Discover France’s La Vendée Region, Part 3: Noirmoutier – Island Life: Sun, Sand, Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes!

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Noirmoutier (photo: @lenamrzl)

La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western coast. It’s known for its’ lovely, beach towns such as Les Sables-d'Olonne and its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. Then, there’s Noirmoutier—an island that’s about as idyllic as beach life could get: totally peaceful and extremely picturesque. The French and other Europeans like to vacation here, and you will too. There’s great food, beautiful beaches, and some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France! 
11 GREAT REASONS TO VISIT NOIRMOUTIER ISLAND
Apart from by boat, for centuries, the only way to reach Noirmoutier Island was via the Passage du Gois, a tidal causeway only accessible at low tide. Finally, in 1971, a bridge was built making this vacation paradise more accessible. The best times to visit: April, May & June (to avoid the summer crowds) and September (if the weather is good).
1) Get Ready To Unwind: Complete Serenity
Maybe it’s the light or the microclimate (mild winters and temperate summers), but the moment you arrive, you relax. You’ll be charmed by the pretty surroundings, the lovely villages, the sunny weather, the crystal-blue water, the nice beaches, the simple, carefree lifestyle, the traditional white houses with blue shutters, the scent of mimosas…the food!
2) Explore The Island
It’s confusing, so just to be clear, the island is: l'Île de Noirmoutier. The main town is: Noirmoutier-en-l'île -- filled with cute, little shops, lots of great restaurants, and several historic sites.

Noirmoutier-en-ile (photo: @Trendz)

Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’île &/or Rue de Polder, Barbâtre) - First, stop at the tourism office for some itinerary suggestions & to pick up a map. Then, drive around or, since the island is relatively flat, go exploring by bike.
Visit the Villages & Neighborhoods: Barbâtre, la Guérinière, l'Épine, l'Herbaudière & Noirmoutier-en-l'île. L'Herbaudière Port: A lively fishing port with a marina, souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. Bois de la Chaise: An area of lovely villas and chalets surrounded by picturesque pines, mimosa & oak trees. See the Windmills – Since the 7th century, there have been windmills on the island. Of the 32 erected during the 19th century, 23 remain; several have been turned into unique, vacation homes.
3) Relax at The Beach

Plage des Dames (photo: J.Carnegie)

Noirmoutier is an island in the Bay of Biscay, so there are lovely beaches everywhere you turn. Some of the most popular: Plage des Dames, Plage des Sableaux, Anse Rouge & La Madeleine. Go to several and see which ones you like best!
4) Get A Refreshing Workout – Sports Galore
There are lots of water sports to enjoy: kitesurfing, paddleboarding, kayaking, water skiing, scuba diving, sailing, etc.
In addition to biking around the island, there are beautiful places to stroll and hike: along the beaches, through the salt marshes, and on lovely trails in the woods: Forêt de la Frandière in Barbâtre, Bois des Eloux in L'Epine & Bois de la Chaise in Noirmoutier. Plus: Horseback riding, tennis, fishing, etc.
5) Discover The Island’s Food Heritage: Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes
Noirmoutier’s year-round inhabitants are people who’ve lived off the land & sea for generations: mostly fisherman, potato farmers, and salt harvesters.
Salt: In the 7th century, Benedictine monks began transforming the island’s wetlands into salterns--basins where salt is cultivated. Today, there are about 100 salt harvesters (saunier) on the island, using traditional methods to harvest the “white gold” Fleur de sel.

Noirmoutier Potatoes (photo: Julien Gazeau)

Seafood: More than 100 fishing boats unload their catches here daily, including sole, sea bass, striped mullet, lobsters, etc. Locals also like to dig for clams & shrimp and harvest oysters & the delectable bouchot mussels.
Potatoes: Noirmoutier is famous for its’ potatoes--the Sirtema, the Lady Cristl, the Charlotte, but especially the Bonnotte. Planted by hand, grown in sandy soil, and fertilized with seaweed, which gives them their unique flavor.
Les Saveurs de l'ile de Noirmoutier - You can find these and other specialties such as cookies & pastries at little shops and at weekly “Farmers’ Markets” throughout the island. All local products are certified; look for the label Saveurs de l’île de Noirmoutier (Flavors of Noirmoutier Island).
6) Enjoy Some of The Most Delicious Meals You’ll Ever Eat
The chefs here benefit from the island’s bounty to create amazing dishes. Each restaurant offers its own take on Noirmoutier's cuisine. There are many to choose from; start with these: 
Le 11 (11 Quai Cassard, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 11 11; https://le11denoirmoutier.com) - Right on the waterfront, a casual, very-friendly spot with tasty meals; try their special: Fish & Chips.

Bouchot Mussels (photo; @Trendz)

Le P’tit Noirmout (10 Rue du Marché, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 79 52; https://www.le-ptit-noirmout.com) - Good food in a lively, fun atmosphere.
Le Petit Bouchot (3 Rue Saint-Louis, Noirmoutier-en-l'île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 32 56; https://www.restaurant-noirmoutier.com) - Delicious meals in a very staid, traditional setting.
La Potinière (27 Ave Georges Clemenceau, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 09 61; https://potinierenoirmoutier.com) – A very-modern fish & seafood place, right at the beach, Plage des Dames in Bois de la Chaise.
La Marine*** (5 Rue Marie Lemonnier, L'Herbaudière, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 23 09; https://www.alexandrecouillon.com) - Michelin 3-star restaurant, booked a year in advance. Chef Alexandre Couillon uses only the freshest, local ingredients: seafood right from the port across the street and herbs & vegetables from his own “kitchen garden.” His wife Céline also runs the more-casual, bistro next door La Table d'Elise. Can’t get into either, get some tasty goodies at their little pastry/grocery shop, Le Petit Couillon.
7) Go on a Guided Tour
Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’ile; Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 80 71) - The Tourism Office offers several interesting Tours (only in French), but some you could enjoy anyway such as a boating excursion. It’s worth checking out what they have to offer. In addition…

Marais Salants (photo: Simon Bourcier)

Visite des Marais Salants – Visit a salt basin to see how the Fleur de sel is harvested. (Marais de Bonne Pogne: May-Sept, tour in English.)
Visite de la Criée à L'Herbaudière Port – Tour the port and the “criée” (fish auction market) where all the fishing boats unload their daily catch. (Tour in French only.) 
8) Take Part In Unique Island Activities
La Fête de la Bonnotte (May) – On the 1st Saturday in May, Noirmoutier’s illustrious Bonnotte potato is feted with an elaborate, communal meal followed by a concert. In the morning, you can go into the fields to pick your own potatoes.
Les Foulées du Gois (June) – Athletes race across the Passage du Gois against the rising tide. Or, just consult the tide schedule and walk or bike across any time at your leisure.
9) Learn More About The Island’s Historic Heritage
Noirmoutier-en-l'île has several historic sites to visit:

Windmill house (photo: J.Carnegie)

Château de Noirmoutier (Place d'Armes) – This 12th century castle is now a museum. Climb to the top for a great panoramic view.

Hôtel Jacobsen (Rue Saint Louis) – Once the home of the influential Jacobsen family, it’s now a maritime-history museum.
Église Saint-Philbert (2 rue du Cheminet) – This 11th century church was built on the grounds of the former Benedictine Abbey, founded in 674 by the monk Saint-Philbert.
10) Be Entertained
Les Salorges (22 Quai Jean Bart, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île) - At this performance center, even if you don’t speak French, there are lots of dance & concert programs to enjoy as well as many programs for kids.
Several cafés in the various villages have live music in the evenings and, if you speak &/or understand French, go to the movies: Le Mimosa (73 Ave Joseph Pineau, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île). 
11) Be Welcomed Like Family
The people in all the shops, restaurants, and guesthouses are very welcoming—especially if you arrive off-season, in the spring or fall, as I’m recommending.
Where To Stay: There’s everything from hotels to Maison d'hôtes (guesthouses) to camping grounds and rental homes. Here’s a lovely place to start: 

The Corner

The Corner - Maison d'hôtes (2 rue du Général Leclerc, Noirmoutier-en-l’île;
Tel: +33 (0)6 09 86 17 79; https://www.thecorner-no.fr) - When traveling to some place you’ve never been before, it’s nice to be welcomed with open arms. The Corner, is owned by an American, Diane, and her French-chef husband, Raphael. It’s like staying with family you just never met before. Located in the center of lovely Noirmoutier-en-l’île, right by all the cute little shops, the house dates from 1814 and was the home of the former mayor. Completely renovated, today there are 5 beautifully-decorated guest rooms—perfect for romantic getaways. And, in the adjoining property, there are larger rooms great for families or groups of friends traveling together. The amount of thought and attention to detail that has gone into decorating & outfitting each guest room is truly amazing. That, plus Chef Raphael’s delicious meals makes The Corner the perfect place to start your vacation on Noirmoutier Island.
Getting Around: You can rent a car or a bike or hop on the little

Passage de Gois (photo: @alamoureux)

tourist train, Noirmout'Train. 

Getting There: From Paris: SNCF Train to Nantes with a connecting bus, Aléop coach #13 (2hrs & 1.5hrs). Airport: Nantes Atlantique (then an hour drive to the island). Or, consult the tide schedule and drive, bike or walk across the Passage du Gois!

10 Great Reasons To Explore 3 Fab Islands Near Cancun, Mexico: Holbox, Isla Mujeres & Cozumel

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Isla Mujeres (photo: Quintana Roo Tourism)

Cancun is a fantastic destination that’s easy to get to from almost anywhere. It’s on the Yucatan Peninsula in the state of Quintana Roo which also includes the magnificent islands of Holbox, Isla Mujeres, and Cozumel—all worth exploring as part of your vacation experience. 

ISLA HOLBOX
On Holbox, there is something magical in the air. Once you arrive, you will absolutely not want to leave. Situated at the northeast corner of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, Holbox is a 26-mile-long island separated from the mainland by the Yalahau lagoon. Holbox (pronounded Hol-bosh) is a Maya word meaning “black hole,” referring to the lagoon’s dark water, which you cross in a 30-minute ferry ride to the island from the tiny town of Chiquilá, 2-hours north of Cancun.

Holbox (photo: JCarnegie)

 Holbox is located in a unique oceanic spot: where the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea converge. So, the surrounding waters are teeming with marine life—turtles, dolphins, whale sharks--in addition to some 500 bird species that nest in the area. Hence, the Island is part of the protected Yum Balam Nature Reserve. Originally a fishing village, the picturesque town on Holbox has colorful, wooden houses, a smattering of little shops, bars, restaurants, a pizza & ice-cream parlor—plus, lots of street art. Isla Holbox is a laid-back place with only sandy, dirt roads and no cars; just golf carts and 4x4 taxis to get around. With friendly locals and magnificent beaches, you’ll soon discover that Holbox is a true paradise on earth.
Unique To Dos
Blue Waves Holbox Tours offers several cool ways to experience the island:
Bioluminescence Tour – This is done at night to see the phytoplankton’s luminescent effect in the ocean around Holbox that looks like fireflies underwater. Wade in the water, swim in it or kayak around to experience this beautiful, natural phenomenon.
Three Islands Tour - Isla Pájaros: See bird species such as white ibis, egrets, pelicans, spoonbills, herons & flamingos. Isla Pasión: Climb up the observation tower on this little, deserted island with a beach awash in seashells. Yalahau parque ecoturistico: Swim in a crystal-clear “cenote.”

Where To Stay: From basic to luxurious, there’s lots of accommodation choices from rustic bungalows to hostels to lovely boutique hotels such as Hotel Villas Caracol - Great beach location, super-friendly staff, nice rooms & pretty pool, plus delicious meals in their Las Hamacas restaurant & beach club.
Getting Around on Holbox: No cars, just golf carts to rent and 4x4 taxis—yellow ones waiting at the ferry.

Holbox town (photo: Quintana Roo Tourism)

Getting There: Holbox is a 2-hour drive north of Cancun, plus a ½ hour ferry ride from Chiquilá to Isla Holbox—worth every minute. From Cancun Airport or downtown Cancun to Chiquilá (87 miles/140 km) there are several options (but I wouldn’t recommend renting a car as none are allowed on Isla Holbox); prices in Mexican $: Shared or Private Shuttle: 
Cancun Airport–Chiquila Port (Holbox ferry); ADO bus: Cancun airport/downtown-Chiquilá, Quintana Roo, Mexico (the cheapest option); Ferry: Holbox Express

ISLA MUJERES
Just a 30-minute ferry ride from Cancun, Isla Mujeres is only 5-miles-long and half-a-mile wide, but it’s a vacation wonderland known for beautiful, white-sand beaches and aquamarine water. You can be as active or relaxed as you’d like.
Go snorkeling, scuba-diving, kayaking, or biking around the island. Or, just chill-out at a lovely beach club. Playa Norte is the most famous beach, also known for great sunsets. In ancient times, Isla Mujeres was a sanctuary for the Maya goddess Ixchel. At Punta Sur, you can explore this history and see splendid sunrises. Other activities include: exploring the island by golf-cart, swimming with whale sharks, or boating to the nearby Isla Contoy National Park. For shopping, entertainment, bars and restaurants, stroll along Isla Mujeres’ main drag, Avenida Hidalgo. In the evenings, there’s live music and dancing in the street.
One thing to keep in mind: Isla Mujeres is an extremely popular destination. If possible, consider a visit during off-season, May-October. Otherwise, there are an enormous number of tourists, not only those staying on the island, but also many day-trippers as it’s so close to Cancun.

Punta Sur (photo: JCarnegie)

Unique To Dos
Beach Clubs - Hanging out at a Beach Club is a very popular way to spend the day on Isla Mujeres. Most offer food & drinks, the use of sunbeds, loungers, palapas, hammocks, toilets & showers. Some even have sports activities & swimming pools. Depending on the club, there’s either an all-inclusive entrance fee or free entrance with a food/drink purchase. (Some popular ones: Guru, Zama, Amazona)
Amazing Seafood - Mar-Bella Fish Market Raw Bar & Grill restaurant - From the ocean to your plate. An incredible seafood selection served in a lovely, beachfront location. (The Amazona Beach Club in right next door.)
Punta Sur & Sculpture Park (entrance fee) - Punta Sur is a stunning, cliffside location with incredible views. It’s also the site of Templo Ixchel ruins, thought to have also been a Mayan lighthouse. And, the Punta Sur Sculpture Garden. Mexican and international artists have created sculptures that represent the spirit of Maya civilization. Take a stroll around this beautiful site, also renowned for sunrise-watching.
Swim with Whale Sharks - Whale Sharks congregate near Isla Mujeres (June-Sept), go for a memorable dip with them.
Baby Turtle Release - During the Sea Turtle nesting season in the Mexican Caribbean (May-Nov), there’s a release program (ask where at your hotel as the Tortugranja Turtle Farm is currently closed for renovation).

Where To Stay: North end of the island - to be in the middle of the action or South end - a quieter location. There are options for every budget from hostels and Bed & Breakfasts, to boutique hotels, private villas, and deluxe, all-inclusive resorts. For day-trippers, Hotel Riu Caribe in Cancun is a really nice, all-inclusive, near all the ferry ports.
Getting Around on Isla Mujeres: 

Ferry Cancun to Isla Mujeres (photo: JCarnegie)

Rent a golf cart (carrito de golf) bike or motorcycle on Rueda Medina right across the street from the ferry. Taxis at the ferry.
Getting There: From Cancun, it’s a 30-minute ferry trip. There are several ferry ports, easily-reachable by local taxi: Puerto Juárez, El Embarcadero, Playa Tortugas or Playa Caracol. Ferry: Ultramar

ISLA COZUMEL
Cozumel is a terrific vacation destination about a 45-minute ferry ride from Playa del Carmen, an hour south of Cancun. Cozumel is a bit larger than the other islands, some 30-miles-long and 10-miles-wide, with spectacular coral reefs perfect for scuba diving or snorkeling, amazing beaches, water sports, and a history of Maya culture.
On Cozumel, 75% of the land is a federally-protected, natural reserve as are its’ famous arrecifes (reefs), Arrecifes de Cozumel National Park, which are part of the Mesoamerican system, the largest barrier reef in the Western hemisphere. In fact, the famous French explorer Jacques Cousteau declared Cozumel one of the most beautiful scuba-diving areas in the world.

Cozumel Punta Sur (photo: JCarnegie)

 While Cozumel may be a diver’s paradise, there are many other things to do on this beautiful island. It’s a very popular stop on Caribbean cruises. The town of San Miguel has great shopping and dining, and the not-to-be-missed Cozumel Museum has incredible exhibits on the fascinating history, culture, geography, and ecosystems of the island.
Unique To Dos
Pueblo del Maiz (entrance fee) - Experience the ancestral heritage of the Maya culture in this recreated, ancient Mayan village. Learn about the goddess Ixchel, the importance of corn, and the origin of chewing gum. Make authentic tamales and chocolate from cocoa beans. Find out how the Maya respected the natural world, made thread for textiles from plants, and let nothing go to waste.
Punta Sur – Eco Beach Park (entrance fee) - Punta Sur is an ecological park at the southern end of the island; a nature preserve with beautiful beaches. Experience Cozumel’s incredible natural habitat as well as go for a swim & soak up some rays. Take a boat ride on the lagoons through the mangrove marshlands to see crocodiles and birds, then hang out at one of Punta Sur’s snack bar/beach clubs. Before leaving, climb to the top of the lighthouse for great views.
Chankanaab Park (entrance fee) - Located inside Cozumel’s National Reef Marine Park, this adventure park has something for everyone: picturesque grounds with gardens and nature trails; diving and snorkeling tours on the Chankanaab Reef; a sea lion show for the kids and tequila tastings for the adults. There’s a lovely beach area, spa, and restaurants.

Where To Stay: Lots of options from budget to boutique hotels and all-inclusive resorts. Try some place unique such as Ventanas al Mar an eco-friendly, oceanfront hotel on Cozumel’s unspoiled East Coast.
Getting Around on Cozumel: Car Rental – It’s a big island with lots to see. 
Other options: Rent a jeep or bikes, take taxis or just go on a selection of island tours.

Yucatan, Quintana Roo map

Getting There: The 45-minute ferry ride to Cozumel leaves from Playa del Carmen, about an hour south of Cancun. Getting from Cancun to Playa del Carmen: ADO bus: Cancun Airport–Playa del Carmen (Once in Playa, the ferry terminal is just a short walk from the bus station.) Shared or 
Private Shuttle: Cancun Airport–Playa del Carmen; Ferry from Playa del Carmen: Ultramar (Blue/Yellow) or Winjet (Orange). Onboard the ferries, there’s great live-music that makes the trip fun. Fly: Cozumel has an airport (CZM) with direct flights from many destinations.

KEEP IN MIND: All major airlines fly into Cancun. Quintana Roo is taking steps to protect its cultural and natural heritage. Please use biodegradable sunscreen & bug spray; while swimming in a cenote or diving on the reefs, no sunscreen is allowed at all. Please help keep this natural wonderland as pristine as possible & have a terrific time on the Mexican Caribbean!

Discover France’s La Vendée Region: Part I: Les Sables-d'Olonne - A Seaside Haven for Lovers of Sailing, Seafood & Sandy Beaches!

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Les Sables d'Olonne (photo: Alexandre Lamoureux)

La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western, Atlantic coast (below Nantes and above La Rochelle). While La Vendée is not as well-known to Americans as Provence or Normandy, it's a place where the French and other Europeans like to vacation. It's known for its long coastline, sandy beaches & Noirmoutier Island as well as its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. There’s great food, plus plenty to see and do. Also, La Vendée has some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France!
SO MUCH TO “SEA” - LES SABLES-D'OLONNE: VILLE BALNEAIRE
Along La Vendée’s coastline, called France’s Côte de Lumière (Coast of Light), there are several lovely villes balnéaires (beach towns). Les Sables-d'Olonne is one of the most popular with so much to offer:
10+ UNIQUE THINGS TO DO IN SABLES-D'OLONNE
For centuries, Les Sables-d'Olonne has been home to sailors, seafarers, and fishermen. Today, these old-world traditions continue in a town enhanced by modern-day comforts and lots of enjoyable activities.

Raphael Toussaint "La Villa Blanche, Les Sables d'Olonne"

Explore the Town
- Go For A Promenade: Start your visit with a walk on Le Remblai, the oceanfront promenade, lined with restaurants, cafes, and shops.
- Stroll Through The Neighborhoods: This is a very walkable town with lots to see along the way. The narrow streets are lined with different types of houses from modest fishermen’s homes to fancy beach villas. La Chaume is the oldest section of town, still inhabited by fishermen. Les Sables' historic Le Passage district has old shipowners' houses and one of the narrowest streets in the world, Rue de l'Enfer. In the L'île Penotte neighborhood, local artist Danièle Arnaud Aubin has covered the walls with delightful, seashell mosaic murals.
- Check Out The Shopping: In the Centre-Ville (Town Center) around the
Notre Dame de Bon Port, one of Les Sables’ oldest churches from 1646, classified as a monument historique, there are “rues piétonnes” (pedestrian streets) lined with lovely boutiques: Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, Rue des Halles & Rue Jean Moulin. Nearby, feast on a vast array of local produce 

Marché des Halles Centrales (photo: S. Bourcier)

in the Marché des Halles Centrales, a stunning, cast-iron & glass covered, food market, designed by local architect Charles Smolski in 1890.

Visites Guidées (Guided Tours in French & English): You can explore all these places on your own or go on a tour organized by Les Sables-d’Olonne Tourism Office (Tel: +33 2 51 96 85 85)

Take Advantage of All the Options
- Do Some Sunbathing: On the Grande Plage, the town beach, or go further up the coast to the magnificent Plage de Paracou, Plage d’Aubraie & Plage de Granges, where there’s a surf school.

Plage d’Aubraie (photo: J.Carnegie)

- Enjoy All The Culture: Go to the Musée de l'Abbaye Sainte-Croix (MASC) – a wonderful modern & contemporary art collection. For WWII history buffs, there’s the Musée Blockhaus Hôpital – a restored, German hospital bunker from 1943. Seashell collectors will lose their mind in the fabulous Musée du Coquillage. Plus, attend concerts and all-manner of events & happenings in season. This is a French, seaside town so, of course, there’s a casino; place your bets at the Casino des Atlantes or the Casino JOA Les Pins.

- Get Some Exercise: In addition to beachcombing, hiking and biking are popular activities here along with all the usual offerings: golf, tennis, swimming, etc.
- Fun for the Kids: There’s a zoo and an aquarium and a million other great activities for children.

Experience The Best: Sailing, Seafood & Salt
- Sail Away: Whether a novice or an experienced sailor, Les Sables’s Port Olona marina is the spot for you. The Sports Nautiques Sablais offers sailing for every level and at the Institut Sports Océan indulge in any number of nautical activities--sailing, surfing, windsurfing, kayaking, etc. 

(photo: Vendée Globe)

Vendée Globe: This is of special interest to sailing enthusiasts. The Vendée Globe is a prestigious, solo, unassisted, around-the-world, non-stop yacht race for the top sailors in the world. It takes place every four years (the 11th edition will be in 2028). The race starts & finishes in Les Sables-d'Olonne. There are usually around 40 international, world-class competitors. Start planning if you'd like to attend the next one as spectator or sailor! Get a ring-side seat in the Vendée Globe Village, this special area is set up on the Port Olona esplanade. There are also several “Hospitality Package” offerings.

- Feast On Sensational Seafood: Les Sables-d'Olonne’s Port de Pêche is one of France’s main fishing ports with catch such as sole, sea bass, hake, cuttlefish, tuna fish, crustaceans…and, a Vendéen specialty: sardines. This tasty, fresh-from-the-ocean seafood can be enjoyed at restaurants throughout town.
- Learn About “White Gold”: The Salt Of The Sea: In medieval times, Olonne salt was highly-prized and it’s still considered “white gold.” Today, you can visit the salt marshes--which look like a beautiful, tranquil nature sanctuary—on your own or on a tour (in French only). Salt forms when sea water, brought into the marsh basins, evaporates due to the sun & wind. Fine salt (fleur de sel) crystallizes on the surface of the basins and coarse salt on the bottom. By springtime, the salt is ready to be harvested and you can watch a demonstration.

Dine In Style: At these restaurants, the fish is so fresh it’s as if it leapt from the ocean onto your plate:

(photo: StudioBCarre)

Le Poisson Rouge (20 Quai Guiné) – Delicious dining.
Restaurant Le Port (24 Quai George V) – The freshest seafood & friendliest service.
La Suite SVP (20 Bd Roosevelt) - Nouvelle cuisine by chef Mélanie Sire.
La Pendule (67 Promenade Georges Clemenceau) – Crêperie right on Le Remblai.
Where To Stay: There is every kind of accommodation: hotels, bed & breakfasts, vacation rentals, etc. Hotel Coeur Marin (8 Bd Franklin Roosevelt) – A pleasant, conveniently-located option with a friendly staff.
Getting There: By train: TGV, Paris - Les Sables d'Olonne (about 3½ hrs).
By plane: Nantes-Atlantique airport or La Rochelle/Ile de Ré airport (1½ hrs).

Beyond the Beach: 5 Things You Didn't Know You Could Do in Curaçao

By Jacquelin Carnegie
The island of Curaçao, in the Dutch Caribbean (formally the Netherlands Antilles), is right next to Aruba and well worth a visit. This island has beautiful beaches and a fascinating history. 

 Willemstad
(photo: Curaçao Tourist Board)

Plus, it’s outside the hurricane zone! In addition to lounging on a beach chair, you can visit Curaçao's beautiful capital, Willemstad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, filled with lovely, restored Dutch colonial buildings, great shopping, waterfront restaurants, and interesting historic sights. If a destination wedding appeals to you, get married in the oldest synagogue or in a beautiful old church. Already got kids: go on an ostrich safari. Into wellness: try herbal remedies. Interested in history: visit an anthropological museum and take a culinary/cultural walking tour, then head back to the beach and relax.
TAKE A CULINARY WALKING TOUR
Culinary/Cultural Walking Tour

Floating Market
(image: Baselmans)

(Clarita, claritahagenaar@hotmail.com; Cell/WhatsApp: 005999 684 0373) - A wonderful way to explore Curaçao's culture is through food. Go on a culinary stroll through the historic, old town of Willemstad, stopping for a fruit smoothie in the Otrobanda neighborhood before crossing the bridge into the Punda district. Check out the fresh fruits and veggies at the Floating Market, examine the day’s catch at the new Round Market. Then, have lunch with the locals at the Old Market (Yvonne di Plaza’s booth is a good pick).

TRY HERBAL REMEDIES
Den Paradera: Dinah Veeris’ Botanical Garden
Seru Grandi Kavel 105A, Banda Riba; www.dinahveeris.com 
Dinah Veeris provides traditional, Caribbean herbal treatments by propagating over 300 species of wild medicinal plants in her botanical garden. Visit and try some of the remedies from herbal creams to coconut soap.
Aloe Vera Farm  

Kura Hulanda's beach 

Kaminda Mitologia 138, Willemstad; www.curaloe.com
Aloe Vera contains more than 75 nutrients. The gel is considered a “miracle cure” for the skin and the juice is recommended as a nutritional supplement. Learn how it’s harvested and processed and pick up some pure aloe products.

GIVE YOUR KIDS A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE
The Curaçao Ostrich Farm 

(photo: Ostrich Farm)

West Groot Sint Joris, Santa Catharina; curacaoostrichfarm.com
If you’re traveling with kids, take a “photo safari” ride through the farm and learn all about these weird and wonderful birds; it’s a fun and educational experience. Afterwards, if you’re brave enough, chow down on an ostrich burger in the lovely open-air restaurant.

VISIT A FASCINATING MUSEUM & ART GALLERIES
Kurá Hulanda Museum

Klipstraat 9, Otrobanda, Willemstad; www.kurahulanda.com
After soaking up some rays, spend time in this fascinating, anthropological museum. The exhibits focus on the predominant cultures of Curaçao offering a world-class chronicle of the Origin of Man, the African slave trade, West African Empires, Mesopotamian relics and Antillean art.

Market (artist: Jan "Jakke" Francke) -
Landhuis Daniel

Art Galleries - Take home some meaningful souvenirs; artwork by local talent: curacao-art.com
Gallery Alma Blou (Landhuis Habaai, Frater Radulphusweg 4, Otrobanda, Willemstad; www.galleryalmablou.com) - This gallery has a lovely collection of Curaçao paintings, photographs, pottery, sculpture and handmade jewelry.

  

Landhuis Bloemhof (Santa Rosaweg 6, Saliña, Willemstad; www.bloemhof.cw) - Built in 1735, this

 (artist: Herman van Bergen)

plantation (landhuis) has been a venue for art exhibits since the 1950s, showcasing local and international artists. The gift shop has unique, local, handmade crafts, paintings, and souvenirs. 

GET MARRIED
After exploring Curaçao, you might fall in love with the place and each other. No matter what your religion, you’ll find a wedding planner to help you organize the big day.
Mikvé Israel-Emmanuel (Hanchi di Snoa 29, Punda, Willemstad; www.snoa.com)
This is the oldest synagogue continuously used for religious services in the Western Hemisphere. It was built in 1732 by a Sephardic Jewish community that relocated from Amsterdam. With its sand floor, cobalt-blue windows, dark mahogany interior and candle-lit, brass chandeliers, it is just stunningly beautiful.
Fort Church (Fort Amsterdam, Punda, Willemstad; http://bit.ly/2I8cjWv) - Built in 1769, this is Curaçao's oldest Protestant church.

Carnival (Jan-Feb) is a great time to visit 
(photo: Curaçao Tourist Board)

Basilica Santa Ana (Breedestraat 31, Otrabanda, Willemstad; http://bit.ly/2D4qrfy) - Founded in 1752, Santa Ana was elevated to basilica and co-cathedral status by Pope Paul VI in 1975.

Where to Stay: There are all kinds of accommodations in Curaçao (www.curacao.com) from rental apartments to resort hotels. Here are two nice options:
Kurá Hulanda Village 

(Otrobanda, Willemstad; www.kurahulanda.com) - This is in Willemstad's Otrobanda neighborhood, a beautifully-restored section of town lined with little townhouses, that has the feel of a small European village. The Kurá Botanica Hotel is a stunning place for a unique, in-town experience.  (It's an adults-only property.)

Kura Hulanda

Sandals Royal Curaçao 

(Santa Barbara Plantation, Porta Blancu, Nieuwpoort; http://bit.ly/1k0fyvp)
This is the new Sandals resort, a great location on 44-secluded acres. The hotel looks out on Spanish Water Bay and the Caribbean Sea.  There’s great Scuba diving and water sports, pools, a private beach, tennis courts, and hiking & biking trails. Private bungalows and more. If you’re into golf, it's next door to The Old Quarry, an 18-hole championship golf course designed by Pete Dye.
Getting There: Flights on American and JetBlue from the USA; KLM from Europe.

Willemstad, Curaçao (photo: Rodry)

Editor's Note: 
a) Since 2010, the Netherlands Antilles no longer exists as such. Curaçao is now autonomous, but there's still Dutch influence. b) The currency is the Netherlands Antillean guilder (florin), but the dollar is widely accepted. c) The local languages are Dutch and Papiamentu (Curaçao creole), but almost everyone speaks English and Spanish.

Beyond the Beach: 15+ Artsy & Cool Things To Do in Cancun, Mexico

Cancun (photo: Enrique Brener)

By Jacquelin Carnegie - (Cancún, Mexico) Cancun is a great get-away destination; it's easy to get to from almost anywhere. You already know about the fantastic beaches and amazing water sports. Here's some suggestions to make your stay even more interesting:
EXPLORE MAYA CULTURE
Before Cancun became a world-class resort destination, the area was the center of Maya civilization for thousands of years. Maya culture is known for its sophisticated astronomy and mathematics, impressive architecture, and unique art. In addition to visiting archaeological sites from the past, experience Maya culture today:

Maya crafts

Visit a Maya Village
EcoColors Tours
Many descendants of the ancient Maya still live in the area. Visit an authentic Maya village and experience their traditional ways. Enjoy a meal of typical foods and swim in a cenote (the Maya believed they were entrances to the underworld). You can also do a visit to the Coba archaeological site and the Nohoch Muul pyramid, the tallest on the Yucatan Peninsula with great views of the jungle.
Sacred Maya Journey (May)
Xcaret Eco-Archaeological Park 

Sacred Maya Journey

Sacred Maya Journey, oarsmen

In ancient times, the Maya made a pilgrimage by sea in canoes from Cancun to Cozumel to worship at the shrine of Ixchel, the Mayan goddess of fertility, childbirth, and the moon, who controlled the tides; patroness of fishermen. Nowadays, this incredible voyage is recreated according to Maya tradition. You can observe the sacred ceremonies and watch the 30 canoes--paddled by Maya and international volunteers--be blessed and depart at dawn; an awe-inspiring experience!
Museo Maya de Cancun (Maya Museum)
Boulevard Kukulkan, Km 16.5, Hotel Zone, Cancun (Open: Tues-Sun, 9am-6pm; Fee: bring pesos) Designed by Mexican architect Alberto García Lascurain, this very modern building is a portal to the past--centuries of Maya culture on display: pottery, jewelry, tools. Three exhibit halls illuminate Maya history, art, and archaeology. There's also an impressive archaeological site, San Miguelito, on the museum grounds.

ART IS ALL AROUND

Taylor's Vein Man, MUSA

Museo Subacuático de Arte (MUSA, Underwater Museum) Cancun commissioned British sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor to create an underwater sculpture museum within the National Marine Park as a tourist attraction with an environmental objective. Taylor's stunningly-beautiful sculptures form artificial reefs, attracting marine life. Under the sea, the sculptures transform as they're covered in algae, barnacles, and coral growth. See for yourself on a snorkel &/or glass-bottom boat tour in the Punta Nizuc section. And, if you've ever dreamed of learning to scuba dive, now would be the ideal time!

NoseGo's mural

Colorful Wall Murals: By bringing Mexican and international artists together, two projects have resulted in interesting public art, brightening up walls and buildings, as well as raising awareness:
On Holbox - The IPAF Public Art Festival created murals promoting the art and cultural richness of the region. On Isla Mujeres - Sea Walls: Murals for Oceans Project, with help from PangeaSeed, international street artists created works to encourage environmental activism to protect oceans, sharks, and endangered marine life.

Museo Maya

HAVE FUN AT FESTIVALS
Wine & Food Festival (Nov): Top Mexican and international chefs come together with sommeliers from the best wineries of Europe, Mexico, and regions around the world to offer cooking demonstrations, tastings, and special dinners. Musical entertainment accompanies the events adding to the festivities.
Riviera Maya Jazz Festival (Nov): Enjoy some of the world's best jazz and R&B artists along with local musicians.

El Dia de Muertos

Festival of Life and Death Traditions - Xcaret (Oct/Nov): While we make merry on Halloween, the Mexicans and Maya celebrate El Dia de Muertos (the Day of the Dead) and Hanal Pixán (the Mayan Day of the Dead) usually on November 1st and 2nd. The celebrations honor ones dearly-departed relatives with special foods and lively rituals; truly fascinating--and fun--to experience. Be Entertained: Most of the hotels in Cancun have great entertainment and for classical music lovers, OperaMaya offers an International Music Festival in June.

COMMUNE WITH NATURE

Whale Shark

The Cancun area is teeming with wildlife and is on the migratory path of many species. When Whale Sharks congregate in the area (June-Sept), go on a Swim with Whale Sharks or participate in the Whale Shark Festival in Isla Mujeres (July). During the Sea Turtle nesting season in the Mexican Caribbean (May-Nov), most of Cancun's resorts participate in the Baby Turtle Release program (ask at your hotel); the big release is on Isla Mujeres. The Yucatán jungle is one of the few remaining natural habitats of the jaguar, but even with an experienced guide, there's no guarantee you'll see one. A better bet is a visit to Xcaret's jaguar island.

Public Art Fest, Holbox

Where To Stay: There is every type of accommodation imaginable in Cancun, for every budget from deluxe to backpacker. The Westin Resort & Spa is nice & affordable. For an all-inclusive, there's Club Med Cancun.
The Grand Fiesta Americana Coral Beach is in a great spot. Enjoy live jazz at the award-wining restaurant Le Basilic or partake in a fascinating Mexican history/culinary experience at La Joya's "The Table."

If you can afford it, the NIZUC Resort & Spa is knockout. (If not, at least have lunch at their La Punta Grill & Lounge).
When looking for art, activities, and hotels, keep in mind that the Cancun area, in the state of Quintana Roo on the Yucatan Peninsula, includes the islands of Isla Mujeres, Cozumel, and Holbox, along with the seaport town Puerto Morelos. Cancun is part of the Riviera Maya. Enjoy!

Discover France’s Magnificent Basque Region: 7 Great Ways To Explore La Côte Basque

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Vascos (Basques) by M. Flores Kaperotxipi

When one thinks of the “Basque Region,” Spain usually comes to mind. But, Basque Country (Pays Basque) has seven provinces: four in Spain and three in southwestern France.

French Basque provinces: Labourd, along the coast and vicinity; Basse-Navarre and Soule, in the Pyrénées mountains. A good starting point is to explore Labourd’s gorgeous coastal area, la Côte Basque, especially the towns of Biarritz, Bayonne, and Saint Jean de Luz. Each town has interesting cultural aspects and unique things to discover. The Basques are an ancient people who have inhabited this region for thousands of years. Pays Basque has a culture and traditions all its own that make the region a fascinating place to vacation.

LA CÔTE BASQUE
BIARRITZ - Glamor & Surfing

Biarritz (photo: Hôtel du Palais)

This chic, resort beach town developed in 1854 when Empress Eugénie persuaded her husband, Napoleon III, to build a palace by the Grande Plage beach. Today, it’s the majestic Hôtel du Palais. And, glamorous Biarritz is now a surfing capital. In fact, the French Federation of Surfing named it the “City of Surfing.” The Plage de la Côte des Basques beach is the most popular with surfers of all levels and there are several surf schools. Biarritz also hosts the surf competitions: Biarritz Maïder Arosteguy (April) & French Surf Championship (Oct).
In addition to the surf, admire: the many villas; the lighthouse; the 1933 deco Biarritz Aquarium; the Chapelle Impériale, Eugénie & Napoleon’s private chapel built in 1864 with Spanish-design influences & the French royal bee motif; the 1929 art deco Casino; and the neo-byzantine Église Russe de Biarritz built in 1892. Or just do some shopping and dining in all the fashionable spots. 

BAYONNE - Food & Festivals

Bayonne (photo: J. Carnegie)

Bayonne is such an enchanting spot; situated at the confluence of the Nive and Adour rivers, so….lots of bridges! It’s the capital of the French Basque Country and, over centuries, it’s been a strategic place in French history. It’s also known for its’ fabulous festivals, tasty ham, and legendary chocolate!
Bayonne has three, historic districts: Grand Bayonne and Petit Bayonne on the south bank of the Adour, divided by the Nive river. Saint-Ésprit, the original Jewish quarter, on the Adour’s north bank near the Citadel. Wander through the streets of these beautiful neighborhoods, explore all the local shops and restaurants. Along the way, admire the magnificent architecture and the remnants of Roman walls and Medieval fortifications. Highlights include:

Grand Bayonne: The ancient center, but also a very lively section of town. The Sainte-Marie Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the Camino de Santiago route; Château-Vieux (Old Castle), built in the 12th century, now part of the military; Jardin Botanique, a Japanese-style botanic garden; Les Halles, a popular, covered market by the Nive River.
Petit Bayonne: Marvel at the neighborhood architecture of typical Basque buildings. Musée Basque, a museum about the fascinating Basque culture and history, housed in a 16th-century palace; Château-Neuf (New Castle), built in the 15th century by Charles IV, now part of the university.

Nive river (photo: M. Prat/Visit Bayonne)

Saint-Ésprit: This area was primarily settled by Jews escaping the Inquisition and there’s still a Synagogue. Another contribution was their knowledge of chocolate-making. Visit L'Atelier du Chocolat (Chocolate Workshop) to learn all about it. La Citadelle, this citadel was designed by the famous Marquis de Vauban, French military engineer under Louis XIV.
Because Bayonne has such a long, diverse history—and was named “Ville d'Art & d'Histoire” (City of Art & History)--a great way to get the most out of your visit is on an informative, walking tour.

SAINT JEAN DE LUZ - Royal History & Seaside Charm
This is another lovely place with an important connection to French history.
Here, in 1660, King Louis XIV married Marie-Theresa, Infanta of Spain, sealing the peace between France and Spain. The wedding took place in the Saint Jean-Baptiste church. (Today, you can still visit, worship & attend concerts here.)
Place Louis XIV, the town’s central square, is the ideal place to relax over coffee, drinks, or a meal at one of the bar-restaurants’ terraces under the shade of Plane trees. The Maison Louis XIV (where the king stayed before the wedding) is here; a few rooms are open to the public.

Place Louis XIV (photo: Maison Louis XIV)

Then, wander down: Rue de la République, lined with seafood restaurants, that leads directly to the Grande Plage, a beautiful crescent-shaped beach, and the charming, seaside promenade. And, Rue Gambetta, a pedestrian shopping street for Basque linens & crafts, leather goods, and patisseries. It leads to the port with colorful, fishing boats, the famous lighthouse, and the stunning, Venetian-style Maison Joanoenia (House of the Infanta; where she stayed before the wedding to the king).

In the 17th century, St. Jean de Luz was one of the most important fishing ports in France. The stunning houses along the port, and in the historic, town center, were built by the wealthy, 17th century ship-owners whose fortunes came from cod fishing, whale hunting, and royal-sanctioned piracy. Today, tuna, sardine, anchovy, and hake are the preferred catch; available every morning at the marketplace fish stands. 

St. Jean de Luz

Les Halles is St Jean de Luz’s famous market; open daily, all year round, with stands selling fish, meat, vegetables & fruits, baked goods, etc. On Tuesday & Fridays, there’s a very-popular, outdoor market where local farmers sell their produce. To explore more, take a “Coeur de Ville" walking tour. Or, hop on the Little Train.

Basque Region in Nouvelle-Aquitaine: With the spectacular Pyrénées mountain range in the background, there are several other towns worth visiting along the coast of the Bay of Biscay from modest Ciboure to lovely Bidart and Hendaye, right on the border with Spain. 

Biarritz, Bay of Biscay (photo: J. Carnegie)

Getting There: Take a TGV fast train from Paris to Biarritz &/or St. Jean de Luz (about 4hrs) or fly into Biarritz Pays Basque Airport or San Sebastian Airport in Spain (about ½ hour away). 

BASQUE TRADITIONS - Pays Basque has a history that dates back to pre-Roman times, a distinct architectural style, unique fashions, foods, and sports, plus lots of folks in berets!
Basque Fashion: Béret Basque - It’s thought that the "Basque beret” originated with shepherds living on both sides of the Pyrénées mountains in southern France and northern Spain. This beret was also worn by local Basque fishermen, then by farmers and other laborers. It has since become an iconic French symbol. (Laulhère is the most prestigious beret maker in France.) 
Linge Basque (Basque Fabric) – The cloth always has seven stripes of various widths, one stripe for each of the seven Basque provinces, the four in Spain and the three in France. The fabric is used for everything from tablecloths to tea towels, throw-pillow covers, and espadrille shoes. (https://www.lartigue1910.com https://www.artiga.fr)

Basque fabric (photo: GoBasque)

Espadrilles (Mauleon)

Espadrilles – These traditional Basque shoes are made from canvas or cotton fabric with jute rope soles that are rubberized to last. One can buy hand-sewn or machine-finished shoes. (https://www.bayona.fr)
Basque Foods - Taste-test what makes the Basque gastronomy so famous:
Seafood Specialties: Ttoro (fish soup), tuna fish luzienne-style, koskera hake & grilled sardines. Jambon de Bayonne (Bayonne Ham): A specially-cured ham with an Indication Géographique Protégée, to prove what you’re eating is authentic. Sweets: Gâteau Basque (Basque Cake) & Macarons, originated here in 1160. Chocolate: First served in France at the 17th-century wedding of Louis XIII in Bayonne; introduced by Sephardic Jews fleeing Spain & Portugal.

Basque Sport - The Basque game of Pelote evolved from the jeu de paume (the ancestor of modern-day tennis); it’s like jai alai or squash. The Championnats du Monde de Pelote Basque (International Basque Pelota Championship) – Takes place every 4 years (next 2026). 

Fetes de Bayonne (photo: Visit Bayonne)

Basque Festival - Fêtes de Bayonne (July) - Parades, Basque sport competitions, traditional Basque dance & music, nightly concerts & fireworks! Garb to be worn by festival-goers: all white with a red scarf & a red belt. Start planning your trip to France's Pays Basque!