5 Artsy Day Trips an Hour from PARIS

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Monet, Train to Jeufosse

If you’re an art lover, this itinerary is for you. It was the development of train travel in the late 1800s in France that enabled artists to easily reach the Parisian outskirts to paint landscapes, giving rise to the en plein air ("in the open air") painting style. These treks into the countryside led artists to consider moving to the picturesque suburbs. Today, follow in their footsteps by hopping on a train. All of these lovely places are within an hour of Paris either by RER (light rail), SNCF (train) or TGV (fast train).

MORNINGS WITH MONET
Fondation Claude Monet
84 Rue Claude Monet, Giverny
fondation-monet.com; (Open: April-Nov. Fee.) 

Monet, The Artist's Garden at Giverny

Monet noticed the village of Giverny while passing by on a train; in 1883, he moved his family here. His presence attracted other artists, from the famous to the unknown. (On Nov. 28, 1894, both Rodin and Cézanne visited!) It’s easy to visit Monet’s house and gardens without taking an overpriced bus tour. Get here on your own—by train, of course. Take an early one to arrive just as the gates open at the Claude Monet Foundation. The garden is beautiful, but smaller than imagined. And, the famed Japanese water garden is now on the other side of a busy main road. However, the house has been lovingly restored and the town is worth a visit. Have a meal or a look-see at the famed artists’ hangout, the restaurant Hôtel Baudy (open March-Nov), and don’t miss the Musée des Impressionnismes, just down the road.
Getting There: From Paris' Gare St. Lazare station, take a SNCF train to Vernon-Giverny. At Vernon, the train is met by a shuttle bus to the Claude Monet Foundation. Taxis and bikes are also available.

AU REVOIR VAN GOGH
Auvers-sur-Oise

Van Gogh,
Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption

Auvers-sur-Oise is a really charming town where Vincent van Gogh sadly spent the last months of his life. He moved here in May 1890 and did some eighty paintings. Markers throughout the town indicate Van Gogh-related points of interest and the sites he painted such as the church Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption and the City Hall. At the Château d'Auvers (the kitschiest museum you’ll ever visit), experience French life at the time of the Impressionists. Pay homage to Van Gogh at the room he occupied in the Auberge Ravoux. At the cemetery, weep over his grave and the sad irony of the penniless painter, now considered the most popular artist in the world.
Getting There: From Paris' Gare du Nord station, take the RER or SNCF train in the direction of Pontoise or Valmondois, with a transfer to Auvers-sur-Oise. (On Saturdays & Sundays, April to November, there’s a direct train, H line.)

RODIN’S COUNTRY HIDEAWAY
Musée Rodin - Meudon
Villa des Brillants
19 Avenue Auguste Rodin, Meudon (Open: Spring-Fall, Free)

Rodin, The Thinker

The sculptor Auguste Rodin moved to Meudon Val Fleury in 1893. While he continued to go to his Parisian studio, he did a lot of creative work here. The museum is actually the villa where he lived and the studio where he worked, set in a beautiful park. Today, only a few rooms in the villa are open to the public, but the atelier is filled with spectacular casts of important pieces such as The Burghers of Calais and The Gates of Hell. Out front, The Thinker fittingly presides over Rodin’s tomb. This lovely spot, perched on a hill overlooking the Parc de St. Cloud and the Seine, is the perfect setting for a picnic on a nice day.
Getting There: From Paris, take RER (C) in the direction of Versailles Rive Gauche to Meudon Val Fleury. Then, from the station, take bus #169 (Paul Bert stop). It’s a walk uphill from there.

RODIN'S MUSE FINALLY GETS HER DUE
Musée Camille Claudel
10 rue Gustave Flaubert, Nogent-sur-Seine
www.museecamilleclaudel.fr  (Open: All year. Fee.)

Claudel, Femme Accroupie

This new museum is the first in France to be dedicated to a woman artist. Recognition a long time in coming for an artist who spent most of her career trying to assert her own creativity and independence from Rodin. Certainly in the 19th-century, Camille Claudel was regarded more for being Rodin's student, studio assistant, collaborator, muse, model, and mistress--rather than a sculptor in her own right. But, it was in Nogent-sur-Seine as a young girl that her talent was first recognized and encouraged by the well-known sculptor Alfred Boucher. Boucher then asked Rodin to take her on as a student and the rest is history. As to the museum, works by other 19th-century sculptors who taught or influenced Claudel are displayed in the large first floor galleries in the modern section of the building. Oddly enough, Claudel's own works are relegated to the 2nd floor in the old section that was once the Claudels' family home.
Flaubert Fans: Flaubert's father's family was from Nogent-sur-Seine. His novel L'Éducation Sentimentale (Sentimental Education) is set here. At the tourist office (5 rue Saint Epoing), pick up a brochure with a map of highlights, "Sur Les Pas de Flaubert." 
Getting There: From Paris' Gare de l’Est station, take a SNCF train to Nogent-sur-Seine (about an hour). The museum is a 10-minute walk from the station.

DA VINCI SLEPT HERE
Château du Clos Lucé
2 Rue du Clos Lucé, Amboise, Val de Loire www.vinci-closluce.com (Open: All year. Fee.)

Da Vinci model at Clos Lucé

Long before any artist hopped on a train, the master of them all--Leonardo da Vinci--loaded his painting supplies and a few canvases onto a mule for the journey from Italy to France. Da Vinci came to the château at Amboise in the Loire Valley on the invitation of King François 1, a major fan. The king told Da Vinci he was "free to think, dream, and work." (It's the reason the Mona Lisa is in the Louvre.) You can visit the rooms where Da Vinci worked the last years of his life and view maquettes of his ingenious machines. The château is surrounded by a magnificent park with life-size models of many of Da Vinci's futuristic inventions that only became realities some 400 years later.
Getting There: From Paris' Gare Montparnasse station, take the TGV train to St Pierre des Corps. (An hour, plus a 20-minute taxi ride or local train connection to Amboise.) Or, take a 2-hour train, direct to Amboise from Paris' Gare Austerlitz.

Paris has six train stations, each serving specific regions. (There’s a rhyme and reason to it, but it often seems completely arbitrary!) However, you can do itinerary and timetable searches for all these trips before leaving the comfort of your home on Transilien or Rail Europe. Most of these lovely places, and 5 other artsy spots, are best visited in the spring and summer (some are only open from March to November), so book your flights to Paris now! 

[Editor's Note: A version of this article first appeared on Frommers.com]

Paris: 5 Top Artists Open Studio Visits (Portes Ouvertes)

Poster by Olivier Geffard

By Jacquelin Carnegie - (Paris, France)
Going on artists’ open studio visits is a great way to see interesting artwork and to get to know Paris. Because the Portes Ouvertes are organized by neighborhood (arrondissement), you can explore areas you might not be familiar with and get an inside peak into unique studio spaces and, sometimes, even an artist's home. The Open Studios (Portes Ouvertes) take place twice a year in spring and fall. Generally, work in all mediums is on exhibit: painting, photography, sculpture, woodworking, ceramics, mixed media, and video.
THE BEST PORTES OUVERTES IN PARIS
Each Portes Ouvertes location has Welcome Centers (points d’accueil) where you can get more information on the artists and pick up a map of the area's open studios. (Also, checkout each Portes Ouvertes' website beforehand for info and to download a map.)
Les Ateliers d'Artistes de Belleville (May)
Belleville: 19th arrondissement, with some sections in the 20th, 10th/11th
(Metro: Belleville or Jourdain) ateliers-artistes-belleville.fr
Belleville is a working class neighborhood with a large immigrant population, adding to its intrigue and diversity. There are some 250 artists and 20 collectives participating in the open studio visits.

Belleville (photo: Amelie Dupont)

Les Ateliers d'Artistes du Père Lachaise (May & Dec)
Père Lachaise: 20th arrondissement (Metro: Dumas or Avron) www.apla.fr/blog
The neighborhood is best known for the famous Père Lachaise Cemetery where the celebrated come to rest--Molière, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Chopin, Edith Piaf, and many other notables. About 40 "living" artists participate in the Portes Ouvertes and there's also a group show.

Portes Ouvertes - Les Frigos (May-June) 

Les Frigos: 19 rue des Frigos; 13th arrondissement (Metro: Bibliothèque François Mitterrand) www.les-frigos.com

Sculptor Jean-Paul Reti at Les Frigos

Les Frigos (The Refrigerators) is a building with studio spaces for about 200 eclectic artists. A former depot for trains carrying fresh produce into Paris, it's one of the only buildings to survive gentrification in this former industrial area on the Seine. Visit during the Portes Ouvertes or by appointment with a resident artist. The wonderful sculptor Jean-Paul Reti is the unofficial “mayor” of Les Frigos; if he’s not busy working on his art, he’s happy to explain the background of the building to visitors. 

Portes Ouvertes - Portes d’Or (June) 

Goutte d’Or: 18th arrondissement (Metro: Château Rouge or Barbès-Rochechouart) www.portesdor.com
The Goutte d’Or (drop of gold), east of Montmartre, is a working-class neighborhood where many North African immigrants live or come to shop, making for lively street scenes. Over 100 artists have studios here. Not to be missed is the work by José Cuneo, originally from Argentina, who makes marvelous, witty, 3-D light-boxes.

Cuneo's 3-D Paris Light Box

Portes Ouvertes des Ateliers de Ménilmontant (Sept)
Ménilmontant: 11th arrondissement (Metro: Ménilmontant or Place Gambetta)
www.ateliersdemenilmontant.org
Over 150 artistes open their studios in Ménilmontant, a hilly, working class area with cobblestone streets and old houses, bordered by Belleville and Père Lachaise. Famous singers Edith Piaf and Maurice Chevalier were born here; it's a fascinating area to discover. 

STREET ART 

While the Portes Ouvertes happen at specific times of year, you can see fantastic street art whenever you're in Paris. Wander around in the Belleville and Ménilmontant neighborhoods. Since the art on the walls is constantly in flux, you can pass by often and see something different as well as some enduring favorites. Or, take an informative, guided tour:

Paris Street Art Tours: These tours, led by a street art aficionado, are extremely-informative (in French or in English). 

Where To Stay: Paris is not only the City of Light, it's the city of fabulous art that will knock your socks off! Here are some equally interesting places to stay.

4 Great Day Trips from NYC: Splendor in the Grass--Outdoor Sculpture

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (New York, NY)

If you need a break from hectic city life, nothing soothes the soul more than art experienced in a beautiful setting.

STORM KING ART CENTER

Old Pleasant Hill Rd., Mountainville, NY; Tel: 845/534-3115; www.stormkingartcenter.org
(Open: April-November; Admission fee)

 Storm King, Maya Lin’s Wavefield (photo: Jerry L. Thompson)

This open-air museum, about an hour north of the city, features monumental sculptures in a Hudson Valley setting so stunning it will take your breath away. Around 100 spectacular works by acclaimed artists such as Alexander Calder, Henry Moore, Isamu Noguchi, and Louise Nevelson along with pieces by contemporary sculptors Andy Goldsworthy and Richard Serra are strategically placed in the fields, hills, and woodlands. Each year, the Center commissions new and exciting work for a special, themed exhibition. Also, be sure to check out Wavefield, an earth and grass installation by celebrated artist Maya Lin.

Storm King, William Lamson’s Solarium, Light and Landscape 

(photo: Jerry L. Thompson)

Spending the Day: 

Get around the 500-acre Storm King grounds by walking, taking a free tram, or renting a bike. There are few shaded areas, so in summertime bring a big hat and/or a parasol and plenty of sunscreen. There’s an open-air café for sandwiches or pack a lunch to be enjoyed at one of the pretty picnic areas.

Getting There: From New York (Port Authority Bus Terminal), take a Coach USA (Short Line) bus direct to Storm King.

GOVERNORS ISLAND

New York Harbor, www.govisland.com

(Open: Daily, year-round; Ferry fee)  

Mark di Suvero, courtesy Storm King 

(photo: JCarnegie)

This lovely spot, 5 minutes from Manhattan Island, was called Nut Island by Native Americans when it was “purchased” by the Dutch in 1637; it became part of New York under the English. Then, for about 200 years, what’s now called Governors Island was a base for the US Army and Coast Guard. Most recently, the Island has been transformed into an artsy recreational area open to the pubic. 

Governors Island, Mark di Suvero, courtesy Storm King 

(photo: Jerry L. Thompson)

Spending the Day: 

Get around Governors Island by walking, bringing a bike, or renting one or a fun Surrey. There's a variety of food vendors, but your best-bet is to pack a lunch and head to Picnic Point with great views of the Statue of Liberty. Some new, fancy options include a Spa with pool & overnight stays via Glamping.

Getting There: Access Governors Island by a quick ferry ride from Manhattan (Battery Maritime Building, next to the Staten Island Ferry Terminal) or Brooklyn (Pier 6 in Brooklyn Bridge Park or Red Hook & NYC Ferry stops).

KYKUIT

Rt. 9, Sleepy Hollow, NY; Tel: 914/631-8200; http://www.hudsonvalley.org/historic-sites/kykuit

(Open: May – November; Admission fee)

Kykuit  (photo: Ben Lee)

Kykuit, the Rockefeller family mansion--now an historic site--less than an hour north of the city, is situated on a bluff providing magnificent views of the Hudson River. The Rockefellers championed modern art, so the house is filled with impressive artwork. But make sure to purchase the tour package that includes the gardens because, on the estate grounds, there’s an absolutely amazing collection of modern sculpture by Picasso, Brancusi, Calder, Giacometti, Henry Moore, Isamu Noguchi, Louise Nevelson, and David Smith.

Kykuit, Max Bill’s Triangular Surface in Space
(photo: Ben Lee)

Spending the Day: 

The only way to visit is on a tour, best booked beforehand; wandering around on your own is not permitted. At Phillpsburg Manor, Kykuit’s Vistor Center, there's a café with sandwiches & salads and picnic tables or stop at a restaurant in Tarrytown: Sweet Grass Grill on Main Street or dine right on the water at the Washington Irving Boat Club.

Getting There: From New York (Grand Central Station), take Metro North train Hudson Line to Tarrytown. Then, a taxi from the station to Phillpsburg Manor, Kykuit’s Vistor Center, where all the tours start.

GROUNDS FOR SCULPTURE

18 Fairgrounds Rd., Hamilton, NJ; Tel: 609/586-0616; www.groundsforsculpture.org

Grounds for Sculpture, Carlos Dorrien’s Nine Muses 

(photo: Ricardo Barros)

(Open: Year-round; Admission fee, Reserve tickets in advance)

In New Jersey, about an hour from New York City, you’ll find one of the most delightful places. In a pretty, 42-acre park surrounding a lake, over 300 sculptures by established and emerging artists are on display. The pieces range from traditional to abstract to whimsical by renowned artists such as Clement Meadmore, Anthony Caro, Beverly Pepper, Kiki Smith, and George Segal.

Grounds for Sculpture, If It Were Time by Seward Johnson, 

a 3-D version of Monet’s painting Terrace at Sainte-Adresse.

Spending the Day: 

Stroll leisurely around the Grounds. (In summertime, bring a hat and/or a parasol & plenty of sunscreen.) The Van Gogh Café is a nice spot for salads & sandwiches. Rat’s Restaurant is a more upscale option for lunch or dinner. (They’ll even prepare a picnic basket for you to enjoy by the lake, as outside food is not allowed). 

Getting There: From New York (Penn Station), take NJ Transit train to Hamilton. Then, a 5-minute taxi ride to Grounds For Sculpture.

Beyond Art: Great Entertainment at 12 Top New York City Museums

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Breaking the Waves, Works & Process,
The Guggenheim

In museums all over town, there's lots more happening than the exhibits on the walls: Music, Dance & Family Fun. New York City museums have become de facto performing arts centers with exciting events, often thematically tied into what's on view. Here's a small sampling to get you started:

UPTOWN - MUSEUM MILE
THE GUGGENHEIM
1071 Fifth Ave (at 88th St); www.guggenheim.org/new-york
Throughout the year, there are several top-notch, special events, so be sure to check the Performance calendar. Works & Process: In an intimate theater space, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, this performing arts series gives you the opportunity to see new works by some of the most acclaimed, international creators and performers in the world.

Peter & the Wolf, The Guggenheim

For the Holidays: Don't miss the divine Isaac Mizrahi production of Prokofiev's Peter and the Wolf and the Rotunda Holiday Concerts--fun for children and adults!

THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

Fuentidueña Chapel, The Cloisters

1000 Firth Ave (at 82nd St); www.metmuseum.org
There is always something cultural happening at the museum from concerts to lectures to site-specific performances. 

MetLiveArts: This series offers interesting performances, commissions, and world premieres in the museum's theater. Site-specific events are set in unique gallery spaces throughout the museum.
THE MET CLOISTERS - Concerts www.metmuseum.org/visit/met-cloisters
In the beautiful, medieval Cloisters' museum in Fort Tyron Park, concerts are held in the splendid, 12th-century Fuentidueña Chapel, with wonderful acoustics. (Concert tickets include free, same-day museum admission.)

THE JEWISH MUSEUM

The Jewish Museum

1109 Fifth Ave (at 92nd St); www.thejewishmuseum.org
The museum offers an amazing range of cultural programs from interesting discussions with artists and curators, to talks by contemporary authors and thinkers, concerts, and other performances and workshops inspired by exhibitions on view.

MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK

El Museo del Barrio 
(photo: Michael Palma Mir)

1220 Fifth Ave (at 103rd St); www.mcny.org

This museum, devoted to New York City history, presents fascinating events and talks illuminating New York's past and imagining the city's future. Check out the Stories & Events calendar. 

EL MUSESO DEL BARRIO

1230 Fifth Ave (at 104th St); www.elmuseo.org
The museum focuses on Latino arts and culture. Its' bilingual programs, festivals, and special events celebrate the rich cultural heritage of the Caribbean and Latin America. Get ready to party!

THE FRICK COLLECTION

1 East 70th Street; https://www.frick.org

The Frick, Living Hall (photo: Michael Bodycomb)

Henry Clay Frick was a successful, robber-baron, industrialist during the Gilded Age who had a passion for art. His magnificent 1914 Beaux-Arts mansion on Fifth Avenue, designed by Carrère and Hastings, was turned into a museum in 1930. Now, after an impressive, major renovation, it’s like walking through a “lifestyle” rather than a museum. In addition to lush 16th- to 18th-century furnishings, paintings (Rembrandts, Van Dykes, Vermeers, Turners, Fragonards, Gainsboroughs, etc.), sculptures, and decorative objects, the family’s former, private rooms on the 2nd floor have been turned into exhibit space. Concerts will be held in a new, state-of-the-art auditorium and a lecture series in a new education center. Welcome to a beautifully-updated, Gilded Age experience!

DOWNTOWN

WHITNEY
99 Gansevoort St; www.whitney.org

Terrace, Whitney

In a downtown area, recently made hip by the fabulous High Line walkway, 20th- and 21st-century American art is celebrated in the museum's new building abuzz with activity. The Whitney Biennial is one of the museum's signature exhibits, along with an exciting, eclectic mix of performances and talks on a regular basis that are tied into current exhibits. Plus, check out the cool events on Free Friday Nights & Free 2nd Sundays. Best feature: The "art terraces" on every level with stunning views of New York and the Hudson River. 

MUSEUM OF JEWISH HERITAGE
Edmond J. Safra Plaza, 36 Battery Place; mjhnyc.org
While not as well known as The Jewish Museum, MJH, located downtown by Battery Park, presents a broad tapestry of Jewish life in the 20th and 21st centuries—before, during, and after the Holocaust. Hence, the engrossing programs include discussions, films, plays, and concerts that highlight the richness of Jewish culture and ideas. (There's also an Andy Goldsworthy stone garden really worth seeing and great views of the Statue of Liberty.)

Pioneer, Seaport Museum

SOUTH STREET SEAPORT MUSEUM
12 Fulton St & 213 Water St; https://southstreetseaportmuseum.org
The museum, on Schermerhorn Row in the historic seaport district, presents the story of New York as a great port city through an extensive collection of maritime artifacts and a fleet of historic vessels. Their newly-renovated A.A. Thomson & Co. building, around the corner on Water Street, is now a hub for any number of engaging, public programs such as lectures, live music, films & special events. And, from May to September, enjoy a sail on the Hudson River onboard the Pioneer schooner or the W.O. Decker tug boat!

WESTSIDE
AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY

Central Park West at 79th St; www.amnh.org

Apex Stegosaurus, AMNH

The museum is a treasure trove of discoveries. In addition to all the interesting exhibits and dioramas, there are wonderful activities for kids and adults: the Astronomy Live series; the annual Margaret Mead Film Festival; cocktails & conversation at the after-hours SciCafe evenings; and family-fun cultural events, themed to tie-in with current exhibits. There's a lot more going on here than dinosaur bones!

         BROOKLYN
BROOKLYN MUSEUM OF ART

The Bang Group, BMA

200 Eastern Pkwy, Brooklyn; www.brooklynmuseum.org
In addition to way-cool exhibits, BMA offers a variety of interesting events for adults, teens, and kids. These include talks, performances, films, and workshops that enhance the museum’s current exhibits and permanent collection. Every month, there's also free First Saturdays which usually feature music, dancing and a film, plus museum admission.

Editor's Note: Some of these wonderful, special museum events are free with admission, others require a separate ticket and/or booking in advance. Be sure to check the museum's website. And, when you enter any museum, be sure to read the signs ("suggested" admission means pay any amount not the $20+ listed). Also, many museums have free or "pay what you wish" evenings starting at around 5pm. The Metropolitan Museum ticket includes same-day admission to The Met Cloisters. Some events may also be offered online. 

5 Not-To-Be-Missed Museums In Paris

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Paris has incredible museums. You already know about the wonderful Louvre and the Musee d‘Orsay, but there are also terrific, smaller museums that are not to be missed. Check out these gems.

Parisian Perspective

Musée Carnavalet 

23 rue de Sevignée; http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr; 3rd arrondissement, Metro: Chemin Vert or Saint Paul (Closed Mondays; Free) - Reopened, after a major renovation

Visiting this marvelous, funky museum is like walking through a history book of the story of Paris. It takes you step-by-step through the city’s development from prehistory, when it was the village of Lutèce, through Roman times, the Renaissance, the French Revolution, the Belle Epoque, and on to today. Be sure to start at the beginning, to get the full effect. After you’ve traveled through time, relax in the beautiful, courtyard gardens. App: "Musée Carnavalet" - Discover Paris' history with the aid of the museum App (in 6 languages).

Magnificent Masterpieces

Musée Jacquemart-André 

158 Blvd Haussmann; https://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com; 8th arrondissement, Metro: Miromesnil or Saint Philippe du Roule (Open daily, Fee.) 

This 19th-century mansion is as much a work of art as the masterpieces it houses. Edouard André, from a prominent banking family, and his artist wife, Nélie Jacquemart, had a passion for collecting art. They traveled extensively gathering paintings, sculpture, tapestries, furniture, and objects d’art. Their collection includes works by Botticelli, Chardin, Fragonard, Mantegna, Rembrandt & Van Dyck. There’s even a room devoted entirely to Renaissance paintings. This sumptuously-decorated museum gives you a glimpse into the elegant lifestyle of the Belle Epoque. There's also a sumptuous café with a terrace overlooking the inner courtyard. App: "Jacquemart-André Museum"

Sensational Sculpture

Musée Bourdelle

18 rue Antoine Bourdelle; http://www.bourdelle.paris.fr; 15th arrondissement, Metro: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe (Closed Mondays; Free; Fee for temp exhibits)

Antoine Bourdelle studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris and became an assistant to Rodin in 1893. Bourdelle’s colossal sculptures are on display in his former home, studio and garden, tucked away on a side street in the bustling Montparnasse district. The lovely garden is a great spot to repose after hours of sightseeing; there's also a new café-restaurant. 

Musée Zadkine 

100 bis, rue d'Assas; http://www.zadkine.paris.fr; 6th arrondissement, Metro: Vavin or Notre Dame des Champs (Closed Mondays; Free; Fee for temp exhibits)

Russian sculptor Ossip Zadkine came to Paris in the early 1900s. He lived and worked in this tranquil spot near the Jardin de Luxembourg from 1928 to 1967. The collection, displayed in his former atelier and a little garden, features abstract sculptures along with paintings, drawings, tapestries, and photos documenting the work.

Architectural Artistry

Fondation Le Corbusier 

8-10 Square du Docteur Blanche; http://www.fondationlecorbusier.fr;

16th arrondissement, Metro: Jasmin or Michel-Ange - Auteuil (Closed Sundays & Monday mornings; Fee)

For lovers of architecture and modern design, it’s worth a trip to these beautifully-preserved structures by the famous architect Le Corbusier (Charles-Édouard Jeanneret-Gris). In a cul-de-sac off Rue du Docteur Blanche, there are two houses, built in 1924: 

Maison La Roche (https://bit.ly/1rv5tZR, open to visitors) - This is a wonderful example of Le Corrbusier’s work. Commissioned by Raoul La Roche, who wanted a house with a gallery to display his art collection. Maison Jeanneret (library visits by appointment only) houses the Foundation. 

Appartement de Le Corbusier (24 rue Nungesser et Coli; https://bit.ly/1k3Ogev; 16th arrondissement, Metro: Michel-Ange – Molitor or Porte d'Auteuil; One metro stop or a 20 minute walk from the Foundation) - Le Corbusier lived and worked in this apartment and studio on the top floors of Immeuble Molitor from about 1934 until his death in 1965. The light-filled, vaulted space is still decorated with his personal belongings; a treat for Le Corbusier aficionados.

***

Editor’s Note: 1) Some COVID protocols may still apply such as mask-wearing & advanced ticket purchase. Be sure to check each museum's website. 2) Get the most out of your upcoming visit with this guide: THE ARTSY VOYAGER: 101 Artsy & Cool Things To Do in Paris https://amzn.to/38J45Bh

Paris: View Art in 7 Unexpected Places

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (Paris, France)
Paris is a city filled with art everywhere you turn, not only in its famous museums, but also in some of the most unexpected places:

1) IN A DEPARTMENT STORE
Galerie des Galeries - Les Galeries Lafayette
40 Blvd Haussmann; Tel: 01/42-82-81-98; www.galeriedesgaleries.com

GL, Au dela du vetement  (photo: Marc Domange)

9th arrondissement, Metro: Chaussée d'Antin
(Open: Tues-Sun, 11am-7pm; Free)
Shop till you drop, then proceed to the 1st floor of the Galeries Lafayette’s main building. Across from the designers’ section, you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find the Galerie des Galeries, an exhibition space that presents established and emerging talent. Four annual exhibits showcase French and international artists, highlighting the relationship between fashion, the visual arts, and design. 

2) IN A PARK

Parc de Belleville

Rue des Couronnes (enter at rue Piat); http://bit.ly/1VmMXU2; 20th arrondissement, Metro: Belleville or Pyrénées

Street Art (photo: J. Carnegie)

The Belleville neighborhood is a melting pot of cultures. In the park, at the top of a hill, is a lookout point decorated with wonderful street art, often the work of community projects. The park itself is beautiful, accessible from a staircase, then up winding pathways past vine-covered pergolas. It’s worth the climb for the street art and the spectacular views of Paris--yes, you can see the Eiffel Tower from here.

3) IN A CHIC HOTEL
Art District Gallery - Le Royal Monceau Hotel
41 Ave Hoche; Tel: 01/45-75-27-48; https://bit.ly/2vrgUxj   
8th arrondissement, Metro: Charles de Gaulle Étoile or Ternes

(Open: Tues-Sun, 11am-7pm; Free)
Art lives at this snazzy hotel, renovated by famed designer Philippe Starck. The Art District Gallery puts on about four annual exhibits of contemporary work by important photographers, visual artists, and designers--retrospectives and premieres. The hotel also has an impressive art bookstore, La Librairie des Arts, and a dedicated “art concierge” to help guests get the most out of the Paris art scene.

4) IN A FORMER WAREHOUSE
Lafayette Anticipations
9 Rue du Plâtre; Tel: 01/42-82-89-98; www.lafayetteanticipations.com
4th arrondissement, Metro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville
(Open: Wed-Sun, 11am-7pm; Free)

Julien Creuzet, In my hands
(photo: Pierre Antoine)

In the chic Marais district, the Fondation Galeries Lafayette had starchitect Rem Koolhaas/OMA transform a 19-century department store warehouse into a truly cool new contemporary art, performance and exhibition space for local and international work. The space also serves as an "arts incubator"--providing artists the room to work on new creations. In addition to viewing exhibits & performances, you can take a fascinating architectural tour of the building. Afterwards, hangout in the lobby atrium, have an ultra-healthy snack at the Pluto cafe, and check out the bookstore.

5) IN A WAY-COOL POOL
Molitor - Les Cabines d'Artistes
2 Avenue de la Porte Molitor (pool entrance), 16th arrondissement, Metro: Michel-ange Molitor or Porte d’Auteuil

artist: Logan Hicks

In 1929, the Piscines Molitor--two magnificent, art-deco-style public pools--were built (outdoor & indoor) surrounded by three floors of changing room cubicles. Sadly, the pools closed in 1989 and the abandoned location became a hub for graffiti artists. Happily (although not all Parisians are in agreement), the complex was restored and became a stylish, luxury hotel, Molitor, with a commitment to art. Thus, some 70 international street artists were invited to use the former changing cubicles (les cabines) as canvases, turning them into a unique gallery of contemporary urban art. If not a hotel guest, here are two ways to see Les Cabines d'Artistes: 1) Self-guided tour (free): Wednesdays from 6pm-7pm, reserve via the website. The Molitor’s artistic director, Sylvia Randazzo, will be on hand to answer any questions. 2) Guided tour (fee): On Saturday mornings, Sylvia will lead a small-group tour (in French); must reserve via the website.

6) IN THE STREET

Le M.U.R.
Corner of rue Oberkampf & rue Saint Maur; 11th arrondissement, Metro: Parmentier or Rue St-Maur; www.lemur.fr

Le M.U.R., Lady M (photo: H. Laxenaire)

Artist Jean Faucheur, founder of “The Wall” - Le M.U.R. (Modulable, Urbain, Réactif), came up with the concept of putting original works of art by contemporary, urban artists up on a wall on the rue Oberkampf in the 11th arrondissement. Every two weeks, the artwork changes. Since there are two great cafés, La Place Verte (105 rue Oberkampf), right in front of the wall, and the famous Café Charbon (109 rue Oberkampf), just behind it, you’ve got reason enough to stop by often to check out The Wall.

Les Frigos (photo: Mbzt/WikiCommons)

7) IN A NEIGHBORHOOD
Les Frigos
19 rue des Frigos; www.les-frigos.com; 13th arrondissement, Metro: Bibliothèque François Mitterrand
(Open: On Open House days or by appointment with one of the artists)

J-P Reti

Les Frigos (photo: Prissantenbär/WikiCommons)

This former industrial area, on the Seine in the 13th arrondissement, was transformed into a neighborhood that looks like The Jetsons live here. One of the few buildings to survive gentrification is Les Frigos (The Refrigerators), a former storage depot for fresh produce brought into Paris by train. Now, it provides studio space for some 120 eclectic creatives. You can visit the artists' studios on Portes Ouvertes (Open House) days, usually at the end of May. At other times, certain artists hold Open Studio events. You can also view each artist’s work on the website and contact them directly. The fascinating sculptor, Jean-Paul Reti, is the unofficial “mayor” of Les Frigos and, if he’s not busy working on his art, he’s happy to explain the background of the building to visitors.