Explore France’s Normandy Coastline, Côte d'Albâtre: Part ll: FÉCAMP: 5 Great Reasons To Visit

Fécamp (photo: Thomas Le Floc'H)

By Jacquelin Carnegie

There are so many reasons to explore France’s Normandy coastline: The Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster coast) is a stretch of chalk cliffs, like England’s white cliffs of Dover across The Channel, with several worthwhile stops along the way.
Fécamp is a charming place to vacation; a lovely, relaxing spot with lots of interesting sites because…it was once a coastal base for the Dukes of Normandy in the 11th century and the locale of an important Benedictine Abbey during the early Middle Ages. Also, over the centuries, Fécamp became France’s top cod fishing port and today you can enjoy a meal of freshly-caught fish at the Marché aux Poissons as well as in almost every restaurant in town!

THREE MUST-SEE SITES
Les Pêcheries - Musée de Fécamp
3 Quai Capitaine Jean Recher; www.musee-fecamp.fr (Open daily, Fee)

Crinolines sur la plage, Fécamp, Jules Achille Noel, 1871; Les Pêcheries

Housed in a former 1950’s cod-drying factory, Les Pêcheries is actually several museums combined into one, all related to the history of Fécamp: First, the museum presents a comprehensive idea of the local way of life over the centuries. Next, it details the history of cod and herring fishing, the most important commercial activity in the area since ancient times. (The Fécamp fishermen ventured as far north as the Canadian coast of Newfoundland to catch cod.) Then, there’s a collection of fine art paintings reflecting the sights, history and events pertinent to the area. Plus, a fascinating exhibit devoted to a local doctor, Dr. Léon Dufour, whose innovations in the 19th century saved the lives of infants worldwide. Last-but-not-least, on the top floor, there’s a 360° view of the surroundings: town, sea, and cliffs.

Palais Bénédictine
110 rue Alexandre Le Grand; www.benedictinedom.com (Open daily, Guided tour, Fee)

Palais Bénédictine

Even if you don’t drink or have any interest in liqueur, this is a must-visit. The Benedictine Palace is an architectural delight of neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance inspiration, built at the end of the 19th century with finely-decorated rooms, stunning stained-glass windows, and carved-wood walls.
Legend has it that in the Middle Ages a Benedictine monk came up with the recipe for a digestive based on 27 medicinal herbs and spices. The recipe was lost over time and only rediscovered in 1863 by a wine merchant from Fécamp, Alexander Le Grand. Monsieur Le Grant made Benedictine liqueur into a worldwide brand and built this amazing “palace” to house the only Benedictine distillery in the world as well as his eclectic collection of objects d’art. At the end of the tour, you also get to taste this unique liqueur.

Abbatiale de la Sainte Trinité - Abbey of the Holy Trinity of Fécamp
10 rue des Forts (Open daily; April-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-March, 9am-12pm/2-5pm; Free to visit; Guided tour in French, Fee)

Fécamp Abbey

From the 11th century onwards, Benedictine monks settled here at the invitation of the Dukes of Normandy as it had been a holy site for centuries and one of the first pilgrimage locations in Normandy. The Fécamp Abbey is an impressive Gothic structure (127 meters/417 feet long), almost the same length as the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris (128 meters/420 feet) with interior adornments of interest from several centuries, such as: the Tabernacle of the Precious Blood, the 15th-century sculpture of the Dormition of the Virgin, and the magnificent 17th-century, Astronomical clock displaying: time, moon phases, and the tides.

OTHER ACTIVITIES TO ENJOY
The Great Outdoors: There’s every kind of enjoyable, outdoor activity imaginable in this bucolic spot: hiking, biking, horseback-riding, sailing and, of course, just relaxing on the beach. Plus, several interesting Guided Tours (Tours in French; in English only for groups in case you’re traveling with many friends &/or your whole family in tow). Check with the tourism office for all the options: Fécamp Tourisme (Quai Sadi Carnot, Tel: +33 2 35 28 51 01) 

On the Beach, Fecamp, Berthe Morisot, 1873

Marché aux Poissons 

(2 rue du Commandant Riondel; Seasonal Opening hours: Fri & Sat, 9am-12:30pm/3pm-7pm; Tues-Thurs, 9am-12:30pm)
- Enjoy a freshly-caught, seafood meal at the Marché aux Poissons (fish market). Depending on the time of year, the best catch might be: cod, sole, bream, smoked & salt-cured herring (Oct-Jan), scallops (Oct-May), mackerel (summer), mussels, oysters, whelks & clams.

A LOVELY DAY TRIP
ÉTRETAT: This lovely, little village--known for its falaises, steep cliffs facing the sea, and rock arches (Aval, Amont & Manneporte)--has appealed to artistic types for centuries, such as writers (Guy de Maupassant, Victor Hugo, Gustave Flaubert, etc.) and painters (Claude Monet, Gustave Courbet, Eugène Boudin, etc.). Today, it’s just as inviting. Enjoy the landscape & these two worthwhile sites:
Les Jardins d'Étretat (Ave Damilaville; https://etretatgarden.fr; Closed: Dec-Feb; Fee) - Landscape architect Alexander Grivko transformed the grounds of a Belle Epoque villa into a magnificent, cliffside, topiary garden that features knock-out, contemporary art. Twice awarded the prestigious “Remarkable Garden” label by the French Ministry of Culture.

Les Jardins d’Étretat (photo: Yann Monel)

Clos Lupin – Maison Maurice Leblanc 

(15 rue Guy de Maupassant; Tel: +33 2 35 10 59 53; Fee) – Visit if you’re a fan of Leblanc’s books about the gentleman burglar, Arsène Lupin.
Dine: Restaurant du Perrey (3 rue Général Leclerc) – After sightseeing, enjoy a delicious meal with a spectacular view right on the waterfront. 
Getting to Étretat: From Fécamp or Le Havre by bus (autocar), Ligne 509. 
Or, from Fécamp, take a 2-hour speed boat excursion, La Mer pour Tous, or a 4-hour mini-cruise on a sail boat.

Making Your Trip to Fécamp Easier:
Where To Dine: Many good restaurants in town to choose from, plus the Marché aux Poissons.
Where To Stay: Absolutely all kinds of nice accommodations.
Hôtel Le Grand Pavois (15 Quai de la Vicomte; https://www.hotel-grand-pavois.com/en) - Nice, modern hotel in a great location, right on the harbor.
Getting around: In-town the Fici Bus. Fécamp Brochures & Maps (in French & English).

Fécamp harbor

Getting There: The Normandy region has its own train lines NOMAD; Paris - Gare Saint Lazare, change at Bréauté–Beuzeville for Fécamp (about 2 1/2hrs) 
Bus: FLIXBUS – Paris direct to Fécamp (around 3hrs)
Nearby Jaunts: Visit other lovely towns along the Côte d'Albâtre. Normandy also has its own bus lines (NOMAD autocar): Ligne 509 connects Fécamp - Etretat - Le Havre. From Fécamp to Dieppe (Ligne 513 to St Valéry en Caux, then 514 to Dieppe).

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Going Green: The Normandy region encourages “green” travel with some unique offers: Le Tarif bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Rate) – Get 10% off at various attractions by showing your train or bus ticket, or a photo of your bike! Sejours bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Visits) – Suggestions of places to visit that are easy to get to (& get around) without a car. If you really want to drive, rent an electric car! Explore Normandy Pass – Discounts throughout the region.

Parc Éolien - France’s first Offshore Wind Farm in Normandy, is off the coast of Fécamp; you can see it on a boat tour.

Claude Monet - 2026 marks the 100th anniversary of his death; there’ll be lots of special exhibits in Normandy.