’île;
Tel: +33 (0)6 09 86 17 79; https://www.thecorner-no.fr) - When traveling to some place you’ve never been before, it’s nice to be welcomed with open arms. The Corner, is owned by an American, Diane, and her French-chef husband, Raphael. It’s like staying with family you just never met before. Located in the center of lovely Noirmoutier-en-l’île, right by all the cute little shops, the house dates from 1814 and was the home of the former mayor. Completely renovated, today there are 5 beautifully-decorated guest rooms—perfect for romantic getaways. And, in the adjoining property, there are larger rooms great for families or groups of friends traveling together. The amount of thought and attention to detail that has gone into decorating & outfitting each guest room is truly amazing. That, plus Chef Raphael’s delicious meals makes The Corner the perfect place to start your vacation on Noirmoutier Island.
Getting Around: You can rent a car or a bike or hop on the little

Passage de Gois (photo: @alamoureux)

tourist train, Noirmout'Train. 

Getting There: From Paris: SNCF Train to Nantes with a connecting bus, Aléop coach #13 (2hrs & 1.5hrs). Airport: Nantes Atlantique (then an hour drive to the island). Or, consult the tide schedule and drive, bike or walk across the Passage du Gois!

Beyond Art: Great Entertainment at 12 Top New York City Museums

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Breaking the Waves, Works & Process,
The Guggenheim

In museums all over town, there's lots more happening than the exhibits on the walls: Music, Dance & Family Fun. New York City museums have become de facto performing arts centers with exciting events, often thematically tied into what's on view. Here's a small sampling to get you started:

UPTOWN - MUSEUM MILE
THE GUGGENHEIM
1071 Fifth Ave (at 88th St); www.guggenheim.org/new-york
Throughout the year, there are several top-notch, special events, so be sure to check the Performance calendar. Works & Process: In an intimate theater space, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, this performing arts series gives you the opportunity to see new works by some of the most acclaimed, international creators and performers in the world.

Peter & the Wolf, The Guggenheim

For the Holidays: Don't miss the divine Isaac Mizrahi production of Prokofiev's Peter and the Wolf and the Rotunda Holiday Concerts--fun for children and adults!

THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

Fuentidueña Chapel, The Cloisters

1000 Firth Ave (at 82nd St); www.metmuseum.org
There is always something cultural happening at the museum from concerts to lectures to site-specific performances. 

MetLiveArts: This series offers interesting performances, commissions, and world premieres in the museum's theater. Site-specific events are set in unique gallery spaces throughout the museum.
THE MET CLOISTERS - Concerts www.metmuseum.org/visit/met-cloisters
In the beautiful, medieval Cloisters' museum in Fort Tyron Park, concerts are held in the splendid, 12th-century Fuentidueña Chapel, with wonderful acoustics. (Concert tickets include free, same-day museum admission.)

THE JEWISH MUSEUM

The Jewish Museum

1109 Fifth Ave (at 92nd St); www.thejewishmuseum.org
The museum offers an amazing range of cultural programs from interesting discussions with artists and curators, to talks by contemporary authors and thinkers, concerts, and other performances and workshops inspired by exhibitions on view.

MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK

El Museo del Barrio 
(photo: Michael Palma Mir)

1220 Fifth Ave (at 103rd St); www.mcny.org

This museum, devoted to New York City history, presents fascinating events and talks illuminating New York's past and imagining the city's future. Check out the Stories & Events calendar. 

EL MUSESO DEL BARRIO

1230 Fifth Ave (at 104th St); www.elmuseo.org
The museum focuses on Latino arts and culture. Its' bilingual programs, festivals, and special events celebrate the rich cultural heritage of the Caribbean and Latin America. Get ready to party!

THE FRICK COLLECTION

1 East 70th Street; https://www.frick.org

The Frick, Living Hall (photo: Michael Bodycomb)

Henry Clay Frick was a successful, robber-baron, industrialist during the Gilded Age who had a passion for art. His magnificent 1914 Beaux-Arts mansion on Fifth Avenue, designed by Carrère and Hastings, was turned into a museum in 1930. Now, after an impressive, major renovation, it’s like walking through a “lifestyle” rather than a museum. In addition to lush 16th- to 18th-century furnishings, paintings (Rembrandts, Van Dykes, Vermeers, Turners, Fragonards, Gainsboroughs, etc.), sculptures, and decorative objects, the family’s former, private rooms on the 2nd floor have been turned into exhibit space. Concerts will be held in a new, state-of-the-art auditorium and a lecture series in a new education center. Welcome to a beautifully-updated, Gilded Age experience!

DOWNTOWN

WHITNEY
99 Gansevoort St; www.whitney.org

Terrace, Whitney

In a downtown area, recently made hip by the fabulous High Line walkway, 20th- and 21st-century American art is celebrated in the museum's new building abuzz with activity. The Whitney Biennial is one of the museum's signature exhibits, along with an exciting, eclectic mix of performances and talks on a regular basis that are tied into current exhibits. Plus, check out the cool events on Free Friday Nights & Free 2nd Sundays. Best feature: The "art terraces" on every level with stunning views of New York and the Hudson River. 

MUSEUM OF JEWISH HERITAGE
Edmond J. Safra Plaza, 36 Battery Place; mjhnyc.org
While not as well known as The Jewish Museum, MJH, located downtown by Battery Park, presents a broad tapestry of Jewish life in the 20th and 21st centuries—before, during, and after the Holocaust. Hence, the engrossing programs include discussions, films, plays, and concerts that highlight the richness of Jewish culture and ideas. (There's also an Andy Goldsworthy stone garden really worth seeing and great views of the Statue of Liberty.)

Pioneer, Seaport Museum

SOUTH STREET SEAPORT MUSEUM
12 Fulton St & 213 Water St; https://southstreetseaportmuseum.org
The museum, on Schermerhorn Row in the historic seaport district, presents the story of New York as a great port city through an extensive collection of maritime artifacts and a fleet of historic vessels. Their newly-renovated A.A. Thomson & Co. building, around the corner on Water Street, is now a hub for any number of engaging, public programs such as lectures, live music, films & special events. And, from May to September, enjoy a sail on the Hudson River onboard the Pioneer schooner or the W.O. Decker tug boat!

WESTSIDE
AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY

Central Park West at 79th St; www.amnh.org

Apex Stegosaurus, AMNH

The museum is a treasure trove of discoveries. In addition to all the interesting exhibits and dioramas, there are wonderful activities for kids and adults: the Astronomy Live series; the annual Margaret Mead Film Festival; cocktails & conversation at the after-hours SciCafe evenings; and family-fun cultural events, themed to tie-in with current exhibits. There's a lot more going on here than dinosaur bones!

         BROOKLYN
BROOKLYN MUSEUM OF ART

The Bang Group, BMA

200 Eastern Pkwy, Brooklyn; www.brooklynmuseum.org
In addition to way-cool exhibits, BMA offers a variety of interesting events for adults, teens, and kids. These include talks, performances, films, and workshops that enhance the museum’s current exhibits and permanent collection. Every month, there's also free First Saturdays which usually feature music, dancing and a film, plus museum admission.

Editor's Note: Some of these wonderful, special museum events are free with admission, others require a separate ticket and/or booking in advance. Be sure to check the museum's website. And, when you enter any museum, be sure to read the signs ("suggested" admission means pay any amount not the $20+ listed). Also, many museums have free or "pay what you wish" evenings starting at around 5pm. The Metropolitan Museum ticket includes same-day admission to The Met Cloisters. Some events may also be offered online. 

Concierge Confessions: 15 Top Sightseeing Tips in Washington, DC

By Jacquelin Carnegie

(photo: National Cherry Blossom Festival)

Visiting The White House and the Smithsonian Museums is already on your itinerary. But these great sightseeing tips come from the best kept secret in the nation’s capital—Les Clefs d'Or hotel concierges. (A pin of crossed gold keys on a concierge’s lapel means you’re getting advice from a seasoned professional.) Les Clefs d'Or concierges pride themselves on really knowing their cities—the best sights, events, restaurants, etc.—so you can get the most out of your visit. These wonderful activities are some of their top DC recommendations: 

CHEAPEST RIDES TO ALL THE DC SIGHTS
Best Ways to Get Around Downtown DC 
The Metro & Metrobus are great ways to get to all the cultural and entertainment sights in the DC city center. They run frequently, so get SmarTrip. There's also a Capitol Bikeshare program and, of course, Hop-On-Hop-Off buses. They may be touristy, but are an excellent way to get acclimated.

DC MUSEUMS NOT TO BE MISSED
The Smithsonian Institution in DC, includes some 19 museums, galleries and the National Zoo! All are amazing and worth visiting, especially since they’re all free. 
Additionally, there are numerous other gems such as:

(photo: Hillwood Estate)

Fabulous Fabric: The Textile Museum
(701 21st St, NW; https://museum.gwu.edu)
Established in 1925, the collection features fabulous antique and contemporary textile arts such as oriental rugs, American quilts, silk clothing, and cotton fabrics. It's now part of the George Washington University Museum at Foggy Bottom.
First in Modern Art: The Phillips Collection
(1600 21st Street NW; www.phillipscollection.org)
Considered America’s first modern art museum, opened in 1921, with a great collection, located in the lovely Dupont Circle neighborhood. 

Estate Envy: Hillwood Estate - Museum & Gardens
(4155 Linnean Ave., NW; www.hillwoodmuseum.org)
Be sure to plan at least half a day to visit the magnificent Marjorie Merriweather Post mansion-museum & gardens; there’s a nice café, too.

EAT, PRAY, DRINK YOUR WAY AROUND DC
Best Hail Mary: Dahlgren Chapel of the Sacred Heart

Georgetown University Campus (37th & O St. NW, Healy 113)
Of the seven chapels on the Georgetown campus, the beautiful Dahlgren Chapel, built in 1893, is the primary house of worship for the campus’ Catholic community. After Mass, head over to The Tombs restaurant for more libations.

Dahlgren Chapel (photo: Georgetown University)

Best Bloody Mary: The Tombs 

(1226 36th St. NW; Tel: 202/337-6668; www.tombs.com) 
After you’ve repented, enjoy the best Bloody Mary in town or Sunday brunch at this popular Georgetown hangout in the basement of the 1789 Restaurant.
Best Combo – Books & Beer: Kramerbooks
(1517 Connecticut Ave. NW; Tel: 202/387-1400; www.kramers.com)
Pick up the latest bestseller, a cold one & a tasty snack all at this wonderful, independent bookstore and resto-bar.

SIGHTSEE DC BY BIKE OR BOAT
Best Sightseeing on Wheels: Bike Tours
Unlimited Biking - Learn some interesting history and get unique DC touring tips as well as a nice workout on these informative bike tours of Washington, DC & Alexandria, VA. Or, just rent a bike to explore the sights on your own.
Great Recreation: Fletcher's Boathouse - Boat & Bike rental 

(4940 Canal Rd NW; www.fletcherscove.com; Open March-Nov)
Located in Georgetown on a cove along the Potomac River, Fletcher’s Boathouse has provided a bit of nature and recreation for DC residents, including several Presidents, since the 1850s. Go for a leisurely boat, canoe or kayak ride, or bike along the C&O Canal towpath.

C&O Canal Boat (photo: National Park foundation)

Cool Canal Boat Rides: C&O Canal 

(Georgetown Visitor Center, 1057 Thomas Jefferson St. NW;  https://www.nps.gov/choh)

The Chesapeake & Ohio Canal was built between 1828-1850 to transport agricultural goods to market. Today, it’s a National Historical Park that starts in Georgetown and runs 184.5 miles. You can walk or bike along the towpath. Or, go on a fascinating Canal Boat Tour to learn all about the history of life on the canal in mid-19th-century America. (Spring/Summer) 

GET YOUR FILL OF DC GARDENS & HISTORY
Most Amazing Garden: The Bishop’s Garden - National Cathedral
(3101 Wisconsin Ave. NW; https://cathedral.org/gardens)

Bishop's Garden (photo: All Hallows Guild)

Most people tour the stunning National Cathedral without stopping to admire the gardens on 59-acres of wooded, landscaped grounds. The Bishop’s Garden, planned by Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr., is a beautiful, medieval-style garden planted with fruit trees, roses, perennial flowering plants and herbs. Winding stone paths, a gazebo, a 9th-century baptismal font and other statuary add to the charm.
Oldest House: The Old Stone House

(3051 M St. NW, Georgetown; https://www.nps.gov) 

Built by cabinetmaker Christopher Layman in 1765, this house in Georgetown is considered the oldest building in Washington, DC. Take a trip back to the 18th century by touring the period rooms, when open. Be sure to admire the English garden out back.

BEST PLACES TO STAY IN DC
The Mayflower Hotel, Marriott (1127 Connecticut Ave. NW; https://tinyurl.com/uvfx8bke) - Opened in 1925, this 4-diamond, luxury hotel near Dupont Circle is one of the Historic Hotels of America. President Harry Truman called it the "second best address" in DC.
The Willard (1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; washington.intercontinental.com) - On the National Register of Historic Places, this magnificent hotel has been at the center of DC’s social and political scene since 1818; a favorite of President Ulysses S. Grant.

 Washington Monument (photo: National Cherry Blossom Festival)

Hotel Monaco, Kimpton (700 F St. NW; https://www.monaco-dc.com) - This luxury, boutique hotel is in the original US General Post Office building, a registered National Landmark.
The Ritz Carlton (1150 22nd St. NW; https://www.ritzcarlton.com) - Relax in sophisticated elegance in the heart of downtown DC.

DON’T MISS DC’S FAB FESTIVALS
The Best of the Fests: Some highlights - National Cherry Blossom Festival (March-April); DC Jazz Fest (Labor Day weekend) and the terrific & unique Smithsonian Folklife Festival (June-July) on the National Mall; a great way to celebrate the 4th of July! There is so much to explore from cool neighborhoods to national monuments, plus theaters, jazz clubs, and entertainment venues; one visit just won’t be enough!

Marvelous Mosaic: 5+ Great Ways to Celebrate Irish Culture & St. Paddy’s Day in NYC

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (New York, NY)

Every March, it’s time to dig out that bright green sweater and brace yourself for gallons of green beer, rowdy teenagers, and lousy weather--it's Saint Paddy’s Day in New York! But, Irish culture is so rich and varied, it should be celebrated for more than just one day! Here are some great ways to do so all year long in New York:

Come for The Craic

Irish Arts Center 

Celtic AppalachianCelebration II 

(photo: Brandilyn Davidson & Erin Baiano)

726 11th Ave (btw 51-52 St), Tel: 212/757-3318; www.irishartscenter.org

The IAC is a treasure-trove of Irish cultural activities. Throughout the year, attend concerts, dance performances, plays, films, lectures or readings, and be sure to enjoy “the craic” (great conversation). If you’re bitten by the Irish bug, the IAC also offers classes for children and adults in Irish music, dance, language, and history. Great annual events include: St. Patrick's Day Open House (Free): Celebrate Irish music & dance with performances and craft workshops for the whole family. Book Day: Snag a free book by a great Irish or Irish-American author.

Discover Irish Playwrights

Donnybrook! (photo: Carol Rosegg)

The Irish Repertory Theatre

132 West 22nd St; Tel: 212/727-2737; www.irishrep.org

The Irish Rep features plays and musicals by well-known and emerging Irish and Irish-American playwrights. 

Get Some Culture

American Irish Historical Society

991 Fifth Ave., at 80th St.; Tel: 212/288-2263, www.aihs.org 

Founded in 1897, the AIHS celebrates the Irish-American experience with a focus on contemporary Irish culture. Events range from talks to art exhibits to readings and concerts on the harp, piano, penny whistle, and bodhrán. All take place in AIHS’ magnificent Beaux-Arts townhouse.
Thrill to the Music

In New York, there are Irish musicians playing everything from traditional, to rock to pop. No matter what your taste, there’s a band for you.
Paddy Reilly's Music Bar (519 2^nd Ave., at 29^th St.; Tel: 212/686-1210; www.paddyreillysmusicbar.us): In NYC, there’s an Irish pub on almost every corner, but this is one of the best with great Irish music; Black 47 got their start here.

New in Town: Emmet Cahill the hottest Irish tenor and lead singer of the fab Celtic Thunder group.

Old Favorites: For 25 years, Black 47 was “Rockin’ The Bronx,” giving voice to the joy and the sorrow of all the Irish immigrants who’ve found a second home on Bainbridge Avenue and in other New York boroughs. Band leader Larry Kirwan now does solo gigs with a St. Patrick's Day concert. 

Some years, The Celtic Tenors, doing traditional songs, and The Saw Doctors, with their folk-rock vibe, roll into town. 

Larry Kirwan of Black 47

Sober St. Patrick’s Day® - This is a wonderful way to enjoy the sprit of the day with great Irish entertainment--acclaimed musicians, dancers, singers, comedians--but without the rowdy drunks.

Worship in Gaelic

The Basilica of St. Patrick's Old Cathedral

263 Mulberry St, corner of Mott & Prince, Tel: 212-226-8075; www.oldcathedral.org
Long before people worshiped at Saint Patrick's Cathedral (1879), on Fifth Avenue and 50^th St., they came here to the city's first Cathedral Church, founded in 1809. Today, Mass is given in English, Spanish, Chinese, and, on occasion, in the Irish language, Gaelic. Throughout the year, there are lovely concerts and other cultural offerings.

 (photo: Laura_Mexico)

Saint Patrick's Day Parade

The first St. Patrick's Day Parade in New York was held in 1762, when Irish ex-patriots and Irish soldiers marched through the city. Every year, the Parade heads up Fifth Avenue, from 44th St to 86th St.

Did you know that there are other regions, referred to as "Celtic Nations," that share this heritage with Ireland: Brittany, France; Wales; Scotland; the Isle of Man & Cornwall.

(Often, Brittany's BZH NY society invites musicians from Brittany to perform and celebrate St. Patrick's Day in New York.)