5+ Ways To Get the Most Out of Paris: Hotel Hop, Apartment Swap, Meet the French & More

By Jacquelin Carnegie - (Paris, France) 

Les Parisiens by Kanako  

(Mairie de Paris, My Little Paris & Editions du Chêne)

Paris is all about neighborhoods. Instead of spending your whole stay in the same hotel, discover Paris' many wonderful neighborhoods by moving around! You can accomplish this in several different ways: Do a mix-and-match of hotel stays, apartment rentals, and bed & breakfasts. Yes, packing and unpacking is a drag, but this is such a great way to really get to know the city, just pack light.
Paris has 20 districts (arrondissements), each with a distinct personality. Do some research beforehand, and explore the cafes, shops, and sights unique to each neighborhood. [To figure out an arrondissement, just look at the last 2 digits of the address's zip code: i.e., 75008 = 8th arrondissement.]

HOTEL HOP: Try Different Neighborhoods
Several major chains have hotels in different neighborhoods. Spend two or three nights in a variety of locations. While you're assured of a similar level of service, each hotel has its own style to match the arrondissement.
Hotel Chains: 

Renaissance Paris Nobel Tour Eiffel, 16th

Marriott has several Paris hotels, including the Renaissance & Courtyard brands.

Novotel has about 10 Paris hotels which can be selected by arrondissement. 

The Leading Hotels of The World has a group of luxury Paris hotels for a splurge.
Boutique Hotels:
These are lovely, smaller hotels with lots of character. There are so many to choose from, it's hard to know where to begin. Perhaps pick an area you'd like to explore, then see what's nearby. For example:
Hôtel Observatoire Luxembourg (107 Blvd St Michel; www.observatoirehotel.com) - This little gem is right across from the famous Luxembourg Gardens in the 5th arrondissement.
Design Hotels recommends a group of Paris boutique hotels with oodles of style.

Molitor, MGallery Hotel Collection

Molitor (13 Rue Nungesser et Coli; https://www.molitorparis.com) – If you love to swim, consider the magnificent Molitor in the 16th arrondissement. This way-cool, artsy hotel features two restored, art-deco-style pools from 1929 and a Spa by Clarins. If you’re a tennis fan, it’s just across the street from the Roland-Garros stadium where the French Open is held. 

Chez Grace (photo: Owen Franken)

FEEL AT HOME:
Bed & Breakfasts
Usually, a Bed & Breakfast (Chambres d'hôtes) means a room--a very nice room--in someone's Paris apartment. Not only does this give you the chance to experience a slice of life in the City of Light, it also gives you the opportunity to meet real Parisians. You can find Chambres d’hôtes in every arrondissement with your criteria (i.e., no smoking, free Wi-Fi, etc.) and, since they're booked by the night, combine a few in different neighborhoods:
Airbnb (www.airbnb.com) - When renting a room you can sometimes luck out with an interesting host, willing to show you around the neighborhood or suggest great, local hangouts. 

Meeting the French (Tel: +33 (0)1-42-51-19-80; meetingthefrench.com)
No friends in Paris? Meet some. This company arranges interesting tours, French cooking classes, and get-togethers with locals. 
PRETEND YOU LIVE THERE: Rent an Apartment 

The most important aspect when renting an apartment abroad is a feeling of trust. When arriving in a strange city, where you may not speak the language, the last thing you want is for things to go wrong. While listings on Craigslist may be the most affordable, they're not necessarily the most reliable. So, in addition to checking out photos of apartments online:
- Make sure someone with responsibility will meet you with the key (door locks can be tricky & you'll need a code to get into most Paris buildings).
- Be sure to have a contact phone number (not just an email) for someone who can help if anything needs to be fixed during your stay.
- As soon as you walk in, make sure everything works (stove, shower, etc.) and that you know how to turn appliances on/off.
- Find out the refund policy beforehand should the apartment not be as advertised. 
Your American Friend in Paris (Tel: +33 (0)6-70-98-13-68; www.terrance-paris.com) Run by transplanted-American Terrance Gelenter, this company rents apartments in several different neighborhoods. Terrance, who's a real character and loads of fun, also organizes private tours and interesting events. 

(photo: Amélie Dupont © Paris Tourist Office)

VRBO (Vacation Rentals By Owner) - I've heard only good things from people who've used this service.

OTHER OPTIONS:

House Sit or Swap
Instead of renting, you can swap apartments or house sit (this usually involves pet sitting). There are so many online sites to choose from, try to get recommendations from people you know who've done it and had positive experiences. Here are some sites:

House Sit (most require a fee to join): Housecarers.com; www.mindmyhouse.com; www.luxuryhousesitting.com; www.caretaker.org
Swap: https://www.homeexchange.com
Couchsurfing & Servas: Members of both organizations will put you up for free. While Couchsurfing is a newer, online service--all the rage with the twentysomething set, Servas has been around since 1949 and has a philosophy behind it: Gandhi’s concept of promoting world peace through intercultural exchange.

A Good Source: The Paris tourism office, Paris Info, always has the latest on new hotels, B&B, apartment rentals, etc. Check their comprehensive list, constantly updated with new options. 

Getting There: Norse Atlantic Airways https://flynorse.com - This low-cost carrier has great fares from the US to Paris: currently from New York (JFK) & Los Angeles (LAX). Economy (Light, Classic or Flextra) is an excellent deal but, with these affordable fares, go for the extra legroom in Premium. The Norse onboard experience is great. The flight attendants/stewards are friendly and helpful. Their planes are in excellent condition and, allegedly, the 787 Dreamliners are more energy-efficient with less emissions. Norse flies into Paris’ Charles de Galle (CDG) airport with easy-access to the RER B (train to the city center) & the TGV (fast train to other parts of the country).
French bee https://us.frenchbee.com – Another good, budget choice. Currently flies from New York (Newark, EWR), Los Angeles (LAX), San Francisco (SFO) & Miami (MIA) to Orly (ORY), Paris’ smaller, easier-to-navigate airport.

Paris: View Art in 7 Unexpected Places

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (Paris, France)
Paris is a city filled with art everywhere you turn, not only in its famous museums, but also in some of the most unexpected places:

1) IN A DEPARTMENT STORE
Galerie des Galeries - Les Galeries Lafayette
40 Blvd Haussmann; Tel: 01/42-82-81-98; www.galeriedesgaleries.com

GL, Au dela du vetement  (photo: Marc Domange)

9th arrondissement, Metro: Chaussée d'Antin
(Open: Tues-Sun, 11am-7pm; Free)
Shop till you drop, then proceed to the 1st floor of the Galeries Lafayette’s main building. Across from the designers’ section, you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find the Galerie des Galeries, an exhibition space that presents established and emerging talent. Four annual exhibits showcase French and international artists, highlighting the relationship between fashion, the visual arts, and design. 

2) IN A PARK

Parc de Belleville

Rue des Couronnes (enter at rue Piat); http://bit.ly/1VmMXU2; 20th arrondissement, Metro: Belleville or Pyrénées

Street Art (photo: J. Carnegie)

The Belleville neighborhood is a melting pot of cultures. In the park, at the top of a hill, is a lookout point decorated with wonderful street art, often the work of community projects. The park itself is beautiful, accessible from a staircase, then up winding pathways past vine-covered pergolas. It’s worth the climb for the street art and the spectacular views of Paris--yes, you can see the Eiffel Tower from here.

3) IN A CHIC HOTEL
Art District Gallery - Le Royal Monceau Hotel
41 Ave Hoche; Tel: 01/45-75-27-48; https://bit.ly/2vrgUxj   
8th arrondissement, Metro: Charles de Gaulle Étoile or Ternes

(Open: Tues-Sun, 11am-7pm; Free)
Art lives at this snazzy hotel, renovated by famed designer Philippe Starck. The Art District Gallery puts on about four annual exhibits of contemporary work by important photographers, visual artists, and designers--retrospectives and premieres. The hotel also has an impressive art bookstore, La Librairie des Arts, and a dedicated “art concierge” to help guests get the most out of the Paris art scene.

4) IN A FORMER WAREHOUSE
Lafayette Anticipations
9 Rue du Plâtre; Tel: 01/42-82-89-98; www.lafayetteanticipations.com
4th arrondissement, Metro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville
(Open: Wed-Sun, 11am-7pm; Free)

Julien Creuzet, In my hands
(photo: Pierre Antoine)

In the chic Marais district, the Fondation Galeries Lafayette had starchitect Rem Koolhaas/OMA transform a 19-century department store warehouse into a truly cool new contemporary art, performance and exhibition space for local and international work. The space also serves as an "arts incubator"--providing artists the room to work on new creations. In addition to viewing exhibits & performances, you can take a fascinating architectural tour of the building. Afterwards, hangout in the lobby atrium, have an ultra-healthy snack at the Pluto cafe, and check out the bookstore.

5) IN A WAY-COOL POOL
Molitor - Les Cabines d'Artistes
2 Avenue de la Porte Molitor (pool entrance), 16th arrondissement, Metro: Michel-ange Molitor or Porte d’Auteuil

artist: Logan Hicks

In 1929, the Piscines Molitor--two magnificent, art-deco-style public pools--were built (outdoor & indoor) surrounded by three floors of changing room cubicles. Sadly, the pools closed in 1989 and the abandoned location became a hub for graffiti artists. Happily (although not all Parisians are in agreement), the complex was restored and became a stylish, luxury hotel, Molitor, with a commitment to art. Thus, some 70 international street artists were invited to use the former changing cubicles (les cabines) as canvases, turning them into a unique gallery of contemporary urban art. If not a hotel guest, here are two ways to see Les Cabines d'Artistes: 1) Self-guided tour (free): Wednesdays from 6pm-7pm, reserve via the website. The Molitor’s artistic director, Sylvia Randazzo, will be on hand to answer any questions. 2) Guided tour (fee): On Saturday mornings, Sylvia will lead a small-group tour (in French); must reserve via the website.

6) IN THE STREET

Le M.U.R.
Corner of rue Oberkampf & rue Saint Maur; 11th arrondissement, Metro: Parmentier or Rue St-Maur; www.lemur.fr

Le M.U.R., Lady M (photo: H. Laxenaire)

Artist Jean Faucheur, founder of “The Wall” - Le M.U.R. (Modulable, Urbain, Réactif), came up with the concept of putting original works of art by contemporary, urban artists up on a wall on the rue Oberkampf in the 11th arrondissement. Every two weeks, the artwork changes. Since there are two great cafés, La Place Verte (105 rue Oberkampf), right in front of the wall, and the famous Café Charbon (109 rue Oberkampf), just behind it, you’ve got reason enough to stop by often to check out The Wall.

Les Frigos (photo: Mbzt/WikiCommons)

7) IN A NEIGHBORHOOD
Les Frigos
19 rue des Frigos; www.les-frigos.com; 13th arrondissement, Metro: Bibliothèque François Mitterrand
(Open: On Open House days or by appointment with one of the artists)

J-P Reti

Les Frigos (photo: Prissantenbär/WikiCommons)

This former industrial area, on the Seine in the 13th arrondissement, was transformed into a neighborhood that looks like The Jetsons live here. One of the few buildings to survive gentrification is Les Frigos (The Refrigerators), a former storage depot for fresh produce brought into Paris by train. Now, it provides studio space for some 120 eclectic creatives. You can visit the artists' studios on Portes Ouvertes (Open House) days, usually at the end of May. At other times, certain artists hold Open Studio events. You can also view each artist’s work on the website and contact them directly. The fascinating sculptor, Jean-Paul Reti, is the unofficial “mayor” of Les Frigos and, if he’s not busy working on his art, he’s happy to explain the background of the building to visitors.

4 Cool Places To Stay in Berlin, Germany

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (Berlin, Germany)

Due to an influx of creative types from all over the world, Berlin has become one of the hottest spots on the planet. The trendy neighborhoods shape-shift and change at a rapid pace. At the moment, these East Berlin districts--Kreuzberg and Neukölln, “Kreuzkölln,” Friedrichshain, and Mitte—are all the rage. And, some areas of West Berlin are coming back in vogue. Here are four cool places to stay in this hot, hip town:

East Berlin: The Epicenter of the Fashion Scene

The Weinmeister Berlin-Mitte

Weinmeisterstrasse 2

Tel: +49 030/755-6670; www.the-weinmeister.com

Metro: Weinmeisterstrasse, U-bahn

The Weinmeister, Berlin

Fashionistas, this is the definitive place to crash, right in the heart of the Mitte district, Berlin’s hippest fashion scene. The Weinmeister, part of the Chambers Group, has small, stylish rooms where every piece of furniture does double-duty: a clothes rack backs a headboard, a storage bin serves as a table, etc. There’s an iMac in every room and a lively scene in the lobby for drinks, snacks, or breakfast.

East Berlin: Down by the River Side

Michelberger Hotel

Warschauer Strasse 39/40

Tel: +49 302/977-8590; www.michelbergerhotel.com

Metro: Warshauer Strasse, U-bahn

Michelberger Hotel

A bunch of friends got together and said, “Let’s open a hotel!” The colorful and edgy Michelberger is the result. With stylishly-affordable rooms and a cool bar/cafe and restaurant, this is the “in” place to be in this all-the-rage neighborhood between Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg, right on the River Spree.

Juncker's Hotel

East Berlin: Off the Beaten Path

Juncker's Hotel Garni

Grünberger Strasse 21

Tel: +49 030/293-3550; www.junckershotel.de

Metro: Frankfuter Tor, U-bahn

For former hippies or anyone looking for a small, friendly place to stay, Juncker’s is a great spot with absolutely fabulous breakfasts. In the trendy Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg area, this unassuming little hotel has very clean, simple rooms and four apartments.

West Berlin: Meet Up with Musicians

Q! Hotel Berlin

Knesebeckstrasse 67

Tel: +49 030/810-0660; www.loock-hotels.com

Metro: Uhlandstrasse, U-bahn; Savignyplatz, S-bahn

Q! Hotel Berlin

Very popular with musicians, the Q! is located on a beautiful, little street in West Berlin, right off the famed Kurfürstendamm shopping avenue. The modish guest rooms, include studios and a penthouse. The futuristic, über-modern design by architectural firm Graft (who’ve worked on Brad Pitt's projects) makes you feel as if you’re staying on the moon.

Berlin Arrival: Almost every major airlines flies into Berlin: Berlin Brandenburg BER 

5 Artsy & Cool Day Treks from Paris

By Jacquelin Carnegie
In addition to all the wondrous things to see and do in Paris, there are also really interesting places to visit within a short Metro (subway) or RER (light rail) ride from the center of town.
MAGNIFICENT GROUNDS: MANSION, SCULPTURE GARDEN & PARK
Fondation de Coubertin

Coubertin Park (photo: JCarnegie)

Domaine de Coubertin, Saint-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse
www.coubertin.fr
(Open: June-Sept; Sat & Sun, 2pm-7pm. Entrance fee.)
This gorgeous place is only open to the public for a few months each year, so plan ahead. The stunning property was once the Coubertin estate. You can visit: a small museum (just a few exhibit rooms within the mansion) with a permanent collection and a changing exhibition each year; a lovely sculpture garden; and a magnificent sculpture park. The rest of the year, the Foundation is a training facility for apprentices in: Woodworking; Metal/Ironwork; Stonecutting, and Sculpting.
Dine/Do More: Le Chalet Café (3 Rue Ditte) is right across from the train station if you need a cup of coffee or a snack. Next store is La Giostra (5 Rue Ditte) an Italian restaurant. If you're feeling energetic, you can also walk or take a bus (#39.17 or #39.03) or a taxi into the pretty little town of Chevreuse for more options, plus a visit to the hilltop castle, Chateau de la Madeleine. You may like it there so much, you may want to stay overnight!
Getting There: From Paris, take RER (B) to the Gare de Saint-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse, about 20 minutes, then a 5-minute walk from the train station in the direction of Chevreuse.

BEAUTIFUL BUCOLIC SETTING: MANSION & GLORIOUS GROUNDS
Maison Caillebotte

Maison Caillebotte
(photo: Ville de Yerres)

Caillebotte, Portraits in the Countryside

8 Rue de Concy, Yerres
Tel: +33(0)1 80 37 20 61; www.proprietecaillebotte.com
(Open: Garden-Park, daily, all year. Free. Mansion, April-Oct, Tues-Sun, 2pm-6:30pm. Entrance fee.)
After a 20-year restoration project, the Maison Caillebotte, a 19-century mansion--surrounded by 25 acres of beautifully-landscaped, garden-park--is open to the public. This lovely spot is the former home of the cultured Caillebotte family. One son became a priest; the other--Gustave Caillebotte--became a talented Impressionist painter. Even if you've never heard of him, a visit here offers a charming glimpse into the lifestyle of an affluent French family in the late-1800s. The Maison Caillebotte is tastefully furnished, the English-style garden-park is splendid with several follies and a potager (kitchen garden). Weather permitting, you can picnic on the grounds, go boating from a river landing right on the property, and see art exhibits in the l'Orangerie and La Ferme Ornée. This is such a pleasant place to spend an afternoon--so close to Paris--you'll want to return again and again.
Dine/Do More: Café Gustave - There is a cafe/tea salon right on the Caillebotte property. Or, wander into the town of Yerres for more options. 

Getting There: From Paris' Gare de Lyon, take RER (D) to Yerres (direction Melun), about 20 minutes, then a 7-minute walk downhill or take the bus (line F).

A FAMOUS ARTIST SLEPT HERE
Jean Cocteau Maison

Cocteau's Chapel
(photo: Françoise Signeyrole)

15 rue du Lau, Milly-la-Forêt
Tel: +33(0)1 71 63 89 85; www.maisoncocteau.com
(Open: May-Nov, Thurs-Sun, 11am-6pm; Book online. Nov-May, Tues-Fri, By reservation, call &/or email. Fee.) 

Jean Cocteau was one of the most influential creative figures in the French avant-garde movement in the early 19th-century. He was a poet, writer, designer, playwright, artist, and filmmaker. While he grew up and lived in Paris, Cocteau bought this house in Milly-la-Forêt in 1947 as a refuge and lived here until his death in 1963. In the house, see several decorated rooms in his unique style as well as exhibits of his work and those by his illustrious friends. In the town, stop by the tiny Chapel of Saint-Blaise-des-Simples. It's decorated with stained-glass windows and frescos by Cocteau, illustrating medicinal plants that can be found in the chapel's herb garden. (Cocteau is buried here.)

Chapel interior
(photo: F. Signeyrole)

Dine/Do More: The ancient town of Milly-la-Forêt is absolutely lovely. Download a walking tour and wander around. (In French, but it's easy to follow the map.) It's worth visiting on a Thursday afternoon for the market in La Halle, a covered-wooden marketplace, that's been in operation since 1479. 

For lunch or an overnight stay, Hotel/Restaurant: Le Cygne (23 Place du Marché). 

Getting There: From Paris' Gare de Lyon, take RER (D) to Gare de Maisse (direction Malesherbes), about 25 minutes, then a 15-minute taxi ride to the Maison. Be sure to call a taxi in advance; it costs around 20€ each way, another reason to stay for longer than a day! (Taxis: 06 07 72 29 39; 06 77 42 01 86; 06 80 40 50 58.)

FAMOUS FRENCH FABRIC
Musée de la Toile de Jouy
Chateau de l’Eglantine, 54 rue Charles de Gaulle, Jouy-en-Josas
Tel: +33(0)1 39 56 48 64; www.museedelatoiledejouy.fr
(Open: Tues-Sun. Entrance fee, for guided tour, book online.)

Toile de Jouy

This museum is a fascinating place devoted to the history of the iconic French fabric Toile de Jouy, first manufactured here in 1760. The printed-cotton fabric, made popular by French royalty, was used for both clothing and home decorating. In Jouy-en-Josas, engravers created designs for the famous Toile de Jouy cloth, known for bucolic, country scenes--printed in either red, blue or black on a cream-colored background. Learn all about it on an excellent guided tour (in French).

Toile de Jouy

Dine/Do More: The Jouy-en-Josas tourism office has information on walking tours, dining, and accommodations (https://bit.ly/2ZzLykY).
Getting There: From Paris' Gare Austerliz, take RER (C) to Petit Jouy-Les Loges (direction Versailles Chantiers), about an hour. The museum is a short walk from the train station.

CENTURIES OF CERAMICS
Sèvres - Cité de la Céramique
2 Place de la Manufacture, Sèvres
Tel: +33(0)1 46 29 38 18; www.sevresciteceramique.fr
(Open: Wed-Mon, 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm, Sat-Sun, 10am-6pm. Entrance fee, can book online.)

17-Century Faience, France 

Since 1740, Sèvres has been considered one of the finest porcelain manufacturers in the world. If you love ceramics, plan to spend hours in its incredible museum, Musée National de Céramique, showcasing the history of ceramics. The collection includes pieces from every time period--antiquity to modern, in every material--pottery, earthenware, stoneware, faience, porcelain, etc., and from all the places known for producing quality ceramics. You'll see Islamic creations, Greek vases, Delft tiles, Chinese and Japanese designs, pieces of Art Nouveau and Art Deco as well as works by contemporary artists.

Gustavo Perez, 2010

Dine/Do More: The town of Sèvres, considered a suburb, is right across the river from Paris. Sèvres' Cité de la Céramique, an enclave of 25 historic buildings, is on the edge of the Parc de Saint Cloud (where Louis XIV's brother lived). If you have any energy left after your museum visit, stroll through this magnificent park. Pack a picnic or dine at any of the nearby, local restaurants.
Getting There: Metro: #9 to Pont de Sèvres in Paris, about 20 minutes. Get off in the front of the train (sortie n°2), then walk across a small bridge to Sèvres and the museum, about 10 minutes. 
Where To Stay: To get the most out of Paris, stay in a variety of places all around town. Editor's Note: There are also 5 other lovely, artsy places to visit about an hour by train from Paris.