Dutch Treat: Discover New York City’s Dutch Sites -- Past & Present

By Jacquelin Carnegie

“View of New Amsterdam” 1664, Johannes Vingboons

Even though the Dutch were only in charge here for some 50 years back in the 1600s, they had a profound influence on the city. It’s said that the unique character of New York is a result of the entrepreneurial spirit and open-minded tolerance of the early Dutch settlers.

The Dutch made New York harbor one of the most prosperous ports in America and, some 400 years later, the city is still the most important metropolis in the world.
When the British took over in 1664, and New Amsterdam became New York (in honor of the Duke of York, King Charles II’s brother), many Dutch street and neighborhood names and historic sites remained as well as the original settlers. Today, Dutch influence is still felt throughout the city.

PAST: EXPLORE THE VESTIGES OF NEW YORK’S DUTCH PAST
Take a Walk on the Dutch Side
Although no Dutch buildings still exist from the New Amsterdam period (all were destroyed in the Great Fire of 1835), you can still walk some of the original streets:

Stone Street 

Back in the 1640s, the Dutch colonists laid out many narrow, dirt lanes such as South William Street (Slyck Steegh - muddy lane). Stone Street (Hoogh Straet - High Street) was the main drag in New Amsterdam, the first cobblestone-paved street in the city. The water’s edge was then a block away at Pearl Street (Paerlstraat), while Wall Street (Waal Straat) marked the end of town.
New Amsterdam had a remarkable number of taverns and that tradition is alive and well today on Stone Street. In nice weather (April-Nov), it resembles an outdoor beer garden with communal picnic tables in the street.
Go on a Walking Tour
Discover New York’s 17th-century Dutch roots on a guided or self-guided, walking tour. Learn about Dutch landmarks, architecture, monuments and street names:
Guided Tour: The Bowery Boys - New Amsterdam Tour: Dutch Roots of New York
How did the Dutch city of Nieuw Amsterdam become New York City?
On this 2-hour tour, walk along the original street grid & learn about the complex history of lower Manhattan in the 1600s.
Audio Self-Guided Tours: How Dutch is New York? - The New Amsterdam Tour & The Brooklyn Tour. New Amsterdam Trail: The 8 stops on this Trail commemorate the legendary journey of Henry Hudson in 1609 to what became New Amsterdam & then New York.

VISIT HISTORIC DUTCH SITES
These are some highlights that still exist from Dutch New York:

Van Cortlandt House Museum

Wyckoff Farmhouse Museum
5816 Clarendon Rd, Brooklyn, NY; Tel: 718/629-5400; wyckoffmuseum.org 
A relic from the New Amsterdam period, the Wyckoff Farmhouse is probably the oldest, still-existing structure in New York City, dating back to 1652.
Van Cortlandt House Museum
Broadway at West 246th St; Tel: 718/543-3344; https://www.vchm.org
Built in 1748, on a plantation that is now the magnificent Van Cortlandt Park. The house is furnished to depict how it may have looked during the period from 1749 to 1823. During the Revolutionary War, George Washington stayed at the Van Cortlandt House, at least twice.
Dyckman Farmhouse Museum
4881 Broadway at 204th St; Tel: 212/304-9422; www.dyckmanfarmhouse.org 
This farmhouse, built by William Dyckman in about 1784, was once part of a thriving 250-acre farm. Learn about the transformation from farming community to urban neighborhood.

Stadt Huys (City Hall) 1642, 71 Pearl St; courtesy NYPL

St. Mark’s Church-in-the-Bowery
131 East 10th St.; Tel: 212/674-6377; stmarksbowery.org 
This property, once owned by Peter Stuyvesant in 1660, it’s the oldest site of continuous worship in New York City.
Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace
28 East 20th St.; Tel: 212/260-1616; www.nps.gov/thrb - The Roosevelt family was part of the original group of Dutch merchants who made their fortunes turning New York harbor into a prosperous port.

ADMIRE DUTCH ART

"Herman Doomer" Rembrandt, 1640;
The Met Museum

Dutch Masters on View: Works by renowned Dutch artists such as Frans Hals, Rembrandt, Vermeer, van Dyck and van Gogh are on exhibit at several NYC museums: The Frick (1 East 70th St; www.frick.org); The Met (1000 Fifth Ave at 82nd St; www.metmuseum.org); MoMA (11 West 53 St; www.moma.org) - See work by modern Dutch artists such as Piet Mondrian, Willem de Kooning, and contemporary designers such as Hella Jongerius & Marcel Wanders. 
The Museum of the City of New York (1220 Fifth Ave at 103rd St; www.mcny.org) - Timescapes, a documentary, traces the history and development of New York City over the past 400 years. 

PRESENT: NEW YORK’S DUTCH PAST CONTINUES
It’s only fitting that New York, that got its’ start from the Dutch, continues to benefit from “Dutch treats”:

“Stil Life” Floris van Schooten, 1630

Try Some Dutch Food
Typical Dutch Treats: Haring (herring), Krokets (croquettes), Gouda (cheese), Poffertjes (small pancakes), Stroopwafel (waffle-like cookies with caramel filling), and Indonesian Rijsttafel.
Russ & Daughters: Hollandse Nieuwe (New Catch Holland Herring) - Each year, during the late spring and early summer, the herring in the North Sea reach their peak condition. In Holland, the start of this season is a national holiday. In New York City, Russ & Daughters imports them directly from the Netherlands and holds a “Herring Pairing” party in July. Traditionally, this fish is eaten by holding the whole herring by the tail and dropping it into your mouth.
Wonderen Stroopwafels Café (GCT, Lower-Level Dining Concourse, LC-11, 89 East 42nd St; https://wonderenstroopwafels.com) - Located in Grand Central Terminal’s dining concourse, this dessert stand offers classic Dutch Stroopwafel cookies.
Java Indonesian (455 7th Ave, Brooklyn, NY; Tel: 718/832-4583; java.com) - Try this popular Dutch-Indonesian dish: Rijsttafel, rice served with little, side dishes of spicy meats, shrimp, chicken, veggies, fruits, etc.

DISCOVER DUTCH CULTURAL HERITAGE
Here are some more ways to continue your exploration of this fascinating period of New York’s Dutch history:

Russel Shorto book

Read All About It: Start by reading these great books by historian Russell Shorto: “The Island at the Center of the World” - New Amsterdam began as a trading post for the Dutch West India Company in 1624 but evolved into a unique, progressive enclave where people of different nationalities, religions & races lived together. "Taking Manhattan" - The British were able to take over the island in 1664, because they arrived with war ships while New Amsterdam was defenseless.
“Amsterdam: A History of the World's Most Liberal City” - Read about the source of the Dutch, 17th-century, enlightenment ideas that took root in New Amsterdam.

New Amsterdam History Center (https://newamsterdamhistorycenter.org)
- Offers interactive, online tools to explore New Amsterdam then, and New York now. The Holland Society of New York (https://hollandsociety.org) - Collects and preserve information regarding the early history and settlement of New Netherland by the Dutch. Dutch Culture USA

(https://www.dutchcultureusa.com) - Provides information on Dutch cultural activities in the U.S.

“New Amsterdam 1660” courtesy: So St Seaport Museum

South Street Seaport Museum
12 Fulton St & 213 Water St; https://southstreetseaportmuseum.org - Located in the historic seaport district of New York City, the museum preserves and interprets the history of New York as a great port city.

CHECK OUT MODERN-DAY DUTCH INFLUENCE
New Amsterdam Plein & Pavilion - In Peter Minuit Plaza, in front of the Staten Island Ferry Terminal, the New Amsterdam Plein is a novel NYC Visitor Info kiosk, snack bar & restrooms, designed by Dutch architect Ben van Berkel of UNStudio. (Looks like it was built for The Jetsons.)
Park on Governors Island (New York Harbor; www.govisland.com) - Dutch landscape architects & urban planners, West 8, were part of a team who designed the exceptional park concept on the renovated Governors Island.
Tiptoe Through the Tulips

“New Visions of Old New York” New Amsterdam History Center

From late April to early May some 50,000 tulips are in bloom at the New York Botanical Garden (www.nybg.org) and in the city parks (www.nycgovparks.org). 
Then, wander over to The Bowery (bouwerij - farm), up to Harlem (Haarlem), over to Brooklyn (Breukelen), and out to Coney Island (conyne – rabbits) to continue your exploration of Dutch New York!

Explore France’s Normandy Coastline, Côte d'Albâtre: Part lll: DIEPPE: 5 Great Reasons To Visit

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Eugène Boudin On the Beach, Dieppe (1864)

There are so many reasons to explore France’s Normandy coastline: The Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster coast) is a stretch of chalk cliffs, like England’s white cliffs of Dover across The Channel, with several worthwhile stops along the way.

Dieppe is considered France’s very first seaside resort and has the prestigious Ville d’Art et d’Histoire (“Town of Art & History”) label awarded by the French Ministry of Culture. It also has some of the best seafood restaurants along the coast!

A LOVELY SEASIDE TOWN
In the 19th century, the upper classes became preoccupied with their health. By mid-century, physicians began touting the medicinal benefits of fresh air, exercise, and sea bathing. European elites beat a path to the beach, making villes balnéaire (seaside towns) and “sea cures” all the rage.
Dieppe is considered France’s very first seaside resort as sea bathing began here as far back as 1822. In 1824, the famous Duchesse de Berry, daughter-in-law of King Charles X, arrived and turned it into a trendy locale. The British crossed The Channel by ferry and, in 1848, a railway line connected Paris to Dieppe and Parisians started to flock to town. Today, Dieppe is still a popular seaside resort. You can relax on the Plage de Dieppe, a long, pebble beach, stroll along the lovely esplanade, and stay at nice hotels right by the shore.

Kite Festival (photo: David Parry)

Festival International de Cerfs-Volants - Kite Festival (every 2 years, next one Sept 2027) – An exciting event that fills the sky over the beach with delightful shapes & colors!

A HAVEN FOR ARTISTS & WRITERS
In the 19th century, the fashionable seaside resort of Dieppe, also became popular with writers--attracted by its’ vibrant, Bohemian scene--and artists--enticed by its unique atmosphere and quality of light--that inspired them to paint the lively port and lovely beachfront with its dramatic cliffs.
Well-known artists such as J.M.W. Turner, Claude Monet & Camille Pissarro came here to paint. Others such as the German-British artist Walter Sickert came here to live. Famous writers such as Oscar Wilde & Guy de Maupassant came here to hang out.
Dieppe Office de Tourisme (Pont Jehan Ango; Tel: +33 2 32 14 40 60)
Take a fascinating tour of all the sights that inspired the painters & writers, stroll through Le Pollet, the historic, fishermen’s neighborhood, and learn the history behind the churches Église Saint-Jacques & Église Saint-Rémy.
a) Do self-guided, walking tours with the aid of these maps; b) The Tourism Office can arrange a guide such as Bertrand Edimo from the Dieppe Ville d’Art et d’Histoire office. (Tours in French, English, Spanish & German.)

Dieppe Harbor (photo: Lezbroz/Dieppe-Normandie Tourisme)

Château-Musée de Dieppe
(Rue de Chastes; Open: Feb-Dec, Wed-Sun, 10am-6pm; Fee)
Head up a steep hill to the fortress-castle museum, the Vieux-Château, rebuilt in 1435, houses the city’s maritime heritage and one of the finest collections of carved ivories in Europe. There are also Impressionist paintings by famous artists such as Renoir & Pissarro, and a room devoted to French composer Camille Saint-Saëns. Plus, great views over the town.

A GREAT PLACE TO DINE: SEAFOOD & LOCAL SPECIALTIES
After all, Dieppe is a fishing port and, over the centuries, herring and scallops have been two important catches for the community. In fact, Dieppe is France’s leading port for this exceptional shellfish (Coquille Saint-Jacques = scallops).

Fish Market (photo: Paul Grecaud)

Foire aux Harengs et à la Coquille Saint-Jacques - Herring & Scallop Festival (3rd weekend in November) – Not only seafood, but a town fair with entertainment & parades.
Local Specialties: Marché de Dieppe
(Saturday, 8am-1pm) - This Saturday-morning market was voted Plus Beau Marché de France (“Most Beautiful Market in France”). Some 200 vendor stalls run the entire length of the pedestrian street, the Grande Rue, right up to the Place du Puits-Salé, and along the side streets as well. Pick up some mouth-watering, local specialties such as Neufchâtel cheese, apple caramel spread, and cider. Fish, seafood, organic fruits & veggies, spices, and household items.

Dining & Drinks: Most of the chefs for Dieppe’s many, fine restaurants, pick out the freshest catch-of-the-day at the Marché aux Poissons.

Le Bas Fort Blanc (Photo: Khris Passenaud)

Bistrot des Barrières (5 Arcade de la Poissonnerie; Tel: +33 2 35 40 46 83) - The most delicious dishes of freshly-caught, local seafood served along with organic fruits & vegetables from a nearby farm. Everything is expertly-made in-house, including the bread.

Le Bas Fort Blanc (10 Rue Alexandre Dumas; Tel: +33 2 35 06 01 36) - Right on the ocean with stunning views, a large outdoor patio & indoor dining. Tasty, fresh-seafood offerings, great drinks, and fancy desserts.
Café des Tribunaux (Place du Puits Salé) - This historic place is best for drinks on the café terrace where Oscar Wilde and Guy De Maupassant used to hang out.

SPORTS GALORE: A GREAT PLACE TO HIKE & BIKE
In addition to all the fabulous watersports (surfing, sailing, kayaking, paddleboarding, etc.), you can go on local hikes and bike rides or do something a little more ambitious…

Sailing (photo: Ville de Dieppe)

Hiking Trail, GR21 – This is a long-distance, hiking trail that goes along Normandy’s Côte d'Albâtre. You could hike all the way from Le Havre to Dieppe and on to Le Tréport or just do smaller segments. 
3 Biking Routes: If you don’t have a bike, there are plenty of places to rent one.
1) Vélomaritime (EuroVelo 4) - This biking route goes along Normandy’s coastline. Instead of hiking, you could bike all the way from Le Havre to Dieppe and on to Le Tréport.
2) Véloroute du Lin - This is a lovely bike route through the countryside between Dieppe and Fécamp.
3) Avenue Verte - How ambitious are you? Bike all the way from Paris to Dieppe (& on to London via a ferry segment).

A LOVELY DAY TRIP
VARENGEVILLE-SUR-MER: Close to Dieppe, this lovely, little town has been a favorite spot for musicians, writers, and artists: the Impressionists Monet, Renoir, Pissarro, Corot and the Cubist artist Georges Braque, who became a resident, Surrealist painter Joan Miró and the Modernist sculptor Alexandre Calder. It’s as alluring today and worth a visit, especially for these two spots:

Église Saint-Valéry, marine cemetery
(photo: Mairie de Varengeville-sur-Mer)

Église Saint-Valéry (43 Rte de I’Église) – Perched atop the Ailly cliff, the church was originally built in the 12th century by Conches Abbey monks and enlarged in the 16th century. The interior is now adorned by modern art, notably stained-glass windows by Georges Braque and his student Raoul Ubac. Braque is buried in the church’s “sailors cemetery”; he designed his own gravestone, a mosaic of a bird in flight.
Musée Michel Ciry 

(6 bis rue Marguerite Rolle; https://www.museemichelciry.com Open: May-Sept, Wed-Mon, 2-6pm; April & Oct, weekends, 2-6pm; Fee) - Michel Ciry was a French painter, composer, and writer born in Brittany in 1919. He was known foremost as a master engraver and illustrator, but he did work in various mediums such as oil, watercolor, and ink. In 1964, he moved to Varengeville-sur-Mer where he lived until his death in 2018. In 2012, he created a museum to present a permanent collection of his work. A devout Christian, his art is largely devoted to sacred themes, but he also did lovely landscapes and touching portraits. Built next to his former farmhouse home, the museum is a stunning, modern structure that has space for temporary exhibits by other artists and offers cultural events such as concerts and readings, in tribute to his other achievements in music and literature.

Getting There: From Dieppe to Varengeville-sur-Mer, take bus (NOMAD autocar) Ligne 514 (around 1/2 hour); for another interesting visit, continue on to Veules-les-Roses (named one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”). 

Making Your Trip to Dieppe Easier:
Tourisme Pass (July-Sept; Fee) – Provides entry to many monuments & activities. 
Where To Stay: All kinds of accommodations to choose from, including those on the seafront. 

Michel Ciry Le Tréport 1976

Hôtel Aguado (30 Blvd de Verdun, https://www.hoteldieppe.com) - Family-run for 3 generations, the hotel offers the best of both worlds: it overlooks the sea & is also smack-dab in the middle of town, close to all the sights, shops & restaurants.

Getting Around: There’s a free shuttle bus that makes a loop around town from the train station to the beach & regular bus routes, DeepMob.
Petit Train de Dieppe (Feb-Nov; Fee) – Many French towns have a little, tourist train; a 45-minute loop of all the important sights. 
Getting There: The Normandy region has its own train lines NOMAD; Paris - Gare Saint Lazare, with a connection in Rouen to Dieppe (2 1/2 hours). 
Bus: FLIXBUS – Paris direct to Dieppe (around 3 hours)
Ferry from England: Newhaven – Dieppe (4 hours) 
Nearby Jaunts: Visit other lovely towns along the Côte d'Albâtre. Normandy also has its own bus lines (NOMAD autocar): From Dieppe to Fécamp (Ligne 514 to St Valéry en Caux, then 513). Ligne 509 connects Fécamp - Etretat - Le Havre.

***

Going Green: The Normandy region encourages “green” travel with some unique offers: Le Tarif bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Rate) – Get 10% off at various attractions by showing your train or bus ticket, or a photo of your bike! Sejours bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Visits) – Suggestions of places to visit that are easy to get to (& get around) without a car. If you really want to drive, rent an electric car! Explore Normandy Pass – Discounts throughout the region. Claude Monet - 2026 marks the 100th anniversary of his death; there’ll be lots of special exhibits in Normandy.

Explore France’s Normandy Coastline, Côte d'Albâtre: Part ll: FÉCAMP: 5 Great Reasons To Visit

Fécamp (photo: Thomas Le Floc'H)

By Jacquelin Carnegie

There are so many reasons to explore France’s Normandy coastline: The Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster coast) is a stretch of chalk cliffs, like England’s white cliffs of Dover across The Channel, with several worthwhile stops along the way.
Fécamp is a charming place to vacation; a lovely, relaxing spot with lots of interesting sites because…it was once a coastal base for the Dukes of Normandy in the 11th century and the locale of an important Benedictine Abbey during the early Middle Ages. Also, over the centuries, Fécamp became France’s top cod fishing port and today you can enjoy a meal of freshly-caught fish at the Marché aux Poissons as well as in almost every restaurant in town!

THREE MUST-SEE SITES
Les Pêcheries - Musée de Fécamp
3 Quai Capitaine Jean Recher; www.musee-fecamp.fr (Open daily, Fee)

Crinolines sur la plage, Fécamp, Jules Achille Noel, 1871; Les Pêcheries

Housed in a former 1950’s cod-drying factory, Les Pêcheries is actually several museums combined into one, all related to the history of Fécamp: First, the museum presents a comprehensive idea of the local way of life over the centuries. Next, it details the history of cod and herring fishing, the most important commercial activity in the area since ancient times. (The Fécamp fishermen ventured as far north as the Canadian coast of Newfoundland to catch cod.) Then, there’s a collection of fine art paintings reflecting the sights, history and events pertinent to the area. Plus, a fascinating exhibit devoted to a local doctor, Dr. Léon Dufour, whose innovations in the 19th century saved the lives of infants worldwide. Last-but-not-least, on the top floor, there’s a 360° view of the surroundings: town, sea, and cliffs.

Palais Bénédictine
110 rue Alexandre Le Grand; www.benedictinedom.com (Open daily, Guided tour, Fee)

Palais Bénédictine

Even if you don’t drink or have any interest in liqueur, this is a must-visit. The Benedictine Palace is an architectural delight of neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance inspiration, built at the end of the 19th century with finely-decorated rooms, stunning stained-glass windows, and carved-wood walls.
Legend has it that in the Middle Ages a Benedictine monk came up with the recipe for a digestive based on 27 medicinal herbs and spices. The recipe was lost over time and only rediscovered in 1863 by a wine merchant from Fécamp, Alexander Le Grand. Monsieur Le Grant made Benedictine liqueur into a worldwide brand and built this amazing “palace” to house the only Benedictine distillery in the world as well as his eclectic collection of objects d’art. At the end of the tour, you also get to taste this unique liqueur.

Abbatiale de la Sainte Trinité - Abbey of the Holy Trinity of Fécamp
10 rue des Forts (Open daily; April-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-March, 9am-12pm/2-5pm; Free to visit; Guided tour in French, Fee)

Fécamp Abbey

From the 11th century onwards, Benedictine monks settled here at the invitation of the Dukes of Normandy as it had been a holy site for centuries and one of the first pilgrimage locations in Normandy. The Fécamp Abbey is an impressive Gothic structure (127 meters/417 feet long), almost the same length as the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris (128 meters/420 feet) with interior adornments of interest from several centuries, such as: the Tabernacle of the Precious Blood, the 15th-century sculpture of the Dormition of the Virgin, and the magnificent 17th-century, Astronomical clock displaying: time, moon phases, and the tides.

OTHER ACTIVITIES TO ENJOY
The Great Outdoors: There’s every kind of enjoyable, outdoor activity imaginable in this bucolic spot: hiking, biking, horseback-riding, sailing and, of course, just relaxing on the beach. Plus, several interesting Guided Tours (Tours in French; in English only for groups in case you’re traveling with many friends &/or your whole family in tow). Check with the tourism office for all the options: Fécamp Tourisme (Quai Sadi Carnot, Tel: +33 2 35 28 51 01) 

On the Beach, Fecamp, Berthe Morisot, 1873

Marché aux Poissons 

(2 rue du Commandant Riondel; Seasonal Opening hours: Fri & Sat, 9am-12:30pm/3pm-7pm; Tues-Thurs, 9am-12:30pm)
- Enjoy a freshly-caught, seafood meal at the Marché aux Poissons (fish market). Depending on the time of year, the best catch might be: cod, sole, bream, smoked & salt-cured herring (Oct-Jan), scallops (Oct-May), mackerel (summer), mussels, oysters, whelks & clams.

A LOVELY DAY TRIP
ÉTRETAT: This lovely, little village--known for its falaises, steep cliffs facing the sea, and rock arches (Aval, Amont & Manneporte)--has appealed to artistic types for centuries, such as writers (Guy de Maupassant, Victor Hugo, Gustave Flaubert, etc.) and painters (Claude Monet, Gustave Courbet, Eugène Boudin, etc.). Today, it’s just as inviting. Enjoy the landscape & these two worthwhile sites:
Les Jardins d'Étretat (Ave Damilaville; https://etretatgarden.fr; Closed: Dec-Feb; Fee) - Landscape architect Alexander Grivko transformed the grounds of a Belle Epoque villa into a magnificent, cliffside, topiary garden that features knock-out, contemporary art. Twice awarded the prestigious “Remarkable Garden” label by the French Ministry of Culture.

Les Jardins d’Étretat (photo: Yann Monel)

Clos Lupin – Maison Maurice Leblanc 

(15 rue Guy de Maupassant; Tel: +33 2 35 10 59 53; Fee) – Visit if you’re a fan of Leblanc’s books about the gentleman burglar, Arsène Lupin.
Dine: Restaurant du Perrey (3 rue Général Leclerc) – After sightseeing, enjoy a delicious meal with a spectacular view right on the waterfront. 
Getting to Étretat: From Fécamp or Le Havre by bus (autocar), Ligne 509. 
Or, from Fécamp, take a 2-hour speed boat excursion, La Mer pour Tous, or a 4-hour mini-cruise on a sail boat.

Making Your Trip to Fécamp Easier:
Where To Dine: Many good restaurants in town to choose from, plus the Marché aux Poissons.
Where To Stay: Absolutely all kinds of nice accommodations.
Hôtel Le Grand Pavois (15 Quai de la Vicomte; https://www.hotel-grand-pavois.com/en) - Nice, modern hotel in a great location, right on the harbor.
Getting around: In-town the Fici Bus. Fécamp Brochures & Maps (in French & English).

Fécamp harbor

Getting There: The Normandy region has its own train lines NOMAD; Paris - Gare Saint Lazare, change at Bréauté–Beuzeville for Fécamp (about 2 1/2hrs) 
Bus: FLIXBUS – Paris direct to Fécamp (around 3hrs)
Nearby Jaunts: Visit other lovely towns along the Côte d'Albâtre. Normandy also has its own bus lines (NOMAD autocar): Ligne 509 connects Fécamp - Etretat - Le Havre. From Fécamp to Dieppe (Ligne 513 to St Valéry en Caux, then 514 to Dieppe).

***

Going Green: The Normandy region encourages “green” travel with some unique offers: Le Tarif bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Rate) – Get 10% off at various attractions by showing your train or bus ticket, or a photo of your bike! Sejours bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Visits) – Suggestions of places to visit that are easy to get to (& get around) without a car. If you really want to drive, rent an electric car! Explore Normandy Pass – Discounts throughout the region.

Parc Éolien - France’s first Offshore Wind Farm in Normandy, is off the coast of Fécamp; you can see it on a boat tour.

Claude Monet - 2026 marks the 100th anniversary of his death; there’ll be lots of special exhibits in Normandy.

Explore France’s Normandy Coastline, Côte d'Albâtre: Part I: LE HAVRE: 5 Great Reasons To Visit

By Jacquelin Carnegie
ART, ARCHITECTURE, HISTORY & THE BEACH

Le Havre, Centre-Ville (photo: Valentin Pacaut)

There are so many reasons to explore France’s Normandy coastline: The Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster coast) is a stretch of chalk cliffs, like England’s white cliffs of Dover across The Channel, with several worthwhile stops along the way. 

Le Havre, located on the Seine River estuary where it meets the English Channel, is the busiest port on the northern French coast. Many people come to Normandy to see the D-Day Landing beaches; well, Le Havre is another part of that World War II history--bombed by the Allies in 1944 to liberate the port from the occupying Germans.

Maybe you haven’t thought about planning a trip to Le Havre because all you’ve heard is it’s a huge port city with ugly, modern architecture--that doesn’t even come close to properly depicting this outstanding place. Yes, it’s a major port which happens to be amazing. Yes, a section of town was rebuilt after being bombed during World War ll, but the re-build is a must-see, architectural marvel. Plus, the city is just luminous from the quality of light that once even impressed a young painter--Claude Monet.

ARCHITECTURE THAT WILL KNOCK YOUR SOCKS OFF
In 1944, the Allies bombed Le Havre as they moved across Normandy following the D-Day landings. The massive aerial bombardment was part of a plan to break the German defenses and force them to surrender. While Operation Astonia succeeded in its mission, the port and the downtown area of Le Havre was completely destroyed.

Centre-Ville (photo: Phillippe Breard) 

 In the aftermath, it was decided not to just rebuild Le Havre, but to redesign it. The architect chosen for this task was an École des Beaux Arts-trained architect, Auguste Perret, whose innovative concepts turned the destroyed area into a showcase of modernist design. The Centre-Ville Reconstruit du Havre (Reconstructed City Centre) is an outstanding example of post-war, urban planning with an emphasis on light and space: plazas, courtyards, arcades, parks & gardens, and pedestrian streets between the major, triangular axis: Boulevard François I, Avenue Foch, and Rue de Paris. The buildings were constructed from specially-treated concrete, tinted with various stains, that give them a range of hues, from pinkish-beige to golden-brown, preventing a monotonous, gray appearance. The apartments are warm & welcoming with lovely, open-plan layouts that are flooded with light from floor-to-ceiling windows and balconies. Built between 1945 and 1954, Centre-Ville is now a designated UNESCO World Heritage site.

Visit a Furnished Perret Apartment: Appartement Témoin Perret
Maison du Patrimoine, 181 Rue de Paris; Tel: +33 2 35 22 31 22; https://tinyurl.com/3mjf6rxb

Appartement Perret (photo: Phillippe Breard)

(Tour in French; request English, German, Spanish) - Take a guided tour of a period-furnished, Perret apartment; you’ll want to move right in!

Tour the Town: In addition to this Centre-Ville area, there’s many other interesting architectural and unique-to-Le Havre sites worth seeing. You can do:
a) Bus Tour: Bee Le Havre (Audio-guide in French, English, German, Dutch, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian & Russian) - 1-hour tour of the city highlights in a bright, yellow bus. Once you get the lay-of-the-land, go back for a more-extended visit of the sites.
b) Self-Guided Tour - Be sure to check out: Église Saint-Joseph (Blvd François 1er; Open: daily, 10am-6pm; Free) - From the outside, the church looks like Brutalist architecture which belies the magnificent, stained-glass interior. The “Volcano”, a cultural complex & library designed by the architect Oscar Niemeyer. And, while many original buildings were destroyed, there are still some lovely ones from the 16th- & 17th-century as well as examples of Art Nouveau & Art Deco.

BEHOLD THE MAGNIFICENT PORT
Le Havre was founded in 1517 by King François l who wanted a deep-water, fortified port to defend France's coastline and facilitate trade to enhance the nation's strength and influence. During World War II, the Port of Le Havre was occupied and used by the Germans as a strategic naval base. The Allies needed the port to bring supplies to their armies fighting in Europe. Their 1944 bombing liberated yet mostly-destroyed the port. After World War II, the port was rebuilt and, since the early 1970s, the port has undergone significant expansions and modernizations to accommodate larger vessels and increased traffic. 

Port de Plaisance (photo: Sabina Lorkin/Anibas Photography)

Grand Port Maritime du Havre - The Port of Le Havre consists of a series of canal-like docks and multiple terminals for different types of cargo such as container ships and cruise liners. Cruise Terminal (Pointe de Floride) - In addition to being an important, cargo port, several major cruise lines stop in Le Havre, including: MSC Cruises, Norwegian, Royal Caribbean, Cunard, Oceania Cruises, etc. Port de Plaisance - There is also a marina.

Tour the Port of Le Havre:
Vedettes Baie de Seine (Tour in French) – This boat tour of the port is fascinating, even if you don’t speak French. Port Center (Tours in French) – Offers various tours of the port by bus (autocar).

Tour Le Havre in Other Languages:
There are so many interesting sights. If you don’t speak French, there are great
Guides (guide conférencier) who speak English & other languages (i.e., German, Spanish, Italian, etc.) such as the terrific Anne-Charlotte Perré.
Inquire at: the Patrimoine office: Tel: +33 2 35 22 31 22;
maison-patrimoine-info@lehavre-etretat-tourisme.com
Or the Tourism office: Le Havre Etretat Normandie Tourisme
186 Blvd Clemenceau; Tel: +33 2 32 74 04 04

ART IS EVERYWHERE: FROM IMPRESSIONIST TO CONTEMPORARY
Many art historians believe that Impressionism originated in Le Havre as it was here in 1872 that Claude Monet painted his famous Impression, Sunrise which gave its name to the whole art movement. Monet’s mentor, the artist Eugène Boudin, introducing him to en plein air (in the open air) painting--working outdoors rather than in a studio. In 1858, when Monet was just 18 years old, Boudin coaxed him to paint the nature around them--clouds, sun, the seashore--and the way objects changed according to the fluctuating daylight. This plein-air style was also an inspiration to many future generations of artists.

Claude Monet, Impression, Sunrise (1872) 

Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux (MuMa) – Art Museum
2 Blvd Clemenceau, https://www.muma-lehavre.fr
The museum has the second-largest Impressionist collection in France. It was the first museum rebuilt after World War II, inaugurated by famous author & then Minister of Culture, André Malraux, in 1961. There are paintings by Monet, Pissarro, Renoir, Degas, Courbet, Braque, Eugène Boudin, Sisley, Van Dongen, Matisse, Marquet, Dufy, Friesz, Derain. You can also enjoy a tasty meal in the museum restaurant, Les Fauves.

Street Art - Self-Guided Tour
Back in 2017, to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the founding of the city and the Port of Le Havre, there was a festival, Un Été au Havre, that has become an annual event. At the first fest, international artists were invited to create large-scale art installations. Every year since, new works of art have been added, gradually transforming the city into an open-air, contemporary art exhibit.

Stop by an Art Gallery: Galerie Éric Baudet (121 Avenue Foch, https://galerie-ericbaudet.fr) – Modern & contemporary art.

NATURE IN-TOWN: THE BEACH, PARKS & GARDENS
Parks & Gardens: During the rebuilding of Le Havre and the port’s renewal, the inclusion of green spaces was paramount. Hence, there are splendid parks, gardens and woodlands throughout the town. Enjoy a stroll through: Square Saint-Roch, Les Jardins Suspendus (Hanging Gardens); Parc de Rouelles, Parc Forestier de Montgeon, and more. 
Head to the Beach - La Plage

La Plage, Le Havre

All you have to do to get to the beach in Le Havre is hop on a tram (A&B, Last stop: La Plage). Then, stroll along the promenade, get a snack from one of the many seaside eateries, enjoy some water sports or rent a lounge chair (May-Sept) and just relax. But, mind your tootsies, it’s a pebble beach, not sand.

Making Your Trip To Le Havre Easier:
- Le Havre Brochures & Maps (in French & English)
- Bee Le Havre: 1-hour city tour
- Visit Le Havre with a “Greeter” This is a lovely concept: locals share their favorite Le Havre spots with you for free!

Catène de Containers, Vincent Canivet 

Getting Around: Le Harve has a very efficient transport network (LiA) that makes travel easy between the city center and various places of interest. There are 2 tram lines (A/B), 21 bus routes, and a funicular (connects uptown to downtown), plus miles of bike paths (rent a bike, LiA Vélos). And, of course, taxis.
Where to Dine: No shortage of restaurants, brasseries, creperies, etc.
Chez André (9 rue Louis Philippe, www.restauration-chezandre.fr) - For a truly, delicious meal, give this one a try.
Where To Stay: There’s every type of accommodation imaginable.
Hotel Vent d’Ouest (4 Rue de Caligny; https://www.ventdouest.fr/en) - A charming, 4-star boutique hotel & spa with a very-friendly staff in an excellent location.
Getting There: The Normandy region has its own train lines NOMAD; Paris - Gare Saint Lazare, direct to Le Havre (2 hours). 
Nearby Jaunts: Visit other lovely towns along the Côte d'Albâtre. Normandy also has its own bus lines (NOMAD autocar): Ligne 509 connects Le Havre - Etretat - Fécamp. From Fécamp to Dieppe (Ligne 513, then 514).

***

Going Green: The Normandy region encourages “green” travel with some unique offers:
Le Tarif bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Rate) – Get 10% off at various attractions by showing your train or bus ticket, or a photo of your bike! Sejours bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Visits) – Suggestions of places to visit that are easy to get to (& get around) without a car. If you really want to drive, rent an electric car! Explore Normandy Pass – Discounts throughout the region.
Claude Monet - 2026 marks the 100th anniversary of his death; there’ll be lots of special exhibits in Normandy.

10 Great Reasons To Explore 3 Fab Islands Near Cancun, Mexico: Holbox, Isla Mujeres & Cozumel

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Isla Mujeres (photo: Quintana Roo Tourism)

Cancun is a fantastic destination that’s easy to get to from almost anywhere. It’s on the Yucatan Peninsula in the state of Quintana Roo which also includes the magnificent islands of Holbox, Isla Mujeres, and Cozumel—all worth exploring as part of your vacation experience. 

ISLA HOLBOX
On Holbox, there is something magical in the air. Once you arrive, you will absolutely not want to leave. Situated at the northeast corner of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, Holbox is a 26-mile-long island separated from the mainland by the Yalahau lagoon. Holbox (pronounded Hol-bosh) is a Maya word meaning “black hole,” referring to the lagoon’s dark water, which you cross in a 30-minute ferry ride to the island from the tiny town of Chiquilá, 2-hours north of Cancun.

Holbox (photo: JCarnegie)

 Holbox is located in a unique oceanic spot: where the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea converge. So, the surrounding waters are teeming with marine life—turtles, dolphins, whale sharks--in addition to some 500 bird species that nest in the area. Hence, the Island is part of the protected Yum Balam Nature Reserve. Originally a fishing village, the picturesque town on Holbox has colorful, wooden houses, a smattering of little shops, bars, restaurants, a pizza & ice-cream parlor—plus, lots of street art. Isla Holbox is a laid-back place with only sandy, dirt roads and no cars; just golf carts and 4x4 taxis to get around. With friendly locals and magnificent beaches, you’ll soon discover that Holbox is a true paradise on earth.
Unique To Dos
Blue Waves Holbox Tours offers several cool ways to experience the island:
Bioluminescence Tour – This is done at night to see the phytoplankton’s luminescent effect in the ocean around Holbox that looks like fireflies underwater. Wade in the water, swim in it or kayak around to experience this beautiful, natural phenomenon.
Three Islands Tour - Isla Pájaros: See bird species such as white ibis, egrets, pelicans, spoonbills, herons & flamingos. Isla Pasión: Climb up the observation tower on this little, deserted island with a beach awash in seashells. Yalahau parque ecoturistico: Swim in a crystal-clear “cenote.”

Where To Stay: From basic to luxurious, there’s lots of accommodation choices from rustic bungalows to hostels to lovely boutique hotels such as Hotel Villas Caracol - Great beach location, super-friendly staff, nice rooms & pretty pool, plus delicious meals in their Las Hamacas restaurant & beach club.
Getting Around on Holbox: No cars, just golf carts to rent and 4x4 taxis—yellow ones waiting at the ferry.

Holbox town (photo: Quintana Roo Tourism)

Getting There: Holbox is a 2-hour drive north of Cancun, plus a ½ hour ferry ride from Chiquilá to Isla Holbox—worth every minute. From Cancun Airport or downtown Cancun to Chiquilá (87 miles/140 km) there are several options (but I wouldn’t recommend renting a car as none are allowed on Isla Holbox); prices in Mexican $: Shared or Private Shuttle: 
Cancun Airport–Chiquila Port (Holbox ferry); ADO bus: Cancun airport/downtown-Chiquilá, Quintana Roo, Mexico (the cheapest option); then hop on the Ferry: Holbox Express

ISLA MUJERES
Just a 30-minute ferry ride from Cancun, Isla Mujeres is only 5-miles-long and half-a-mile wide, but it’s a vacation wonderland known for beautiful, white-sand beaches and aquamarine water. You can be as active or relaxed as you’d like.
Go snorkeling, scuba-diving, kayaking, or biking around the island. Or, just chill-out at a lovely beach club. Playa Norte is the most famous beach, also known for great sunsets. In ancient times, Isla Mujeres was a sanctuary for the Maya goddess Ixchel. At Punta Sur, you can explore this history and see splendid sunrises. Other activities include: exploring the island by golf-cart, swimming with whale sharks, or boating to the nearby Isla Contoy National Park. For shopping, entertainment, bars and restaurants, stroll along Isla Mujeres’ main drag, Avenida Hidalgo. In the evenings, there’s live music and dancing in the street.
One thing to keep in mind: Isla Mujeres is an extremely popular destination. If possible, consider a visit during off-season, May-October. Otherwise, there are an enormous number of tourists, not only those staying on the island, but also many day-trippers as it’s so close to Cancun.

Punta Sur (photo: JCarnegie)

Unique To Dos
Beach Clubs - Hanging out at a Beach Club is a very popular way to spend the day on Isla Mujeres. Most offer food & drinks, the use of sunbeds, loungers, palapas, hammocks, toilets & showers. Some even have sports activities & swimming pools. Depending on the club, there’s either an all-inclusive entrance fee or free entrance with a food/drink purchase. (Some popular ones: Guru, Zama, Amazona)
Amazing Seafood - Mar-Bella Fish Market Raw Bar & Grill restaurant - From the ocean to your plate. An incredible seafood selection served in a lovely, beachfront location. (The Amazona Beach Club in right next door.)
Punta Sur & Sculpture Park (entrance fee) - Punta Sur is a stunning, cliffside location with incredible views. It’s also the site of Templo Ixchel ruins, thought to have also been a Mayan lighthouse. And, the Punta Sur Sculpture Garden. Mexican and international artists have created sculptures that represent the spirit of Maya civilization. Take a stroll around this beautiful site, also renowned for sunrise-watching.
Swim with Whale Sharks - Whale Sharks congregate near Isla Mujeres (June-Sept), go for a memorable dip with them.
Baby Turtle Release - During the Sea Turtle nesting season in the Mexican Caribbean (May-Nov), there’s a release program (ask where at your hotel as the Tortugranja Turtle Farm is currently closed).

Where To Stay: North end of the island - to be in the middle of the action or South end - a quieter location. There are options for every budget from hostels and Bed & Breakfasts, to boutique hotels, private villas, and deluxe, all-inclusive resorts. For day-trippers, Hotel Riu Caribe in Cancun is a really nice, all-inclusive, near all the ferry ports.
Getting Around on Isla Mujeres: 

Ferry Cancun to Isla Mujeres (photo: JCarnegie)

Rent a golf cart (carrito de golf) bike or motorcycle on Rueda Medina right across the street from the ferry. Taxis at the ferry.
Getting There: From Cancun, it’s a 30-minute ferry trip. There are several ferry ports, easily-reachable by local taxi: Puerto Juárez, El Embarcadero, Playa Tortugas or Playa Caracol. Ferry: Ultramar

ISLA COZUMEL
Cozumel is a terrific vacation destination about a 45-minute ferry ride from Playa del Carmen, an hour south of Cancun. Cozumel is a bit larger than the other islands, some 30-miles-long and 10-miles-wide, with spectacular coral reefs perfect for scuba diving or snorkeling, amazing beaches, water sports, and a history of Maya culture.
On Cozumel, 75% of the land is a federally-protected, natural reserve as are its’ famous arrecifes (reefs), Arrecifes de Cozumel National Park, which are part of the Mesoamerican system, the largest barrier reef in the Western hemisphere. In fact, the famous French explorer Jacques Cousteau declared Cozumel one of the most beautiful scuba-diving areas in the world.

Cozumel Punta Sur (photo: JCarnegie)

 While Cozumel may be a diver’s paradise, there are many other things to do on this beautiful island. It’s a very popular stop on Caribbean cruises. The town of San Miguel has great shopping and dining, and the not-to-be-missed Cozumel Museum has incredible exhibits on the fascinating history, culture, geography, and ecosystems of the island.
Unique To Dos
Pueblo del Maiz (entrance fee) - Experience the ancestral heritage of the Maya culture in this recreated, ancient Mayan village. Learn about the goddess Ixchel, the importance of corn, and the origin of chewing gum. Make authentic tamales and chocolate from cocoa beans. Find out how the Maya respected the natural world, made thread for textiles from plants, and let nothing go to waste.
Punta Sur – Eco Beach Park (entrance fee) - Punta Sur is an ecological park at the southern end of the island; a nature preserve with beautiful beaches. Experience Cozumel’s incredible natural habitat as well as go for a swim & soak up some rays. Take a boat ride on the lagoons through the mangrove marshlands to see crocodiles and birds, then hang out at one of Punta Sur’s snack bar/beach clubs. Before leaving, climb to the top of the lighthouse for great views.
Chankanaab Park (entrance fee) - Located inside Cozumel’s National Reef Marine Park, this adventure park has something for everyone: picturesque grounds with gardens and nature trails; diving and snorkeling tours on the Chankanaab Reef; a sea lion show for the kids and tequila tastings for the adults. There’s a lovely beach area, spa, and restaurants.

Where To Stay: Lots of options from budget to boutique hotels and all-inclusive resorts. Try some place unique such as Ventanas al Mar an eco-friendly, oceanfront hotel on Cozumel’s unspoiled East Coast.
Getting Around on Cozumel: Car Rental – It’s a big island with lots to see. 
Other options: Rent a jeep or bikes, take taxis or just go on a selection of island tours.

Yucatan, Quintana Roo map

Getting There: The 45-minute ferry ride to Cozumel leaves from Playa del Carmen, about an hour south of Cancun. Getting from Cancun to Playa del Carmen: ADO bus: Cancun Airport–Playa del Carmen (Once in Playa, the ferry terminal is just a short walk from the bus station.) Shared or 
Private Shuttle: Cancun Airport–Playa del Carmen; Ferry from Playa del Carmen: Ultramar (blue/yellow boats) or Winjet (orange boats). Onboard the ferries, there’s great live-music that makes the trip fun. Fly: Cozumel has an airport (CZM) with direct flights from many destinations.

KEEP IN MIND: All major airlines fly into Cancun. Quintana Roo is taking steps to protect its cultural and natural heritage. Please use biodegradable sunscreen & bug spray; while swimming in a cenote or diving on the reefs, no sunscreen is allowed at all. Please help keep this natural wonderland as pristine as possible & have a terrific time on the Mexican Caribbean!