Discover France’s La Vendée Region, Part 3: Noirmoutier – Island Life: Sun, Sand, Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes!

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Noirmoutier (photo: @lenamrzl)

La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western coast. It’s known for its’ lovely, beach towns such as Les Sables-d'Olonne and its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. Then, there’s Noirmoutier—an island that’s about as idyllic as beach life could get: totally peaceful and extremely picturesque. The French and other Europeans like to vacation here, and you will too. There’s great food, beautiful beaches, and some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France! 
11 GREAT REASONS TO VISIT NOIRMOUTIER ISLAND
Apart from by boat, for centuries, the only way to reach Noirmoutier Island was via the Passage du Gois, a tidal causeway only accessible at low tide. Finally, in 1971, a bridge was built making this vacation paradise more accessible. The best times to visit: April, May & June (to avoid the summer crowds) and September (if the weather is good).
1) Get Ready To Unwind: Complete Serenity
Maybe it’s the light or the microclimate (mild winters and temperate summers), but the moment you arrive, you relax. You’ll be charmed by the pretty surroundings, the lovely villages, the sunny weather, the crystal-blue water, the nice beaches, the simple, carefree lifestyle, the traditional white houses with blue shutters, the scent of mimosas…the food!
2) Explore The Island
It’s confusing, so just to be clear, the island is: l'Île de Noirmoutier. The main town is: Noirmoutier-en-l'île -- filled with cute, little shops, lots of great restaurants, and several historic sites.

Noirmoutier-en-ile (photo: @Trendz)

Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’île &/or Rue de Polder, Barbâtre) - First, stop at the tourism office for some itinerary suggestions & to pick up a map. Then, drive around or, since the island is relatively flat, go exploring by bike.
Visit the Villages & Neighborhoods: Barbâtre, la Guérinière, l'Épine, l'Herbaudière & Noirmoutier-en-l'île. L'Herbaudière Port: A lively fishing port with a marina, souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. Bois de la Chaise: An area of lovely villas and chalets surrounded by picturesque pines, mimosa & oak trees. See the Windmills – Since the 7th century, there have been windmills on the island. Of the 32 erected during the 19th century, 23 remain; several have been turned into unique, vacation homes.
3) Relax at The Beach

Plage des Dames (photo: J.Carnegie)

Noirmoutier is an island in the Bay of Biscay, so there are lovely beaches everywhere you turn. Some of the most popular: Plage des Dames, Plage des Sableaux, Anse Rouge & La Madeleine. Go to several and see which ones you like best!
4) Get A Refreshing Workout – Sports Galore
There are lots of water sports to enjoy: kitesurfing, paddleboarding, kayaking, water skiing, scuba diving, sailing, etc.
In addition to biking around the island, there are beautiful places to stroll and hike: along the beaches, through the salt marshes, and on lovely trails in the woods: Forêt de la Frandière in Barbâtre, Bois des Eloux in L'Epine & Bois de la Chaise in Noirmoutier. Plus: Horseback riding, tennis, fishing, etc.
5) Discover The Island’s Food Heritage: Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes
Noirmoutier’s year-round inhabitants are people who’ve lived off the land & sea for generations: mostly fisherman, potato farmers, and salt harvesters.
Salt: In the 7th century, Benedictine monks began transforming the island’s wetlands into salterns--basins where salt is cultivated. Today, there are about 100 salt harvesters (saunier) on the island, using traditional methods to harvest the “white gold” Fleur de sel.

Noirmoutier Potatoes (photo: Julien Gazeau)

Seafood: More than 100 fishing boats unload their catches here daily, including sole, sea bass, striped mullet, lobsters, etc. Locals also like to dig for clams & shrimp and harvest oysters & the delectable bouchot mussels.
Potatoes: Noirmoutier is famous for its’ potatoes--the Sirtema, the Lady Cristl, the Charlotte, but especially the Bonnotte. Planted by hand, grown in sandy soil, and fertilized with seaweed, which gives them their unique flavor.
Les Saveurs de l'ile de Noirmoutier - You can find these and other specialties such as cookies & pastries at little shops and at weekly “Farmers’ Markets” throughout the island. All local products are certified; look for the label Saveurs de l’île de Noirmoutier (Flavors of Noirmoutier Island).
6) Enjoy Some of The Most Delicious Meals You’ll Ever Eat
The chefs here benefit from the island’s bounty to create amazing dishes. Each restaurant offers its own take on Noirmoutier's cuisine. There are many to choose from; start with these: 
Le 11 (11 Quai Cassard, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 11 11; https://le11denoirmoutier.com) - Right on the waterfront, a casual, very-friendly spot with tasty meals; try their special: Fish & Chips.

Bouchot Mussels (photo; @Trendz)

Le P’tit Noirmout (10 Rue du Marché, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 79 52; https://www.le-ptit-noirmout.com) - Good food in a lively, fun atmosphere.
Le Petit Bouchot (3 Rue Saint-Louis, Noirmoutier-en-l'île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 32 56; https://www.restaurant-noirmoutier.com) - Delicious meals in a very staid, traditional setting.
La Potinière (27 Ave Georges Clemenceau, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 09 61; https://potinierenoirmoutier.com) – A very-modern fish & seafood place, right at the beach, Plage des Dames in Bois de la Chaise.
La Marine*** (5 Rue Marie Lemonnier, L'Herbaudière, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 23 09; https://www.alexandrecouillon.com) - Michelin 3-star restaurant, booked a year in advance. Chef Alexandre Couillon uses only the freshest, local ingredients: seafood right from the port across the street and herbs & vegetables from his own “kitchen garden.” His wife Céline also runs the more-casual, bistro next door La Table d'Elise. Can’t get into either, get some tasty goodies at their little pastry/grocery shop, Le Petit Couillon.
7) Go on a Guided Tour
Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’ile; Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 80 71) - The Tourism Office offers several interesting Tours (only in French), but some you could enjoy anyway such as a boating excursion. It’s worth checking out what they have to offer. In addition…

Marais Salants (photo: Simon Bourcier)

Visite des Marais Salants – Visit a salt basin to see how the Fleur de sel is harvested. (Marais de Bonne Pogne: May-Sept, tour in English.)
Visite de la Criée à L'Herbaudière Port – Tour the port and the “criée” (fish auction market) where all the fishing boats unload their daily catch. (Tour in French only.) 
8) Take Part In Unique Island Activities
La Fête de la Bonnotte (May) – On the 1st Saturday in May, Noirmoutier’s illustrious Bonnotte potato is feted with an elaborate, communal meal followed by a concert. In the morning, you can go into the fields to pick your own potatoes.
Les Foulées du Gois (June) – Athletes race across the Passage du Gois against the rising tide. Or, just consult the tide schedule and walk or bike across any time at your leisure.
9) Learn More About The Island’s Historic Heritage
Noirmoutier-en-l'île has several historic sites to visit:

Windmill house (photo: J.Carnegie)

Château de Noirmoutier (Place d'Armes) – This 12th century castle is now a museum. Climb to the top for a great panoramic view.

Hôtel Jacobsen (Rue Saint Louis) – Once the home of the influential Jacobsen family, it’s now a maritime-history museum.
Église Saint-Philbert (2 rue du Cheminet) – This 11th century church was built on the grounds of the former Benedictine Abbey, founded in 674 by the monk Saint-Philbert.
10) Be Entertained
Les Salorges (22 Quai Jean Bart, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île) - At this performance center, even if you don’t speak French, there are lots of dance & concert programs to enjoy as well as many programs for kids.
Several cafés in the various villages have live music in the evenings and, if you speak &/or understand French, go to the movies: Le Mimosa (73 Ave Joseph Pineau, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île). 
11) Be Welcomed Like Family
The people in all the shops, restaurants, and guesthouses are very welcoming—especially if you arrive off-season, in the spring or fall, as I’m recommending.
Where To Stay: There’s everything from hotels to Maison d'hôtes (guesthouses) to camping grounds and rental homes. Here’s a lovely place to start: 

The Corner

The Corner - Maison d'hôtes (2 rue du Général Leclerc, Noirmoutier-en-l’île;
Tel: +33 (0)6 09 86 17 79; https://www.thecorner-no.fr) - When traveling to some place you’ve never been before, it’s nice to be welcomed with open arms. The Corner, is owned by an American, Diane, and her French-chef husband, Raphael. It’s like staying with family you just never met before. Located in the center of lovely Noirmoutier-en-l’île, right by all the cute little shops, the house dates from 1814 and was the home of the former mayor. Completely renovated, today there are 5 beautifully-decorated guest rooms—perfect for romantic getaways. And, in the adjoining property, there are larger rooms great for families or groups of friends traveling together. The amount of thought and attention to detail that has gone into decorating & outfitting each guest room is truly amazing. That, plus Chef Raphael’s delicious meals makes The Corner the perfect place to start your vacation on Noirmoutier Island.
Getting Around: You can rent a car or a bike or hop on the little

Passage de Gois (photo: @alamoureux)

tourist train, Noirmout'Train. 

Getting There: From Paris: SNCF Train to Nantes with a connecting bus, Aléop coach #13 (2hrs & 1.5hrs). Airport: Nantes Atlantique (then an hour drive to the island). Or, consult the tide schedule and drive, bike or walk across the Passage du Gois!

Côte Fleurie: Cabourg & Honfleur, France – Proust & Impressionist Painters

Honfleur, Vieux Bassin ©SMA76T.LeMassonBanningLover

By Jacquelin Carnegie

HONFLEUR: SOAK IN THE BEAUTY

“A ravishing port full of masts and sails, crowned with green hills and surrounded by narrow houses”--this is how the famous author Victor Hugo described Honfleur in the 19th century--and it’s still so today.
Honfleur is another truly-lovely town on Normandy’s “Côte Fleurie” (Flowery Coast) that has been a favorite of artists for centuries. Spend some time in the heart of town admiring the Vieux Bassin (old harbor), lined with 16th- to 18th-century houses, and you’ll understand why.
Have a plateau de fruits de mer (seafood platter) at one of the charming cafés. Try some local, apple-brandy Calvados and delicious Normandy cheeses. Then, stroll along the winding, cobblestone streets stopping into quaint shops and art galleries. But, be sure to visit these sites:

An Inspiration To Artists

Claude Monet, Impression, Sunrise (1872)
Musée Marmottan

It’s thought, among many art historians, that Impressionism originated here. The artist Eugène Boudin, born in Honfleur, was Claude Monet’s mentor, introducing him to en plein air (in the open air) painting--working outdoors rather than in a studio. In 1858, when Monet was just 18 years old, Boudin coaxed him to paint the nature around them--clouds, sun, the seashore--and the way objects changed according to the fluctuating daylight. Boudin’s plein-air style was also an inspiration to many future generations of artists who flocked to Honfleur from Georges Seurat, the founder of Neo-Impressionism (Pointillism), in 1886 to Raoul Dufy in 1928, who credits Honfleur as the place he found his own, true painting style.

Musée Eugène Boudin
Place Erik Satie; https://tinyurl.com/54bry8bk

Eugène Boudin, Summer at Trouville (1890-94)
Musée Malraux Le Havre

Honfleur, the inspiration for Impressionist and pre-Impressionist masters such as JMW Turner, Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot, Gustave Courbet, Édouard Villard, Johan Jongkind, and Claude Monet, was also the birthplace of Eugène Boudin.
This lovely museum houses a splendid selection of Boudin’s artwork along with a collection of paintings of Honfleur and the Normandy coast done by other prominent, 19th- and 20th-century artists. There are also displays of vintage photographs, tourism posters, antiques, and changing, temporary exhibits.

Maisons Satie
67 Blvd Charles V; https://tinyurl.com/p73p9y8r

Maisons Satie ©Florian Vimont

Honfleur is also the birthplace of Erik Satie, an acclaimed, early 20th-century, avant-garde composer and musician. Satie worked with composers Debussy, Ravel, and Stravinsky as well as with artists and writers such as Picasso, Braque, Cocteau, and filmmaker René Clair. The museum provides a whimsical, surreal way to experience his art and music collaborations.

Église Sainte-Catherine
Place Sainte-Catherine

©OTC Honfleur

St. Catherine's is such a unique church. Constructed by shipbuilders in the 15th century, it’s made entirely of wood. The interior resembles the hull of a ship with many decorative, nautical details. It’s thought to be the largest, wooden church in France.

Being There:
Eat: Lots of great places to eat; (try the oyster bar Entre Terre et Mer).

Stay: There’s everything from B&Bs to luxury hotels.
Cruises: The Seine River meets the sea at Honfleur, so it’s a port-of-call for both riverboats and small, ocean liners. If you enjoy cruising, it’s one way to get here. However, as beautiful as Honfleur is, on the days the cruises arrive, the town is often overrun with tour groups. If you find this a bother, check cruise dates with the Honfleur Tourism office, so you don’t arrive when they do. 

***

CABOURG: THE BELLE ÉPOQUE COMES TO LIFE

Famed author Marcel Proust vacationed in Trouville in his younger days. But, when his pals in Paris’ social circles moved on to Cabourg, another magnificent seaside resort on the Calvados coast, so did he.
During the Belle Époque, Proust summered in Cabourg from 1907 to 1914, drawing inspiration for his literary masterpiece, the seven-volume, À la Recherche du Temps Perdu (In Search of Lost Time).

La Villa du Temps Retrouvé
15 Ave du Président Raymond Poincaré; villadutempsretrouve.com
(Open: March-Nov; Guided tours are offered in French & English)

La Villa du Temps Retrouvé

While the Belle Époque era (1870-1914) is over, you can experience what it must have been like with a visit to this marvelous house-museum. The rooms’ décor evokes the style of living that Marcel Proust and his pals (and his novel’s characters) would have been accustomed to. Through the Villa du Temps Retrouvé’s immersive experience, you get insight into Proust’s creative process and his sources of inspiration from paintings and photographs to books and music, to period furnishings and objets d'arts. And, with the use of innovative technology, Proust’s world comes to life. It’s a nice way to journey back in time to France’s “Beautiful Age” on the Côte Fleurie and to learn about the artistic and intellectual circles of the Belle Époque.

Grand Hôtel de Cabourg
Les Jardins Du Casino; www.grand-hotel-cabourg.com

(photo: JCarnegie)

From 1907 to 1914, Marcel Proust spent his summers here in Room 414. In Volume II of À la Recherche du Temps Perdu (In Search of Lost Time), À L'Ombre des Jeunes Filles en Fleur, the seaside resort “Balbec” is none other than Cabourg. The narrator of the novel stays here with his grandmother for the summer—doesn’t that sound nice? Splurge and stay here yourself. Or, if that’s out of the budget, at least stop by for tea. Try the hotel’s special: “Le Gouter Proustien” (tea with madeleines).

Getting There:
To get to Cabourg &/or Honfleur, take the fast train (TGV) from Paris to the Trouville-Deauville train station (2hrs). Then, a taxi, Central Taxis Deauville (+33 2 31 87 11 11), about 20 mins in either direction. Or, a bus, NomadCar Bus #20, to Cabourg or Honfleur (about 30 mins). Or, drive. It’s around 2 hours from Paris to Cabourg/Honfleur on Autoroute A13 or meander along discovering other lovely areas of the Normandy region on the way. 

Eugène Boudin, Boats and Breakwater, (1890-97)
Musée Malraux Le Havre

Nearby Jaunts:
Visit all the towns along the “Côte Fleurie” Calvados coastline such as Deauville & Trouville. And, while in the Calvados area of Normandy, perhaps visit a distillery or do the Calvados Expérience in Pont-l’Evêque. (Pont-l’Evêque is also the name of a famous Normandy cheese which you can buy in the area or, if curious, tour a cheese maker, Fromagerie E. Graindorge.)

Côte Fleurie: Deauville, France - Glamour, Horse Races, Fashion & Film

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Deauville Beach (photo: Béatrice Augier/inDeauville)

Deauville is a beautiful, ritzy, seaside resort on Normandy’s “Côte Fleurie” (Flowery Coast). It’s been an upscale, holiday destination since the 1860s, when Dr. Joseph Olliffe, a physician to the French & British upper class, along with his pal, the Duke of Morny (Napoleon III’s half-brother), basically put Deauville “on the map” with the help of their rich, investor-friends. 
Life’s A Beach: It’s amazing what vision paired with money and influence can produce. In a few short years a railway line from Paris was laid. Grand hotels were built. Swank beach-bathing facilities were installed and posh horse races began. In 1911, a grand casino was built. In 1923, the Promenade des Planches, the now-famous, wooded

(photo: Delphine Barré Lerouxel/inDeauville)

boardwalk paralleling the seaside, was created. Deauville became one of the most prestigious seaside resorts in France, and has remained fashionable to this day.
But, while posh Parisians still come for the sporting life and chic boutiques, the horse races cost only a few Euros, the American Film Festival is open to the public, and the beautiful, wide, sandy beach is accessible to everyone.

THE RACING LIFE
Hippodrome de Deauville-La Touques (Racetrack)
45 Ave Hocquart de Turtot

Hippodrome (photo: Scoopdyga/inDeauville)

Since it opened in 1864, the Hippodrome has attracted the top international trainers and jockeys, and an elite clientele to watch the crème-de-la-crème of racehorses run. But any horse-racing enthusiast can enjoy some 40+ regular races throughout the year as the tickets are only a few Euros. (It’s even possible to place a bet, if you know how to pick’em.) There’s also a second track Deauville-Clairefontaine (Route de Clairefontaine) and a renowned training center. If you prefer polo matches, some of the world’s best teams play here in August as the Deauville International Polo Club, founded in 1907, is one of the oldest in France. Before the renowned Deauville-La Touques racetrack was built--thanks to the Duke of Morny--horse racing took place on the beach. The horses are still brought here at dawn & dusk for workouts as the sea water is good for their legs.

SHOPPING IN FASHION
The town is chock-a-block with high-end, luxury stores such as Hermès, Louis Vuitton, and Ralph Lauren. This is fitting as Coco Chanel opened her first clothing boutique here in 1913. Brought to Deauville by Boy Capel, her English, polo-player

beau, Chanel admired the fishermen’s mariniere (striped shirts) and the polo players’ knit-jersey sweaters. To stay warm and comfy, she borrowed clothing from Capel--a striped shirt, a knit sweater, a pair of pants--causing a sensation. But, she was sure that other women visiting the resort area would want comfortable clothing, too. Chanel then designed a line of prêt-à-porter, loose-fitting, knit garments; basically, launching a new clothing category: “chic sportswear.” The rest is fashion history and it all started here.

CULTURAL CONNECTIONS
Les Franciscaines
145 B Ave De La République; lesfranciscaines.fr

Les Franciscaines (photo: Moatti-Riviere)

It’s worth coming to France just to experience Deauville’s newest cultural center--Les Franciscaines. Housed in a magnificent building that once was a Franciscan convent, the beautifully-restored facility is now a unique combo of: museum, library, médiathèque, snack bar, cinema, lecture hall. In short, the absolute, coolest place you’ve ever hung out. The architectural makeover is stunning, the décor is sublime—each area is color-coordinated and theme-related. Oh, yeah, there’s an art collection of over 500 paintings. And, temporary exhibits, and photos. Also, workshops for kids & adults. Or, you can just sit there and read a magazine. Either way, you won’t want to leave.

Deauville American Film Festival (Sept)

Johnny Depp/Catherine Deneuve
(photo: Deauville American Film Festival)

This prestigious festival began in 1975 to promote American cinema and attract American and European screen stars to the area. 24/7 Screenings: Over the ten days, film screenings are held 24 hours a day. There are several categories such as: “Premieres” - screenings followed by Q&As with the creators; “Competition” - presenting indie films; “Uncle Sam’s Docs” - documentaries about American life; & “Window on French Cinema.” (Get a Day or Festival Pass to see great cinema and lots of celebrities!)

LIFE IS GRAND
In 1912, to continue attracting chic Parisians and British high society, Deauville opened two Grand hotels in the Normandy, timber-frame style: Hôtel Barrière-Le Normandy Deauville (38 Rue Jean Mermoz) and Hôtel Barrière-Le Royal Deauville (Blvd Cornuché BP). These lovely, luxury hotels continue to welcome an international, elite crowd along with movie stars and other celebrities. It’s worth

Le Normandy (photo: Group Barrière)

the splurge to stay at one of them but, if not in the budget, just come by to enjoy a delicious, afternoon tea or evening cocktail; sit in the lounges and gawk.
Right between the two hotels is the Casino Barrière de Deauville (2 rue Edmond Blanc). You can tempt “lady luck”, but you don’t have to be a gambler to spend an evening here. There’s an elegant, little theatre--a replica of the Petit Trianon at Versailles--where classic & contemporary dance, concerts, musicals, and even one-man shows are performed.

Other Sports Activities:
For duffers, there are world-class, golf courses such as the Golf Barrière Deauville & the Amirauté Golf. For swimmers or just anyone who enjoys a soak without having to go into the ocean, there’s the Piscine Olympique de Deauville (Blvd de la Mer). Two pools filled with heated, purified sea water. Like spending a day at a spa at a fraction of the cost. There’s also great sailing.

Porte Bassin Morny (photo: Naiade Plante/inDeauville)

Where To Stay: In addition to the aforementioned Grand hotels, there’s a range of accommodations to select from in Deauville and the surrounding area.
Getting There: Take the fast train (TGV) from Paris to the Trouville-Deauville train station (2hrs). Or, drive. From Paris to Deauville, it’s around 120 miles/194 km (2hrs) on Autoroute A13 (with tolls) or meander on back roads discovering other lovely areas of the Normandy region along the way.
Nearby Jaunts:
The “Côte Fleurie” is a succession of lovely towns on long, sandy beaches along the coastline of the Calvados area in the Normandy region. Visit all the towns such as Trouville, Honfleur & Cabourg.

Côte Fleurie: Trouville-sur-Mer, France - Seafood, Spa Treatments & Splendor

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Trouville villas (photo: Bertl123/Shutterstock)

It’s hard to say which is the prettiest town on Normandy’s “Côte Fleurie” (Flowery Coast), but Trouville is a contender. Even though it’s right next door to Deauville, it feels miles away, almost Mediterranean—bright, colorful, lively.
Trouville-sur-Mer was just a little, fishing port when Charles Mozin, a young Parisian artist, came to stay in 1825. He fell in love with the picturesque setting, the light, and the unspoiled natural scenery. An exhibition of his Trouville paintings in Paris enticed other artists to come to this scenic locale. Ever since, painters, writers, and vacationers have come to stay. Most of the things that impressed them in the 19th century are still here today—the beautiful beach, the magnificent villas, the freshest seafood, and the delightful ambience.

A PICTURESQUE PLACE
In addition to the beautiful quality of the light and the glorious beach, another alluring feature of Trouville is the fantastic architecture--splendid villas, built in the mid-19th century in different styles, ranging from Louis XIII to Neo-Classical to Neo-Italian, Neo-Moorish and even traditional Normandy, timber-frame. They’ve miraculously stood the test of time. The only change: several former, fancy hotels and single-family homes are now split up into apartments. Admire these lovelies as you wander around town:

La Tour Malakoff, Eugène Boudin

Villa Sidonia - One of the few villas to still belong to one family. Tour Malakoff - Artist Charles Mozin once lived in this castle-like villa. Villa Des Flots – Formerly-owned by the Eiffel family. Villa Persane – Marcel Proust was a frequent guest when the villa belonged to Princess de Sagan, who inspired a character in his novel, À la Recherche du Temps Perdu (In Search of Lost Time). Les Roches Noires - In the late-19th century, the Hôtel des Roches Noires was the most elegant hotel on the Normandy coast. Marcel Proust and international aristocracy stayed here. In 1949, it was converted into apartments. (The renowned author Marguerite Duras owned an apartment here until her death in 1996.) Villa Montebello – Built in 1865 in the Second Empire style for the Marquise de Montebello, it’s now Trouville’s museum.

IN THE MOOD FOR SEAFOOD
Halle aux Poissons (Fish Market)
152 Blvd Fernand Moureaux

(photo: JCarnegie)

At heart, Trouville-sur-Mer is still a picturesque, fishing port. Small, old-style trawlers go out for scallops and shrimp and various saltwater fish (sea bass, mackerel, sole, turbot) then head straight back into town. Hence, what’s on offer at the stalls in the famous “La Poissonnerie,” the covered fish market on the quay, just came off the boats. Tables are set up, so you can order a “plateau de fruits de mer” (seafood platter) right there. You couldn’t get a fresher catch unless you dove in the water yourself. This “Marché aux Poissons,” a national heritage site, is open 7 days a week, all year round.
Also on the quay, try the famous brasseries: Le Central (158 Blvd Fernand Moureaux) and Les Vapeurs (160 Blvd Fernand Moureaux).

“TAKING THE WATERS”
In the 19th century, the upper classes became preoccupied with their own well-being. To assuage their fears of frail health and disease, going to spas--with

(poster: H. Gray/Henri Boulanger) 

warm, medicinal, mineral springs and therapeutic bathing—became de rigueur. By mid-century, physicians began touting the curative qualities of fresh air, exercise, and sea bathing. European elites beat a path to the beach, making “villes balnéaire” (seaside towns) and “sea cures” all the rage. What made the resort famous in the 19th century, is still popular today, combined with the latest advances in “wellness” care.

Les Cures Marines - Hôtel & Spa 

(Blvd de la Cahotte) - The French have perfected “Thalassotherapy” treatments--the use of warm seawater, algae, seaweed, and alluvial mud--for restorative effects. (Thalasso is Greek for “sea.”) At Trouville’s The Purist Retreat & Spa, the benefits of sea water are combined with the latest techniques along with massage, fitness & relaxation exercises, nutritional assessments, and beauty treatments.

AN ARTISTIC HAVEN
So many artists have come to Trouville to paint magnificent seascapes and other seaside scenes: Eugène Boudin, Gustave Caillebotte, Corot, Paul Huet, Eugène Isabey, and Claude Monet. More recently, the eminent poster artist
Raymond Savignac was an enthusiastic resident until his death. (The Promenade des Planches boardwalk along the ocean, constructed in 1867, is now called Promenade Savignac with several of his posters on display.)

On the Beach at Trouville, Claude Monet (1870)

Next came writers in search of solitude and inspiration. When Alexandre Dumas showed up in the 1830s, he declared the village: “the most picturesque in Normandy.” When Gustave Flaubert arrived in 1836, he fell in love--with an older married woman, who became a character in his stories. (There’s a Flaubert statue by the casino.) Marcel Proust stayed here many times in the early 1890s as a guest of friends in various villas and at the Hôtel des Roches Noires. Proust greatly admired Trouville’s long beach and the Belle Époque villas and manor houses. Many of the places he stayed and the people he met became the inspiration for characters and locations in his famous novel, À la Recherche du Temps Perdu (In Search of Lost Time). Several of Marguerite Duras’ literary and film projects were conceived here. From 1963 on, she came every year to stay in her apartment in the former Hôtel des Roches Noires (a long staircase leading down to the beach is named after her). Creatives are still coming to chill and be inspired. But anyone would thrill to holiday on the “Reine des Plages” (Queen of Beaches) as Trouville’s stretch of sand has been known for centuries.

NEVER A DULL MOMENT: CULTURE, ENTERTAINMENT & MORE
Art & Sea Views

Villa Montebello

Musée Villa Montebello (64 Rue du Général Leclerc) - The museum is housed in this magnificent villa up on the hill with great views out over the water. Learn more about Trouville’s history as a “ville balnéaire” (seaside town) through the collection of paintings, prints, photographs, and temporary exhibits.

Galerie du Musée (32 Blvd Fernand Moureaux) – A gallery dedicated to the poster art of Raymond Savignac.
Here’s a selection of other cultural activities.
Les Jeux Sont Faits
Casino Barrière de Trouville (Place du Maréchal Foch) - When the casino opened in 1912, it was the largest in France. Today, there are slot machines, board games, a poker room & even electronic games. Or, just come to see the splendor, have a drink at the bar or dine in the restaurant.
A Fist Full Of Festivals
Several festivals to choose from; this is an annual favorite: 
Festival Off-Courts (Sept) - a very-popular, Franco-Quebec short film festival.
Some Sports Activities:

(poster: Savignac)

 

Lots to choose from such as surfing, kayaking, boating, etc., plus:

Trouville Tennis Plage – What could be better than playing tennis at the beach on faux-grass courts!
Complexe Nautique – Both an indoor & outdoor pool, open in season, right on the beach.
Wander Around
The word in French is “flâner”--just stroll around town. Check out the little side streets and the Rue des Bains, with all sorts of boutiques with local goods and shops full of regional specialties. The Trouville App might come in handy.
Where To Dine: There are several choices of restaurants on the quay, in town, and along the beach as well as tapas bars, wine bars, and tea & coffee shops.
Where To Stay: You’ll find everything from luxe accommodations to quaint Airbnbs.

Villa Persane

Getting There: Take the fast train (TGV) from Paris to the Trouville-Deauville train station (2hrs). Or, drive. It’s around 120 miles/194 km (2hrs) from Paris to Trouville on Autoroute A13 (with tolls) or meander along discovering other lovely areas of the Normandy region on the way.

Nearby Jaunts:
Visit all the towns along the “Côte Fleurie” Calvados coastline such as Deauville, Honfleur & Cabourg. 

Discover France’s La Vendée Region: Part II: Le Bocage – A Bucolic Landscape of History & Gastronomy!

By Jacquelin Carnegie

La Chabotterie (photo: Alexandre Lamoureux)

La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western coast. It’s known for its’ lovely, beach towns such as Les Sables-d'Olonne and Noirmoutier Island; there's also its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. The French and other Europeans like to come here on vacation, and you will too. There’s great food, plenty to see and do, and La Vendée has some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France!

5 UNIQUE EXPERIENCES IN LE BOCAGE 
Le Bocage Vendéen is the countryside, originally covered by small fields, enclosed by hedges and groves of trees. Today, it’s also an area with lots of interesting activities for the whole family. The fascinating history of this region is brought to life in lots of entertaining, informative ways.
Learn About The Region’s History In Beautiful Settings
Revolutionary 18th Century - Vendée War (1793-96)
In 1789, the French Revolution established a new government and a new social order, but the aftermath such as the Reign of Terror, forced conscription into the French Revolutionary army, and religious persecution caused the very-devout Vendeans to rebel, forming their own Catholic and Royal Army. Even after their army’s defeat, the Vendean resistance continued, led by General Charette. While the Vendée rebellion is sometimes viewed as a Royalist sympathizing, it was more a rebellion against an attack on their way of life.
Logis de la Chabotterie
Saint Sulpice le Verdon, Montréverd; logis-de-la-chabotterie
This is not only a beautiful place to visit, it’s also an important site of the Vendée War. On March 23, 1796, General Charette, nicknamed the “King of Vendée,” who led the Vendée resistance, was captured here in the woods of the Domaine de La Chabotterie. The Visitors Center has a fascinating exhibition about the war and all the major participants.

Logis de la Chabotterie (photo: Julien Gazeau)

The Logis (mansion) is a beautiful example of regional architecture, built at the end of the 14th century. Several rooms can be visited that have period furniture and decor from the end of the 18th century, reflecting the gentry’s country lifestyle. The grounds are also magnificent: there’s a French-style garden with medicinal plants, a kitchen garden with traditional vegetables, and an ornamental garden with around 120 floral varieties. There’s also a Michelin-starred restaurant, La Chabotterie, led by chef Benjamin Patissier.

Floralies Internationales (Alex Segura Arana)

 Floralies Internationales 

comite-des-floralies.com) - The 13th edition of this fabulous, international flower & garden show took place at the Domaine de La Chabotterie. On over 100 resplendent acres (48 hectares), garden designers and landscape architects from 200 international exhibitors created concept gardens for a totally-unique, cultural experience. The theme: “Jeux de Fleurs” (Flower Games) for the Olympic Games held in France. The next Floralies is in 2029.

Revel in the Medieval Heritage: Castles, Damsels & Knights
There are numerous castles to visit in the region. Each site aims to bring the illustrious past to life through historical reenactments and impressive spectacles. There are also specially-designed activities for kids such as interactive games and workshops. (Most are open April–September.) Here are a few suggestions: 

Chateau de Tiffauges

Château de Tiffauges - Experience Middle Ages pageantry at this 12th-century castle. Château de Saint-Mesmin - Learn about medieval games at this 14th-century fortress. Puy du Fou® - Voted one of the world’s best theme parks, the experience offers a journey through time from Antiquity to the 20th century. Through a variety of imaginative and spectacular shows, with hundreds of actors and expertly-trained animals, French history is brought to life (www.puydufou.com).

Enjoy the Regional Gastronomy - Les Produits du Terroir
The rich soil of the region enhances the taste of all the fruits and vegetables grown here. Also, the area is renowned for its organic beef, poultry, pork, etc. Many products from Le Bocage Vendéen bear the Label Rouge (red label) signifying the highest quality. While La Vendée boasts nine Michelin-starred restaurants, some regional bocage specialties include: jambon grillé (grilled ham), mogettes (white beans), fromage de chèvre (goat cheese), préfou (garlic bread), & brioche vendéenne.

Le Pap

Enjoy the regional cuisine at any number of restaurants whether nouvelle cuisine: 

La Pap (1 Rue des Jardins, La Bernardière; www.lapaprestaurant.fr) - Chef Alexandre Papin began his apprenticeship at age 15, then traveled the world working at restaurants run by top chefs in England, Canada, Australia, South Korea & Japan. Now, he’s come home and opened this marvelous place with his wife Priscila offering “fusion cuisine” made with products from local, organic farmers.

Or local dishes: Restaurant La Digue (9 Rue des Abreuvoirs, Montaigu; https://www.resto-ladigue.com) - Expect a warm-welcome and a great meal of regional dishes made from fresh, local ingredients at this friendly, family-run place right on the river in Montaigu.

Get The Most Out of Your Visit: Download maps, brochures, or get a Pass Touristique (Tourist Pass for adults & an “Intrepid Club” for kids) and, of course, an App. Chemin de fer de la Vendée - Go for a ride on a steam-engine train from 1900 that crosses over three valleys on viaducts for a unique, local experience on the Vendée Railway. 

Le Bocage (photo: Alexandre Lamoureux)

Getting There & Getting Around: Train: No matter what direction you’re coming from, getting off at Montaigu is a good place to start your visit to Le Bocage Vendéen. But, you’ll need a car to best visit the region; rent one at: Europcar Montaigu (Centre Point S ZA de Mirville, Boufféré, Montaigu; Tel: +33 2 51 46 39 77) 
Where To Stay: All through Le Bocage there are wonderful places to stay from castles to campsites. Le Céladon (13 Place du Champ de Foire, Montaigu; https://www.le-celadon.fr/en) - If arriving in Montaigu in summertime, this family-owned Bed & Breakfast has a huge garden with a lovely, outdoor pool & jacuzzi. 

Discover France’s La Vendée Region: Part I: Les Sables-d'Olonne - A Seaside Haven for Lovers of Sailing, Seafood & Sandy Beaches!

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Les Sables d'Olonne (photo: Alexandre Lamoureux)

La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western, Atlantic coast (below Nantes and above La Rochelle). While La Vendée is not as well-known to Americans as Provence or Normandy, it's a place where the French and other Europeans like to vacation. It's known for its long coastline, sandy beaches & Noirmoutier Island as well as its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. There’s great food, plus plenty to see and do. Also, La Vendée has some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France!
SO MUCH TO “SEA” - LES SABLES-D'OLONNE: VILLE BALNEAIRE
Along La Vendée’s coastline, called France’s Côte de Lumière (Coast of Light), there are several lovely villes balnéaires (beach towns). Les Sables-d'Olonne is one of the most popular with so much to offer:
10+ UNIQUE THINGS TO DO IN SABLES-D'OLONNE
For centuries, Les Sables-d'Olonne has been home to sailors, seafarers, and fishermen. Today, these old-world traditions continue in a town enhanced by modern-day comforts and lots of enjoyable activities.

Raphael Toussaint "La Villa Blanche, Les Sables d'Olonne"

Explore the Town
- Go For A Promenade: Start your visit with a walk on Le Remblai, the oceanfront promenade, lined with restaurants, cafes, and shops.
- Stroll Through The Neighborhoods: This is a very walkable town with lots to see along the way. The narrow streets are lined with different types of houses from modest fishermen’s homes to fancy beach villas. La Chaume is the oldest section of town, still inhabited by fishermen. Les Sables' historic Le Passage district has old shipowners' houses and one of the narrowest streets in the world, Rue de l'Enfer. In the L'île Penotte neighborhood, local artist Danièle Arnaud Aubin has covered the walls with delightful, seashell mosaic murals.
- Check Out The Shopping: In the Centre-Ville (Town Center) around the
Notre Dame de Bon Port, one of Les Sables’ oldest churches from 1646, classified as a monument historique, there are “rues piétonnes” (pedestrian streets) lined with lovely boutiques: Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, Rue des Halles & Rue Jean Moulin. Nearby, feast on a vast array of local produce 

Marché des Halles Centrales (photo: S. Bourcier)

in the Marché des Halles Centrales, a stunning, cast-iron & glass covered, food market, designed by local architect Charles Smolski in 1890.

Visites Guidées (Guided Tours in French & English): You can explore all these places on your own or go on a tour organized by Les Sables-d’Olonne Tourism Office (Tel: +33 2 51 96 85 85)

Take Advantage of All the Options
- Do Some Sunbathing: On the Grande Plage, the town beach, or go further up the coast to the magnificent Plage de Paracou, Plage d’Aubraie & Plage de Granges, where there’s a surf school.

Plage d’Aubraie (photo: J.Carnegie)

- Enjoy All The Culture: Go to the Musée de l'Abbaye Sainte-Croix (MASC) – a wonderful modern & contemporary art collection. For WWII history buffs, there’s the Musée Blockhaus Hôpital – a restored, German hospital bunker from 1943. Seashell collectors will lose their mind in the fabulous Musée du Coquillage. Plus, attend concerts and all-manner of events & happenings in season. This is a French, seaside town so, of course, there’s a casino; place your bets at the Casino des Atlantes or the Casino JOA Les Pins.

- Get Some Exercise: In addition to beachcombing, hiking and biking are popular activities here along with all the usual offerings: golf, tennis, swimming, etc.
- Fun for the Kids: There’s a zoo and an aquarium and a million other great activities for children.

Experience The Best: Sailing, Seafood & Salt
- Sail Away: Whether a novice or an experienced sailor, Les Sables’s Port Olona marina is the spot for you. The Sports Nautiques Sablais offers sailing for every level and at the Institut Sports Océan indulge in any number of nautical activities--sailing, surfing, windsurfing, kayaking, etc. 

(photo: Vendée Globe)

Vendée Globe: This is of special interest to sailing enthusiasts. The Vendée Globe is a prestigious, solo, unassisted, around-the-world, non-stop yacht race for the top sailors in the world. It takes place every four years (the 11th edition will be in 2028). The race starts & finishes in Les Sables-d'Olonne. There are usually around 40 international, world-class competitors. Start planning if you'd like to attend the next one as spectator or sailor! Get a ring-side seat in the Vendée Globe Village, this special area is set up on the Port Olona esplanade. There are also several “Hospitality Package” offerings.

- Feast On Sensational Seafood: Les Sables-d'Olonne’s Port de Pêche is one of France’s main fishing ports with catch such as sole, sea bass, hake, cuttlefish, tuna fish, crustaceans…and, a Vendéen specialty: sardines. This tasty, fresh-from-the-ocean seafood can be enjoyed at restaurants throughout town.
- Learn About “White Gold”: The Salt Of The Sea: In medieval times, Olonne salt was highly-prized and it’s still considered “white gold.” Today, you can visit the salt marshes--which look like a beautiful, tranquil nature sanctuary—on your own or on a tour (in French only). Salt forms when sea water, brought into the marsh basins, evaporates due to the sun & wind. Fine salt (fleur de sel) crystallizes on the surface of the basins and coarse salt on the bottom. By springtime, the salt is ready to be harvested and you can watch a demonstration.

Dine In Style: At these restaurants, the fish is so fresh it’s as if it leapt from the ocean onto your plate:

(photo: StudioBCarre)

Le Poisson Rouge (20 Quai Guiné) – Delicious dining.
Restaurant Le Port (24 Quai George V) – The freshest seafood & friendliest service.
La Suite SVP (20 Bd Roosevelt) - Nouvelle cuisine by chef Mélanie Sire.
La Pendule (67 Promenade Georges Clemenceau) – Crêperie right on Le Remblai.
Where To Stay: There is every kind of accommodation: hotels, bed & breakfasts, vacation rentals, etc. Hotel Coeur Marin (8 Bd Franklin Roosevelt) – A pleasant, conveniently-located option with a friendly staff.
Getting There: By train: TGV, Paris - Les Sables d'Olonne (about 3½ hrs).
By plane: Nantes-Atlantique airport or La Rochelle/Ile de Ré airport (1½ hrs).