Day Trips: Visit 4 Knockout Homes by Famous Architects & Designers

By Jacquelin Carnegie 

The Glass House, Mies van der Rohe's Barcelona furnishings
(photo: Eirik Johnson)

When this talented group of architects and designers first presented their modernist ideas, they were considered outlandish and avant-garde. Over time, their designs became popular and then all-the-rage. Today, their iconic concepts are lauded and praised. It's wonderful to see their work in situ. These famous homes are now house-museums (and National Historic Landmarks), open to the public, and well worth a visit. Go for a day trip or weekend get-away.
DESIGNED BY ARCHITECTS
Massachusetts
GROPIUS HOUSE
68 Baker Bridge Rd; Lincoln, MA; Tel: 781/259-8098; www.historicnewengland.org (Open year-round; guided tour)

Almost everything we think of as modern—from architecture to furniture to painting—came out of the Bauhaus design movement, founded in Germany in 1919 by the architect Walter Gropius. When the Nazis closed the Bauhaus school in 1933, Gropius was invited to teach architecture at Harvard's Graduate School of Design (Philip Johnson and I. M. Pei were his students).

Gropius House (photo: Historic New England)

This modest house, built in 1938, combines Bauhaus concepts with traditional New England architectural elements. The Gropius family's possessions are still in place giving you a good idea of what daily life was like in this uniquely-designed house where such luminaries as Alexander Calder, Joan Miro, Igor Stravinsky, Henry Moore, and Frank Lloyd Wright were guests!

Dine: Twisted Tree Café (145 Lincoln Rd, Lincoln, MA) Stay: Lincoln is only about 30 mins from Boston. Charles Hotel (1 Bennett St, Cambridge, MA; Tel: 617/864-1200; www.charleshotel.com)
Getting there: Drive or train from Boston, take a MBTA Commuter Rail (Fitchburg Line) to Lincoln; then a taxi. (The Twisted Tree Café is across the street from the station.)
Connecticut
THE GLASS HOUSE - Philip Johnson The Glass House Visitors Center, 199 Elm St., New Canaan, CT; Tel: 203/594-9884; www.theglasshouse.org (Open April to December; guided tour) 

Renowned architect Philip Johnson took Bauhaus concepts to heart and added his own spin to create one of the most iconic houses in the world. Built in 1949, the Glass House still takes your breath away. For furnishings, Johnson chose a few minimalist Barcelona pieces designed by architect Mies van der Rohe, a former head of the Bauhaus school.

The Glass House, Veil (photo: JCarnegie)

The Glass House ushered the International Style into residential American architecture and into the neighborhood--New Canaan, CT has a plethora of modernist homes. Every two years, the New Canaan Historical Society gives a Modern House Tour. (Veil, a fog sculpture by Japanese artist Fujiko Nakaya, was on view at the Glass House in 2014.) 

Dine: New Canaan's Main Street has a wide range of restaurants and cafés. Stay: Roger Sherman Inn (195 Oenoke Ridge, New Canaan, CT; Tel: 203/966-4541; www.rogershermaninn.com)
Getting there: Drive or train from New York (Grand Central Station), take a Metro-North train (New Haven Line) to New Canaan; walk across the street to the Visitors Center.

BUILT BY DESIGNERS
New York

American Modern

MANITOGA: The Russel Wright Design Center
584 Route 9D, Garrison, New York; Tel: 845/424-3812; www.visitmanitoga.org (Open May to November; guided tour) 

Manitoga (photo: G Horton)

Russel Wright, along with his wife Mary, was an acclaimed American designer best known for his ingenious home furnishings line and innovative tableware. (The Iroquois Casual and American Modern china, made from the 1930s to the 50s, is still highly collectible.) Less known is the fact that Wright built a stunning glass house and "designed" the surrounding 75-acre landscape, transforming a once-abandoned quarry site. It's a treat to visit his magnificent home and hike the Wright-designed trails; wear study shoes. (If you fancy Wright's dinnerware, reproduction American Modern is available from Bauer Pottery.) 

Dine: Dolly's Stay: The Garrison Inn (only 4 rooms, so book early)
Getting there: Drive or train from New York (Grand Central Station), take a Metro-North train (Hudson Line) to Garrison Station, then a taxi.(Alley's Way Taxi, reserve in advance, Tel: 845/265-7655) or one of these other options.

New Jersey

THE STICKLEY MUSEUM at Craftsman Farms
2352 Rt. 10-West, # 5, Morris Plains, New Jersey; Tel: 973/540-0311; www.stickleymuseum.org (Open year-round; guided tours)

(photo: Ray Stubblebine,
 The Craftsman Farms Foundation) 

Visionary furniture designer Gustav Stickley was a major proponent of the American Arts and Crafts Movement. Built in 1911, his New Jersey home, showcasing his innovative designs, gives you a wonderful idea of how his various furniture and design pieces work together to create a harmonious ambience. (If you love Stickley's designs but can’t afford originals, buy “re-issues,” not reproductions, of classic Craftsman furniture from Stickley, Audi & Co.)  

Dine: Pack a picnic and enjoy dining al fresco on these beautiful, 30-area park grounds. Stay: Here's a list of hotels, B&Bs, and restaurants in the area. Getting there: Drive or train from New York (Penn Station), take a NJ Transit train (Morristown Line) to Morris Plains, then a taxi.

Editor's Note: Here's a list of stunning Iconic Houses all over the world that are open to the public.

5 Great Day Trips from Brussels, Belgium

By Jacquelin Carnegie 

(photo: VisitBrussels)

Brussels is a lovely little city to explore with over 100 museums, plenty of wonderful restaurants, and the delightful Dansaert shopping district. Famous for its food and beer, comics and artists, you'll have a great time. But, Belgium is a small country—it doesn’t take more than an hour by train to visit most of the major highlights—so plan your trip to take advantage of all the country has to offer. It's easy to get around by train, bus or rental car.
Belgium has two regions: Wallonia, which is French-speaking, and Flanders where Flemish (like Dutch) is spoken. Don’t fret; many people also speak English.
DISCOVER WALLONIA: DAY TRIPS FROM BRUSSELS
Art in the Park

(photo: Folon Foundation)

Fondation Folon
Ferme du Château de La Hulpe, Drève de la Ramée 6 A, La Hulpe; www.fondationfolon.be
Jean-Michel Folon was a fabulous, 20th-century, Belgian painter, illustrator and sculptor. While not as well known as his compatriot, the surrealist painter René Magritte, both liked to paint men in hats. Folon's celebrated work--beautiful watercolors, posters on behalf of important causes, and whimsical sculptures--is displayed in Château de La Hulpe’s ancient farmhouse in Solvay Park, about a half-hour from Brussels. After you’ve viewed the collection, enjoy lunch at the adjacent café, Taverne de L’Homme Bleu, and take a stroll through the magnificent park.
Getting There: TEC Bus: #366 from Ixelles: Etangs d'Ixelles on Ave. du General de Gaulle in Brussels to La Hulpe Etang Solvay, about an hour. In the park, follow the path that leads to your left, signage to the Fondation is limited. I’m a firm believer in public transportation, but this trip is easier by car (about 30 minutes) and you could combine it with a visit to Waterloo, ten minutes away.

Living History: A Bad Day for Napoleon
Waterloo Battlefield
Route du Lion 315, Waterloo; www.waterloo1815.be

(photo: Waterloo Battlefield)

It’s always thrilling to be in a spot where world history was made. The Battle of Waterloo was one of the most important in European history. It marked the fall of Napoleon and paved the way for a new era of peace in Europe. On June 18, 1815, Napoleon, the Duke of Wellington, Field-Marshal Blücher and 350,000 soldiers met on this battlefield, which has been preserved in its original state. You can take a tour, see reenactments, and learn more about the events leading up to the battle. But, you don’t have to be a military history buff to enjoy a visit to this beautiful and fascinating sight.
Getting There: Train: From Brussels Midi train station to Braine L’Alleud about 20 minutes. Then, walk or taxi to the Waterloo Battlefield Visitors’ Center. TEC Bus: #365a or W outside Brussels Midi station to Route de Nivelles, not Waterloo stop, about 45 minutes. (This trip by car is about 30 minutes from Brussels.)

DISCOVER FLANDERS
ANTWERP: A Passion for Fashion
Antwerp

(photo: Dries van Norten)

is a hidden gem. Known for diamonds, which are just dull stones until cut and polished, this city became famous for the "Antwerp cut," said to give diamonds more sparkle. Browse the diamond district near the beautifully-restored Central Station, but purchase only from a reputable shop with the "Antwerp's Most Brilliant" label (www.awdc.be). Antwerp is also a fashion center thanks to the now-famous “Antwerp Six,” a group of avant-garde fashion designers (Walter van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten, Dirk van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs, Marina Yee) who burst onto the scene about 30 years ago and put Antwerp on the fashion map. Shop-till-you-drop in the lovely Sint-Andries neighborhood. Even better, go with a personal shopper. You'll want to stay longer than a day.
Shops: Louis (Lombardenstraat 2) - The store that launched the Sixers’ careers; Modepaleis (Nationalestraat 16) - Dries van Noten’s flagship store. 
Personal Shopper: Go with style consultant Tanguy Ottomer (Beroepsbelg; Tel: +32(0)3 430 23 30; http://beroepsbelg.be; half & full day rates)
Dine: Het Pomphuis (Siberiastraat z/n) - Delicious meals in a spectacular setting. De Lokeend (General Belliardstraat 11) - A unique dining experience for groups of 12+; diners in a fabulous, private home.
Stay: Lots of options from nice hotels to campsites. Park Inn (Koningin Astridplein 14) - Hip & conveniently-located.
Getting There: Train from Brussels Centrale station to Antwerp, about 30 minutes.

BRUGES: Chocolates & Canals 

Bruges

(photo: @mgdlnvlgr)

Famed for its medieval city center and canals, Bruges is now more popular than ever. The downside is hoards of tourists and local shops turned into tourist traps. To experience Bruges’ true beauty, rise early and/or stay up late to stroll the cobblestone streets free of the maddening crowds. But, nothing can spoil chocolate—there are some 40 shops to choose from. Start at the Chocolatier Van Oost (Wollestraat 11).
Dine: Cafedraal (Zilverstraat 38) - Delicious regional and seasonal dishes.
Stay: Plenty of lovely hotels and B&Bs to choose from. Pand Hotel (Pandreitje 16) - For a splurge, try this fashionably-decorated spot.
Getting There: Train from Brussels Centrale station to Bruges, about an hour.

GHENT: Beauty Beyond Measure
Ghent

(photo: Nataša Pavlović)

If you have time for only one day trip from Brussels, let it be this one. Ghent is the real deal. It has everything Bruges has--canals, unbelievable architecture--just on a slightly larger scale with fewer tourists. Take a boat ride on the canals. Admire the cityscape of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Neo-Classical architecture. Marvel at the magnificent, 13th- to 17th-century guildhalls along the banks of the canals. Wander around, then relax at any number of lovely, sidewalk cafés, taverns or brasseries. But, be sure to stay for nightfall when all the buildings and monuments are illuminated.
Dine: Mosquito Coast (Hoogpoort 28) - Inexpensive & in a great location overlooking the canal; Korenlei Twee (Korenlei 2 ) - A bit more stylish; Café Theatre (Schouwburgstraat 7) - Elegant, right next to the opera house; known for its Moëlleux, a cake with melted chocolate inside.
Stay: Several splendid places to choose from. Ghent Marriott (Korenlei 10) - An historic building with a hi-tech interior, right in the heart of it all.
Getting There: Train from Brussels Centrale station to Ghent (Sint-Pieters station), about 35 minutes. Then, Tram #1 into the center city, 7 mins.

Transportation Options in Belgium: 

Train/Bus: Brussels has three train stations (Brussels Centrale, Brussels Midi, Brussels Nord). The trains you’ll need for most of these trips leave from Brussels Centrale; the trains are frequent and inexpensive. Schedules & fares: SNCB or Rail Europe. The TEC Bus is also very convenient. Car Rental: All the major rental car companies are in the Arrivals Hall at Brussels Airport and, in the city center, at the Brussels Midi train station: Avis, Hertz, Europcar, etc. Travel in Style: Hire a car and driver from Modern Car. 

Magritte, La Décalcomanie

Making Your Trip Easier: City Cards give access to museums, public transport, special discounts, etc. They are useful if you plan to cram in a lot of sightseeing, but are less beneficial if you intend a more leisurely trip: BrusselsCard, Antwerp CityPass, CityCard Ghent. 

BeroepsBelg - Offers all kinds of interesting tours in several Belgian cities.
Getting to Belgium: Brussels Airlines has just upgraded its fleet to offer more transatlantic comfort. Bon Voyage! 

Discover France’s Magnificent Basque Region: 7 Great Ways To Explore La Côte Basque

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Vascos (Basques) by M. Flores Kaperotxipi

When one thinks of the “Basque Region,” Spain usually comes to mind. But, Basque Country (Pays Basque) has seven provinces: four in Spain and three in southwestern France.

French Basque provinces: Labourd, along the coast and vicinity; Basse-Navarre and Soule, in the Pyrénées mountains. A good starting point is to explore Labourd’s gorgeous coastal area, la Côte Basque, especially the towns of Biarritz, Bayonne, and Saint Jean de Luz. Each town has interesting cultural aspects and unique things to discover. The Basques are an ancient people who have inhabited this region for thousands of years. Pays Basque has a culture and traditions all its own that make the region a fascinating place to vacation.

LA CÔTE BASQUE
BIARRITZ - Glamor & Surfing

Biarritz (photo: Hôtel du Palais)

This chic, resort beach town developed in 1854 when Empress Eugénie persuaded her husband, Napoleon III, to build a palace by the Grande Plage beach. Today, it’s the majestic Hôtel du Palais. And, glamorous Biarritz is now a surfing capital. In fact, the French Federation of Surfing named it the “City of Surfing.” The Plage de la Côte des Basques beach is the most popular with surfers of all levels and there are several surf schools. Biarritz also hosts the surf competitions: Biarritz Maïder Arosteguy (April) & French Surf Championship (Oct).
In addition to the surf, admire: the many villas; the lighthouse; the 1933 deco Biarritz Aquarium; the Chapelle Impériale, Eugénie & Napoleon’s private chapel built in 1864 with Spanish-design influences & the French royal bee motif; the 1929 art deco Casino; and the neo-byzantine Église Russe de Biarritz built in 1892. Or just do some shopping and dining in all the fashionable spots. 

BAYONNE - Food & Festivals

Bayonne (photo: J. Carnegie)

Bayonne is such an enchanting spot; situated at the confluence of the Nive and Adour rivers, so….lots of bridges! It’s the capital of the French Basque Country and, over centuries, it’s been a strategic place in French history. It’s also known for its’ fabulous festivals, tasty ham, and legendary chocolate!
Bayonne has three, historic districts: Grand Bayonne and Petit Bayonne on the south bank of the Adour, divided by the Nive river. Saint-Ésprit, the original Jewish quarter, on the Adour’s north bank near the Citadel. Wander through the streets of these beautiful neighborhoods, explore all the local shops and restaurants. Along the way, admire the magnificent architecture and the remnants of Roman walls and Medieval fortifications. Highlights include:

Grand Bayonne: The ancient center, but also a very lively section of town. The Sainte-Marie Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the Camino de Santiago route; Château-Vieux (Old Castle), built in the 12th century, now part of the military; Jardin Botanique, a Japanese-style botanic garden; Les Halles, a popular, covered market by the Nive River.
Petit Bayonne: Marvel at the neighborhood architecture of typical Basque buildings. Musée Basque, a museum about the fascinating Basque culture and history, housed in a 16th-century palace; Château-Neuf (New Castle), built in the 15th century by Charles IV, now part of the university.

Nive river (photo: M. Prat/Visit Bayonne)

Saint-Ésprit: This area was primarily settled by Jews escaping the Inquisition and there’s still a Synagogue. Another contribution was their knowledge of chocolate-making. Visit L'Atelier du Chocolat (Chocolate Workshop) to learn all about it. La Citadelle, this citadel was designed by the famous Marquis de Vauban, French military engineer under Louis XIV.
Because Bayonne has such a long, diverse history—and was named “Ville d'Art & d'Histoire” (City of Art & History)--a great way to get the most out of your visit is on an informative, walking tour.

SAINT JEAN DE LUZ - Royal History & Seaside Charm
This is another lovely place with an important connection to French history.
Here, in 1660, King Louis XIV married Marie-Theresa, Infanta of Spain, sealing the peace between France and Spain. The wedding took place in the Saint Jean-Baptiste church. (Today, you can still visit, worship & attend concerts here.)
Place Louis XIV, the town’s central square, is the ideal place to relax over coffee, drinks, or a meal at one of the bar-restaurants’ terraces under the shade of Plane trees. The Maison Louis XIV (where the king stayed before the wedding) is here; a few rooms are open to the public.

Place Louis XIV (photo: Maison Louis XIV)

Then, wander down: Rue de la République, lined with seafood restaurants, that leads directly to the Grande Plage, a beautiful crescent-shaped beach, and the charming, seaside promenade. And, Rue Gambetta, a pedestrian shopping street for Basque linens & crafts, leather goods, and patisseries. It leads to the port with colorful, fishing boats, the famous lighthouse, and the stunning, Venetian-style Maison Joanoenia (House of the Infanta; where she stayed before the wedding to the king).

In the 17th century, St. Jean de Luz was one of the most important fishing ports in France. The stunning houses along the port, and in the historic, town center, were built by the wealthy, 17th century ship-owners whose fortunes came from cod fishing, whale hunting, and royal-sanctioned piracy. Today, tuna, sardine, anchovy, and hake are the preferred catch; available every morning at the marketplace fish stands. 

St. Jean de Luz

Les Halles is St Jean de Luz’s famous market; open daily, all year round, with stands selling fish, meat, vegetables & fruits, baked goods, etc. On Tuesday & Fridays, there’s a very-popular, outdoor market where local farmers sell their produce. To explore more, take a “Coeur de Ville" walking tour. Or, hop on the Little Train.

Basque Region in Nouvelle-Aquitaine: With the spectacular Pyrénées mountain range in the background, there are several other towns worth visiting along the coast of the Bay of Biscay from modest Ciboure to lovely Bidart and Hendaye, right on the border with Spain. 

Biarritz, Bay of Biscay (photo: J. Carnegie)

Getting There: Take a TGV fast train from Paris to Biarritz &/or St. Jean de Luz (about 4hrs) or fly into Biarritz Pays Basque Airport or San Sebastian Airport in Spain (about ½ hour away). 

BASQUE TRADITIONS - Pays Basque has a history that dates back to pre-Roman times, a distinct architectural style, unique fashions, foods, and sports, plus lots of folks in berets!
Basque Fashion: Béret Basque - It’s thought that the "Basque beret” originated with shepherds living on both sides of the Pyrénées mountains in southern France and northern Spain. This beret was also worn by local Basque fishermen, then by farmers and other laborers. It has since become an iconic French symbol. (Laulhère is the most prestigious beret maker in France.) 
Linge Basque (Basque Fabric) – The cloth always has seven stripes of various widths, one stripe for each of the seven Basque provinces, the four in Spain and the three in France. The fabric is used for everything from tablecloths to tea towels, throw-pillow covers, and espadrille shoes. (https://www.lartigue1910.com https://www.artiga.fr)

Basque fabric (photo: GoBasque)

Espadrilles (Mauleon)

Espadrilles – These traditional Basque shoes are made from canvas or cotton fabric with jute rope soles that are rubberized to last. One can buy hand-sewn or machine-finished shoes. (https://www.bayona.fr)
Basque Foods - Taste-test what makes the Basque gastronomy so famous:
Seafood Specialties: Ttoro (fish soup), tuna fish luzienne-style, koskera hake & grilled sardines. Jambon de Bayonne (Bayonne Ham): A specially-cured ham with an Indication Géographique Protégée, to prove what you’re eating is authentic. Sweets: Gâteau Basque (Basque Cake) & Macarons, originated here in 1160. Chocolate: First served in France at the 17th-century wedding of Louis XIII in Bayonne; introduced by Sephardic Jews fleeing Spain & Portugal.

Basque Sport - The Basque game of Pelote evolved from the jeu de paume (the ancestor of modern-day tennis); it’s like jai alai or squash. The Championnats du Monde de Pelote Basque (International Basque Pelota Championship) – Takes place every 4 years (next 2026). 

Fetes de Bayonne (photo: Visit Bayonne)

Basque Festival - Fêtes de Bayonne (July) - Parades, Basque sport competitions, traditional Basque dance & music, nightly concerts & fireworks! Garb to be worn by festival-goers: all white with a red scarf & a red belt. Start planning your trip to France's Pays Basque!

What’s New in Paris, France: 4 Fabulous Renovations & Cool Discoveries

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Richelieu BnF, Salle Ovale (photo: J.Carnegie)

Something old, something new, something renovated & something blue…No matter how often you've been to Paris, there are always hidden gems to discover:
ROYAL TREASURES: ENRICHING THE PRESENT
The Richelieu – Bibliothèque Nationale de France 

58 Rue de Richelieu, (Entrance Rue Vivienne; Entry fee) 2nd arrondissement;

https://www.bnf.fr/en/richelieu

Usually, all one sees is the façade of all the stunning buildings in Paris, so it’s always a treat to be able to go inside. After more than 10 years of restoration and renovations, this glorious, historic site--The Richelieu branch of the Bibliothèque Nationale de France (French National Library)—is now open to the public; previously, only students and researchers were allowed in. Plus, the transformation includes a renovated, richly-decorated museum wing housing some of France’s greatest treasures.
The building itself is a magnificent treasure--a palace originally built in the 17th century to house the art collections of Cardinal Mazarin (Chief Minister to King Louis XIII & the Sun King Louis XIV). In 1721, the Bibliothèque du Roi (the King’s Library) was moved here, incorporating the royal collection of books and treasures from French kings dating back to Charles V in 1380. 

Richelieu BnF, Galerie Mazarin (photo: BnF)

The Richelieu’s spectacular museum wing displays the royal treasures from the Cabinet du Roi (King’s Cabinet), which includes ancient coins and medals, royal jewels, statues and precious antiquities from ancient Greece and Rome. In addition to newer, important items of interest. Before leaving, be sure to marvel at the library’s Salle Ovale glass-domed ceiling; admire the Vivienne garden, have a snack at the Rose Bakery café, and maybe even stop into the bookstore.

DELIVER THE LETTER, THE SOONER THE BETTER
La Poste du Louvre – Louvre Post Office
50 Rue du Louvre, 1st arrondissement; https://lapostedulouvre.fr
Built in 1886 by architect Julien Guadet, this magnificent building once only served postal needs. Now, after years of renovation by the architect Dominique Perrault, it also serves the community by preserving yet updating the original.

La Poste du Louvre (photo: La Poste Immobilier)

 The famous post office is back in service, but this huge, 5-story building now also has stores, restaurants, and a 5-star hotel, Madame Rêve. (In addition to low-cost community housing, a daycare center, etc.) The building takes up an entire block, but previously could only be entered through the post office. Now, five entryways give access to an open-air, inner courtyard surrounded by cafés and shops.
Madame Rêve Hotel: (48 rue du Louvre) - If you can’t afford to stay at this 82-room, 5-star boutique hotel, you can still enjoy a coffee in the lovely Madame Rêve Café, or a meal in La Plume restaurant, and a drink at the rooftop bar, Roof. Then, check out other interesting renovations in the neighborhood. 
Extra Credit: Musée de La Poste (34 Blvd de Vaugirard, 15th arrondissement; https://www.museedelaposte.fr) – Recently-renovated; the perfect museum for Philatelists (stamp collectors) and anyone interested in all things postal.

GARDENS & PHOTOS: FASCINATING WORLDWIDE VIEWS
The Albert Kahn Gardens & Museum
2 Rue du Port, Boulogne-Billancourt; https://albert-kahn.hauts-de-seine.fr; Metro: #10 - Boulogne-Pont de Saint Cloud (Open: 11am–7pm, closed Mondays; Entry fee)

Japanese garden (photo: JasonW/HPRG)

This lovely spot is the perfect place to relax and unwind while soaking up some culture at the same time. Meander through the 10 acres of gardens, then spend time in the new, beautifully-designed photography museum that looks like a mix of Japanese and Scandinavian esthetic.
Albert Kahn, a banker by trade who’d traveled extensively, bought this property in 1893 and recreated garden styles from around the world. After 5 years of renovations, his “World in a Garden” has reopened to the public. By simply walking down the garden paths, be transported to: a Contemporary Japanese Garden (Le jardin japonais contemporain); a Japanese Village (Le village japonais); an English Garden (Le jardin anglais); a French Garden (Le jardin français) with an Orchard & Rose Garden (Le verger-roseraie); the Vosges Forest (La forêt vosgienne); a Golden Forest & Meadow (La forêt dorée et la prairie); and a Blue Forest & Marsh (La forêt bleue et le marais)—“blue” from the Atlas cedars and Colorado spruces.
In addition to gardens, Albert Kahn was interested in the new art & science of photography. As he traveled around the world on business trips from 1909 to 1931, he financed a project to photograph and film daily life, religious and cultural practices, and political events in some 50 countries. The extraordinary result, Archives of the Planet, is on display in the splendid museum designed by architect Kengo Kuma.

(photo: Albert Kahn Museum)

Albert Kahn was a visionary, a philanthropist, and a patron of the arts who believed that “knowledge of others” contributes to world peace. Certainly, wandering around his magnificent, international gardens will bring you peace, at least for an afternoon.

Paris: Discover 20 Secret Passages

Passage du Grand-Cerf

 Photo: MOSSOT/Wikimedia Commons

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (Paris, France)

During the 1800s in Paris, around 100 Passages Couverts--stunning, glass-covered passageways--were constructed to shield well-healed shoppers from the elements. Now, only about 20 remain. Some still house high-end stores, others are more lowbrow, shopping arcades.

Referred to as Passages or Galeries, many have been restored to their former glory with dazzling skylights and mosaic-tiled floors while others are a bit on the shabby side. Regardless, as you wander through, browsing the shops or having a coffee in one of the many bistros, remember you’re following in the footsteps of Balzac and Zola--shopping the way Parisians have done for centuries.

  

Explore the Passages Couverts

Here’s a selection worth exploring. Just keep your eyes peeled, some Passage entryways are so inconspicuous you’ll walk right by them.

Galerie Véro-Dodat Photo: Gabrielle Robillard/Wikimedia Commons

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Enter: 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, or 2 rue du Bouloi; 1^st arrondissement; Metro: Louvre Rivoli

In 1826, two butchers with excellent taste, Véro and Dodat, built this elegant passageway. It’s neo-classical style with black-and-white, checkered marble flooring, stylish white-globe lamps, painted ceilings, and the original wooden shop fronts is a classy setting for art galleries and antique shops selling everything from vintage musical instruments to collectible toys and dolls.

Galerie Vivienne, Photo: Mbzt/Wikimedia Commons

Galerie Vivienne

www.galerie-vivienne.com

Enter: 4 rue des Petits Champs, or 6 rue Vivienne, or 5 rue de la Banque; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Bourse or Pyramides

Lined with high-fashion boutiques, antiques shops and old bookstores, this passageway is thought to be the most beautiful with a stunning mosaic floor, tall-glass arched store fronts, and potted trees. Built in 1823, it converges with the Galerie Colbert.

Galerie Colbert, Photo: Tangopaso/Wikimedia Commons

Galerie Colbert

Enter at: 6 rue des Petits-Champs, or 6 rue Vivienne; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Bourse or Pyramides

Restored by the Bibliothèque Nationale (National Library), this stately passage, built in 1826, leads to a magnificent, glass-covered rotunda. Stand and ponder the bronze statue at its center by Charles-François Leboeuf—Eurydice, Orpheus’ beloved and doomed wife.

Passage du Grand-Cerf

https://bit.ly/2JIrkkA

Enter: 145 rue Saint-Denis, or 10 rue Dussoubs; 2^nd arrondissement; 

Metro: Etienne Marcel
Built in 1835, this impressive interior is three-stories high. The skylights are framed by wrought-iron work and the wood-paneled shop fronts house boutiques for fashion designers, artisans and decorators.

Passage du Grand-Cerf, Photo: Ralf.treinen/Wikimedia Commons

Passage des Panoramas

Enter: 11 Boulevard Montmartre, or 10 rue Saint-Marc; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Grands Boulevards

  Passage des Panoramas, Photo: MarkusMark/Wikimedia Commons

Built in 1799 and still bustling with activity, this is the oldest covered passage in Paris and the first public place lit by gaslight in 1817. Amid the stamp collectors, antique postcard boutiques, and restaurants, there are new trendy shops and establishments that have stood the test of time such as the Théâtre des Variétés opened in 1807. This passage links to several others: Galerie des Variétés, Galerie Feydeau, Galerie Montmartre & Galerie Saint Marc.

Passage Jouffroy

Passage Jouffroy, Photo: MarkusMark/Wikimedia Commons

Enter: 10-12 Boulevard Montmartre, or 9 rue de la Grange-Batelière; 2^nd/9^th arrondissement; Metro: Grands Boulevards

Directly across from the Passage des Panoramas, Passage Jouffroy, built in 1847, has lots of shops selling collectible movie posters, vintage postcards, antique toys, old books, and interesting curios. There’s even a quirky wax museum opened since 1882, Musée Grévin, and a hotel with budget rooms, Hôtel Chopin.

Passage Verdeau, Photo: Davitof/Wikimedia Commons

Passage Verdeau

Enter: 31bis rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, or 6 rue de la Grange-Batelière; 9^th arrondissement; Metro: Le Peletier

The Passage Jouffroy leads to the Passage Verdeau, built in 1847. This passage is only a block long and has a mix of old-fashioned shops selling vintage photographs and prints, stamps, old books and postcards.

Tour the Passages Couverts

To learn more about the history, here are some touring options:

Association Passages et Galeries

Tel: 01/44-71-02-48; www.passagesetgaleries.org

Maps for 3 self-guided walks are on the Association's website. Under “Découverte Des Passages,” click “Les itinéraires.” For exact addresses and opening hours (some are closed “fermé” at night and on Sundays), click on “Informations pratiques.” The Association offers a guided tour of the passageways for groups on request (in several languages).

Try these tours, if you speak French or want some practice (private tours in English but at a much higher price):

Cultival

Tel: 01/ 73-03-60-03; www.cultival.fr

“The Covered Passages of Paris”: An hour and a half tour of several passages: Galerie Véro-Dodat, Galerie Vivienne, Galerie Colbert, Passage des Panoramas (in French).

Visites Spectacles

Tel: 01/48-58-37-12; www.visites-spectacles.com

“L’Intrigue des Passages Couverts”: A fun option is to experience a “murder mystery” from the 1870s acted out in the passages: Passage des Panoramas, Passage Jouffroy, Passage Verdeau (in French).