Explore France’s Normandy Coastline, Côte d'Albâtre: Part I: LE HAVRE: 5 Great Reasons To Visit

By Jacquelin Carnegie
ART, ARCHITECTURE, HISTORY & THE BEACH

Le Havre, Centre-Ville (photo: Valentin Pacaut)

There are so many reasons to explore France’s Normandy coastline: The Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster coast) is a stretch of chalk cliffs, like England’s white cliffs of Dover across The Channel, with several worthwhile stops along the way. 

Le Havre, located on the Seine River estuary where it meets the English Channel, is the busiest port on the northern French coast. Many people come to Normandy to see the D-Day Landing beaches; well, Le Havre is another part of that World War II history--bombed by the Allies in 1944 to liberate the port from the occupying Germans.

Maybe you haven’t thought about planning a trip to Le Havre because all you’ve heard is it’s a huge port city with ugly, modern architecture--that doesn’t even come close to properly depicting this outstanding place. Yes, it’s a major port which happens to be amazing. Yes, a section of town was rebuilt after being bombed during World War ll, but the re-build is a must-see, architectural marvel. Plus, the city is just luminous from the quality of light that once even impressed a young painter--Claude Monet.

ARCHITECTURE THAT WILL KNOCK YOUR SOCKS OFF
In 1944, the Allies bombed Le Havre as they moved across Normandy following the D-Day landings. The massive aerial bombardment was part of a plan to break the German defenses and force them to surrender. While Operation Astonia succeeded in its mission, the port and the downtown area of Le Havre was completely destroyed.

Centre-Ville (photo: Phillippe Breard) 

 In the aftermath, it was decided not to just rebuild Le Havre, but to redesign it. The architect chosen for this task was an École des Beaux Arts-trained architect, Auguste Perret, whose innovative concepts turned the destroyed area into a showcase of modernist design. The Centre-Ville Reconstruit du Havre (Reconstructed City Centre) is an outstanding example of post-war, urban planning with an emphasis on light and space: plazas, courtyards, arcades, parks & gardens, and pedestrian streets between the major, triangular axis: Boulevard François I, Avenue Foch, and Rue de Paris. The buildings were constructed from specially-treated concrete, tinted with various stains, that give them a range of hues, from pinkish-beige to golden-brown, preventing a monotonous, gray appearance. The apartments are warm & welcoming with lovely, open-plan layouts that are flooded with light from floor-to-ceiling windows and balconies. Built between 1945 and 1954, Centre-Ville is now a designated UNESCO World Heritage site.

Visit a Furnished Perret Apartment: Appartement Témoin Perret
Maison du Patrimoine, 181 Rue de Paris; Tel: +33 2 35 22 31 22; https://tinyurl.com/3mjf6rxb

Appartement Perret (photo: Phillippe Breard)

(Tour in French; request English, German, Spanish) - Take a guided tour of a period-furnished, Perret apartment; you’ll want to move right in!

Tour the Town: In addition to this Centre-Ville area, there’s many other interesting architectural and unique-to-Le Havre sites worth seeing. You can do:
a) Bus Tour: Bee Le Havre (Audio-guide in French, English, German, Dutch, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian & Russian) - 1-hour tour of the city highlights in a bright, yellow bus. Once you get the lay-of-the-land, go back for a more-extended visit of the sites.
b) Self-Guided Tour - Be sure to check out: Église Saint-Joseph (Blvd François 1er; Open: daily, 10am-6pm; Free) - From the outside, the church looks like Brutalist architecture which belies the magnificent, stained-glass interior. The “Volcano”, a cultural complex & library designed by the architect Oscar Niemeyer. And, while many original buildings were destroyed, there are still some lovely ones from the 16th- & 17th-century as well as examples of Art Nouveau & Art Deco.

BEHOLD THE MAGNIFICENT PORT
Le Havre was founded in 1517 by King François l who wanted a deep-water, fortified port to defend France's coastline and facilitate trade to enhance the nation's strength and influence. During World War II, the Port of Le Havre was occupied and used by the Germans as a strategic naval base. The Allies needed the port to bring supplies to their armies fighting in Europe. Their 1944 bombing liberated yet mostly-destroyed the port. After World War II, the port was rebuilt and, since the early 1970s, the port has undergone significant expansions and modernizations to accommodate larger vessels and increased traffic. 

Port de Plaisance (photo: Sabina Lorkin/Anibas Photography)

Grand Port Maritime du Havre - The Port of Le Havre consists of a series of canal-like docks and multiple terminals for different types of cargo such as container ships and cruise liners. Cruise Terminal (Pointe de Floride) - In addition to being an important, cargo port, several major cruise lines stop in Le Havre, including: MSC Cruises, Norwegian, Royal Caribbean, Cunard, Oceania Cruises, etc. Port de Plaisance - There is also a marina.

Tour the Port of Le Havre:
Vedettes Baie de Seine (Tour in French) – This boat tour of the port is fascinating, even if you don’t speak French. Port Center (Tours in French; in English, request in advance + additional fee) – Offers various tours of the port by bus (autocar).

Tour Le Havre in Other Languages:
There are so many interesting sights. If you don’t speak French, there are great
Guides (guide conférencier) who speak English & other languages (i.e., German, Spanish, Italian, etc.) such as the terrific Anne-Charlotte Perré.
Inquire at: the Patrimoine office: Tel: +33 2 35 22 31 22;
maison-patrimoine-info@lehavre-etretat-tourisme.com
Or the Tourism office: Le Havre Etretat Normandie Tourisme
186 Blvd Clemenceau; Tel: +33 2 32 74 04 04

ART IS EVERYWHERE: FROM IMPRESSIONIST TO CONTEMPORARY
Many art historians believe that Impressionism originated in Le Havre as it was here in 1872 that Claude Monet painted his famous Impression, Sunrise which gave its name to the whole art movement. Monet’s mentor, the artist Eugène Boudin, introducing him to en plein air (in the open air) painting--working outdoors rather than in a studio. In 1858, when Monet was just 18 years old, Boudin coaxed him to paint the nature around them--clouds, sun, the seashore--and the way objects changed according to the fluctuating daylight. This plein-air style was also an inspiration to many future generations of artists.

Claude Monet, Impression, Sunrise (1872) 

Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux (MuMa) – Art Museum
2 Blvd Clemenceau, https://www.muma-lehavre.fr
The museum has the second-largest Impressionist collection in France. It was the first museum rebuilt after World War II, inaugurated by famous author & then Minister of Culture, André Malraux, in 1961. There are paintings by Monet, Pissarro, Renoir, Degas, Courbet, Braque, Eugène Boudin, Sisley, Van Dongen, Matisse, Marquet, Dufy, Friesz, Derain. You can also enjoy a tasty meal in the museum restaurant, Les Fauves.

Street Art - Self-Guided Tour
Back in 2017, to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the founding of the city and the Port of Le Havre, there was a festival, Un Été au Havre, that has become an annual event. At the first fest, international artists were invited to create large-scale art installations. Every year since, new works of art have been added, gradually transforming the city into an open-air, contemporary art exhibit.

Stop by an Art Gallery: Galerie Éric Baudet (121 Avenue Foch, https://galerie-ericbaudet.fr) – Modern & contemporary art.

NATURE IN-TOWN: THE BEACH, PARKS & GARDENS
Parks & Gardens: During the rebuilding of Le Havre and the port’s renewal, the inclusion of green spaces was paramount. Hence, there are splendid parks, gardens and woodlands throughout the town. Enjoy a stroll through: Square Saint-Roch, Les Jardins Suspendus (Hanging Gardens); Parc de Rouelles, Parc Forestier de Montgeon, and more. 
Head to the Beach - La Plage

La Plage, Le Havre

All you have to do to get to the beach in Le Havre is hop on a tram (A&B, Last stop: La Plage). Then, stroll along the promenade, get a snack from one of the many seaside eateries, enjoy some water sports or rent a lounge chair (May-Sept) and just relax. But, mind your tootsies, it’s a pebble beach, not sand.

Making Your Trip To Le Havre Easier:
- Le Havre Brochures & Maps (in French & English)
- Bee Le Havre: 1-hour city tour
- Visit Le Havre with a “Greeter” This is a lovely concept: locals share their favorite Le Havre spots with you for free!

Catène de Containers, Vincent Canivet 

Getting Around: Le Harve has a very efficient transport network (LiA) that makes travel easy between the city center and various places of interest. There are 2 tram lines (A/B), 21 bus routes, and a funicular (connects uptown to downtown), plus miles of bike paths (rent a bike, LiA Vélos). And, of course, taxis.
Where to Dine: No shortage of restaurants, brasseries, creperies, etc.
Chez André (9 rue Louis Philippe, www.restauration-chezandre.fr) - For a truly, delicious meal, give this one a try.
Where To Stay: There’s every type of accommodation imaginable.
Hotel Vent d’Ouest (4 Rue de Caligny; https://www.ventdouest.fr/en) - A charming, 4-star boutique hotel & spa with a very-friendly staff in an excellent location.
Getting There: The Normandy region has its own train lines NOMAD; Paris - Gare Saint Lazare, direct to Le Havre (2 hours). Ferry from England: Portsmouth – Le Havre (8 hours) 
Nearby Jaunts: Visit other lovely towns along the Côte d'Albâtre. Normandy also has its own bus lines (NOMAD autocar): Ligne 509 connects Le Havre - Etretat - Fécamp. From Fécamp to Dieppe (Ligne 513, then 514).

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Going Green: The Normandy region encourages “green” travel with some unique offers:
Le Tarif bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Rate) – Get 10% off at various attractions by showing your train or bus ticket, or a photo of your bike! Sejours bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Visits) – Suggestions of places to visit that are easy to get to (& get around) without a car. If you really want to drive, rent an electric car! Explore Normandy Pass – Discounts throughout the region.
Claude Monet - 2026 marks the 100th anniversary of his death; there’ll be lots of special exhibits in Normandy.

Explore France’s Normandy Coastline, Côte d'Albâtre: Part ll: FÉCAMP: 5 Great Reasons To Visit

Fécamp (photo: Thomas Le Floc'H)

By Jacquelin Carnegie

There are so many reasons to explore France’s Normandy coastline: The Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster coast) is a stretch of chalk cliffs, like England’s white cliffs of Dover across The Channel, with several worthwhile stops along the way.
Fécamp is a charming place to vacation; a lovely, relaxing spot with lots of interesting sites because…it was once a coastal base for the Dukes of Normandy in the 11th century and the locale of an important Benedictine Abbey during the early Middle Ages. Also, over the centuries, Fécamp became France’s top cod fishing port and today you can enjoy a meal of freshly-caught fish at the Marché aux Poissons as well as in almost every restaurant in town!

THREE MUST-SEE SITES
Les Pêcheries - Musée de Fécamp
3 Quai Capitaine Jean Recher; www.musee-fecamp.fr (Open daily, Fee)

Crinolines sur la plage, Fécamp, Jules Achille Noel, 1871; Les Pêcheries

Housed in a former 1950’s cod-drying factory, Les Pêcheries is actually several museums combined into one, all related to the history of Fécamp: First, the museum presents a comprehensive idea of the local way of life over the centuries. Next, it details the history of cod and herring fishing, the most important commercial activity in the area since ancient times. (The Fécamp fishermen ventured as far north as the Canadian coast of Newfoundland to catch cod.) Then, there’s a collection of fine art paintings reflecting the sights, history and events pertinent to the area. Plus, a fascinating exhibit devoted to a local doctor, Dr. Léon Dufour, whose innovations in the 19th century saved the lives of infants worldwide. Last-but-not-least, on the top floor, there’s a 360° view of the surroundings: town, sea, and cliffs.

Palais Bénédictine
110 rue Alexandre Le Grand; www.benedictinedom.com (Open daily, Guided tour, Fee)

Palais Bénédictine

Even if you don’t drink or have any interest in liqueur, this is a must-visit. The Benedictine Palace is an architectural delight of neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance inspiration, built at the end of the 19th century with finely-decorated rooms, stunning stained-glass windows, and carved-wood walls.
Legend has it that in the Middle Ages a Benedictine monk came up with the recipe for a digestive based on 27 medicinal herbs and spices. The recipe was lost over time and only rediscovered in 1863 by a wine merchant from Fécamp, Alexander Le Grand. Monsieur Le Grant made Benedictine liqueur into a worldwide brand and built this amazing “palace” to house the only Benedictine distillery in the world as well as his eclectic collection of objects d’art. At the end of the tour, you also get to taste this unique liqueur.

Abbatiale de la Sainte Trinité - Abbey of the Holy Trinity of Fécamp
10 rue des Forts (Open daily; April-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-March, 9am-12pm/2-5pm; Free to visit; Guided tour in French, Fee)

Fécamp Abbey

From the 11th century onwards, Benedictine monks settled here at the invitation of the Dukes of Normandy as it had been a holy site for centuries and one of the first pilgrimage locations in Normandy. The Fécamp Abbey is an impressive Gothic structure (127 meters/417 feet long), almost the same length as the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris (128 meters/420 feet) with interior adornments of interest from several centuries, such as: the Tabernacle of the Precious Blood, the 15th-century sculpture of the Dormition of the Virgin, and the magnificent 17th-century, Astronomical clock displaying: time, moon phases, and the tides.

OTHER ACTIVITIES TO ENJOY
The Great Outdoors: There’s every kind of enjoyable, outdoor activity imaginable in this bucolic spot: hiking, biking, horseback-riding, sailing and, of course, just relaxing on the beach. Plus, several interesting Guided Tours (Tours in French; in English only for groups in case you’re traveling with many friends &/or your whole family in tow). Check with the tourism office for all the options: Fécamp Tourisme (Quai Sadi Carnot, Tel: +33 2 35 28 51 01) 

On the Beach, Fecamp, Berthe Morisot, 1873

Marché aux Poissons 

(2 rue du Commandant Riondel; Seasonal Opening hours: Fri & Sat, 9am-12:30pm/3pm-7pm; Tues-Thurs, 9am-12:30pm)
- Enjoy a freshly-caught, seafood meal at the Marché aux Poissons (fish market). Depending on the time of year, the best catch might be: cod, sole, bream, smoked & salt-cured herring (Oct-Jan), scallops (Oct-May), mackerel (summer), mussels, oysters, whelks & clams.

A LOVELY DAY TRIP
ÉTRETAT: This lovely, little village--known for its falaises, steep cliffs facing the sea, and rock arches (Aval, Amont & Manneporte)--has appealed to artistic types for centuries, such as writers (Guy de Maupassant, Victor Hugo, Gustave Flaubert, etc.) and painters (Claude Monet, Gustave Courbet, Eugène Boudin, etc.). Today, it’s just as inviting. Enjoy the landscape & these two worthwhile sites:
Les Jardins d'Étretat (Ave Damilaville; https://etretatgarden.fr; Closed: Dec-Feb; Fee) - Landscape architect Alexander Grivko transformed the grounds of a Belle Epoque villa into a magnificent, cliffside, topiary garden that features knock-out, contemporary art. Twice awarded the prestigious “Remarkable Garden” label by the French Ministry of Culture.

Les Jardins d’Étretat (photo: Yann Monel)

Clos Lupin – Maison Maurice Leblanc 

(15 rue Guy de Maupassant; Tel: +33 2 35 10 59 53; Fee) – Visit if you’re a fan of Leblanc’s books about the gentleman burglar, Arsène Lupin.
Dine: Restaurant du Perrey (3 rue Général Leclerc) – After sightseeing, enjoy a delicious meal with a spectacular view right on the waterfront. 
Getting to Étretat: From Fécamp or Le Havre by bus (autocar), Ligne 509. 
Or, from Fécamp, take a 2-hour speed boat excursion, La Mer pour Tous, or a 4-hour mini-cruise on a sail boat.

Making Your Trip to Fécamp Easier:
Where To Dine: Many good restaurants in town to choose from, plus the Marché aux Poissons.
Where To Stay: Absolutely all kinds of nice accommodations.
Hôtel Le Grand Pavois (15 Quai de la Vicomte; https://www.hotel-grand-pavois.com/en) - Nice, modern hotel in a great location, right on the harbor.
Getting around: In-town the Fici Bus. Fécamp Brochures & Maps (in French & English).

Fécamp harbor

Getting There: The Normandy region has its own train lines NOMAD; Paris - Gare Saint Lazare, change at Bréauté–Beuzeville for Fécamp (about 2 1/2hrs) 
Bus: FLIXBUS – Paris direct to Fécamp (around 3hrs)
Nearby Jaunts: Visit other lovely towns along the Côte d'Albâtre. Normandy also has its own bus lines (NOMAD autocar): Ligne 509 connects Fécamp - Etretat - Le Havre. From Fécamp to Dieppe (Ligne 513 to St Valéry en Caux, then 514 to Dieppe).

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Going Green: The Normandy region encourages “green” travel with some unique offers: Le Tarif bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Rate) – Get 10% off at various attractions by showing your train or bus ticket, or a photo of your bike! Sejours bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Visits) – Suggestions of places to visit that are easy to get to (& get around) without a car. If you really want to drive, rent an electric car! Explore Normandy Pass – Discounts throughout the region.

Parc Éolien - France’s first Offshore Wind Farm in Normandy, is off the coast of Fécamp; you can see it on a boat tour.

Claude Monet - 2026 marks the 100th anniversary of his death; there’ll be lots of special exhibits in Normandy.

Explore France’s Normandy Coastline, Côte d'Albâtre: Part lll: DIEPPE: 5 Great Reasons To Visit

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Eugene Boudin On the Beach, Dieppe (1864)

There are so many reasons to explore France’s Normandy coastline: The Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster coast) is a stretch of chalk cliffs, like England’s white cliffs of Dover across The Channel, with several worthwhile stops along the way.

Dieppe is considered France’s very first seaside resort and has the prestigious Ville d’Art et d’Histoire (“Town of Art & History”) label awarded by the French Ministry of Culture. It also has some of the best seafood restaurants along the coast!

A LOVELY SEASIDE TOWN
In the 19th century, the upper classes became preoccupied with their health. By mid-century, physicians began touting the medicinal benefits of fresh air, exercise, and sea bathing. European elites beat a path to the beach, making villes balnéaire (seaside towns) and “sea cures” all the rage.
Dieppe is considered France’s very first seaside resort as sea bathing began here as far back as 1822. In 1824, the famous Duchesse de Berry, daughter-in-law of King Charles X, arrived and turned it into a trendy locale. The British crossed The Channel by ferry and, in 1848, a railway line connected Paris to Dieppe and Parisians started to flock to town. Today, Dieppe is still a popular seaside resort. You can relax on the Plage de Dieppe, a long, pebble beach, stroll along the lovely esplanade, and stay at nice hotels right by the shore.

Kite Festival (photo: David Parry)

Festival International de Cerfs-Volants - Kite Festival (every 2 years, next one Sept 2027) – An exciting event that fills the sky over the beach with delightful shapes & colors!

A HAVEN FOR ARTISTS & WRITERS
In the 19th century, the fashionable seaside resort of Dieppe, also became popular with writers--attracted by its’ vibrant, Bohemian scene--and artists--enticed by its unique atmosphere and quality of light--that inspired them to paint the lively port and lovely beachfront with its dramatic cliffs.
Well-known artists such as J.M.W. Turner, Claude Monet & Camille Pissarro came here to paint. Others such as the German-British artist Walter Sickert came here to live. Famous writers such as Oscar Wilde & Guy de Maupassant came here to hang out.
Dieppe Office de Tourisme (Pont Jehan Ango; Tel: +33 2 32 14 40 60)
Take a fascinating tour of all the sights that inspired the painters & writers, stroll through Le Pollet, the historic, fishermen’s neighborhood, and learn the history behind the churches Église Saint-Jacques & Église Saint-Rémy.
a) Do self-guided, walking tours with the aid of these maps or b) The Tourism Office can arrange a guide such as Bertrand Edimo from the Dieppe Ville d’Art et d’Histoire office. (Tours in French, English, Spanish & German.)

Dieppe Harbor (photo: Lezbroz/Dieppe-Normandie Tourisme)

Château-Musée de Dieppe
(Rue de Chastes; Open: Feb-Dec, Wed-Sun, 10am-6pm; Fee)
Head up a steep hill to the fortress-castle museum, the Vieux-Château, rebuilt in 1435, houses the city’s maritime heritage and one of the finest collections of carved ivories in Europe. There are also Impressionist paintings by famous artists such as Renoir & Pissarro, and a room devoted to French composer Camille Saint-Saëns. Plus, great views over the town.

A GREAT PLACE TO DINE: SEAFOOD & LOCAL SPECIALTIES
After all, Dieppe is a fishing port and, over the centuries, herring and scallops have been two important catches for the community. In fact, Dieppe is France’s leading port for this exceptional shellfish (Coquille Saint-Jacques = scallops).

Fish Market (photo: Paul Grecaud)

Foire aux Harengs et à la Coquille Saint-Jacques - Herring & Scallop Festival (3rd weekend in November) – Not only seafood, but a town fair with entertainment & parades.
Local Specialties: Marché de Dieppe
(Saturday, 8am-1pm) - This Saturday-morning market was voted Plus Beau Marché de France (“Most Beautiful Market in France”). Some 200 vendor stalls run the entire length of the pedestrian street, the Grande Rue, right up to the Place du Puits-Salé, and along the side streets as well. Pick up some mouth-watering, local specialties such as Neufchâtel cheese, apple caramel spread, and cider. Fish, seafood, organic fruits & veggies, spices, and household items.

Dining & Drinks: Most of the chefs for Dieppe’s many, fine restaurants, pick out the freshest catch-of-the-day at the Marché aux Poissons.

Le Bas Fort Blanc (Photo: Khris Passenaud)

Bistrot des Barrières (5 Arcade de la Poissonnerie; Tel: +33 2 35 40 46 83) - The most delicious dishes of freshly-caught, local seafood served along with organic fruits & vegetables from a nearby farm. Everything is expertly-made in-house, including the bread.

Le Bas Fort Blanc (10 Rue Alexandre Dumas; Tel: +33 2 35 06 01 36) - Right on the ocean with stunning views, a large outdoor patio & indoor dining. Tasty, fresh-seafood offerings, great drinks, and fancy desserts.
Café des Tribunaux (Place du Puits Salé) - This historic place is best for drinks on the café terrace where Oscar Wilde and Guy De Maupassant used to hang out.

SPORTS GALORE: A GREAT PLACE TO HIKE & BIKE
In addition to all the fabulous watersports (surfing, sailing, kayaking, paddleboarding, etc.), you can go on local hikes and bike rides or do something a little more ambitious…

Sailing (photo: Ville de Dieppe)

Hiking Trail, GR21 – This is a long-distance, hiking trail that goes along Normandy’s Côte d'Albâtre. You could hike all the way from Le Havre to Dieppe and on to Le Tréport or just do smaller segments. 
3 Biking Routes: If you don’t have a bike, there are plenty of places to rent one.
1) Vélomaritime (EuroVelo 4) - This biking route goes along Normandy’s coastline. Instead of hiking, you could bike all the way from Le Havre to Dieppe and on to Le Tréport.
2) Véloroute du Lin - This is a lovely bike route through the countryside between Dieppe and Fécamp.
3) Avenue Verte - How ambitious are you? Bike all the way from Paris to Dieppe (& on to London via a ferry segment).

A LOVELY DAY TRIP
VARENGEVILLE-SUR-MER: Close to Dieppe, this lovely, little town has been a favorite spot for musicians, writers, and artists: the Impressionists Monet, Renoir, Pissarro, Corot and the Cubist artist Georges Braque, who became a resident, Surrealist painter Joan Miró and the Modernist sculptor Alexandre Calder. It’s as alluring today and worth a visit, especially for these two spots:

Église Saint-Valéry, marine cemetery
(photo: Mairie de Varengeville-sur-Mer)

Église Saint-Valéry (43 Rte de I’Église) – Perched atop the Ailly cliff, the church was originally built in the 12th century by Conches Abbey monks and enlarged in the 16th century. The interior is now adorned by modern art, notably stained-glass windows by Georges Braque and his student Raoul Ubac. Braque is buried in the church’s “sailors cemetery”; he designed his own gravestone, a mosaic of a bird in flight.
Musée Michel Ciry 

(6 bis rue Marguerite Rolle; https://www.museemichelciry.com Open: May-Sept, Wed-Mon, 2-6pm; April & Oct, weekends, 2-6pm; Fee) - Michel Ciry was a French painter, composer, and writer born in Brittany in 1919. He was known foremost as a master engraver and illustrator, but he did work in various mediums such as oil, watercolor, and ink. In 1964, he moved to Varengeville-sur-Mer where he lived until his death in 2018. In 2012, he created a museum to present a permanent collection of his work. A devout Christian, his art is largely devoted to sacred themes, but he also did lovely landscapes and touching portraits. Built next to his former farmhouse home, the museum is a stunning, modern structure that has space for temporary exhibits by other artists and offers cultural events such as concerts and readings, in tribute to his other achievements in music and literature.

Getting There: From Dieppe to Varengeville-sur-Mer, take bus (NOMAD autocar) Ligne 514 (around 1/2 hour); for another interesting visit, continue on to Veules-les-Roses (named one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”). 

Making Your Trip to Dieppe Easier:
Tourisme Pass (July-Sept; Fee) – Provides entry to many monuments & activities. 
Where To Stay: All kinds of accommodations to choose from, including those on the seafront. 

Michel Ciry Le Tréport 1976

Hôtel Aguado (30 Blvd de Verdun, https://www.hoteldieppe.com) - Family-run for 3 generations, the hotel offers the best of both worlds: it overlooks the sea & is also smack-dab in the middle of town, close to all the sights, shops & restaurants.

Getting Around: There’s a free shuttle bus that makes a loop around town from the train station to the beach & regular bus routes, DeepMob.
Petit Train de Dieppe (Feb-Nov; Fee) – Many French towns have a little, tourist train; a 45-minute loop of all the important sights. 
Getting There: The Normandy region has its own train lines NOMAD; Paris - Gare Saint Lazare, with a connection in Rouen to Dieppe (2 1/2 hours). 
Bus: FLIXBUS – Paris direct to Dieppe (around 3 hours)
Ferry from England: Newhaven – Dieppe (4 hours) 
Nearby Jaunts: Visit other lovely towns along the Côte d'Albâtre. Normandy also has its own bus lines (NOMAD autocar): From Dieppe to Fécamp (Ligne 514 to St Valéry en Caux, then 513). Ligne 509 connects Fécamp - Etretat - Le Havre.

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Going Green: The Normandy region encourages “green” travel with some unique offers: Le Tarif bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Rate) – Get 10% off at various attractions by showing your train or bus ticket, or a photo of your bike! Sejours bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Visits) – Suggestions of places to visit that are easy to get to (& get around) without a car. If you really want to drive, rent an electric car! Explore Normandy Pass – Discounts throughout the region. Claude Monet - 2026 marks the 100th anniversary of his death; there’ll be lots of special exhibits in Normandy.

Discover France’s La Vendée Region, Part 3: Noirmoutier Island - 11 Great Reasons To Visit

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Noirmoutier Island (photo: @lenamrzl)

La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western coast. It’s known for its’ lovely, beach towns such as Les Sables-d'Olonne and its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. Then, there’s Noirmoutier—an island that’s about as idyllic as beach life could get: totally peaceful and extremely picturesque. The French and other Europeans like to vacation here, and you will too. There’s great food, beautiful beaches, and some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France! 

Great Reasons To Visit: Sun, Sand, Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes!
Apart from by boat, for centuries, the only way to reach Noirmoutier Island was via the Passage du Gois, a tidal causeway only accessible at low tide. Finally, in 1971, a bridge was built making this vacation paradise more accessible. The best times to visit: April, May & June (to avoid the summer crowds) and September (if the weather is good).
1) Get Ready To Unwind: Complete Serenity
Maybe it’s the light or the microclimate (mild winters and temperate summers), but the moment you arrive, you relax. You’ll be charmed by the pretty surroundings, the lovely villages, the sunny weather, the crystal-blue water, the nice beaches, the simple, carefree lifestyle, the traditional white houses with blue shutters, the scent of mimosas…the food!
2) Explore The Island
It’s confusing, so just to be clear, the island is: l'Île de Noirmoutier. The main town is: Noirmoutier-en-l'île -- filled with cute, little shops, lots of great restaurants, and several historic sites.

Noirmoutier-en-ile (photo: @Trendz)

Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’île &/or Rue de Polder, Barbâtre) - First, stop at the tourism office for some itinerary suggestions & to pick up a map. Then, drive around or, since the island is relatively flat, go exploring by bike.
Visit the Villages & Neighborhoods: Barbâtre, la Guérinière, l'Épine, l'Herbaudière & Noirmoutier-en-l'île. L'Herbaudière Port: A lively fishing port with a marina, souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. Bois de la Chaise: An area of lovely villas and chalets surrounded by picturesque pines, mimosa & oak trees. See the Windmills – Since the 7th century, there have been windmills on the island. Of the 32 erected during the 19th century, 23 remain; several have been turned into unique, vacation homes.
3) Relax at The Beach

Plage des Dames (photo: J.Carnegie)

Noirmoutier is an island in the Bay of Biscay, so there are lovely beaches everywhere you turn. Some of the most popular: Plage des Dames, Plage des Sableaux, Anse Rouge & La Madeleine. Go to several and see which ones you like best!
4) Get A Refreshing Workout – Sports Galore
There are lots of water sports to enjoy: kitesurfing, paddleboarding, kayaking, water skiing, scuba diving, sailing, etc.
In addition to biking around the island, there are beautiful places to stroll and hike: along the beaches, through the salt marshes, and on lovely trails in the woods: Forêt de la Frandière in Barbâtre, Bois des Eloux in L'Epine & Bois de la Chaise in Noirmoutier. Plus: Horseback riding, tennis, fishing, etc.
5) Discover The Island’s Food Heritage: Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes
Noirmoutier’s year-round inhabitants are people who’ve lived off the land & sea for generations: mostly fisherman, potato farmers, and salt harvesters.
Salt: In the 7th century, Benedictine monks began transforming the island’s wetlands into salterns--basins where salt is cultivated. Today, there are about 100 salt harvesters (saunier) on the island, using traditional methods to harvest the “white gold” Fleur de sel.

Noirmoutier Potatoes (photo: Julien Gazeau)

Seafood: More than 100 fishing boats unload their catches here daily, including sole, sea bass, striped mullet, lobsters, etc. Locals also like to dig for clams & shrimp and harvest oysters & the delectable bouchot mussels.
Potatoes: Noirmoutier is famous for its’ potatoes--the Sirtema, the Lady Cristl, the Charlotte, but especially the Bonnotte. Planted by hand, grown in sandy soil, and fertilized with seaweed, which gives them their unique flavor.
Les Saveurs de l'ile de Noirmoutier - You can find these and other specialties such as cookies & pastries at little shops and at weekly “Farmers’ Markets” throughout the island. All local products are certified; look for the label Saveurs de l’île de Noirmoutier (Flavors of Noirmoutier Island).
6) Enjoy Some of The Most Delicious Meals You’ll Ever Eat
The chefs here benefit from the island’s bounty to create amazing dishes. Each restaurant offers its own take on Noirmoutier's cuisine. There are many to choose from; start with these: 
Le 11 (11 Quai Cassard, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 11 11; https://le11denoirmoutier.com) - Right on the waterfront, a casual, very-friendly spot with tasty meals; try their special: Fish & Chips.

Bouchot Mussels (photo; @Trendz)

Le P’tit Noirmout (10 Rue du Marché, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 79 52; https://www.le-ptit-noirmout.com) - Good food in a lively, fun atmosphere.
Le Petit Bouchot (3 Rue Saint-Louis, Noirmoutier-en-l'île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 32 56; https://www.restaurant-noirmoutier.com) - Delicious meals in a very staid, traditional setting.
La Potinière (27 Ave Georges Clemenceau, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 09 61; https://potinierenoirmoutier.com) – A very-modern fish & seafood place, right at the beach, Plage des Dames in Bois de la Chaise.
La Marine*** (5 Rue Marie Lemonnier, L'Herbaudière, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 23 09; https://www.alexandrecouillon.com) - Michelin 3-star restaurant, booked a year in advance. Chef Alexandre Couillon uses only the freshest, local ingredients: seafood right from the port across the street and herbs & vegetables from his own “kitchen garden.” His wife Céline also runs the more-casual, bistro next door La Table d'Elise. Can’t get into either, get some tasty goodies at their little pastry/grocery shop, Le Petit Couillon.
7) Go on a Guided Tour
Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’ile; Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 80 71) - The Tourism Office offers several interesting Tours (only in French), but some you could enjoy anyway such as a boating excursion. It’s worth checking out what they have to offer. In addition…

Marais Salants (photo: Simon Bourcier)

Visite des Marais Salants – Visit a salt basin to see how the Fleur de sel is harvested. (Marais de Bonne Pogne: May-Sept, tour in English.)
Visite de la Criée à L'Herbaudière Port – Tour the port and the “criée” (fish auction market) where all the fishing boats unload their daily catch. (Tour in French only.) 
8) Take Part In Unique Island Activities
La Fête de la Bonnotte (May) – On the 1st Saturday in May, Noirmoutier’s illustrious Bonnotte potato is feted with an elaborate, communal meal followed by a concert. In the morning, you can go into the fields to pick your own potatoes.
Les Foulées du Gois (June) – Athletes race across the Passage du Gois against the rising tide. Or, just consult the tide schedule and walk or bike across any time at your leisure.
9) Learn More About The Island’s Historic Heritage
Noirmoutier-en-l'île has several historic sites to visit:

Windmill house (photo: J.Carnegie)

Château de Noirmoutier (Place d'Armes) – This 12th century castle is now a museum. Climb to the top for a great panoramic view.

Hôtel Jacobsen (Rue Saint Louis) – Once the home of the influential Jacobsen family, it’s now a maritime-history museum.
Église Saint-Philbert (2 rue du Cheminet) – This 11th century church was built on the grounds of the former Benedictine Abbey, founded in 674 by the monk Saint-Philbert.
10) Be Entertained
Les Salorges (22 Quai Jean Bart, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île) - At this performance center, even if you don’t speak French, there are lots of dance & concert programs to enjoy as well as many programs for kids.
Several cafés in the various villages have live music in the evenings and/or go to the movies (always a few English-language films): Le Mimosa (73 Ave Joseph Pineau, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île). 
11) Be Welcomed Like Family
The people in all the shops, restaurants, and guesthouses are very welcoming—especially if you arrive off-season, in the spring or fall, as I’m recommending.
Where To Stay: There’s everything from hotels to Maison d'hôtes (guesthouses) to camping grounds and rental homes. Here’s a lovely place to start: 

The Corner

The Corner - Maison d'hôtes (2 rue du Général Leclerc, Noirmoutier-en-l’île;
Tel: +33 (0)6 09 86 17 79; https://www.thecorner-no.fr) - When traveling to some place you’ve never been before, it’s nice to be welcomed with open arms. The Corner, is owned by an American, Diane, and her French-chef husband, Raphael. It’s like staying with family you just never met before. Located in the center of lovely Noirmoutier-en-l’île, right by all the cute little shops, the house dates from 1814 and was the home of the former mayor. Completely renovated, today there are 5 beautifully-decorated guest rooms—perfect for romantic getaways. And, in the adjoining property, there are larger rooms great for families or groups of friends traveling together. The amount of thought and attention to detail that has gone into decorating & outfitting each guest room is truly amazing. That, plus Chef Raphael’s delicious meals makes The Corner the perfect place to start your vacation on Noirmoutier Island.
Getting Around: You can rent a car or a bike or hop on the little

Passage de Gois (photo: @alamoureux)

tourist train, Noirmout'Train. 

Getting There: From Paris: SNCF Train to Nantes with a connecting bus, Aléop coach #13 (2hrs & 1.5hrs). Airport: Nantes Atlantique (then an hour drive to the island). Or, consult the tide schedule and drive, bike or walk across the Passage du Gois!

Discover France’s La Vendée Region: Part I: Les Sables-d'Olonne - A Seaside Haven for Lovers of Sailing, Seafood & Sandy Beaches!

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Les Sables (photo: Alexandre Lamoureu)

La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western, Atlantic coast (below Nantes and above La Rochelle). While La Vendée is not as well-known to Americans as Provence or Normandy, it's a place where the French and other Europeans like to vacation. It's known for its long coastline, sandy beaches &Alex Noirmoutier Island as well as its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. There’s great food, plus plenty to see and do. Also, La Vendée has some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France!
SO MUCH TO “SEA” - LES SABLES-D'OLONNE: VILLE BALNEAIRE
Along La Vendée’s coastline, called France’s Côte de Lumière (Coast of Light), there are several lovely villes balnéaires (beach towns). Les Sables-d'Olonne is one of the most popular with so much to offer:
10+ UNIQUE THINGS TO DO IN SABLES-D'OLONNE
For centuries, Les Sables-d'Olonne has been home to sailors, seafarers, and fishermen. Today, these old-world traditions continue in a town enhanced by modern-day comforts and lots of enjoyable activities.

Raphael Toussaint "La Villa Blanche, Les Sables d'Olonne"

Explore the Town
- Go For A Promenade: Start your visit with a walk on Le Remblai, the oceanfront promenade, lined with restaurants, cafes, and shops.
- Stroll Through The Neighborhoods: This is a very walkable town with lots to see along the way. The narrow streets are lined with different types of houses from modest fishermen’s homes to fancy beach villas. La Chaume is the oldest section of town, still inhabited by fishermen. Les Sables' historic Le Passage district has old shipowners' houses and one of the narrowest streets in the world, Rue de l'Enfer. In the L'île Penotte neighborhood, local artist Danièle Arnaud Aubin has covered the walls with delightful, seashell mosaic murals.
- Check Out The Shopping: In the Centre-Ville (Town Center) around the
Notre Dame de Bon Port, one of Les Sables’ oldest churches from 1646, classified as a monument historique, there are “rues piétonnes” (pedestrian streets) lined with lovely boutiques: Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, Rue des Halles & Rue Jean Moulin. Nearby, feast on a vast array of local produce 

Marché des Halles Centrales (photo: S. Bourcier)

in the Marché des Halles Centrales, a stunning, cast-iron & glass covered, food market, designed by local architect Charles Smolski in 1890.

Visites Guidées (Guided Tours in French & English): You can explore all these places on your own or go on a tour organized by Les Sables-d’Olonne Tourism Office (Tel: +33 2 51 96 85 85)

Take Advantage of All the Options
- Do Some Sunbathing: On the Grande Plage, the town beach, or go further up the coast to the magnificent Plage de Paracou, Plage d’Aubraie & Plage de Granges, where there’s a surf school.

Plage d’Aubraie (photo: J.Carnegie)

- Enjoy All The Culture: Go to the Musée de l'Abbaye Sainte-Croix (MASC) – a wonderful modern & contemporary art collection. For WWII history buffs, there’s the Musée Blockhaus Hôpital – a restored, German hospital bunker from 1943. Seashell collectors will lose their mind in the fabulous Musée du Coquillage. Plus, attend concerts and all-manner of events & happenings in season. This is a French, seaside town so, of course, there’s a casino; place your bets at the Casino des Atlantes or the Casino JOA Les Pins.

- Get Some Exercise: In addition to beachcombing, hiking and biking are popular activities here along with all the usual offerings: golf, tennis, swimming, etc.
- Fun for the Kids: There’s a zoo and an aquarium and a million other great activities for children.

Experience The Best: Sailing, Seafood & Salt
- Sail Away: Whether a novice or an experienced sailor, Les Sables’s Port Olona marina is the spot for you. The Sports Nautiques Sablais offers sailing for every level and at the Institut Sports Océan indulge in any number of nautical activities--sailing, surfing, windsurfing, kayaking, etc. 

(photo: Vendée Globe)

Vendée Globe: This is of special interest to sailing enthusiasts. The Vendée Globe is a prestigious, solo, unassisted, around-the-world, non-stop yacht race for the top sailors in the world. It takes place every four years (the 11th edition will be in 2028). The race starts & finishes in Les Sables-d'Olonne. There are usually around 40 international, world-class competitors. Start planning if you'd like to attend the next one as spectator or sailor! Get a ring-side seat in the Vendée Globe Village, this special area is set up on the Port Olona esplanade. There are also several “Hospitality Package” offerings.

- Feast On Sensational Seafood: Les Sables-d'Olonne’s Port de Pêche is one of France’s main fishing ports with catch such as sole, sea bass, hake, cuttlefish, tuna fish, crustaceans…and, a Vendéen specialty: sardines. This tasty, fresh-from-the-ocean seafood can be enjoyed at restaurants throughout town.
- Learn About “White Gold”: The Salt Of The Sea: In medieval times, Olonne salt was highly-prized and it’s still considered “white gold.” Today, you can visit the salt marshes--which look like a beautiful, tranquil nature sanctuary—on your own or on a tour (in French only). Salt forms when sea water, brought into the marsh basins, evaporates due to the sun & wind. Fine salt (fleur de sel) crystallizes on the surface of the basins and coarse salt on the bottom. By springtime, the salt is ready to be harvested and you can watch a demonstration.

Dine In Style: At these restaurants, the fish is so fresh it’s as if it leapt from the ocean onto your plate:

(photo: StudioBCarre)

Le Poisson Rouge (20 Quai Guiné) – Delicious dining.
Restaurant Le Port (24 Quai George V) – The freshest seafood & friendliest service.
La Suite SVP (20 Bd Roosevelt) - Nouvelle cuisine by chef Mélanie Sire.
La Pendule (67 Promenade Georges Clemenceau) – Crêperie right on Le Remblai.
Where To Stay: There is every kind of accommodation: hotels, bed & breakfasts, vacation rentals, etc. Hotel Coeur Marin (8 Bd Franklin Roosevelt) – A pleasant, conveniently-located option with a friendly staff.
Getting There: By train: TGV, Paris - Les Sables d'Olonne (about 3½ hrs).
By plane: Nantes-Atlantique airport or La Rochelle/Ile de Ré airport (1½ hrs).