10+ Artsy & Cool Reasons To Visit Marseille, France

By Jacquelin Carnegie 

Marseille Vieux Port (photo: Nigel Young)

Fort St Jean (photo: JCarnegie)

Marseille is one of the oldest cities in France with a fascinating history. As a port town, it's a melting pot for people from all over the world. However, it had gotten a bit rundown. But, when Marseille was named the European Capital of Culture, the town was spruced up nicely. Many neighborhood renovation projects were undertaken, several new hotels opened, and MuCEM, a beautiful new museum, was constructed. The buzzword for the new, improved Marseille is: "Euro-Mediterranean capital." And, with its mild climate, it's definitely worth visiting any time of year.

 
DISCOVER FASCINATING NEIGHBORHOODS
Each of Marseille's many neighborhoods has its unique charm. Discover the city on your own or take inexpensive guided tours offered by Marseille's tourism office (most are in French--good practice--but a few are in English as well). Be sure to check out these areas:
Vieux Port (The Old Port): The beautiful Vieux Port is the heart of the city, surrounded by cafes and restaurants serving traditional Marseille specialties and freshly-caught fish. Take a stroll along the pedestrian walkways and marvel at all the sailboats anchored in the harbor. 

Le Panier (The Old Town): Wander through the steep, winding, narrow streets of the oldest part of town and soak up the atmosphere.

Le Panier

L’Estaque: Famous painters such as Cézanne, Dufy, and Braque once lived in this neighborhood; trace their steps on a walking tour. 

La Corniche: Stop at seafood joints and soak up the sun as you stroll or drive along this picturesque, seaside roadway that meanders along Marseille's Mediterranean coast.

TRY UNIQUE ACTIVITIES
Check out some interesting, specific-to-the-region offerings such as a Local Foods Tasting Tour or 
Tour the Cité Radieuse (280 Blvd Michelet): This extraordinary apartment building, designed by renowned architect Le Corbusier, exemplifies his "Unité d'Habitation" concepts. (It includes a hotel* and an art center.)

Cite Radieuse

ENJOY GREAT EATS

Take advantage of all the fresh seafood dishes in Marseille's many restaurants:
Bouillabaisse: Le Miramar (12 Quai du Port; Tel: +33(0)4 91 91 41 09; lemiramar.fr) - When you think of Marseille, Bouillabaisse (fish stew) immediately comes to mind. To be authentic, the stew must contain five types of fish; learn how it's done. One portion is huge; big enough for two--plate of soup served first, followed by the fish stew. 

Fresh Fish: If you can wake up early enough, check out the daily fish market on the Vieux Port's Quai des Belges. If not, enjoy lunch at La Boîte à Sardine (2 Blvd de la Libération; Tel: +33 (0)4 91 50 95 95; www.laboiteasardine.com) - The daily catch of superb fresh fish is oven-cooked, grilled or pan fried and served by a very friendly staff.

VISIT MARVELOUS MUSEUMS
No matter what your interest--archaeology, motorcycles, fine art or contemporary painting--Marseille has over 20 museums showcasing art and antiquities from all periods of history. Here are two not-to-be-missed:

MuCEM (photo: JCarnegie)

Musée des Civilisations d'Europe et Méditerranée (MuCEM)
1 Esplanade du J4; www.mucem.org/en
This stunning new museum, designed by Rudy Ricciotti, is set right on Marseille’s harbor, so the panoramic views from the huge windows and terraces are as striking as the modern interiors. Devoted to showcasing Mediterranean culture, it's the first national museum outside of Paris. In addition to MuCEM's fascinating exhibits, an aerial walkway links the museum to Fort Saint Jean, now an exhibition space with a Mediterranean garden.
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Marseille
Palais Longchamp, Blvd de Montricher
The fine art museum is housed in the lovely Second Empire-style Palais Longchamp. French and Italian 16th- through 19th-century works are on display along with superb Provençal paintings.

 
ENJOY FABULOUS MUSIC FESTIVALS
Music-lovers rejoice; there are many festivals throughout the year:

Opera Marseille

March - Mars en Baroque; June - Marsatac (Electronic music); July - Festival Jazz des 5 Continents; Sept - Marseille's Opera season begins; Oct - Fiesta des Suds (World music); and the Festival de Marseille (dance & theater) in June & July.

TAKE DAZZLING DAY TRIPS
Les Calanques: Go on a boat ride to see Les Calanques, coves surrounded by steep hillsides, and visit the islands in the bay. Provence: Marseille is a great base for visiting such towns as Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, and Arles. These are easy day trips by train from the Gare Saint-Charles.
Making Your Trip Easier:
Marseille City Pass - Gives you free rides on Marseille's public transports (bus, metro, train, trams), along with entrance to museums & attractions, and a selection of free sightseeing tours.

Les Calanques

Where To Stay:
There are any number of great places to stay, but being able to look out at the Vieux Port is a real treat:
Radisson Blu Hotel Vieux Port (38-40 Quai de Rive Neuve; Tel: + 33(0)4 88 92 19 50) - Right on the Vieux Port with a wonderfully-helpful, friendly staff.
Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port (36, Blvd Charles Livon; Tel: +33(0)4 91 15 59 00) - A lovely spot at the end of the Vieux Port with terrific views.
Newhotel of Marseille (71, Blvd Charles Livon; Tel: +33(0)4 91 315 315) - An artsy, very modern, hip hotel right by the Vieux Port.
*Hotel Le Corbusier (280 Blvd Michelet; Tel: +33 (0)4 91 16 78 00) - Enjoy a truly, unique experience by staying on the hotel floor of Le Corbusier's Cité Radieuse.
Getting there: Most flights to Marseille from the US are connecting flights. But, here's some good news: Starting in June 2027, United will fly there non-stop from NY/Newark! Another option: Paris is just 3 hours away on the TGV fast train. A French rail pass from Rail Europe is very useful, including for day trips to other towns in Provence.

Budapest: Enjoy Coffee & Cake at 5 Famous Cafés

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (Budapest, Hungary)

Café Centrál

Long before “café culture” flourished in Paris and Vienna, it thrived in Budapest. The custom of drinking coffee was introduced by invading Ottoman Turks in the 1500s. During Budapest’s Golden Age, between 1870 and 1910, there were some 500 coffee houses in the city.

In their heyday, Budapest’s cafés were hangouts for aspiring writers, poets, artists, and the local intelligentsia. Before the age of television and the Internet, people spent hours in their favorite café, sharing ideas, gossip, and reading the newspapers, provided for free.

New York Café

These Budapest coffee houses had sumptuous interiors with lustrous chandeliers and frescoed ceilings to rival the Sistine Chapel. But, after two world wars and the communist era in Hungary, the old famous cafes had been destroyed or closed. In recent years, many of these once-grand cafés have been restored to their original splendor:

New York Café

New York Café

New York Palace Hotel, Erzsébet körút 9-11; Tel: 01/886-6167; www.newyorkcafe.hu; Metro: M2 – Astoria; Open: 8am-midnight

Opened in 1894 on the ground floor of a stylish office complex, designed by architect Alajos Hauszmann and financed by a New York life insurance company (hence the name), the café was a favorite haunt of the writers and editors who worked in the building (now a five-star hotel). For struggling writers, the New York provided free ink and paper and offered a low-cost "writer's menu" (bread, cheese & cold cuts). During Budapest’s Golden Age, much of the city’s creative business took place here or at the Café Central.

Café Centrál

Károlyi Mihály utca 9; Tel: 01/266-2110; www.centralkavehaz.hu; Metro: M3 - Ferenciek Tere; Open: 9am-10pm or midnight

 Café Centrál

Opened in 1887, the Central was a popular meeting place for writers, poets, editors, and artists. In the 1890s, writers sitting around the café began an influential literary periodical, A Hét (Week). A few years later, another group of regulars, who divided their time between the Central and the New York, launched Nyugat (West), which became one of the most influential Hungarian literary journals in the early 20th century.

Café Gerbeaud

Vörösmarty tér 7; Tel: 01/429-9000; www.gerbeaud.hu; Metro: M1 – Vörösmarty tér; Open: 9am-9pm

Café Gerbeaud

Founded by confectioner Henrik Kugler in 1858, this is regarded as one of the most elegant and refined cafés. In 1884, its Swiss pastry chef, Emile Gerbeaud, took over the establishment, making it as famous for its cakes as its coffee.

Művész Kávéház

Andrássy út 29; Tel: 70/333-2116; www.muveszkavehaz.com; Metro: M1- Opera; Open: 9am-8pm

Around since 1898, Művész means artist and since the café is located opposite the Budapest State Opera House, over the years, it’s attracted its fair share of artists and performers.

Café Gerlóczy

Café Gerlóczy

Gerloczy u. 1; Tel: 01/501-4000; www.gerloczy.com; Metro: M1, M2, M3 – Deák Farenc tér; Open: 7am-11pm

On a leafy square, in a pretty 1892 building, the Gerlóczy has the feel of a Parisian café with its wonderful croissants and freshly-baked pastries—some consider it the best breakfast in town. Lunch & dinner offerings aren't bad either. Sometimes there's even musicians playing, adding to the atmosphere. Another unique, Gerlóczy offering: stylish rooms in its upstairs boutique hotel, so you never have to leave!

Stay at the Café Gerlóczy

Getting There: 

The best time to visit Budapest is between March and October. Most major airlines offer connecting flights.

Read Before You Go: "The Great Escape” by Kati Marton: This wonderful book, about influential Hungarians, describes life in the Budapest cafés at the turn of the 20th century.

Paris: Discover 20 Secret Passages

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (Paris, France)

Passage du Grand Cerf (photo: MOSSOT/Wiki Commons)

During the 1800s in Paris, around 100 Passages Couverts--stunning, glass-covered passageways--were constructed to shield well-healed shoppers from the elements. Now, only about 20 remain. Some still house high-end stores, others are more lowbrow, shopping arcades.

Referred to as Passages or Galeries, many have been restored to their former glory with dazzling skylights and mosaic-tiled floors while others are a bit on the shabby side. Regardless, as you wander through, browsing the shops or having a coffee in one of the many bistros, remember you’re following in the footsteps of Balzac and Zola--shopping the way Parisians have done for centuries.

  

Explore the Passages Couverts

Here’s a selection worth exploring. Just keep your eyes peeled, some Passage entryways are so inconspicuous you’ll walk right by them.

Galerie Véro-Dodat (photo: Gabrielle Robillard/WikiCommons)

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Enter: 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, or 2 rue du Bouloi; 1^st arrondissement; Metro: Louvre Rivoli

In 1826, two butchers with excellent taste, Véro and Dodat, built this elegant passageway. It’s neo-classical style with black-and-white, checkered marble flooring, stylish white-globe lamps, painted ceilings, and the original wooden shop fronts is a classy setting for art galleries and antique shops selling everything from vintage musical instruments to collectible toys and dolls.

Galerie Vivienne (photo: Mbzt/WikiCommons)

Galerie Vivienne

www.galerie-vivienne.com

Enter: 4 rue des Petits Champs, or 6 rue Vivienne, or 5 rue de la Banque; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Bourse or Pyramides

Lined with high-fashion boutiques, antiques shops and old bookstores, this passageway is thought to be the most beautiful with a stunning mosaic floor, tall-glass arched store fronts, and potted trees. Built in 1823, it converges with the Galerie Colbert.

Galerie Colbert (photo: Tangopaso/Wiki Commons)

Galerie Colbert

Enter at: 6 rue des Petits-Champs, or 6 rue Vivienne; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Bourse or Pyramides

Restored by the Bibliothèque Nationale (National Library), this stately passage, built in 1826, leads to a magnificent, glass-covered rotunda. Stand and ponder the bronze statue at its center by Charles-François Leboeuf—Eurydice, Orpheus’ beloved and doomed wife.

Passage du Grand-Cerf

https://bit.ly/2JIrkkA

Enter: 145 rue Saint-Denis, or 10 rue Dussoubs; 2^nd arrondissement; 

Metro: Etienne Marcel
Built in 1835, this impressive interior is three-stories high. The skylights are framed by wrought-iron work and the wood-paneled shop fronts house boutiques for fashion designers, artisans and decorators.

Passage du Grand-Cerf (photo: Ralf.treinen/Wiki Commons)

Passage des Panoramas

Enter: 11 Boulevard Montmartre, or 10 rue Saint-Marc; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Grands Boulevards

  Passage des Panoramas (photo: MarkusMark/Wiki Commons)

Built in 1799 and still bustling with activity, this is the oldest covered passage in Paris and the first public place lit by gaslight in 1817. Amid the stamp collectors, antique postcard boutiques, and restaurants, there are new trendy shops and establishments that have stood the test of time such as the Théâtre des Variétés opened in 1807. This passage links to several others: Galerie des Variétés, Galerie Feydeau, Galerie Montmartre & Galerie Saint Marc.

Passage Jouffroy

Passage Jouffroy (photo: MarkusMark/Wiki Commons)

Enter: 10-12 Boulevard Montmartre, or 9 rue de la Grange-Batelière; 2^nd/9^th arrondissement; Metro: Grands Boulevards

Directly across from the Passage des Panoramas, Passage Jouffroy, built in 1847, has lots of shops selling collectible movie posters, vintage postcards, antique toys, old books, and interesting curios. There’s even a quirky wax museum opened since 1882, Musée Grévin, and a hotel with budget rooms, Hôtel Chopin.

Passage Verdeau (photo: Davitof/Wiki Commons)

Passage Verdeau

Enter: 31bis rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, or 6 rue de la Grange-Batelière; 9^th arrondissement; Metro: Le Peletier

The Passage Jouffroy leads to the Passage Verdeau, built in 1847. This passage is only a block long and has a mix of old-fashioned shops selling vintage photographs and prints, stamps, old books and postcards.

Tour the Passages Couverts

To learn more about the history, here are some touring options:

Association Passages et Galeries

Tel: 01/44-71-02-48; www.passagesetgaleries.org

Maps for 3 self-guided walks are on the Association's website. Under “Découverte Des Passages,” click “Les itinéraires.” For exact addresses and opening hours (some are closed “fermé” at night and on Sundays), click on “Informations pratiques.” The Association offers a guided tour of the passageways for groups on request (in several languages).

Try these tours, if you speak French or want some practice (private tours in English but at a much higher price):

Passages Couverts

Cultival

Tel: 01/ 73-03-60-03; www.cultival.fr

“The Covered Passages of Paris”: An hour and a half tour of several passages: Galerie Véro-Dodat, Galerie Vivienne, Galerie Colbert, Passage des Panoramas (in French).

Visites Spectacles

Tel: 01/48-58-37-12; www.visites-spectacles.com

“L’Intrigue des Passages Couverts”: A fun option is to experience a “murder mystery” from the 1870s acted out in the passages: Passage des Panoramas, Passage Jouffroy, Passage Verdeau (in French).

EXPLORE MORE: 101 ARTSY & COOL THINGS TO DO IN PARIS (Get my Paris guide on Amazon or Apple!)

5 Free Fabulous Summertime Things To Do in New York City

By Jacquelin Carnegie

In the summertime, many cities around the world empty out and all cultural activities come to a halt. But, during the dog days of summer, New York lives up to its reputation as "The City That Never Sleeps." Cool cultural and fun events never stop! Here's a sampling of not-to-be-missed happenings: 

DANCE MOVES WITH A VIEW
Battery Dance Festival
Battery Park City - Rockefeller Park batterydance.org (Aug) 

Battery Dance Fest, Trainor Dance (photo: Steven Pisano)

Every August, this festival gives dance lovers a reason to rejoice. Wonderful international dance companies are showcased in the most beautiful setting in New York City! But, even if you know nothing about dance, it's worth checking out this festival as each night a selection of five dance troupes performs giving you the chance to discover that you're really a dance fan after all. Plus, the Statue of Liberty is in the background!

THE MUSIC PLAYS ON

Summer Concert 
(photo: Cory Weaver/Metropolitan Opera)

All throughout the summer there are wonderful, free outdoor concerts featuring all kinds of music, but these last until Fall: 

SummerStage 

(www.summerstage.org; June thru Oct) This music fest has expanded beyond Rumsey Playfield in Central Park to 18 parks in all five boroughs. You'll hear cutting-edge music--everything from Indie to Afrobeat, Latin to Soul, Reggae to Fado, etc.--plus you'll see contemporary dance. All performances are free, except for benefit concerts. For jazz fans, there's the Charlie Parker Jazz Festival (Aug). 

(photo: Courtesy Bryant Park)

Bryant Park – Picnic Performances (https://tinyurl.com/3vafee34; June-Sept) – In this beautiful setting—the lawn behind the stunning main NY Public Library—you can enjoy fab, free performances of jazz, classical music, opera, pop as well as dance & theater. Bring your own picnic or garb some tasty goodies at the food tents. Bryant Park will even provide the picnic blanket!

THEATER AL FRESCO

Hudson Classical’s Shakespeare in Riverside Park

                  In the summertime in New York City, Shakespeare is king! The best-known offering is The Public Theater's Shakespeare in the Park (July thru Aug) at the Delacorte Theater in Central Park (just renovated!) Also, enjoy fun, fab performances throughout the 5 boroughs by the Mobile Unit. There are also some lesser-known productions such as Shakespeare in the Parking Lot, Shakespeare in Riverside Park & Shakespeare Downtown.

CINEMA SOIRÉES
Have a drive-in experience without a car! Check out all the lovely outdoor locations to watch movies under the stars in the middle of the city such as Rooftop Films and enjoy free Friday night fireworks on Coney Island!

THE GREAT OUTDOORS IN THE CITY
Governors Island
New York Harbor, www.govisland.com
Open: Daily, year-round; Ferry fee, but free on the weekends before noon.

Governors Island (photo: JCarnegie)

This glorious getaway, just 5 minutes from Manhattan Island by ferry, was for many years a base for the US Army and Coast Guard. But, the Island has been transformed into an artsy recreational area with lots of interesting events. One of the wonderful ways to get away while staying right in the city. (Here are some other great options to stay cool while sightseeing:

https://tinyurl.com/bder2dnp)