The Cool Cultural Scene in the Northern Berkshires, MA: 7+ Artsy Reasons To Go

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (Pittsfield, MA)

The Berkshires (photo: Abby Leadbetter)

Culture lovers already flock to the Southern Berkshires in Massachusetts for concerts at Tanglewood in Lenox and dance performances at Jacob’s Pillow in Becket. But venturing a few towns north--to Pittsfield and Williamstown--opens up another world of artsy possibilities. Even after summer is over, the cultural activities continue.
Taking the Pits Out of PITTSFIELD
Back in 1998, First Lady Hillary Clinton came to town on a Save America’s Treasures tour and gave a shot-in-the-arm to blighted Pittsfield. The town’s subsequent revitalization has been tied to the arts--and what an impressive transformation it is. Architecturally, Pittsfield is not a charming New England town like Lenox or Stockbridge, but it makes up for that with all its’ cultural offerings.

1st Fridays (photo: Karl Volkman)

Taking It To The Streets
First Fridays at Five

Downtown Pittsfield, MA (May-Sept, 5pm-8pm; Free)

Once a month, a big street fair jazzes up Pittsfield’s main drag in the Upstreet Cultural District. There are bands playing, a variety of food stalls, and tons of entertaining activities for young and old. In addition to what’s going on in the street, shops, art studios, wine bars, and cafés stay open late. It’s also a great opportunity to chat with the friendly locals.

First Fridays ArtsWalk

Karen Andrews Asian Fusion

Downtown Pittsfield, MA (May-Sept, 5pm-8pm; Free) -- Who knew there were some 50 artist studios in downtown Pittsfield? On First Fridays, there’s art on display not only in the galleries and studios but in all sorts of places: restaurants, bagel shops, the Berkshire Medical Center, The Lichtenstein Center for the Arts, and loads of other off-beat spots.

The Write Stuff

Arrowhead

Melville’s writing desk 

(photo: Pablo Sanchez)

780 Holmes Rd., Pittsfield, MA; Tel: 413/442-1793; www.mobydick.org (Open: May-Oct, Thurs-Mon, 9:30am-5pm, visit by Tour. Tours available off-season by appointment; Fee)

Here’s something else you might not have known--Herman Melville wrote Moby Dick, and several other works, while living here from 1850 to 1863. Melville’s former home, restored by the Berkshire Historical Society, is now a National Historic Landmark and open to visitors.

It’s Showtime!

Barrington Stage Company

30 Union St., Pittsfield, MA, Tel:
413/236-8888; barringtonstageco.org

Debra Jo Rupp, Dr. Ruth 

 ©Barrington Stage

Founded in 1995, the not-for-profit company, housed in a renovated 1912 vaudeville theatre (plus several new buildings), produces award-winning plays and musicals, and finds innovative ways to attract new audiences and introduce young people to theatre. The new productions at Barrington Stage are so terrific they often transfer to Broadway (The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee, American Son), but you can see them first, right here!

The Colonial Theater - Berkshire Theater Group

111 South St., Pittsfield, MA; Tel: 413/997-4444; www.thecolonialtheatre.org

The Colonial Theater

The Colonial, designed in 1903 by noted architect J.B. McElfatrick, was a popular Vaudeville theater. After years of neglect, it’s been beautifully restored to its Gilded Age grandeur and now provides a stunning venue for top-name stars for concerts, comedies, musicals, and family entertainment all year long.

A Museum With More

Berkshire Museum

39 South St., Pittsfield, MA; Tel: 413/443-7171; www.berkshiremuseum.org 

(Open: Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm; Sun, 12pm-5pm. Fee)

Opened in 1903 by Zenas Crane as an art and natural history museum, the Berkshire Museum’s collection includes everything from fine art to fossils, an aquarium to ancient artifacts, and objects from every continent. In addition to nifty special exhibits, the museum hosts lots of creative events. 

A Fistful of Festivals
Here are a few examples:

February: 10X10 Upstreet: a contemporary arts festival. April: Pittsfield CityJazz Festival: annual jazz fest. 

Dining Options: There’s a huge selection of all kinds of restaurants, cafés and wine bars on North Street in the Upstreet Cultural District.
Spend the Night: Holiday Inn or Hotel on North.

Williamstown, MA 

(photo: Daderot)

Getting There: Drive or from New York (Port Authority Bus Terminal) take a Peter Pan bus to Pittsfield; about 4 hours, but worth it! Seasonal weekend train service: Amtrak's The Berkshire Flyer will run Fri/Sun from May to October.

WONDERFUL WEEKEND IN WILLIAMSTOWN

About a half-hour from Pittsfield, this quaint little town, home to Williams College founded in 1793, has some terrific cultural institutions you won’t want to miss. 

Must-See Art Collections

Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute

225 South St., Williamstown, MA; Tel: 413/458-2303; clarkart.edu

(Open: Tues-Sun, 10am–5pm; daily in the summer. Fee)

Sterling & Francine Clark Art Institute

(photo: Betty Sartori)

Sterling Clark, heir to the Singer sewing machine fortune, moved to Paris in 1910 and, along with his wife Francine, began acquiring an extraordinary collection of Impressionist and Old Master paintings. These masterpieces form the core of the Institute’s permanent collection. Opened in 1955, as both a museum and research center, The Clark’s original neoclassical building is now surrounded by modern additions by internationally-renown architect Tadao Ando. In addition to the artwork and special exhibits, other offerings include: live music performances, talks, and lectures. There are also walking trails on The Clark’s 140 acres of beautifully-landscaped forests and fields. (Plus a great gift shop!)

Eyes by Louise Bourgeois

 (©WCMA, photo: Arthur Evans)

Williams College Museum of Art

Rt. 2, 15 Lawrence Hall Dr., Williamstown, MA; Tel: 413/597-2429; wcma.williams.edu 

(Open: Tues-Sun, 10am-5pm; Free) 

This lovely little spot is considered one of the finest college art museums in the country with 13,000 works that cover the history of art. But, WCMA is best known for modern and contemporary art, especially its collection of American art from the late-18th century to the present.

The Stars are Out

Williamstown Theatre Festival

Rt. 2, 1000 Main St., Williamstown, MA; Tel: 413/597-3400; wtfestival.org

Blythe Danner, The Blue Deep

(photo: T. Charles Erickson) 

Every summer, for almost 70 years, the Festival brings top actors to this tiny town to perform in exciting versions of the classics and new works by gifted playwrights. It’s worth a trip to Williamstown to see a production. It’s also fun to spot big-name stars eating in the local cafés. (Sadly, no summer program in 2026 as the Festival will become biennial.)

Dining Options: Along Spring Street, in the center of town, there are lots of nice little shops, galleries, and eateries. 

Spent the Night: Plenty of charming accommodations.

Getting There: Drive or from New York (Penn Station), take an Amtrak train to the Albany station (about 2 ½ hrs, with stunning views of the Hudson River along the way). Then, a taxi or car service to Williamstown, about an hour. (Abbott Limo Service: 413/243-1645)  Also, bus connections run between Pittsfield and Williamstown.

ART BEAT: Visit 5 FABULOUS ART FOUNDATIONS in New York City

The Brant Foundation, Basquiat exhibit (photo: Tom Powel imaging)

By Jacquelin Carnegie

The Brant Foundation

In New York City, there are many great ways to have culturally-inspiring experiences and lots of wonderful places to see incredible art. While you may be familiar with all the major museums, there are also several, really special art foundations you might not have heard about, where the spaces they’re housed in are often as interesting as the art: 
Downtown
The Brant Foundation
421 East 6th St, btw 1st Ave - Ave A; brantfoundation.org (Open: Wed-Sun; Fee or Free Admission depending on exhibit)

Successful businessman and philanthropist Peter Brant has many eclectic interests, but his main passion is contemporary art. He’s been an avid collector since his college days when his first acquisitions included two Andy Warhols and a Franz Kline! Lucky for us, Brant has put his impressive collection on display, first in Greenwich, Connecticut and now in a stunning new location in New York City. The building, a former ConEd substation, has been redesigned as an exhibit space which is as knockout as the artwork on display. [Enjoy a virtual tour of Brant’s extensive Jean-Michel Basquiat collection.] 

Judd Foundation
101 Spring St, www.juddfoundation.org; Tel: 212/219-2747 (Open: Tues-Sat; Admission Fee; Guided tours only, book in advance) 

Judd bedroom, Dan Flavin light sculpture
(photo: James Ewing; Courtesy Judd Foundation)

You don’t have to be a fan of Donald Judd’s artwork to appreciate a visit to his former home and studio in Manhattan's SoHo district. First, the beautifully-restored, 19th-century, cast-iron building is one of the few remaining in the neighborhood. Next, Judd designed and built many of the everyday items in the home such as dining tables, chairs, desks, etc. And, the space is filled with works by some of Judd’s favorite artists such as Dan Flavin and Frank Stella. Judd bought the building in 1968; a visit provides a fascinating glimpse into the life of a successful, modern artist.

Resnick-Passlof Foundation

The Milton Resnick & Pat Passlof Foundation
87 Eldridge St; resnickpasslof.org; Tel: 646/559-2513 (Open: Thurs-Sat, 11am-6pm; Free Admission; Closed in Aug.)

Milton Resnick and Pat Passlof were Abstract Expressionist painters who lived and worked on Manhattan’s Lower East Side in a building that was once a synagogue. Since their passing, the space has been renovated into a showplace for their signature paintings as well as for exhibits of work by other Abstract Expressionist artists. The Foundation also presents lectures, poetry readings, and musical programs in this magnificent space.

Chelsea
The FLAG Art Foundation
545 West 25th St, 9th Fl, btw 10th-11th Ave; http://flagartfoundation.org; Tel: 212/206-0220 (Open: Wed-Sat, 11am-5pm; Free Admission)

Nicolas Party: Pastel, 2021, FLAG 
(photo: Steven Probert)

Financier, philanthropist, collector, and art patron Glenn Fuhrman launched The FLAG Art Foundation as a non-profit, exhibit space to encourage the appreciation of contemporary art. The marvelous, imaginative exhibits are meant to attract a diverse audience. FLAG generally presents four to six exhibits a year of both established and emerging artists. The Foundation also invites a creative group of individuals—artists, athletes, writers, historians, fashion designers, museum directors--to guest curate these fab exhibits.

Hill Art Foundation
239 Tenth Ave, at 24th St, 3rd Fl, https://hillartfoundation.org
(Open: Tues-Sat, 11am-5pm; Free Admission)

Hill Art Foundation

For forty years, former financier J. Tomilson Hill and his wife have been passionate art collectors. The Hill Art Foundation is a lovely way for them to share their collection with the public: allowing visitors to see how they think about art as well as how they juxtapose and display pieces. While the Foundation reflects the Hills’ personal taste, it’s also about sharing—encouraging the viewer to reflect on and engage with the pieces to find new interpretations of the works on view. The galley space itself is stunning, on the 3rd & 4th floors of the Getty building designed by famed architect Peter Marino.

10+ Artsy & Cool Reasons to Visit Valencia, Spain

Centro Historico

By Jacquelin Carnegie 

Valencia is one of those "hidden gems" worth discovering on your next trip to Spain. Just a few hours south of Barcelona, Valencia is a charming small city with stunning architecture and friendly people on Spain's Mediterranean coast. In addition to all the city has to offer, it's situated in the region of Valencia (Comunitat Valenciana), which has everything from mountain retreats to popular beach resorts. The weather in the area is splendid spring, summer, and fall, so almost anytime is a good time to visit.
DISCOVER THE BEAUTY OF THE CITY: ARCHITECTURE & NEIGHBORHOODS
Spain's third largest city has a fascinating history. As a result, Valencia is a beautiful mélange of architectural marvels from Romanesque façades to castle-like Gothic structures, to ornate Baroque residences, and Modernist buildings from the city's expansion, beginning in the late 19th century.

Cathedral, Plaza de la Virgen

Walking & Bike Tours (Valencia Guias, Tel: +34 963 851 740; www.valenciaguias.com): One of the pure joys of being in Valencia is simply walking or, if you prefer, biking around and exploring all the neighborhoods. The experience is richer when accompanied by a knowledgeable guide. Marvel at all the wonderful examples of architectural styles within the  Centro Histórico (Historic Center), including the Ciutat Vella (Old Town), and El Carmen area, formally rundown but now flourishing with restaurants, clubs, and nightlife. When the walls surrounding Valencia’s old town were demolished in 1865, a new neighborhood was created--admire the elegant, Modernist buildings in Ensanche and check out Ruzafa, a working-class, ethnically-diverse section, that is becoming the city's hippest area.

Mercado Central

VALENCIA'S FOOD SPECIALTIES
The Valencia region is famous for its produce such as oranges and rice and wonderful food including Spain's most famous dish, Paella, and a local drink, Horchata.
Restaurant Week (Cuina Oberta) - Twice a year in spring and fall. With more than 50 restaurants participating, it's a great time to eat some Paella, said to originate from Valencia. Here, the pan of saffron-flavored rice is served with chunks of rabbit, chicken, snails, and vegetables (not seafood). Enjoy some at Palace Fesol (7 Hernán Cortés).
Horchatería Santa Catalina (6 Plaza de Santa Catalina; www.horchateriasantacatalina.com) Try this typical Valencian snack: Horchata, a cold, creamy, sweet drink made from chufas (tiger nuts), often served with Fartons, pastries covered with powdered sugar.

Mercado Central (Plaza Ciudad de Brujas; http://bit.ly/1oUSYe3) One of the largest food markets in Europe, it's a stunning example of Modernist architecture. Built in 1914, locals still buy groceries here.
Mercado de Colón (19 Calle Jorge Juan; www.mercadocolon.es) Another beautiful Modernist structure, this former food market opened in 1916. Today, it's an upscale mall with shops, cafes, and interesting restaurants such as Ma Khin Café. Concerts are also held in the atrium.
Original CV - Shop at one of these stores (or online) for authentic, Valencian food & gift items to bring home.
FANTASTICAL FESTIVALS

Las Fallas

Valencia is also famous for its exceptional festivals throughout the year. Here are two of the zaniest: Las Fallas (March) - Huge Ninots (puppets) depicting satirical scenes--often mocking politicians and celebrities--are filled with fireworks and set on fire. In addition to the pyrotechnics, the weeklong extravaganza includes bullfights, parades, contests, and general merriment. La Tomatina (August) - This tomato-throwing contest, in the nearby town of Buñol, began in 1945. Now, this crazy tradition is a weeklong festival with music, parades, dancing, a big Paella cook-off, and fireworks. (Advanced tickets required.)
PAST, PRESENT & FUTURE
Valencia was founded by the Romans in 138 BC, occupied by Muslims for hundreds of years, then became part of the medieval kingdom of Aragon in 1238. During the 15th century, it was one of the most important Mediterranean cities. Today, the city's past is present as it moves into the future. Here's just a few of the wondrous sites to be visited: 

Museo Arqueológico de La Almoina (Plaza de La Almoina; http://bit.ly/190Xl1S) This museum, on the site where Valencia was founded, offers an exploration of the city's history through excavated ruins from various periods. Archaeological finds include Roman baths, Visigoth tombs, and a Moorish courtyard.

Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange)

La Lonja de la Seda (8-9 Plaza del Mercado; http://bit.ly/1M4LPBM)
This splendid Gothic-style mercantile palace was built in the 15th century to symbolize Valencia's wealth and power. Merchants came from all over to trade here--oil, then silk, followed by agricultural products. Now, it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Plaza de Toros (28 Calle de Xàtiva; www.torosvalencia.com) Bullfights (corridas) still take place in Valencia. If that's not your thing, the beautiful Plaza de Toros amphitheater, built in 1859, is also used as a concert venue. Take a tour of the ring and adjacent museum.

City of Arts & Sciences

Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències (Avenida Autopista del Saler; Tel: +34 902 100 031; cac.es) Designed by native-son, architect Santiago Calatrava, the stunning City of Arts & Sciences is a 21st-century, architectural marvel. The complex includes: Museo de las Cièncias Príncipe Felipe - a family-friendly science museum; Oceanografic - a marine park & one of Europe’s largest aquariums; Hemisfèric - Auditorium & Planetarium; Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía - a spectacular opera house; Umbracle - a beautiful, covered garden. Plan plenty of time to explore it all.
Palau de la Música (30 Paseo de la Alameda; www.palaudevalencia.com) Valencia's concert hall is known for its wonderful acoustics. Some of the most prestigious orchestras in the world perform here.
SENSATIONAL CERAMICS

Arturo Mora ceramics

The region of Valencia is renowned for ceramics. In addition to these museums, be sure to visit the nearby, world-famous-for-ceramics town of Manises.
Museo Nacional de Cerámica de Valencia González Martí (2 Poeta Querol; http://bit.ly/1DnHGEV) Housed in a beautiful, 15th-century palace, the museum traces the history of ceramics from prehistoric pieces to contemporary works by Picasso.
Lladró Museum (Ctra. de Alboraya, Tavernes Blanques; Tel: +34 963 187 000; http://bit.ly/1A2Qcqw) Lladró figurines are beloved world-over. At the headquarters in the Tavernas Blanques suburb, see the family's private collection since the 1953 beginning and take a factory tour to observe how everything's made. (Reservations required.)

Bioparc

PARKS & REC
Beach Day: As a costal city, Valencia has beautiful beaches just a metro ride away from the center of town. Stroll along Paseo Marítimo, the lovely beachfront promenade lined with cafés and restaurants, as you soak up the sun.

Paseo Maritimo, Valencia's beachfront

A Walk in the Park: When the flood-prone river Turia, surrounding the city of Valencia, was diverted, the riverbed was turned into parkland. The Jardín del Turia (Turia Gardens; locals still call it El Rio, the river) is the pride and joy of the city with jogging & cycling paths, gardens, fountains, & playgrounds.
Better Than a Zoo: Bioparc - Without leaving Valencia, be transported to an African wildlife sanctuary. If you're traveling with kids or just love animals, spend a day here watching antelopes, zebras, gorillas, ring-tailed lemurs, warthogs, lions, and leopards, just to name a few, roam freely in natural habitats. Have a meal on the cafeteria terrace as giraffes stroll by!
DAY TRIPS: MANISES - Renowned for ceramics since the 14th century, with some 30 pottery workshops, many open to visitors--be sure to visit La Cerámica Valenciana & Arturo Mora. Manises is just a metro ride away from Valencia. SERGORBE - In the Valencian province of Castelló, Segorbe is famous for many things including a bull-running week (Semana de Toros) and fabulous olive oil, Belluga.
LEARN SPANISH AND/OR STUDY MUSIC

Spanish: The University of Valencia dates from 1499. While many high school and college students come here to study Spanish, there are also several language schools and programs that cater to adults. Music: The international campus of Boston's renowned Berklee College of Music is in Valencia. Both are great excuses to spend some time in this beautiful city! 
Making Your Trip Easier: Valencia Tourist Card - Unlimited travel on public transport, plus discounts at shops, restaurants and museums.
Where to Stay: There are any number of great places to stay from budget hostels (Nest) to lovely boutique hotels to five-star accommodations (Las Arenas, right on the beach) or vacation-rental apartments. AdHoc Monumental Hotel (4 Calle Boix, Tel: +34 963 919 140; www.adhochoteles.com) - This charming, boutique hotel with a delightful & helpful staff is right in the heart of the Old Town district.

Modernist building in Ruzafa

Getting There: Currently, there are no direct flights into Valencia from the U.S. Fly to Madrid with a connecting flight or take Spain’s high-speed train the AVE from Madrid's Atocha station to Valencia, about 90 minutes. Or, fly into Barcelona and take a local train. You can pre-purchase train tickets on RailEurope or Omio, a great site that cost compares flight, train, & bus options. Spain's national airlines, Iberia, has an excellent on-time record, new aircraft on long-haul flights, reconfigured Business class and, what feels like, a roomier Coach section as well. While Valencia is worth visiting all on its own, you can easily combine it with a trip to Madrid and/or Barcelona. Spain has so much to offer!

10+ Artsy & Cool Reasons To Visit Paris in the Fall/Winter (& All Year Long)!

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Morning in Paris (artist: Maja Wronska)

“Paris in springtime” is the cliché, but there’s no bad time to visit this vibrant city. In fact, Paris' Fall/Winter cultural calendar is chockablock. Plus, just imagine how wonderful Christmas and New Year’s are in the City of Light!

MAJOR MUSEUM EXHIBITS
While great art is on view all year long in Paris, many of the museums open major exhibits in October that stay on view until the end of January or longer. Check out what exhibits are up next at these wonderful museums:

Fondation Louis Vuitton
8 Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne, 16th arrondissement; www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr; Metro: Les Sablons (FLV exit, then a lovely 10-minute walk or take the Shuttle from the Charles de Gaulle Etoile stop)

FLV, as stunning as the artwork inside

FLV's Frank Gehry-designed building is worth a visit no matter what’s on view, but most of the time it features not-to-be-missed, blockbuster exhibits. Check out what's currently on view & the upcoming Exhibits. 

Quai Brandly
27 Quai Branly; 7th arrondissement; www.quaibranly.fr; Metro: Alma-Maceau
This is such a terrific museum, plan to spend the whole day here. In the very-modern, Jean Nouvel-designed building the indigenous art and cultures of Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas are highlighted, along with fascinating temporary exhibits (plus, up-close views of the Eiffel Tower from the garden). Check out the current Exhibits.

President of Togo (artist: Kehinde Wiley)

[A past exhibit featured portraits of African presidents by the fabulous artist Kehinde Wiley, who did President Obama’s portrait.]

Centre Pompidou
Place Georges-Pompidou, 4th arrondissement; www.centrepompidou.fr; Metro: Hôtel-de-Ville, Rambuteau (closed until 2030)
Whether you love or hate this Renzo Piano-designed museum, it will be closed for 5 years for renovations. But, the comprehensive collection will be on display in exhibits at various locations. Check out the venues for Exhibits.

Must-See New Museum

Fondation Cartier
2 Place du Palais-Royal; 1st arrondissement;

Metro: Palais-Royal; www.fondationcartier.com 

Fondation Cartier

Is there not another architect in France? It seems Jean Nouvel gets all the work, but he did a splendid job with this one. He preserved the façade of this magnificent, 19th-century building and built a huge, open-structure inside with few interior walls, so one can see the artworks on various levels from whatever level one's on. While the space is huge and exhausting to explore, it's also light-filled and lovely. Another positive: There’s a very-helpful, group of young, enthusiastic guides, dressed in blue, throughout the museum to answer any questions regarding the artworks. The inaugural exhibit, Exposition Générale, features major pieces from Fondation Cartier’s vast, contemporary art collection. (Currently, there’s also a tiny cafe, but a larger one and a restaurant are in the works.) Enter on the lovely Place du Palais-Royal, with the Louvre nearby.

Other Museums with Great Exhibits: Musée Orsay; Musée d'Art Moderne; Musée du Luxembourg. Here's info on additional artsy visits.

FABULOUS ART & PHOTO FAIRS
A number of fairs and festivals add to the busy Fall calendar of events:
Paris Art Basel (October) - This major art fair showcases offerings by top, international galleries. Along with a program of free, outdoor exhibits throughout the city.

Arc de Triomphe, Champs-Elysées, Holiday Lights

Paris Photo (November) – This is Le Mois de la Photo. In addition to the photo fair, there are over 100 photography exhibits all over town. 

COOL CULTURAL CHOICES
Festival d'automne (www.festival-automne.com) - This annual festival celebrating the arts--dance, theatre, music, film, and visual art--runs from September through December. The events take place in a variety of Paris venues highlighting exceptional work.

Festival d'automne (Bel/Mengual Dance)

European Heritage Days (www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr) - On the third weekend in September, historic sites--public monuments and private buildings--offer free admission. This is a unique chance to visit some of Paris' most prestigious places.
La Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre (www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com) - Montmartre’s vineyards date from 390 B.C. Every year, during the first week of October, Montmartre’s Wine Harvest Festival is celebrated throughout the neighborhood with a parade, wine-tasting booths, food stalls, music, dancing in the streets, and fireworks. It’s a fun time to plan a trip to Paris.

Fete des Vendanges

Portes Ouvertes (Artists Open Studios) - While most Portes Ouvertes take place in the spring, a few are in the Fall/Winter such as: Ménilmontant (Sept); Père Lachaise & La Goutte d’Or (Dec).

CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR’S CHEER
While Paris is magical all year long, during the holiday season the city sparkles. Hundreds of decorated trees line the boulevards, the window displays are all aglow at the major department stores, and there are Christmas markets galore hopping with activity. That’s in addition to several concerts in an assortment of lovely churches and other locals. Plus, New Year’s eve fireworks over the Arc de Triomphe on the magnificent Champs-Elysées boulevard and a light show from the illuminated Eiffel Tower!

Galeries Lafayette

Where To Stay: Here are some great options. 
Getting There: French bee - This low-cost carrier has routes to Paris with great fares from the US: currently, New York (Newark, EWR), Los Angeles (LAX), San Francisco (SFO) & Miami (MIA) with friendly flight attendants and on-time flights. Coach is quite comfy, but you can opt for a Cosy Cabin &/or a Maxi Leg seat. There’s Light, Smart, Flex & Premium pricing. Seat/Luggage/Meal might be included or add-ons for a fee, pre-booked online, but you can bring your own meal and get a free seat-assignment at the airport, just paying the luggage fee in advance. Another French bee advantage: The flights fly into Paris Orly (ORY), a smaller and easier-to-navigate airport than Charles de Galle, with several transport connections to the city center. You also get through Customs faster here! 

Paris: 10+ Artsy Reasons to Explore Montmartre

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (Paris, France)

Sacré-Cœur, La Fête des Vendanges

Imagine what it was like to hang out in Montmartre back in the late 19^th & early 20^th century when this hill in the 18th arrondissement was a bohemian enclave of artists, writers, and poets. Today, Montmartre’s become a tourist attraction, but the vestiges of its artsy past still remain and are definitely worth exploring. To experience the authentic charm of this neighborhood, sightsee early in the morning and late at night and wander down the lovely side streets to chat with the locals.
MONTMARTRE’S MOST INTRIGUING SIGHTS

Le Bateau-Lavoir

 (photo: cinazza)

13 rue Ravignan, Place Emile Goudeau; Metro: Abbesse

Although the building, rebuilt after a fire, isn’t open to the public, check out the commemorative window because a number of the most influential artists and writers of the 20^th century once lived here. From 1904 to 1912, Pablo Picasso had a studio where he painted Les Demoiselles d’Avingnon, ushering in cubism. Artists Modigliani and Gris also lived here as did poets Max Jacob and André Salmon.

(photo: JCarnegie)

Le Passe-Muraille 

Place Marcel Aymé, at rue Norvins & rue Girardon; Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt
This intriguing sculpture is based on a short story character, Monsieur Dutilleul, who was able to walk through walls (Le Passe-Muraille, 1943). Famous French actor Jean Marais made the bronze sculpture to honor the author, Marcel Aymé, who lived in Montmartre.

Le Mur des “Je t’aime” (“I love You” Wall)

Place des Abbesses, Square Jehan Rictus; www.lesjetaime.com; Metro: Abbesses

 (photo: Moxieg)

This unique art installation looks like a blackboard covered with scribbles, but it’s actually a wall of glazed tiles with “I Love You” written in 250 languages to inspire peace and love.

THE BEST ENTERTAINMENT IN MONTMARTRE

 (photo: auselen)

Au Lapin Agile 
22 rue des Saules; Tel: 01/46-06-85-87; www.au-lapin-agile.com; Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt
Open: Tues, Thurs-Sat, 9pm-1am; Cost: 40€ per person, includes one drink
An evening at the Lapin Agile is kitsch, it’s cool, it’s not to be missed. Opened in 1860, artists and writers such as Picasso, Utrillo, Modigliani, and Apollinaire used to hang out here. You can’t go back in time but, each night, a talented group of musicians and singers keeps the art of French chanson alive.

Théâtre Lepic

1 avenue Junot; Tel: 01/42-54-15-12; theatrelepic.com; Metro: Abbesses

This little theater was renovated by famed film director Claude Lelouch for use in one of his movies, then run by his daughter Salomé. It has become a neighborhood venue for innovative theater, concerts and family entertainment. Catch a show and feel like a local.

MONTMARTRE’S MUST-SEE MUSEUM & GALLERIES

Musée de Montmartre

12 rue Cortot

www.museedemontmartre.fr Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt; Open: Daily, 10am-7pm; Fee.

Before the historic Manoir de Rosimond became a museum highlighting Montmartre’s fascinating past, it was home to some incredible artists such as Renoir, Utrillo, and Raoul Dufy. Enjoy the exhibits, then contemplate the past in the lovely, courtyard garden where Renoir once sat and painted. You can even have a snack at the Café Renoir.

André Renoux, Galerie André Roussard

It's amazing how many admired painters have had studios in Montmartre including some of the most famous such as Braque, Degas, Modigliani, and Utrillo. Today, a new generation of talented artists such as Gen Paul, André Renoux, Jean-Charles Decoudun, and Robert Delval, keep the tradition alive.

Galerie AVM

42 rue Caulaincourt; Tel: 06/77-77-85-46; galerieavm.com
Metro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt Open:Wed-Sun, 2pm-7pm 

Paule Honoré, Galerie AVM 

This delightful little gallery exhibits contemporary art: paintings, sculpture, prints, and objects d’art. It’s on Caulaincourt, a beautiful street in a less touristy section of Montmartre, worth exploring.

Halle Saint Pierre
2 rue Ronsard; Tel: 01/42-58-72-89; www.hallesaintpierre.org; Metro: Anvers; Open: Daily, 11am-6pm; Fee.
Built in 1868, the Halle Saint Pierre, located at the base of Montmartre, was once a market. Today, it’s a lovely cultural center with a cute café, a folk art collection, and space for temporary exhibits.

DISCOVER MONTMARTRE’S FASCINATING PAST

Place du Tertre (photo: David Monniaux)

Walking The Spirit Tours

Tel: 519/497-0933; www.walkthespirit.com; Duration: 2+ hrs; Fee per person

In the 1920s, jazz musicians and entertainers from the “Harlem Renaissance”--Josephine Baker, Sidney Bechet, Ada “Bricktop” Smith, and writers Langston Hughes and Countee Cullen--came to Paris and gravitated to lower Montmartre. On The Entertainers tour, learn all about this jazz scene in Montmartre and see where the famous clubs such as Chez Bricktop, Le Grand Duc and Chez Josephine used to be.

IT’S PARTY TIME IN MONTMARTRE

La Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre 
www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com

Montmartre’s vineyards date from 390 B.C. Every year, during the month of October, Montmartre’s Wine Harvest Festival is celebrated throughout the neighborhood with a parade, wine-tasting booths, food stalls, music, dancing in the streets, and fireworks. It’s a fun time to plan a trip to Paris.

La Commanderie du Clos-Montmartre

Btw rue des Saules & rue Saint-Vincent; Tel: 01/44-92-35-34; Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt

(photo: Son of Groucho)

The current vineyard was re-planted in 1929. The Clos Montmartre can be visited during La Fête des Vendanges or through special arrangement with La Commanderie (call first).

GRAB A SNACK IN MONTMARTRE

Jean-Charles Decoudun, Galerie André Roussard

Au Relais (48 rue Lamarck; https://aurelai.fr/en) - A typical French bistro. Les Petits Mitrons (26 rue Lepic;

https://bit.ly/2MDY5lH) - A local bakery known for quiches & fruit tarts.

WHERE TO STAY:

Airbnb: Really get a feel for Montmartre by renting a room or an apartment in the neighborhood. 

Hotel des Arts (5 Rue Tholozé; Tel: 01/46-06-30-52; www.arts-hotel-paris.com) - a little, low-key hotel that pays homage to Montmartre’s artsy past.

(photo: Maggie D’Urbano)

GETTING THERE:
Walk: Several different sets of  steep steps; Metro: Abbesses or Lamarck–Caulaincourt; Bus 40: Makes several stops in Montmartre; Funicular: Rue Tardieu (at the base) to Rue Saint Eleuthère (at the top);   

Le Petit Train de Montmartre: at Place Blanche, hop on a little tourist choo-choo.