Monday, May 18, 2026

ART BEAT: Visit 5 FABULOUS ART FOUNDATIONS in New York City

The Brant Foundation, Basquiat exhibit (photo: Tom Powel imaging)

By Jacquelin Carnegie
The Brant Foundation
In New York City, there are many great ways to have culturally-inspiring experiences and lots of wonderful places to see incredible art. While you may be familiar with all the major museums, there are also several, really special art foundations you might not have heard about, where the spaces they’re housed in are often as interesting as the art: 
Downtown
The Brant Foundation
421 East 6th St, btw 1st Ave - Ave A; brantfoundation.org (Open: Wed-Sun; Fee or Free Admission depending on exhibit)
Successful businessman and philanthropist Peter Brant has many eclectic interests, but his main passion is contemporary art. He’s been an avid collector since his college days when his first acquisitions included two Andy Warhols and a Franz Kline! Lucky for us, Brant has put his impressive collection on display, first in Greenwich, Connecticut and now in a stunning new location in New York City. The building, a former ConEd substation, has been redesigned as an exhibit space which is as knockout as the artwork on display. [Enjoy a virtual tour of Brant’s extensive Jean-Michel Basquiat collection.] 

Judd Foundation
101 Spring St, www.juddfoundation.org; Tel: 212/219-2747 (Open: Tues-Sat; Admission Fee; Guided tours only, book in advance) 
Judd bedroom, Dan Flavin light sculpture
(photo: James Ewing; Courtesy Judd Foundation)
You don’t have to be a fan of Donald Judd’s artwork to appreciate a visit to his former home and studio in Manhattan's SoHo district. First, the beautifully-restored, 19th-century, cast-iron building is one of the few remaining in the neighborhood. Next, Judd designed and built many of the everyday items in the home such as dining tables, chairs, desks, etc. And, the space is filled with works by some of Judd’s favorite artists such as Dan Flavin and Frank Stella. Judd bought the building in 1968; a visit provides a fascinating glimpse into the life of a successful, modern artist.

Resnick-Passlof Foundation
The Milton Resnick & Pat Passlof Foundation
87 Eldridge St; resnickpasslof.org; Tel: 646/559-2513 (Open: Thurs-Sat, 11am-6pm; Free Admission; Closed in Aug.)
Milton Resnick and Pat Passlof were Abstract Expressionist painters who lived and worked on Manhattan’s Lower East Side in a building that was once a synagogue. Since their passing, the space has been renovated into a showplace for their signature paintings as well as for exhibits of work by other Abstract Expressionist artists. The Foundation also presents lectures, poetry readings, and musical programs in this magnificent space.

Chelsea
The FLAG Art Foundation
545 West 25th St, 9th Fl, btw 10th-11th Ave; http://flagartfoundation.org; Tel: 212/206-0220 (Open: Wed-Sat, 11am-5pm; Free Admission)
Nicolas Party: Pastel, 2021, FLAG 
(photo: Steven Probert)

Financier, philanthropist, collector, and art patron Glenn Fuhrman launched The FLAG Art Foundation as a non-profit, exhibit space to encourage the appreciation of contemporary art. The marvelous, imaginative exhibits are meant to attract a diverse audience. FLAG generally presents four to six exhibits a year of both established and emerging artists. The Foundation also invites a creative group of individuals—artists, athletes, writers, historians, fashion designers, museum directors--to guest curate these fab exhibits.

Hill Art Foundation
239 Tenth Ave, at 24th St, 3rd Fl, https://hillartfoundation.org
(
Open: Tues-Sat, 11am-5pm; Free Admission)
Hill Art Foundation
For forty years, former financier J. Tomilson Hill and his wife have been passionate art collectors. The Hill Art Foundation is a lovely way for them to share their collection with the public: allowing visitors to see how they think about art as well as how they juxtapose and display pieces. While the Foundation reflects the Hills’ personal taste, it’s also about sharing—encouraging the viewer to reflect on and engage with the pieces to find new interpretations of the works on view. The galley space itself is stunning, on the 3rd & 4th floors of the Getty building designed by famed architect Peter Marino.

Tuesday, May 5, 2026

Day Trips in the Tri-State Area: 10+ Sensational Staycations

By Jacquelin Carnegie
J.O. Davidson, The Hudson River from the Tappan Zee, 1871
(Courtesy Hudson River Museum)
If you've been starved for culture and nature, but don't want to wander too far from home, there are some lovely, small museums and gardens in the tri-state area worth visiting. Here are some suggestions for delightful day trips: 

CULTURAL & CULINARY OUTING
GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT
Only a 50-minute train ride from New York City, the coastal Connecticut town of Greenwich is one of the oldest, full of history, culture, and wealthy people. Spend a lovely day visiting the museum, strolling through town and relaxing by the waterside.
BRUCE MUSEUM
1 Museum Dr, Greenwich, CT; Tel: 203-869-0376; 
brucemuseum.org 
Hassam, The Mill Pond, 1902
(Courtesy Bruce Museum)

(Open: Tues-Sun, Fee but Free on Tuesdays)
Situated at the top of a hill, in a beautiful park setting, the Bruce Museum highlights both art and the natural sciences in several annual, changing exhibits. The museum's permanent collection includes impressive natural history specimens and artwork from the Cos Cob School of American Impressionists. Originally built as a private home in 1853, then Robert Moffat Bruce, a wealthy textile merchant, deeded it to the Town on Greenwich in 1908. Now, a modern expansion provides more space for the museum's exhibits & educational programs.
Other Cultural Activities:
Roger Sherman Baldwin Park - Chill out at this lovely little harborside park. Admire the sculpture by Lila Katzen, Priapos, the Greek god of fertility, sometimes referred to as the god of the harbor.
Visit landmarks from the 1700s:
Bush-Holley House (Greenwich Historical Society)
Putnam Cottage–Knapp Tavern Museum (George Washington dined here during the Revolution) & enjoy some lovely music: Greenwich Symphony Orchestra.
Dine: There are over 20 eateries to choose from on Greenwich Avenue, the town's main drag. Stroll along to find one that appeals to your tastes. Then, head to L'Escale (500 Steamboat Rd; Tel: 203-661-4600) f
or a fancy French meal or just a drink by the waterside.
Priapos, Greenwich waterfront 
Getting There: Dive or from New York (Grand Central Station), take a Metro North train (New Haven line) to Greenwich. The Bruce Museum & Greenwich Avenue are a 5-minute walk from the station. Travel time: About an hour.

ART & NATURE ON VIEW
YONKERS, NEW YORK
Just a 25-minute train ride from midtown Manhattan, Yonkers overlooks the Hudson River. While the downtown area could use a good spruce-up, there are other pretty places to explore. Visit the museum, stroll through the gardens' grounds, then have lunch by the waterfront.
HUDSON RIVER MUSEUM
511 Warburton Ave, Yonkers, NY; Tel: 914-963-4550; www.hrm.org 
Fuechsel, Hudson River Scene, 1875
(Courtesy Hudson River Museum)

(Open: Wed-Sun, Fee but Free 1st Fridays)
This lovely museum has an impressive collection of 19th-century, Hudson River School paintings and also shows contemporary art in changing exhibits in its modern, main building. On the property, there's also the historic Glenview home, built in 1877, showcasing Gilded Age period rooms, and a state-of-the-art Planetarium.
UNTERMYER PARK & GARDENS
945 North Broadway, Yonkers NY; www.untermyergardens.org
(Open: Daily, 9am-7pm; Free)

These 43 acres of gardens, maintained by a handful of dedicated gardeners and horticulturists, have been preserved and restored from the former 150-acre Samuel Untermyer estate, once tended to by 60 gardeners. In 1916, Untermyer hired Beaux Arts architect Welles Bosworth to design the gardens overlooking the Hudson River. But after his death, the property fell into disrepair. Now owned by the City of Yonkers, the garden-park is being brought back to its former glory by the Conservancy. While many areas have been lovingly restored
, others are still a work-in-progress.
(Courtesy Untermyer Gardens Conservancy)
Other Cultural Activities
Philipse Manor Hall (29 Warburton Ave) - Built in the 1600s, the manor house is one of the oldest historic sites in the U.S. Now, a museum of history, art, and architecture. 
Sherwood House Museum (340 Tuckahoe Rd) - Built in 1740, it's the oldest Colonial farmhouse in Yonkers. 
TV series: "Show Me a Hero" (HBO) - A dark, yet fascinating take on Yonkers' history; worth watching.
Dine: Have a meal with the view of the Hudson in downtown Yonkers. TaqueRio Taco Bar (1 Van Der Donck St) is right on the waterfront.
Getting There: Dive or from New York (Grand Central Station), take a Metro North train (Hudson line) to Yonkers or Glenwood (for the museum). Travel time: About 25 minutes.

SCULPTURE/SPLENDOR IN THE GRASS - New York & New Jersey
If you love sculpture and the great outdoors, check out these
(Courtesy StormKing)
lovely places that are easy to get to: Governors Island right in NYC, StormKing in Mountainville, New York & Grounds For Sculpture in Hamilton, New Jersey: http://bit.ly/1HzYVHC

GLORIOUS CITY GARDENS
These wonderful garden spaces are just a subway ride away:
BROOKLYN BOTANICAL GARDENS - Brooklyn, New York
900 Washington Ave; www.bbg.org
(Open: Tues-Sun, Fee but Pay-What-You-Wish on winter weekdays)
The Japanese Hill-and-Pond Garden is a lovely feature of this garden. Imagine you’re in Japan as you stroll the winding paths by a pond, waterfall, picturesque bridges, and a traditional Shinto shrine. The garden is especially delightful during cherry blossom season (April-May).
The Brooklyn Museum of Art (200 Eastern Pkwy; www.brooklynmuseum.org) is right near by and also worth visiting.
Japanese Garden
(Courtesy Brooklyn Botanical Gardens)


NEW YORK BOTANICAL GARDEN - Bronx, New York
2900 Southern Blvd; www.nybg.org
(Open: Tues-Sun, Fee but Free on Wed for NYC residents)
The garden's beautiful grounds are a nice way to escape your apartment without leaving the city. From late April to early May some 50,000 tulips are in bloom here.
WAVE HILL - Bronx, NY
4900 Independence Ave; www.wavehill.org 
(Open: Tues-Sun, Fee but Free on Thursdays)
Wave Hill's lovely, 28-acre public garden overlooks the Hudson River and the Palisades. It's a great place to sit, read a book, have a picnic, and contemplate life. There's also a cafe & cultural center.

ARMCHAIR TRAVELING
THE ARTSY VOYAGER: 101 ARTSY & COOL THINGS TO DO IN PARIS
Read my Paris guide book, so you'll be ready to go as soon as you have some vacation time! (Available on Amazon &/or Apple Books.)

Friday, May 1, 2026

New York: THEATER BUZZ – Spring 2026

By Jacquelin Carnegie
BAM and En Garde Arts are always presenting interesting work, so if you sadly miss these two shows, get on their mailing lists &/or follow their social media.
Friendly Reminder: Off-Broadway shows have limited runs, so get tickets right away.
MOBY DICK (photo: Lucie Jansch)
OFF-BROADWAY
MOBY DICK
(BAM, 30 Lafayette Ave, Brooklyn, NY; closed 5/3/26)
From the Düsseldorfer Schauspielhaus theater
Direction, Design & Lighting by Robert Wilson; Music by Anna Calvi. In German & English with supertitles.

Those who already love the work of avant-garde director Robert Wilson will be pleased, and the uninitiated are in for a treat. Once again, Wilson’s signature, striking visual style is on display in MOBY DICK, considered his last, realized production before his death in 2025.
Here, the essence of Herman Melville’s epic, 1851 novel Moby-Dick is revealed in a series of Wilson-style tableau vivant. The accompanying music and songs by British, singer-songwriter Anna Calvi beautifully express the melancholia of this human tragedy and whale tale.
That this piece is performed mostly in German is also oddly fitting as the late-18th-century German movement Sturm und Drang ("Storm and Stress"), characterized by dramatic, often tragic tales exploring inner turmoil, perfectly captures the fundamental nature of Moby-Dick. This combined with Wilson’s palette of haunting visual beauty, plus a new character “The Boy” adds some comic relief to the fate of the doomed whalers.
This production premiered at Germany’s Düsseldorfer Schauspielhaus, where Wilson created several other seminal works. It’s touching that that cast, including favorite performers Christopher Nell & Rosa Enskat, are part of this U.S. premiere of MOBY DICK here at the Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM) which serves as a posthumous tribute.
Unfortunately, the show is up for just a few days – Run to Brooklyn, now!

73 SECONDS
73 SECONDS (photo: David Gray)

(The Lower Eastside Girls Club Planetarium, 402 E 8th St, NY; until May 18, 2026)
Presented by En Garde Arts; Directed & Co-Developed by Aya Ogawa; Created, Written & Performed by Jared Mezzocchi.

For years, En Garde Arts has been producing way-cool, site-specific work. This latest piece is no exception—staged in a little planetarium on the Lower East Side that who-knew-existed. The show is a sort of cosmic coming-of-age tale: a young man finds out his unassuming, math-teacher mom shoulda-coulda-woulda been an astronaut. He and we want to know more, but by the time he gets around to quizzing her about the time she spent at NASA, she’s already lost in space. 73 SECONDS proves it’s always interesting to explore the many mysteries of the cosmos and family life.

Monday, April 20, 2026

Discover France’s La Vendée Region, Part 3: Noirmoutier Island - 11 Great Reasons To Visit

By Jacquelin Carnegie
Noirmoutier Island (photo: @lenamrzl)
La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western coast. It’s known for its’ lovely, beach towns such as Les Sables-d'Olonne and its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. Then, there’s Noirmoutier—an island that’s about as idyllic as beach life could get: totally peaceful and extremely picturesque. The French and other Europeans like to vacation here, and you will too. There’s great food, beautiful beaches, and some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France! 
Great Reasons To Visit: Sun, Sand, Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes!
Apart from by boat, for centuries, the only way to reach Noirmoutier Island was via the Passage du Gois, a tidal causeway only accessible at low tide. Finally, in 1971, a bridge was built making this vacation paradise more accessible. The best times to visit: April, May & June (to avoid the summer crowds) and September (if the weather is good).
1) Get Ready To Unwind: Complete Serenity
Maybe it’s the light or the microclimate (mild winters and temperate summers), but the moment you arrive, you relax. You’ll be charmed by the pretty surroundings, the lovely villages, the sunny weather, the crystal-blue water, the nice beaches, the simple, carefree lifestyle, the traditional white houses with blue shutters, the scent of mimosas…the food!
2) Explore The Island
It’s confusing, so just to be clear, the island is: l'Île de Noirmoutier. The main town is: Noirmoutier-en-l'île -- filled with cute, little shops, lots of great restaurants, and several historic sites.
Noirmoutier-en-ile (photo: @Trendz)
Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’île &/or Rue de Polder, Barbâtre) - First, stop at the tourism office for some itinerary suggestions & to pick up a map. Then, drive around or, since the island is relatively flat, go exploring by bike.
Visit the Villages & Neighborhoods: Barbâtre, la Guérinière, l'Épine, l'Herbaudière & Noirmoutier-en-l'île. L'Herbaudière Port: A lively fishing port with a marina, souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. Bois de la Chaise: An area of lovely villas and chalets surrounded by picturesque pines, mimosa & oak trees. See the Windmills – Since the 7th century, there have been windmills on the island. Of the 32 erected during the 19th century, 23 remain; several have been turned into unique, vacation homes.
3) Relax at The Beach
Plage des Dames (photo: J.Carnegie)

Noirmoutier is an island in the Bay of Biscay, so there are lovely beaches everywhere you turn. Some of the most popular: Plage des Dames, Plage des Sableaux, Anse Rouge & La Madeleine. Go to several and see which ones you like best!
4) Get A Refreshing Workout – Sports Galore
There are lots of water sports to enjoy: kitesurfing, paddleboarding, kayaking, water skiing, scuba diving, sailing, etc.
In addition to biking around the island, there are beautiful places to stroll and hike: along the beaches, through the salt marshes, and on lovely trails in the woods: Forêt de la Frandière in Barbâtre, Bois des Eloux in L'Epine & Bois de la Chaise in Noirmoutier. Plus: Horseback riding, tennis, fishing, etc.
5) Discover The Island’s Food Heritage: Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes
Noirmoutier’s year-round inhabitants are people who’ve lived off the land & sea for generations: mostly fisherman, potato farmers, and salt harvesters.
Salt: In the 7th century, Benedictine monks began transforming the island’s wetlands into salterns--basins where salt is cultivated. Today, there are about 100 salt harvesters (saunier) on the island, using traditional methods to harvest the “white gold” Fleur de sel.
Noirmoutier Potatoes (photo: Julien Gazeau)
Seafood: More than 100 fishing boats unload their catches here daily, including sole, sea bass, striped mullet, lobsters, etc. Locals also like to dig for clams & shrimp and harvest oysters & the delectable bouchot mussels.
Potatoes: Noirmoutier is famous for its’ potatoes--the Sirtema, the Lady Cristl, the Charlotte, but especially the Bonnotte. Planted by hand, grown in sandy soil, and fertilized with seaweed, which gives them their unique flavor.
Les Saveurs de l'ile de Noirmoutier - You can find these and other specialties such as cookies & pastries at little shops and at weekly “Farmers’ Markets” throughout the island. All local products are certified; look for the label Saveurs de l’île de Noirmoutier (Flavors of Noirmoutier Island).
6) Enjoy Some of The Most Delicious Meals You’ll Ever Eat
The chefs here benefit from the island’s bounty to create amazing dishes. Each restaurant offers its own take on Noirmoutier's cuisine. There are many to choose from; start with these: 
Le 11 (11 Quai Cassard, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 11 11; https://le11denoirmoutier.com) - Right on the waterfront, a casual, very-friendly spot with tasty meals; try their special: Fish & Chips.
Bouchot Mussels (photo; @Trendz)

Le P’tit Noirmout (10 Rue du Marché, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 79 52; https://www.le-ptit-noirmout.com) - Good food in a lively, fun atmosphere.
Le Petit Bouchot (3 Rue Saint-Louis, Noirmoutier-en-l'île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 32 56; https://www.restaurant-noirmoutier.com) - Delicious meals in a very staid, traditional setting.
La Potinière (27 Ave Georges Clemenceau, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 09 61; https://potinierenoirmoutier.com) – A very-modern fish & seafood place, right at the beach, Plage des Dames in Bois de la Chaise.
La Marine*** (5 Rue Marie Lemonnier, L'Herbaudière, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 23 09; https://www.alexandrecouillon.com) - Michelin 3-star restaurant, booked a year in advance. Chef Alexandre Couillon uses only the freshest, local ingredients: seafood right from the port across the street and herbs & vegetables from his own “kitchen garden.” His wife Céline also runs the more-casual, bistro next door La Table d'Elise. Can’t get into either, get some tasty goodies at their little pastry/grocery shop, Le Petit Couillon.
7) Go on a Guided Tour
Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’ile; Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 80 71) - The Tourism Office offers several interesting Tours (only in French), but some you could enjoy anyway such as a boating excursion. It’s worth checking out what they have to offer. In addition…
Marais Salants (photo: Simon Bourcier)
Visite des Marais Salants – Visit a salt basin to see how the Fleur de sel is harvested. (Marais de Bonne Pogne: May-Sept, tour in English.)
Visite de la Criée à L'Herbaudière Port – Tour the port and the “criée” (fish auction market) where all the fishing boats unload their daily catch. (Tour in French only.) 
8) Take Part In Unique Island Activities
La Fête de la Bonnotte (May) – On the 1st Saturday in May, Noirmoutier’s illustrious Bonnotte potato is feted with an elaborate, communal meal followed by a concert. In the morning, you can go into the fields to pick your own potatoes.
Les Foulées du Gois (June) – Athletes race across the Passage du Gois against the rising tide. Or, just consult the tide schedule and walk or bike across any time at your leisure.
9) Learn More About The Island’s Historic Heritage
Noirmoutier-en-l'île has several historic sites to visit:
Windmill house (photo: J.Carnegie)

Château de Noirmoutier (Place d'Armes) – This 12th century castle is now a museum. Climb to the top for a great panoramic view.
Hôtel Jacobsen (Rue Saint Louis) – Once the home of the influential Jacobsen family, it’s now a maritime-history museum.
Église Saint-Philbert (2 rue du Cheminet) – This 11th century church was built on the grounds of the former Benedictine Abbey, founded in 674 by the monk Saint-Philbert.
10) Be Entertained
Les Salorges (22 Quai Jean Bart, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île) - At this performance center, even if you don’t speak French, there are lots of dance & concert programs to enjoy as well as many programs for kids.
Several cafés in the various villages have live music in the evenings and/or go to the movies (always a few English-language films): Le Mimosa (73 Ave Joseph Pineau, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île). 
11) Be Welcomed Like Family
The people in all the shops, restaurants, and guesthouses are very welcoming—especially if you arrive off-season, in the spring or fall, as I’m recommending.
Where To Stay
: There’s everything from hotels to Maison d'hôtes (guesthouses) to camping grounds and rental homes. Here’s a lovely place to start: 
The Corner

The Corner - Maison d'hôtes (2 rue du Général Leclerc, Noirmoutier-en-l’île;
Tel: +33 (0)6 09 86 17 79; https://www.thecorner-no.fr
) - When traveling to some place you’ve never been before, it’s nice to be welcomed with open arms. The Corner, is owned by an American, Diane, and her French-chef husband, Raphael. It’s like staying with family you just never met before. Located in the center of lovely Noirmoutier-en-l’île, right by all the cute little shops, the house dates from 1814 and was the home of the former mayor. Completely renovated, today there are 5 beautifully-decorated guest rooms—perfect for romantic getaways. And, in the adjoining property, there are larger rooms great for families or groups of friends traveling together. The amount of thought and attention to detail that has gone into decorating & outfitting each guest room is truly amazing. That, plus Chef Raphael’s delicious meals makes The Corner the perfect place to start your vacation on Noirmoutier Island.
Getting Around: You can rent a car or a bike or hop on the little
Passage de Gois (photo: @alamoureux)
tourist trainNoirmout'Train
Getting There: From Paris: SNCF Train to Nantes with a connecting bus, Aléop coach #13 (2hrs & 1.5hrs). Airport: Nantes Atlantique (then an hour drive to the island). Or, consult the tide schedule and drive, bike or walk across the Passage du Gois!

Tuesday, April 7, 2026

Discover France’s La Vendée Region: Part I: Les Sables-d'Olonne - A Seaside Haven for Lovers of Sailing, Seafood & Sandy Beaches!

By Jacquelin Carnegie
Les Sables (photo: Alexandre Lamoureu)


La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western, Atlantic coast (below Nantes and above La Rochelle). While La Vendée is not as well-known to Americans as Provence or Normandy, it's a place where the French and other Europeans like to vacation. It's known for its long coastline, sandy beaches &Alex Noirmoutier Island as well as its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. There’s great food, plus plenty to see and do. Also, La Vendée has some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France!
SO MUCH TO “SEA” - LES SABLES-D'OLONNE: VILLE BALNEAIRE
Along La Vendée’s coastline, called France’s Côte de Lumière (Coast of Light), there are several lovely villes balnéaires (beach towns). Les Sables-d'Olonne is one of the most popular with so much to offer:
10+ UNIQUE THINGS TO DO IN SABLES-D'OLONNE
For centuries, Les Sables-d'Olonne has been home to sailors, seafarers, and fishermen. Today, these old-world traditions continue in a town enhanced by modern-day comforts and lots of enjoyable activities.
Raphael Toussaint "La Villa Blanche, Les Sables d'Olonne"

Explore the Town
- Go For A Promenade: Start your visit with a walk on Le Remblai, the oceanfront promenade, lined with restaurants, cafes, and shops.
- Stroll Through The Neighborhoods: This is a very walkable town with lots to see along the way. The narrow streets are lined with different types of houses from modest fishermen’s homes to fancy beach villas. La Chaume is the oldest section of town, still inhabited by fishermen. Les Sables' historic Le Passage district has old shipowners' houses and one of the narrowest streets in the world, Rue de l'Enfer. In the L'île Penotte neighborhood, local artist Danièle Arnaud Aubin has covered the walls with delightful, seashell mosaic murals.
- Check Out The Shopping: In the Centre-Ville (Town Center) around the
Notre Dame de Bon Port, one of Les Sables’ oldest churches from 1646, classified as a monument historique, there are “rues piétonnes” (pedestrian streets) lined with lovely boutiques: Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, Rue des Halles & Rue Jean Moulin. Nearby, 
feast on a vast array of local produce 
Marché des Halles Centrales (photo: S. Bourcier)
in the Marché des Halles Centrales, a stunning, cast-iron & glass covered, food market, designed by local architect Charles Smolski in 1890.
Visites Guidées (Guided Tours in French & English): You can explore all these places on your own or go on a tour organized by Les Sables-d’Olonne Tourism Office (Tel: +33 2 51 96 85 85)

Take Advantage of All the Options
- Do Some Sunbathing: On the Grande Plage, the town beach, or go further up the coast to the magnificent Plage de Paracou, Plage d’Aubraie & Plage de Granges, where there’s a surf school.
Plage d’Aubraie (photo: J.Carnegie)

- Enjoy All The Culture: Go to the Musée de l'Abbaye Sainte-Croix (MASC) – a wonderful modern & contemporary art collection. For WWII history buffs, there’s the Musée Blockhaus Hôpital – a restored, German hospital bunker from 1943. Seashell collectors will lose their mind in the fabulous Musée du Coquillage. Plus, attend concerts and all-manner of events & happenings in season. This is a French, seaside town so, of course, there’s a casino; place your bets at the Casino des Atlantes or the Casino JOA Les Pins.
- Get Some Exercise: In addition to beachcombing, hiking and biking are popular activities here along with all the usual offerings: golf, tennis, swimming, etc.
- Fun for the Kids: There’s a zoo and an aquarium and a million other great activities for children.

Experience The Best: Sailing, Seafood & Salt
- Sail Away: Whether a novice or an experienced sailor, Les Sables’s Port Olona marina is the spot for you. The Sports Nautiques Sablais offers sailing for every level and at the Institut Sports Océan indulge in any number of nautical activities--sailing, surfing, 
windsurfing, kayaking, etc. 
(photo: Vendée Globe)
Vendée Globe: This is of special interest to sailing enthusiasts. The Vendée Globe is a prestigious, solo, unassisted, around-the-world, non-stop yacht race for the top sailors in the world. It takes place every four years (the 11th edition will be in 2028). The race starts & finishes in Les Sables-d'Olonne. There are usually around 40 international, world-class competitors. Start planning if you'd like to attend the next one as spectator or sailor! Get a ring-side seat in the Vendée Globe Village, this special area is set up on the Port Olona esplanade. There are also several “Hospitality Package” offerings.
- Feast On Sensational Seafood: Les Sables-d'Olonne’s Port de Pêche is one of France’s main fishing ports with catch such as sole, sea bass, hake, cuttlefish, tuna fish, crustaceans…and, a Vendéen specialty: sardines. This tasty, fresh-from-the-ocean seafood can be enjoyed at restaurants throughout town.
- Learn About “White Gold”: The Salt Of The Sea: In medieval times, Olonne salt was highly-prized and it’s still considered “white gold.” Today, you can visit the salt marshes--which look like a beautiful, tranquil nature sanctuary—on your own or on a tour (in French only). Salt forms when sea water, brought into the marsh basins, evaporates due to the sun & wind. Fine salt (fleur de sel) crystallizes on the surface of the basins and coarse salt on the bottom. By springtime, the salt is ready to be harvested and you can watch a demonstration.

Dine In Style: At these restaurants, the fish is so fresh it’s as if it leapt from the ocean onto your plate:
(photo: StudioBCarre)

Le Poisson Rouge (20 Quai Guiné) – Delicious dining.
Restaurant Le Port (24 Quai George V) – The freshest seafood & friendliest service.
La Suite SVP (20 Bd Roosevelt) - Nouvelle cuisine by chef Mélanie Sire.
La Pendule (67 Promenade Georges Clemenceau) – Crêperie right on Le Remblai.
Where To Stay: There is every kind of accommodation: hotels, bed & breakfasts, vacation rentals, etc. Hotel Coeur Marin (8 Bd Franklin Roosevelt) – A pleasant, conveniently-located option with a friendly staff.
Getting There: By train: TGV, Paris - Les Sables d'Olonne (about 3½ hrs).
By plane: Nantes-Atlantique airport or La Rochelle/Ile de Ré airport (1½ hrs).

Monday, March 23, 2026

10 Artsy & Cool Reasons To Visit Cork City, Ireland

By Jacquelin Carnegie
Cork City (photo: George Kabus)
Everything you’ve ever heard about Ireland is true: The hills are green, the Guinness is flowing, the wind is ever at your back. The pubs are filled with colorful characters and traditional music. You could go anywhere in Ireland and have a great time, but County Cork, on the south-western coast, is a wonderful place to start.

CORK CITY: START WITH A STROLL
Cork City is the second largest after Dublin. Set along the River Lee, its’ picturesque charm is inviting. Like the rest of Ireland, it’s a very, pretty place with super-friendly people, and it’s also really easy to get around. So, start with a stroll through the center of town:
Cork City (photo: ©Fáilte Ireland)

St. Patrick's Street - This long and winding road has been Cork's main shopping drag (“Pana” in local slang) since the 18th century with fine shops, trendy brands, and practical places like banks and cell phone shops. At the end, you might want to pop into the popular, upmarket department store Brown Thomas
Exploring Cork City Is Easy: Walks - You can download the Cork App; Follow Cork City Walks curated walking tours; Create your own self-guided walks; or take a Free Cork Walking TourBike – Do a bikeshare ride that comes with an App & a 3-day pass. Bus – Get a Leap Card for public buses. 

PUB LIFE
One of the great joys of a trip to Ireland is hanging out in terrific pubs and Cork City has its fair share. In addition to the Guinness, enjoy a selection of local brews, the “craic”--great company and lively conversation, and “trad”—traditional Irish music. 
Sin É 
Pubs: Check out the Cork Heritage Pub Trail. This should be your first stop:
Sin É Pub (8 Coburg St) - This place is renowned for its’ welcoming atmosphere and great trad music. I
n Irish, Sin É means “That’s it” referring to the funeral parlor next door.
Some other worthy pubs to try, known for their brews & music nights:
The Gables (31-32 Douglas St); Clancy’s (15-16 Princes St); Charlie’s (2 Union Quay) & An Spailpín Fánach (28 South Main St). 
Breweries & Distilleries:
Rising Sons Brewery (Cornmarket St) - Try some craft beers or craft gin at this micro-brewery/sports bar, with a traditional Irish pub atmosphere. You can also book a Brewery Tour & Beer Tasting experience.
Franciscan Well

Franciscan Well Brewery (14 No. Mall) - Take a Tastings Tour at this brewpub, known for its’ delicious craft beers, on the site of a former, medieval monastery. Then, nosh on a wood-fired pizza in the beer garden.
Rebel City Distillery (Marina Commercial Park, Centre Park Rd) - Check out this newly-opened distillery housed in the renovated, former Ford car factory. Take a Distillery Tour to see how a range of spirits are crafted & distilled, then bottled on-site.

CORK’S FOODIE SCENE
Cork is known for gourmet food and Irish sports—an interesting combo! Take a cooking course at Ballymaloe, one of the top “cookery” schools, with a side trip to lovely Kinsale, the “gourmet capital.” And, do whiskey tastings at the world-renowned Jameson Distillery in Midleton. In Cork City:
English Market (photo: Chris Hill)
English Market (Princes Street) - Created in 1788, it’s the oldest market of its kind in Europe where locals shop for freshly-caught seafood, just-butchered meats, local cheeses, breads, and fresh fruits & veggies, etc. Grab a coffee and sample traditional-yet-innovative, homemade fare at the Farmgate Café, or at any one of the many stalls selling freshly-prepared meals and snacks.
Marina Market (Centre Park Rd) - This is more of a Food Court than a market per se with vendors offering an eclectic mix of international favorites such as Mexican burritos, Japanese sushi, and Irish Prátaí (potatoes). Craft & Farmers’ Market on the weekends.
Cork Butter Museum (O’Connell Square) - Now you know: In the 19th century, Cork was the largest exporter of butter in the world! The exhibits illuminate Cork’s dairy history at the center of Europe's important butter trade.

BE A SPORT
Hurling
(photo: Inpho/Oisín Keniry)

The Irish have a passion for sports. In Cork, experience a Rugby match and other uniquely Irish sports such as Hurling or Gaelic football. Then, go to the Races—horses (Cork Racecourse Mallow) and/or dogs (Curraheen Park Greyhound Stadium).

A TOWN STEEPED IN HISTORY
Nano Nagle Place (Douglas St) - In this beautifully-restored complex of historic buildings, learn all about the 18th-century nun, Nano Nagle, who founded: seven schools for poor children in Cork, an almshouse for women, and the order of Presentation Sisters to carry on her work. The interactive exhibits in the museum depict the life of impoverished Catholics under British rule and Nano Nagle tireless efforts to help the disadvantaged. While this might sound a bit grim, it’s fascinating history and the site is just beautiful, with walled gardens and the tasty Good Day Deli café serving local, seasonal, organic offerings. 
Nano Nagle Place
St. Fin Barre's Cathedral (Bishop St) - Named after Cork's patron saint, St. Finbarr, the Cathedral was built in the 1870s and is a beautiful example of Gothic Revival-style architecture with stunning, stained-glass windows.

ARTS & CULTURE
Crawford Art Gallery (Emmet Place) - The museum's collection, with over 3,000 works, ranges from 18th-century Irish and European painting and sculpture to contemporary video installations. There’s also a café. (Currently closed for renovation until 2028.)
Crawford Art Gallery (photo: Brian Morrison)
St Peter's Cork (87A North Main St) - St. Peter's is one of Cork's oldest standing churches, dating back to 1270. Now, deconsecrated, it serves as an arts exhibit space celebrating Cork’s heritage and culture. Plus, a nice café.
The Glucksman - University College Cork (College Rd) - The University’s art collection focuses on modern and contemporary Irish art. These works are placed throughout the campus to give students and visitors a first-hand experience with original works of art. (Book a UCC campus tour to see all the artworks.) The Glucksman highlights contemporary art with changing exhibits in a stunning, museum setting. There’s also a lovely café.
UCC artwork on campus (photo: William Murphy)

Ardú – Street Art Project - Several of Ireland’s well-known street artists were invited to create murals inspired by the memory of the 1920 Burning of Cork. The Ardú (Irish for “Rise”) Art Trail can be explored on a self-guided tour with an audio guide & downloadable map on the website.
Festivals: Guinness Cork Jazz Festival (Oct); Cork International Film Festival (Nov). 
Where To Stay: Lots of lovely places to stay from friendly Guesthouses to Lodges and Hotels, all in good locations with friendly staff & great breakfasts.

NEARBY JUANTS
Country Cork is an absolutely beautiful region, so factor in time for day trips or an even longer stay. Some great West Cork stops:
John Kelly “Cow Up A Tree”, Reen Farm
Clonakilty - Even Scally's, the local supermarket, is impressive.
Skibbereen – The Uillinn: West Cork Arts Centre is just terrific.
Reen Farm (Union Hall, Skibbereen) - The brilliant artist John Kelly and his talented wife Christina Todesco-Kelly have created a sculpture park featuring John’s work and a memorial to the Famine devastation on the South Reen peninsula. (Visits during the West Cork History Festival in August.) 
Of course, there’s always kissing the stone at Blarney Castle.
St. Fin Barre (photo: George Karbus)

Getting Around Locally: It's easy to get around by Bus Éireann & Trains.
Getting There: Depending on where you're coming from, there’s flights into nearby Shannon airport and direct flights to Cork airport.
So, start planning your trip. As the Irish say, Céad míle fáilte romhat!--"a hundred thousand welcomes"—and they mean it!

Friday, March 20, 2026

DANCE COMPANIES YOU NEED TO SEE

BODYTRAFFIC, Mayday (photo: Kevin Parry)
By Jacquelin Carnegie

Maybe you're not into dance because you just haven't seen the right company yet!
Start with these:

BODYTRAFFIC

When my favorite dance troupe Doug Elkins Dance disbanded, I was bereft. Seeing BODYTRAFFIC was the first time I've been that excited watching dance since then! BODYTRAFFIC is a Los Angeles-based, contemporary dance company with a dynamic repertoire that derives inspiration from LA’s diverse, cultural scene. Founded in 2007 by Artistic Director Tina Finkelman Berkett, BODYTRAFFIC has become known for its’ bold, innovative choreography and brilliant dancers. While the pieces are conceived by a global mix of acclaimed choreographers, Los Angeles’ unique, urban vibe is always championed. With their exciting repertoire and powerful performances, BODYTRAFFIC brings the vibrant, creative spirit of Los Angeles to audiences worldwide.
Yet the company is also deeply committed to its’ own LA community by bringing dance workshops to folks of all ages and abilities: mentoring over 700 students annually and partnering with local senior centers—with the goal of connecting people of vastly different life experiences through dance.
Find out when BODYTRAFFIC is coming to a city near you (tour).

BALLET HISPANICO 
Ballet Hispánico Sombrerisimo
This New York-based company blends contemporary ballet with Latino cultural influences. It’s always a thrill to see the varied pieces in the company’s repertoire. Founded in 1970 by Tina Ramirez, Eduardo Vilaro is the current Artistic Director & CEO, a former Ballet Hispánico dancer and an innovative choreographer who believes in preserving tradition while fostering innovation. The company draws on the wide range of cultural influences in the Latin American experience to create compelling works that explore themes of identity, resilience, and joy through movement that represent all aspects of the dynamic Latinx culture. The company is also lauded for the Ballet Hispánico School, training young dancers for the future, as well as its’ programs for schools and the community. Through their programs and performances, Ballet Hispánico brings the joy of dance and Hispanic culture to the world! Find out where to see Ballet Hispánico (tour).

BATTERY DANCE 
Battery Dance is unique in that it is not just a contemporary dance company presenting works. It’s a global “ambassador” for dance—connecting with peoples around the world through the universal language of movement by way of its’ Dancing to Connect
Battery Dance, Frontiers (photo: Claudio Rodriguez)
program. In addition to offering programs in New York City schools, Battery Dance has held dance workshops in countries in crisis, with peoples in conflict, and across stigmatized communities. Since 1976, Founder and Artistic Director Jonathan Hollander has guided the company to make dance accessible to everyone.
 
Their annual Battery Dance Festival showcases both local and international dance companies from around the world in a free, week-long presentation in a beautiful outdoor setting in Battery Park at the tip of Manhattan. All are welcome! (August, New York, but available to view thru video streaming.)

NYC Dance Venues
The Joyce - New York’s premier location for dance, presenting an outstanding, variety of national and international dance companies.
New York City Center - Annual, dance events at City Center: Flamenco Festival, Fall for Dance, the Alvin Ailey residency every December; in the spring: Ballet Hispanico, Dance Theater of Harlem, & the Martha Graham Company. 
Festivals92NY Harkness Dance Center – Women Move The World; La MaMa Moves! Dance Festival; CUNY Dance Initiative 
See Dance Wherever You Live: You don’t have to be in New York City to see great dance. Find dance events throughout the US: Dance/USA