By Jacquelin Carnegie –
(Paris, France)
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| Sacré-Cœur, La Fête des Vendanges |
Imagine what it was like
to hang out in Montmartre back in the late 19th & early 20th
century when this hill in the 18th arrondissement was a bohemian enclave of artists, writers, and poets. Today, Montmartre’s
become a tourist attraction, but the vestiges of its artsy past still remain
and are definitely worth exploring. To experience the authentic charm of this
neighborhood, sightsee early in the morning and late at night and wander down
the lovely side streets to chat with the locals.
MONTMARTRE’S MOST INTRIGUING SIGHTS
MONTMARTRE’S MOST INTRIGUING SIGHTS
Le Bateau-Lavoir
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| (photo: cinazza) |
Although the building,
rebuilt after a fire, isn’t open to the public, check out the commemorative
window because a number of the most influential artists and writers of the 20th
century once lived here. From 1904 to 1912, Pablo Picasso had a studio where he
painted Les Demoiselles d’Avingnon,
ushering in cubism. Artists Modigliani and Gris also lived here as did poets
Max Jacob and André Salmon.
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| (photo: JCarnegie) |
Le Passe-Muraille
Place Marcel Aymé, at rue Norvins & rue Girardon; Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt
This intriguing sculpture is
based on a short story character, Monsieur Dutilleul, who was able to walk
through walls (Le Passe-Muraille,
1943). Famous French actor Jean Marais made the bronze sculpture to honor the
author, Marcel Aymé, who lived in Montmartre.
Le Mur des “Je t’aime” (“I love You” Wall)
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| (photo: Moxieg) |
This unique art
installation looks like a blackboard covered with scribbles, but it’s actually
a wall of glazed tiles with “I Love You” written in 250 languages to inspire
peace and love.
THE BEST ENTERTAINMENT IN MONTMARTRE
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| (photo: auselen) |
22 rue des Saules; Tel: 01/46-06-85-87; www.au-lapin-agile.com; Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt
Open: Tues, Thurs, Fri & Sat, 9pm-1am; Cost: 35€ per person, includes one drink
An evening at the Lapin
Agile is kitsch, it’s cool, it’s not to be missed. Opened in 1860, artists and writers such as
Picasso, Utrillo, Modigliani, and
Apollinaire used to
hang out here. Today, the renowned
singer Yves Mathieu (now in his 90s) and his handsome sons, Frédéric &
Vincent, keep the art
of French chanson alive. You can’t go
back in time but, each night, a talented group of musicians and singers brings
the past to life.
1 avenue Junot; Tel: 01/42-54-15-12; theatrelepic.com; Metro: AbbessesThis little theater was renovated by famed film director Claude Lelouch for use in one of his movies, then run by his daughter Salomé. It has become a neighborhood venue for innovative theater, concerts and family entertainment. Catch a show and feel like a local.
MONTMARTRE’S MUST-SEE MUSEUM & GALLERIES
MONTMARTRE’S MUST-SEE MUSEUM & GALLERIES
Musée de Montmartre
12 rue Cortot
www.museedemontmartre.fr Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt; Open: Daily, 10am-7pm; Fee.
Before the historic Manoir
de Rosimond became a museum highlighting Montmartre’s fascinating past, it was
home to some incredible artists such as Renoir, Utrillo,
and Raoul Dufy. Enjoy
the exhibits, then contemplate the past in the lovely, courtyard garden where
Renoir once sat and painted. You can even have a snack at the Café Renoir.
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André
Renoux, Galerie André Roussard |
It's amazing how many admired painters have had studios in Montmartre
including some of the most famous such as Braque, Degas, Modigliani, and
Utrillo. Today, a new generation of
talented artists such as Gen
Paul, André Renoux, Jean-Charles Decoudun, and Robert
Delval, keep the tradition alive.
Galerie AVM
42 rue Caulaincourt; Tel: 01/42-54-09-09; galerieavm.comMetro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt Open:Wed-Sun, 1pm-7pm
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| Paule Honoré, Galerie AVM |
This delightful little gallery exhibits contemporary art: paintings, sculpture, prints, and objects d’art. It’s on Caulaincourt, a beautiful street in a less
touristy section of Montmartre, worth exploring.
Halle Saint Pierre
2 rue Ronsard; Tel: 01/42-58-72-89; www.hallesaintpierre.org; Metro: Anvers; Open: Daily, 11am-6pm; Fee.
Built in 1868, the Halle Saint Pierre, located at the base of Montmartre, was once a market. Today, it’s a lovely cultural center with a cute café, a folk art collection, and space for temporary exhibits.
DISCOVER MONTMARTRE’S FASCINATING PAST
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Place du Tertre (photo: David Monniaux)
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Walking The Spirit Tours
Tel: 519/497-0933; www.walkthespirit.com; Duration: 2+ hrs; Fee per personIn the 1920s, jazz musicians and entertainers from the “Harlem Renaissance”--Josephine Baker, Sidney Bechet, Ada “Bricktop” Smith, and writers Langston Hughes and Countee Cullen--came to Paris and gravitated to lower Montmartre. On The Entertainers tour, learn all about this jazz scene in Montmartre and see where the famous clubs such as Chez Bricktop, Le Grand Duc and Chez Josephine used to be.
Montmartre’s vineyards
date from 390 B.C. Every year, during the month of October, Montmartre’s Wine Harvest Festival is
celebrated throughout the neighborhood with a parade, wine-tasting booths, food
stalls, music, dancing in the streets, and fireworks. It’s a fun time to plan a
trip to Paris.
La Commanderie du Clos-Montmartre
Btw rue des Saules & rue Saint-Vincent; Tel: 01/44-92-35-34; Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt
The current vineyard was re-planted in 1929. The Clos Montmartre can be visited during La
Fête des Vendanges or through
special arrangement with La
Commanderie (call first).
NICE PLACES TO GRAB A SNACK IN MONTMARTRE
GETTING THERE:
Walk: Several different sets of steep steps; Metro: Abbesses or Lamarck–Caulaincourt; Montmartrobus: Place Pigalle to Jules Joffrin (look for Sacré-Coeur symbol on the bus and bus stops); Funicular: Rue Tardieu (at the base) to Rue Saint Eleuthère (at the top);
IT’S PARTY TIME IN MONTMARTRE
La Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre
www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com
www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com
Montmartre’s vineyards
date from 390 B.C. Every year, during the month of October, Montmartre’s Wine Harvest Festival is
celebrated throughout the neighborhood with a parade, wine-tasting booths, food
stalls, music, dancing in the streets, and fireworks. It’s a fun time to plan a
trip to Paris.La Commanderie du Clos-Montmartre
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| (photo: Son of Groucho) |
NICE PLACES TO GRAB A SNACK IN MONTMARTRE
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Jean-Charles Decoudun, Galerie André Roussard
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Au Relais (48 rue Lamarck; https://aurelai.fr/en) - A typical French
bistro. Les Petits Mitrons (26 rue Lepic;
https://bit.ly/2MDY5lH) - A local bakery known for quiches & fruit
tarts.
WHERE TO STAY:
Airbnb:
Really get a feel for Montmartre by renting a room or an apartment in the
neighborhood.
Hotel des Arts (5 Rue Tholozé; Tel: 01/46-06-30-52; www.arts-hotel-paris.com) - a
little, low-key hotel that pays homage to Montmartre’s artsy past.
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| (photo: Maggie D’Urbano) |
Walk: Several different sets of steep steps; Metro: Abbesses or Lamarck–Caulaincourt; Montmartrobus: Place Pigalle to Jules Joffrin (look for Sacré-Coeur symbol on the bus and bus stops); Funicular: Rue Tardieu (at the base) to Rue Saint Eleuthère (at the top);
Le Petit Train de Montmartre: at Place Blanche, hop on a little
tourist choo-choo.
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