Paris: Discover 20 Secret Passages

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (Paris, France)

Passage du Grand Cerf (photo: MOSSOT/Wiki Commons)

During the 1800s in Paris, around 100 Passages Couverts--stunning, glass-covered passageways--were constructed to shield well-healed shoppers from the elements. Now, only about 20 remain. Some still house high-end stores, others are more lowbrow, shopping arcades.

Referred to as Passages or Galeries, many have been restored to their former glory with dazzling skylights and mosaic-tiled floors while others are a bit on the shabby side. Regardless, as you wander through, browsing the shops or having a coffee in one of the many bistros, remember you’re following in the footsteps of Balzac and Zola--shopping the way Parisians have done for centuries.

  

Explore the Passages Couverts

Here’s a selection worth exploring. Just keep your eyes peeled, some Passage entryways are so inconspicuous you’ll walk right by them.

Galerie Véro-Dodat (photo: Gabrielle Robillard/WikiCommons)

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Enter: 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, or 2 rue du Bouloi; 1^st arrondissement; Metro: Louvre Rivoli

In 1826, two butchers with excellent taste, Véro and Dodat, built this elegant passageway. It’s neo-classical style with black-and-white, checkered marble flooring, stylish white-globe lamps, painted ceilings, and the original wooden shop fronts is a classy setting for art galleries and antique shops selling everything from vintage musical instruments to collectible toys and dolls.

Galerie Vivienne (photo: Mbzt/WikiCommons)

Galerie Vivienne

www.galerie-vivienne.com

Enter: 4 rue des Petits Champs, or 6 rue Vivienne, or 5 rue de la Banque; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Bourse or Pyramides

Lined with high-fashion boutiques, antiques shops and old bookstores, this passageway is thought to be the most beautiful with a stunning mosaic floor, tall-glass arched store fronts, and potted trees. Built in 1823, it converges with the Galerie Colbert.

Galerie Colbert (photo: Tangopaso/Wiki Commons)

Galerie Colbert

Enter at: 6 rue des Petits-Champs, or 6 rue Vivienne; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Bourse or Pyramides

Restored by the Bibliothèque Nationale (National Library), this stately passage, built in 1826, leads to a magnificent, glass-covered rotunda. Stand and ponder the bronze statue at its center by Charles-François Leboeuf—Eurydice, Orpheus’ beloved and doomed wife.

Passage du Grand-Cerf

https://bit.ly/2JIrkkA

Enter: 145 rue Saint-Denis, or 10 rue Dussoubs; 2^nd arrondissement; 

Metro: Etienne Marcel
Built in 1835, this impressive interior is three-stories high. The skylights are framed by wrought-iron work and the wood-paneled shop fronts house boutiques for fashion designers, artisans and decorators.

Passage du Grand-Cerf (photo: Ralf.treinen/Wiki Commons)

Passage des Panoramas

Enter: 11 Boulevard Montmartre, or 10 rue Saint-Marc; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Grands Boulevards

  Passage des Panoramas (photo: MarkusMark/Wiki Commons)

Built in 1799 and still bustling with activity, this is the oldest covered passage in Paris and the first public place lit by gaslight in 1817. Amid the stamp collectors, antique postcard boutiques, and restaurants, there are new trendy shops and establishments that have stood the test of time such as the Théâtre des Variétés opened in 1807. This passage links to several others: Galerie des Variétés, Galerie Feydeau, Galerie Montmartre & Galerie Saint Marc.

Passage Jouffroy

Passage Jouffroy (photo: MarkusMark/Wiki Commons)

Enter: 10-12 Boulevard Montmartre, or 9 rue de la Grange-Batelière; 2^nd/9^th arrondissement; Metro: Grands Boulevards

Directly across from the Passage des Panoramas, Passage Jouffroy, built in 1847, has lots of shops selling collectible movie posters, vintage postcards, antique toys, old books, and interesting curios. There’s even a quirky wax museum opened since 1882, Musée Grévin, and a hotel with budget rooms, Hôtel Chopin.

Passage Verdeau (photo: Davitof/Wiki Commons)

Passage Verdeau

Enter: 31bis rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, or 6 rue de la Grange-Batelière; 9^th arrondissement; Metro: Le Peletier

The Passage Jouffroy leads to the Passage Verdeau, built in 1847. This passage is only a block long and has a mix of old-fashioned shops selling vintage photographs and prints, stamps, old books and postcards.

Tour the Passages Couverts

To learn more about the history, here are some touring options:

Association Passages et Galeries

Tel: 01/44-71-02-48; www.passagesetgaleries.org

Maps for 3 self-guided walks are on the Association's website. Under “Découverte Des Passages,” click “Les itinéraires.” For exact addresses and opening hours (some are closed “fermé” at night and on Sundays), click on “Informations pratiques.” The Association offers a guided tour of the passageways for groups on request (in several languages).

Try these tours, if you speak French or want some practice (private tours in English but at a much higher price):

Passages Couverts

Cultival

Tel: 01/ 73-03-60-03; www.cultival.fr

“The Covered Passages of Paris”: An hour and a half tour of several passages: Galerie Véro-Dodat, Galerie Vivienne, Galerie Colbert, Passage des Panoramas (in French).

Visites Spectacles

Tel: 01/48-58-37-12; www.visites-spectacles.com

“L’Intrigue des Passages Couverts”: A fun option is to experience a “murder mystery” from the 1870s acted out in the passages: Passage des Panoramas, Passage Jouffroy, Passage Verdeau (in French).

EXPLORE MORE: 101 ARTSY & COOL THINGS TO DO IN PARIS (Get my Paris guide on Amazon or Apple!)

ART BEAT: Visit 5 FABULOUS ART FOUNDATIONS in New York City

The Brant Foundation, Basquiat exhibit (photo: Tom Powel imaging)

By Jacquelin Carnegie

The Brant Foundation

In New York City, there are many great ways to have culturally-inspiring experiences and lots of wonderful places to see incredible art. While you may be familiar with all the major museums, there are also several, really special art foundations you might not have heard about, where the spaces they’re housed in are often as interesting as the art: 
Downtown
The Brant Foundation
421 East 6th St, btw 1st Ave - Ave A; brantfoundation.org (Open: Wed-Sun; Fee or Free Admission depending on exhibit)

Successful businessman and philanthropist Peter Brant has many eclectic interests, but his main passion is contemporary art. He’s been an avid collector since his college days when his first acquisitions included two Andy Warhols and a Franz Kline! Lucky for us, Brant has put his impressive collection on display, first in Greenwich, Connecticut and now in a stunning new location in New York City. The building, a former ConEd substation, has been redesigned as an exhibit space which is as knockout as the artwork on display. [Enjoy a virtual tour of Brant’s extensive Jean-Michel Basquiat collection.] 

Judd Foundation
101 Spring St, www.juddfoundation.org; Tel: 212/219-2747 (Open: Tues-Sat; Admission Fee; Guided tours only, book in advance) 

Judd bedroom, Dan Flavin light sculpture
(photo: James Ewing; Courtesy Judd Foundation)

You don’t have to be a fan of Donald Judd’s artwork to appreciate a visit to his former home and studio in Manhattan's SoHo district. First, the beautifully-restored, 19th-century, cast-iron building is one of the few remaining in the neighborhood. Next, Judd designed and built many of the everyday items in the home such as dining tables, chairs, desks, etc. And, the space is filled with works by some of Judd’s favorite artists such as Dan Flavin and Frank Stella. Judd bought the building in 1968; a visit provides a fascinating glimpse into the life of a successful, modern artist.

Resnick-Passlof Foundation

The Milton Resnick & Pat Passlof Foundation
87 Eldridge St; resnickpasslof.org; Tel: 646/559-2513 (Open: Thurs-Sat, 11am-6pm; Free Admission; Closed in Aug.)

Milton Resnick and Pat Passlof were Abstract Expressionist painters who lived and worked on Manhattan’s Lower East Side in a building that was once a synagogue. Since their passing, the space has been renovated into a showplace for their signature paintings as well as for exhibits of work by other Abstract Expressionist artists. The Foundation also presents lectures, poetry readings, and musical programs in this magnificent space.

Chelsea
The FLAG Art Foundation
545 West 25th St, 9th Fl, btw 10th-11th Ave; http://flagartfoundation.org; Tel: 212/206-0220 (Open: Wed-Sat, 11am-5pm; Free Admission)

Nicolas Party: Pastel, 2021, FLAG 
(photo: Steven Probert)

Financier, philanthropist, collector, and art patron Glenn Fuhrman launched The FLAG Art Foundation as a non-profit, exhibit space to encourage the appreciation of contemporary art. The marvelous, imaginative exhibits are meant to attract a diverse audience. FLAG generally presents four to six exhibits a year of both established and emerging artists. The Foundation also invites a creative group of individuals—artists, athletes, writers, historians, fashion designers, museum directors--to guest curate these fab exhibits.

Hill Art Foundation
239 Tenth Ave, at 24th St, 3rd Fl, https://hillartfoundation.org
(Open: Tues-Sat, 11am-5pm; Free Admission)

Hill Art Foundation

For forty years, former financier J. Tomilson Hill and his wife have been passionate art collectors. The Hill Art Foundation is a lovely way for them to share their collection with the public: allowing visitors to see how they think about art as well as how they juxtapose and display pieces. While the Foundation reflects the Hills’ personal taste, it’s also about sharing—encouraging the viewer to reflect on and engage with the pieces to find new interpretations of the works on view. The galley space itself is stunning, on the 3rd & 4th floors of the Getty building designed by famed architect Peter Marino.

10+ Artsy & Cool Reasons to Visit Valencia, Spain

Centro Historico

By Jacquelin Carnegie 

Valencia is one of those "hidden gems" worth discovering on your next trip to Spain. Just a few hours south of Barcelona, Valencia is a charming small city with stunning architecture and friendly people on Spain's Mediterranean coast. In addition to all the city has to offer, it's situated in the region of Valencia (Comunitat Valenciana), which has everything from mountain retreats to popular beach resorts. The weather in the area is splendid spring, summer, and fall, so almost anytime is a good time to visit.
DISCOVER THE BEAUTY OF THE CITY: ARCHITECTURE & NEIGHBORHOODS
Spain's third largest city has a fascinating history. As a result, Valencia is a beautiful mélange of architectural marvels from Romanesque façades to castle-like Gothic structures, to ornate Baroque residences, and Modernist buildings from the city's expansion, beginning in the late 19th century.

Cathedral, Plaza de la Virgen

Walking & Bike Tours (Valencia Guias, Tel: +34 963 851 740; www.valenciaguias.com): One of the pure joys of being in Valencia is simply walking or, if you prefer, biking around and exploring all the neighborhoods. The experience is richer when accompanied by a knowledgeable guide. Marvel at all the wonderful examples of architectural styles within the  Centro Histórico (Historic Center), including the Ciutat Vella (Old Town), and El Carmen area, formally rundown but now flourishing with restaurants, clubs, and nightlife. When the walls surrounding Valencia’s old town were demolished in 1865, a new neighborhood was created--admire the elegant, Modernist buildings in Ensanche and check out Ruzafa, a working-class, ethnically-diverse section, that is becoming the city's hippest area.

Mercado Central

VALENCIA'S FOOD SPECIALTIES
The Valencia region is famous for its produce such as oranges and rice and wonderful food including Spain's most famous dish, Paella, and a local drink, Horchata.
Restaurant Week (Cuina Oberta) - Twice a year in spring and fall. With more than 50 restaurants participating, it's a great time to eat some Paella, said to originate from Valencia. Here, the pan of saffron-flavored rice is served with chunks of rabbit, chicken, snails, and vegetables (not seafood). Enjoy some at Palace Fesol (7 Hernán Cortés).
Horchatería Santa Catalina (6 Plaza de Santa Catalina; www.horchateriasantacatalina.com) Try this typical Valencian snack: Horchata, a cold, creamy, sweet drink made from chufas (tiger nuts), often served with Fartons, pastries covered with powdered sugar.

Mercado Central (Plaza Ciudad de Brujas; http://bit.ly/1oUSYe3) One of the largest food markets in Europe, it's a stunning example of Modernist architecture. Built in 1914, locals still buy groceries here.
Mercado de Colón (19 Calle Jorge Juan; www.mercadocolon.es) Another beautiful Modernist structure, this former food market opened in 1916. Today, it's an upscale mall with shops, cafes, and interesting restaurants such as Ma Khin Café. Concerts are also held in the atrium.
Original CV - Shop at one of these stores (or online) for authentic, Valencian food & gift items to bring home.
FANTASTICAL FESTIVALS

Las Fallas

Valencia is also famous for its exceptional festivals throughout the year. Here are two of the zaniest: Las Fallas (March) - Huge Ninots (puppets) depicting satirical scenes--often mocking politicians and celebrities--are filled with fireworks and set on fire. In addition to the pyrotechnics, the weeklong extravaganza includes bullfights, parades, contests, and general merriment. La Tomatina (August) - This tomato-throwing contest, in the nearby town of Buñol, began in 1945. Now, this crazy tradition is a weeklong festival with music, parades, dancing, a big Paella cook-off, and fireworks. (Advanced tickets required.)
PAST, PRESENT & FUTURE
Valencia was founded by the Romans in 138 BC, occupied by Muslims for hundreds of years, then became part of the medieval kingdom of Aragon in 1238. During the 15th century, it was one of the most important Mediterranean cities. Today, the city's past is present as it moves into the future. Here's just a few of the wondrous sites to be visited: 

Museo Arqueológico de La Almoina (Plaza de La Almoina; http://bit.ly/190Xl1S) This museum, on the site where Valencia was founded, offers an exploration of the city's history through excavated ruins from various periods. Archaeological finds include Roman baths, Visigoth tombs, and a Moorish courtyard.

Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange)

La Lonja de la Seda (8-9 Plaza del Mercado; http://bit.ly/1M4LPBM)
This splendid Gothic-style mercantile palace was built in the 15th century to symbolize Valencia's wealth and power. Merchants came from all over to trade here--oil, then silk, followed by agricultural products. Now, it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Plaza de Toros (28 Calle de Xàtiva; www.torosvalencia.com) Bullfights (corridas) still take place in Valencia. If that's not your thing, the beautiful Plaza de Toros amphitheater, built in 1859, is also used as a concert venue. Take a tour of the ring and adjacent museum.

City of Arts & Sciences

Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències (Avenida Autopista del Saler; Tel: +34 902 100 031; cac.es) Designed by native-son, architect Santiago Calatrava, the stunning City of Arts & Sciences is a 21st-century, architectural marvel. The complex includes: Museo de las Cièncias Príncipe Felipe - a family-friendly science museum; Oceanografic - a marine park & one of Europe’s largest aquariums; Hemisfèric - Auditorium & Planetarium; Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía - a spectacular opera house; Umbracle - a beautiful, covered garden. Plan plenty of time to explore it all.
Palau de la Música (30 Paseo de la Alameda; www.palaudevalencia.com) Valencia's concert hall is known for its wonderful acoustics. Some of the most prestigious orchestras in the world perform here.
SENSATIONAL CERAMICS

Arturo Mora ceramics

The region of Valencia is renowned for ceramics. In addition to these museums, be sure to visit the nearby, world-famous-for-ceramics town of Manises.
Museo Nacional de Cerámica de Valencia González Martí (2 Poeta Querol; http://bit.ly/1DnHGEV) Housed in a beautiful, 15th-century palace, the museum traces the history of ceramics from prehistoric pieces to contemporary works by Picasso.
Lladró Museum (Ctra. de Alboraya, Tavernes Blanques; Tel: +34 963 187 000; http://bit.ly/1A2Qcqw) Lladró figurines are beloved world-over. At the headquarters in the Tavernas Blanques suburb, see the family's private collection since the 1953 beginning and take a factory tour to observe how everything's made. (Reservations required.)

Bioparc

PARKS & REC
Beach Day: As a costal city, Valencia has beautiful beaches just a metro ride away from the center of town. Stroll along Paseo Marítimo, the lovely beachfront promenade lined with cafés and restaurants, as you soak up the sun.

Paseo Maritimo, Valencia's beachfront

A Walk in the Park: When the flood-prone river Turia, surrounding the city of Valencia, was diverted, the riverbed was turned into parkland. The Jardín del Turia (Turia Gardens; locals still call it El Rio, the river) is the pride and joy of the city with jogging & cycling paths, gardens, fountains, & playgrounds.
Better Than a Zoo: Bioparc - Without leaving Valencia, be transported to an African wildlife sanctuary. If you're traveling with kids or just love animals, spend a day here watching antelopes, zebras, gorillas, ring-tailed lemurs, warthogs, lions, and leopards, just to name a few, roam freely in natural habitats. Have a meal on the cafeteria terrace as giraffes stroll by!
DAY TRIPS: MANISES - Renowned for ceramics since the 14th century, with some 30 pottery workshops, many open to visitors--be sure to visit La Cerámica Valenciana & Arturo Mora. Manises is just a metro ride away from Valencia. SERGORBE - In the Valencian province of Castelló, Segorbe is famous for many things including a bull-running week (Semana de Toros) and fabulous olive oil, Belluga.
LEARN SPANISH AND/OR STUDY MUSIC

Spanish: The University of Valencia dates from 1499. While many high school and college students come here to study Spanish, there are also several language schools and programs that cater to adults. Music: The international campus of Boston's renowned Berklee College of Music is in Valencia. Both are great excuses to spend some time in this beautiful city! 
Making Your Trip Easier: Valencia Tourist Card - Unlimited travel on public transport, plus discounts at shops, restaurants and museums.
Where to Stay: There are any number of great places to stay from budget hostels (Nest) to lovely boutique hotels to five-star accommodations (Las Arenas, right on the beach) or vacation-rental apartments. AdHoc Monumental Hotel (4 Calle Boix, Tel: +34 963 919 140; www.adhochoteles.com) - This charming, boutique hotel with a delightful & helpful staff is right in the heart of the Old Town district.

Modernist building in Ruzafa

Getting There: Currently, there are no direct flights into Valencia from the U.S. Fly to Madrid with a connecting flight or take Spain’s high-speed train the AVE from Madrid's Atocha station to Valencia, about 90 minutes. Or, fly into Barcelona and take a local train. You can pre-purchase train tickets on RailEurope or Omio, a great site that cost compares flight, train, & bus options. Spain's national airlines, Iberia, has an excellent on-time record, new aircraft on long-haul flights, reconfigured Business class and, what feels like, a roomier Coach section as well. While Valencia is worth visiting all on its own, you can easily combine it with a trip to Madrid and/or Barcelona. Spain has so much to offer!

Day Trips: Visit 4 Knockout Homes by Famous Architects & Designers

By Jacquelin Carnegie 

The Glass House, Mies van der Rohe's Barcelona furnishings
(photo: Eirik Johnson)

When this talented group of architects and designers first presented their modernist ideas, they were considered outlandish and avant-garde. Over time, their designs became popular and then all-the-rage. Today, their iconic concepts are lauded and praised. It's wonderful to see their work in situ. These famous homes are now house-museums (and National Historic Landmarks), open to the public, and well worth a visit. Go for a day trip or weekend get-away.
DESIGNED BY ARCHITECTS
Massachusetts
GROPIUS HOUSE
68 Baker Bridge Rd; Lincoln, MA; Tel: 781/259-8098; www.historicnewengland.org (Open year-round; guided tour)

Almost everything we think of as modern—from architecture to furniture to painting—came out of the Bauhaus design movement, founded in Germany in 1919 by the architect Walter Gropius. When the Nazis closed the Bauhaus school in 1933, Gropius was invited to teach architecture at Harvard's Graduate School of Design (Philip Johnson and I. M. Pei were his students).

Gropius House (photo: Historic New England)

This modest house, built in 1938, combines Bauhaus concepts with traditional New England architectural elements. The Gropius family's possessions are still in place giving you a good idea of what daily life was like in this uniquely-designed house where such luminaries as Alexander Calder, Joan Miro, Igor Stravinsky, Henry Moore, and Frank Lloyd Wright were guests!

Dine: Twisted Tree Café (145 Lincoln Rd, Lincoln, MA) Stay: Lincoln is only about 30 mins from Boston. Charles Hotel (1 Bennett St, Cambridge, MA; Tel: 617/864-1200; www.charleshotel.com)
Getting there: Drive or train from Boston, take a MBTA Commuter Rail (Fitchburg Line) to Lincoln; then a taxi. (The Twisted Tree Café is across the street from the station.)
Connecticut
THE GLASS HOUSE - Philip Johnson The Glass House Visitors Center, 199 Elm St., New Canaan, CT; Tel: 203/594-9884; www.theglasshouse.org (Open April to December; guided tour) 

Renowned architect Philip Johnson took Bauhaus concepts to heart and added his own spin to create one of the most iconic houses in the world. Built in 1949, the Glass House still takes your breath away. For furnishings, Johnson chose a few minimalist Barcelona pieces designed by architect Mies van der Rohe, a former head of the Bauhaus school.

The Glass House, Veil (photo: JCarnegie)

The Glass House ushered the International Style into residential American architecture and into the neighborhood--New Canaan, CT has a plethora of modernist homes. Every two years, the New Canaan Historical Society gives a Modern House Tour. (Veil, a fog sculpture by Japanese artist Fujiko Nakaya, was on view at the Glass House in 2014.) 

Dine: New Canaan's Main Street has a wide range of restaurants and cafés. Stay: Roger Sherman Inn (195 Oenoke Ridge, New Canaan, CT; Tel: 203/966-4541; www.rogershermaninn.com)
Getting there: Drive or train from New York (Grand Central Station), take a Metro-North train (New Haven Line) to New Canaan; walk across the street to the Visitors Center.

BUILT BY DESIGNERS
New York

American Modern

MANITOGA: The Russel Wright Design Center
584 Route 9D, Garrison, New York; Tel: 845/424-3812; www.visitmanitoga.org (Open May to November; guided tour) 

Manitoga (photo: G Horton)

Russel Wright, along with his wife Mary, was an acclaimed American designer best known for his ingenious home furnishings line and innovative tableware. (The Iroquois Casual and American Modern china, made from the 1930s to the 50s, is still highly collectible.) Less known is the fact that Wright built a stunning glass house and "designed" the surrounding 75-acre landscape, transforming a once-abandoned quarry site. It's a treat to visit his magnificent home and hike the Wright-designed trails; wear study shoes. (If you fancy Wright's dinnerware, reproduction American Modern is available from Bauer Pottery.) 

Dine: Dolly's Stay: The Garrison Inn (only 4 rooms, so book early)
Getting there: Drive or train from New York (Grand Central Station), take a Metro-North train (Hudson Line) to Garrison Station, then a taxi.(Alley's Way Taxi, reserve in advance, Tel: 845/265-7655) or one of these other options.

New Jersey

THE STICKLEY MUSEUM at Craftsman Farms
2352 Rt. 10-West, # 5, Morris Plains, New Jersey; Tel: 973/540-0311; www.stickleymuseum.org (Open year-round; guided tours)

(photo: Ray Stubblebine,
 The Craftsman Farms Foundation) 

Visionary furniture designer Gustav Stickley was a major proponent of the American Arts and Crafts Movement. Built in 1911, his New Jersey home, showcasing his innovative designs, gives you a wonderful idea of how his various furniture and design pieces work together to create a harmonious ambience. (If you love Stickley's designs but can’t afford originals, buy “re-issues,” not reproductions, of classic Craftsman furniture from Stickley, Audi & Co.)  

Dine: Pack a picnic and enjoy dining al fresco on these beautiful, 30-area park grounds. Stay: Here's a list of hotels, B&Bs, and restaurants in the area. Getting there: Drive or train from New York (Penn Station), take a NJ Transit train (Morristown Line) to Morris Plains, then a taxi.

Editor's Note: Here's a list of stunning Iconic Houses all over the world that are open to the public.

5 Great Day Trips from Brussels, Belgium

By Jacquelin Carnegie 

(photo: VisitBrussels)

Brussels is a lovely little city to explore with over 100 museums, plenty of wonderful restaurants, and the delightful Dansaert shopping district. Famous for its food and beer, comics and artists, you'll have a great time. But, Belgium is a small country—it doesn’t take more than an hour by train to visit most of the major highlights—so plan your trip to take advantage of all the country has to offer. It's easy to get around by train, bus or rental car.
Belgium has two regions: Wallonia, which is French-speaking, and Flanders where Flemish (like Dutch) is spoken. Don’t fret; many people also speak English.
DISCOVER WALLONIA: DAY TRIPS FROM BRUSSELS
Art in the Park

(photo: Folon Foundation)

Fondation Folon
Ferme du Château de La Hulpe, Drève de la Ramée 6 A, La Hulpe; www.fondationfolon.be
Jean-Michel Folon was a fabulous, 20th-century, Belgian painter, illustrator and sculptor. While not as well known as his compatriot, the surrealist painter René Magritte, both liked to paint men in hats. Folon's celebrated work--beautiful watercolors, posters on behalf of important causes, and whimsical sculptures--is displayed in Château de La Hulpe’s ancient farmhouse in Solvay Park, about a half-hour from Brussels. After you’ve viewed the collection, enjoy lunch at the adjacent café, Taverne de L’Homme Bleu, and take a stroll through the magnificent park.
Getting There: TEC Bus: #366 from Ixelles: Etangs d'Ixelles on Ave. du General de Gaulle in Brussels to La Hulpe Etang Solvay, about an hour. In the park, follow the path that leads to your left, signage to the Fondation is limited. I’m a firm believer in public transportation, but this trip is easier by car (about 30 minutes) and you could combine it with a visit to Waterloo, ten minutes away.

Living History: A Bad Day for Napoleon
Waterloo Battlefield
Route du Lion 315, Waterloo; www.waterloo1815.be

(photo: Waterloo Battlefield)

It’s always thrilling to be in a spot where world history was made. The Battle of Waterloo was one of the most important in European history. It marked the fall of Napoleon and paved the way for a new era of peace in Europe. On June 18, 1815, Napoleon, the Duke of Wellington, Field-Marshal Blücher and 350,000 soldiers met on this battlefield, which has been preserved in its original state. You can take a tour, see reenactments, and learn more about the events leading up to the battle. But, you don’t have to be a military history buff to enjoy a visit to this beautiful and fascinating sight.
Getting There: Train: From Brussels Midi train station to Braine L’Alleud about 20 minutes. Then, walk or taxi to the Waterloo Battlefield Visitors’ Center. TEC Bus: #365a or W outside Brussels Midi station to Route de Nivelles, not Waterloo stop, about 45 minutes. (This trip by car is about 30 minutes from Brussels.)

DISCOVER FLANDERS
ANTWERP: A Passion for Fashion
Antwerp

(photo: Dries van Norten)

is a hidden gem. Known for diamonds, which are just dull stones until cut and polished, this city became famous for the "Antwerp cut," said to give diamonds more sparkle. Browse the diamond district near the beautifully-restored Central Station, but purchase only from a reputable shop with the "Antwerp's Most Brilliant" label (www.awdc.be). Antwerp is also a fashion center thanks to the now-famous “Antwerp Six,” a group of avant-garde fashion designers (Walter van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten, Dirk van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs, Marina Yee) who burst onto the scene about 30 years ago and put Antwerp on the fashion map. Shop-till-you-drop in the lovely Sint-Andries neighborhood. Even better, go with a personal shopper. You'll want to stay longer than a day.
Shops: Louis (Lombardenstraat 2) - The store that launched the Sixers’ careers; Modepaleis (Nationalestraat 16) - Dries van Noten’s flagship store. 
Personal Shopper: Go with style consultant Tanguy Ottomer (Beroepsbelg; Tel: +32(0)3 430 23 30; http://beroepsbelg.be; half & full day rates)
Dine: Het Pomphuis (Siberiastraat z/n) - Delicious meals in a spectacular setting. De Lokeend (General Belliardstraat 11) - A unique dining experience for groups of 12+; diners in a fabulous, private home.
Stay: Lots of options from nice hotels to campsites. Park Inn (Koningin Astridplein 14) - Hip & conveniently-located.
Getting There: Train from Brussels Centrale station to Antwerp, about 30 minutes.

BRUGES: Chocolates & Canals 

Bruges

(photo: @mgdlnvlgr)

Famed for its medieval city center and canals, Bruges is now more popular than ever. The downside is hoards of tourists and local shops turned into tourist traps. To experience Bruges’ true beauty, rise early and/or stay up late to stroll the cobblestone streets free of the maddening crowds. But, nothing can spoil chocolate—there are some 40 shops to choose from. Start at the Chocolatier Van Oost (Wollestraat 11).
Dine: Cafedraal (Zilverstraat 38) - Delicious regional and seasonal dishes.
Stay: Plenty of lovely hotels and B&Bs to choose from. Pand Hotel (Pandreitje 16) - For a splurge, try this fashionably-decorated spot.
Getting There: Train from Brussels Centrale station to Bruges, about an hour.

GHENT: Beauty Beyond Measure
Ghent

(photo: Nataša Pavlović)

If you have time for only one day trip from Brussels, let it be this one. Ghent is the real deal. It has everything Bruges has--canals, unbelievable architecture--just on a slightly larger scale with fewer tourists. Take a boat ride on the canals. Admire the cityscape of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Neo-Classical architecture. Marvel at the magnificent, 13th- to 17th-century guildhalls along the banks of the canals. Wander around, then relax at any number of lovely, sidewalk cafés, taverns or brasseries. But, be sure to stay for nightfall when all the buildings and monuments are illuminated.
Dine: Mosquito Coast (Hoogpoort 28) - Inexpensive & in a great location overlooking the canal; Korenlei Twee (Korenlei 2 ) - A bit more stylish; Café Theatre (Schouwburgstraat 7) - Elegant, right next to the opera house; known for its Moëlleux, a cake with melted chocolate inside.
Stay: Several splendid places to choose from. Ghent Marriott (Korenlei 10) - An historic building with a hi-tech interior, right in the heart of it all.
Getting There: Train from Brussels Centrale station to Ghent (Sint-Pieters station), about 35 minutes. Then, Tram #1 into the center city, 7 mins.

Transportation Options in Belgium: 

Train/Bus: Brussels has three train stations (Brussels Centrale, Brussels Midi, Brussels Nord). The trains you’ll need for most of these trips leave from Brussels Centrale; the trains are frequent and inexpensive. Schedules & fares: SNCB or Rail Europe. The TEC Bus is also very convenient. Car Rental: All the major rental car companies are in the Arrivals Hall at Brussels Airport and, in the city center, at the Brussels Midi train station: Avis, Hertz, Europcar, etc. Travel in Style: Hire a car and driver from Modern Car. 

Magritte, La Décalcomanie

Making Your Trip Easier: City Cards give access to museums, public transport, special discounts, etc. They are useful if you plan to cram in a lot of sightseeing, but are less beneficial if you intend a more leisurely trip: BrusselsCard, Antwerp CityPass, CityCard Ghent. 

BeroepsBelg - Offers all kinds of interesting tours in several Belgian cities.
Getting to Belgium: Brussels Airlines has just upgraded its fleet to offer more transatlantic comfort. Bon Voyage!